^ 


A 


A    TOUR    THROUGH    SOUTH    AMERICA 


I 


m 


.-T' 


CARTAGENA 


A  TOUR  THROUGH 
SOUTH  AMERICA 
::  BY  A.  S.   FORREST 


WITH     145    ILLUSTRATIONS    BY    THE    AUTHOR 


LONDON:    STANLEY    PAUL    &   CO. 
31    ESSEX    STREET,    STRAND,    W.C. 


COPYAODBD 
ORIGINAL  TO  Bi 
RETAINED 


NOV  2     ««  ^,t3-;| 


First  published  in  igjj 


THIS  BOOK   IS   BY  KIND  PERMISSION 
DEDICATED  TO 

SIR   OWEN   PHILIPPS,    K.C.M.G. 

TO  WHOSE  NAME  NO  TRAVELLER  TO  SOUTH  AMERICA 

NEEDS   INTRODUCTION 

THE  AUTHOR   FEELS  THAT  THIS  SLIGHT  TRIBUTE 

IS  DUE  TO  ONE  WHO  HAS  DONE  AND   IS 

STILL  DOING   MUCH  TO  LINK   UP 

THE  OLD   WORLD  WITH   THE   VAST  TERRITORIES 

DEALT   WITH   IN   THE   ENSUING   PAGES 


300832 


CONTENTS 


CHAPTER 

I.  Early  Adventurers  and  Discoveries 

II.  The  Sighting  of  the  Pacific    . 

III.  The  Buccaneers     .... 

IV.  On  the  Way  to  the  Southern  Continent 
V.  Of  the  Labourers  on  the  Isthmus    . 

VI.  Canal  Projects  :  Old  and  New 

VII.  Panama 

VIII.  The  Panamanians  . 

IX.  Colombia  and  Cartagena 

X.  Ecuador 

XI.  "The  City  of  the  Kings" 

XII.  Peru— "The  Country  of  Marvels"    . 

XIII.  "The  Gateway  to  an  Imprisoned  Land" 

XIV.  "The  Land  of  Nitrates" 
XV.  Argentina    . 

XVI.  The  Camp     . 

XVII.  A  Live  Industry    . 

XVIII.  On  the  Road  to  Paraguay 

XIX.  Asuncion 

XX.  A  South  American  Dictator 

XXI.  More  Modern  Times  in  Paraguay 

XXII.  A  Glance  at  Brazilian  History 

XXIII.  "A  City  of  Paradise"      . 

XXIV.  VlANNA  .... 

XXV.  Some  Excursions  from  Rio 

XXVI.  Sao  Paulo     .... 

XXVII.  A  Source  of  Light  and  Power 

XXVIII.  Coffee  .... 

XXIX.  The  Forest  .... 

Index  .... 


PAGE 

17 
26 

34 

48 

60 

72 

97 

104 

117 

127 

131 

138 
149 
157 
167 
180 
197 
208 
226 
240 
244 
249 
263 
278 
286 
299 
319 
327 
338 
351 
9 


LIST   OF    ILLUSTRATIONS 


e   of  the 
the  Isthmus 


Cartagena     .... 

An  Old  Map  of  the  Isthmus    . 

"  Caribs  "  in  Terra  Firma 

Gold  Nose  Ring" 

Ancient  Gold  Nose  Ring 

"A   Dream   in   Living  Bronze   is    She."'— A  nativ 

Darien    .... 
Ancient  Indian  Pottery  found  in  the  Graves  on 
Pottery  from  the  Graves  in  Chirique 
The  Pacific,  from  a   Peak  in  Darien 
Huts  near  the  Ancient  City  of  Panama 
The  Pirate   "L'OIlonois" 
Sir  Henry  Morgan.  — From  an  old  print 
Fort  Lorenzo 

An  Old  Sentry  Tower  on  the  Chagres  River 
The  Old  Church  Tower,  Old  Panama  . 
The  Ramparts,  Fort  Lorenzo  . 
Old  Wharves,  Colon  . 
A  Family  Party,  Colon 
A  Camp  at  Balboa    . 
The  First   Labour  Camp,  Gatum 
The  Old  Church  on  the  Island  of  Tobago,  off  Panama 
A  Labour  Camp  (Evening),  Canal  Zone 
A  Toilet  on  the  Zone 
A  Street  in  the  Old  Quarters,   Panama 
Water-babies  by  a  River-side  . 
An  Old  Church  and  Buildings,   Panama 
A  Stretch  of  the  Chagres  River 
Interior  of  a  Shack  on  the  Isthmus 
The  Old  Panama  Railway  Track 
Jamaican  Labourer  on  the  Zone 
Barbadian  Labourer  on  the  Zone 
Map  of  Republic  of  Panama 
The  Church  at  Chagres 

Outside  a  Church  on  Christmas  Eve,   Panama 
The  Flat  Arch  of  St.   Dominic 
Old  Houses  on  the  Sea  Wall,  Panama. 
Panama  from  Ancon  . 
A  Bit  of  the  Old  Town 
The  Plaza,   Panama  . 
An  Interior,  Cartagena 
In  the  Market,  Panama 
A  Colombian  Mother 
A  Colombian  Village 
On  the  Banks  of  the  Magdalena  River 
Map  of  Peru  and  Bolivia 
A  Dwelling  by  a  River-side,  Ecuador   . 
A  Peruvian  Girl 

lO 


Frontispiece 

PAGE 
16 

21 
21 


Isthmus  of 


2Z 
24 
27 
29 
31 
35 
37 
39 
41 
46 

47 
49 
5» 
53 
56 

58 
61 

65 
69 
70 
73 
77 
79 
81 
84 

85 
89 
92 

98 
100 
102 

105 
108 
no 
112 
116 
118 
122 
124 
126 
129 


List  of  Illustrations 


The  Cathedral,   Lima 

A  Milkmaid,  Lima 

The  Arid  Coast  of  Peru 

A  Llama  in  Gold,  made  by  the  Incas 

Inca  Portraiture  on  a  piece  of  Old  Pottery 

A  Reduced  Human  Head 

An  Inca  Mask  in  Gold 

Pre-Inca  Monoliths  in  Bolivia 

A  Fruit-Stall  at  Mollendo 

The  Jesuit  Church  on  the  Site 

A  Bolivian  Woman     . 

Sailing  on  Lake  Titicaca 

Balsas  on  Lake  Titicaca 

A  Chilian  Farmer 

An  Araucanian  Family 

An  Araucanian  Indian 

Araucanian  Girls 

On  the  Guano  Deposits 

Map  of  Argentine 

The  Lemon-shaped  Dome  of  the  Capital 

Desolation    . 

Landscape  near  Mendoza 

The  Bridge  of  the  Inca 

Crossing  the  Hills 

A  Glimpse  of  Aconcagua 

Travellers  by  a  River-side 

Chasing  Rheas 

A  "  Pulperia" 

Morning :  Going  to  Work 

Evening 

Pegging  out  Hides     . 

An  "  Estancia" 

Gaucho  Preparing  a  Meal 

A  Gaucho     . 

The  Lonely  Camp 

A  Prize   Hereford  Bull 

Colon 

The  Village  of  Frey  Bentos 

On  the  Parana 

Frey  Bentos 

A  Paraguayan  Lady 

Sljepherds  and  Cowboys,  Corrientes 

Igeasu  Falls  on  the  Alto  Parana 

Old  Houses  in  Corrientes 

A  "  Posada,"  Corrientes 

Sharp's  Map  of  South  America 

Travellers  on  the  Steamer 

The  Custom-house,  Asuncion 

The  Dome  of  the  Oratoire  de 

A  Street  in  Asuncion 

Paraguayan  Savages 

Crossing  the  Paraguay 

A  Paraguayan  Gentleman 

Map  of  Brazil 

Beauties  at  Pernambuco 

Near  Rio 


of  the  Inca  "Temple  of  the  Sun 


Lopez 


135 
136 

139 
141 

143 
145 

147 
148 

150 
132 

153 
154 
J  55 
158 
159 
161 
163 

165 
169 
171 
173 
175 
176 

177 
178 
179 
181 
184 
186 
187 
189 
191 
'93 
195 
196 
199 
201 
204 
208 
209 
21 1 

215 
217 
218 
219 
221 
223 
227 
230 
233 
235 
238 

245 
250 

252 

253 

II 


List  of  Illustrations 


Rio 


iver  abou 


The  Railway  up  to  Corcovada 

Coming-  down  from  Corcovada 

The  Church  of  the  CandeHera,  Rio 

The  Falls  of  Tombos  in  the  State  of  R 

Entrance  to  Rio  Harbour 

The  Summit  of  Corcovada, 

"The  Silent  Bay"      . 

A  Suburban  Street,   Rio 

Avenida  Beira-Mar,   Rio 

The  Sug-ar-Loaf  by  Night,   Rio 

A  Bit  of  Rio  Harbour 

The  Gavea,   Rio 

The  Botanical  Gardens 

End  of  Santa  Cruz     . 

An  Old  Church  near  Rio 

The  Shore,  Santa  Cruz 

Santa  Cruz 

Santa  Cruz 

Santa  Cruz 

At  the  Back  of  the  Organ  Mountains 

A  Road  amongst  the  Hills,   Petropolis 

The  Square  of  Tiradentes,  Ouro  Preto 

Near  the  San  Francisco  River 

Above  the  Falls  at  Tombos. — The  Carangola  R 

from  Rio  .... 

Waterfall  near  Matilde,  on  the  Line  to  Victoria  Espirito 
The  Rapids  at  Pirapora,  on  San  Francisco  River 
Old  Houses,  Bahia     . 
The  Baras  de  Aquino. — The  curious w 

Railway 
The    Railway   over   the   Confluence    of 

Rivers    . 
The  Road  to  Sao  Paulo  from  Rio 
The  Approach  to  Santos 
Government  Buildings  in  the  Largo  de 
The  National  Museum  at  Ypiranga 
The  Theatre  of  S.   Paulo 
The  Penteado  Technical  College 
The  Villa  Penteado    . 
Officers  of  the  Sao  Paulo  Army 
A  Waterfall  near  Sao  Paulo    . 
The  W^harves  of  Santos 
The  Docks  of  Santos 
The  Power  Station     . 
The  Falls  of  Parnahyba 
A  Fazenda 
A  Coffee  Fazendiero  . 
Colonists'  Houses  at  Martino  Prado 
The  Prado  Mansion  House,  Sao  Paulo 
Harvey 
Sebastian 


nding  track  of  the  Leopoldina 
the    Paquequr   and    Parahyba 

Palacio 


t  4300 
Santo 


miles 


12 


FOREWORD 

THE  artist  or  the  writer  who  visits  South  America  to-day 
finds  it  as  a  diamond  of  a  hundred  facets,  and  his  main 
difficulty  is  to  select  those  points  upon  which  to  concentrate  his 
gaze.  So  vast  is  the  subject,  so  full  of  romance,  glamour,  pulsating 
life,  and  world  possibilities  that  not  one  book  but  many  must 
be  written  upon  it  before  the  reader  can  form  the  barest  idea  of 
the  well-nigh  illimitable  nature  of  the  theme.  Hence  an  author 
who  offers  any  contribution  to  so  vast  a  study  has  no  need  to 
excuse  himself  for  his  apparent  temerity,  provided  he  sets  on 
record  some  new  point  of  view  or  chronicles  his  impressions  of 
paths  not  too  well  known. 

Even  if  he  fails  in  either  or  both  these  aims  his  work  is  justified 
if  it  contains  individual  conceptions  of  the  myriad  wonders  which 
the  continent  discloses  to  the  seeing  eye.  For  this  far-reaching 
stretch  of  earth  is  the  last  to  be  really  explored  and  civilised  by 
Western  man.  Compared  with  many  portions  of  it,  the  forests  of 
Central  Africa,  the  plateaus  of  Middle  Asia,  and  the  deserts  of 
Australia,  are  as  open  books.  It  is  only  South  America  to-day,  or, 
to  be  more  correct,  a  great  part  of  it  that  is  "  a  field  enclosed,  a 
fountain  sealed." 

Consequently  any  contribution  which  aims  at  familiarising 
stay-at-home  folk  with  the  marvellous  cities,  the  impressive 
scenery,  the  rich  products,  and  the  limitless  resources  of  this 
mighty  territory  has  surely  a  title  to  consideration. 

The  present  writer  claims  to  be  neither  an  explorer  nor  a 
political  theorist,  nor,  although  profoundly  impressed  with  the 
magnificence  of  South  America's  destiny,  has  he  attempted  to 
forecast  the  lines  along  which  that  destiny  will  shape  itself. 

13 


A  Tottr  through  South  America 

His  aim  has  been  far  less  ambitious,  much  more  simple.  What- 
ever he  saw  in  the  country  or  amongst  the  people  that  interested 
him  he  has  endeavoured  to  transcribe  with  interest  for  the  benefit 
of  others.  Even  so  he  submits  that  the  ensuing  pages  will  give 
the  general  reader  a  fair  conspectus  of  the  rise  and  development 
of  South  America  from  those  far-off  days  when  it  was  discovered, 
subjugated,  and  colonised  by  Spanish  and  Portuguese  conquista- 
dores  to  the  present  day,  where  a  dozen  independent  Republics 
have  their  seats  of  government  in  cities  where  once  the  flags  of 
the  conquerors  waved. 

The  history  of  each  State  has  been  lightly  touched  upon  and 
space  has  been  devoted  to  a  consideration  of  the  men  of  light  and 
leading  who  have  helped  to  direct  the  fortunes  of  the  continent 
from  the  earliest  beginnings  of  its  modern  history.  The  romantic 
adventures  of  Pizarro  are  told  in  one  chapter ;  in  another  the 
exploits  of  the  sinister  Dr.  Francia  of  Paraguay  are  recorded  ;  and 
the  reader  will  not  set  down  the  book  until  he  has  learned  what 
General  O'Higgins  and  Lord  Cochrane  did  for  the  independence 
of  Chih,  and  how  San  Martin,  the  Galahad  of  South  America,  laid 
as  thoi^gh  on  a  rock  the  foundations  of  that  thriving  State  now 
known  as  the  Argentine  RepubUc.  Moreover,  the  part  played  by 
Simon  Bolivar  in  liberating  the  northern  half  of  the  continent 
from  the  Spanish  yoke  is,  the  writer  trusts,  set  forth  with  a  due 
sense  of  proportion. 

Mighty  men  these,  and  more  or  less  so  because  their  dramas 
were  enacted  on  a  remote  stage  of  the  world-theatre. 

But,  like  the  age  of  chivalry,  the  days  of  romance  have  passed 
and  the  author  has  deemed  it  a  necessary  part  of  his  scheme  to 
deal  with  more  prosaic  matters,  things  which  impress  the  work-a- 
day  world  quite  as  much  as  the  sanguinary  progresses  of  Spanish 
conquerors  and  the  marvellous  civilisation  of  the  Peruvian  Incas. 
Something  will  be  found  in  the  book  concerning  many  of  the 
resources  of  the  country. 

The  imminent   opening  to  universal  traffic  of  the  Panama 


Foreword 

Canal  arrests  the  attention  of  the  entire  civiHsed  world.  It 
has  been  the  lot  of  the  author  to  spend  a  longer  time  on  the 
Zone  than  is  generally  done  by  persons  not  connected  with  the 
undertaking.  Consequently  he  has  had  abundant  opportunities 
of  studying,  at  first  hand,  not  only  its  constructive  arts  but  also 
the  character  of  the  people  living  on  the  isthmus. 

His  impressions  are  embodied  in  the  early  chapters  of  the 
volume. 

The  completion  of  this  great  waterway  will  make  much  of  this 
enchanted  land  as  easy  of  access  to  us  moderns  as  it  was  difficult 
to  those  old  Spanish  mariners  who  dreamed  that  they  were 
voyaging  to  an  actual  El  Dorado  or  to  the  fabled  land  of  Ophir. 


15 


f^m 


A   TOUR   THROUGH 
SOUTH     AMERICA 


CHAPTER   I 

Early  Adventurers  and  Discoveries 

THE  history  of  the  Isthmus  of  Panama,  which  was  the  point 
of  departure  for  the  wholeof  those  notable  conquests  which 
placed  nearly  all  South  America  under  the  heel  of  Spain,  began 
with  its  discovery  by  Alonzo  de  Ojeda  in  1499. 

The  great  name  of  Columbus  figures  prominently  in  this  period, 
for  in  the  course  of  his  fourth  voyage  he  spent  much  time  in  sailing 
backwards  and  forwards  from  east  to  west  along  the  coast  of  Terra 
Firma  in  a  vain  search  for  a  passage  through  which  his  ships  might 
pass  to  the  land  of  the  Grand  Khan. 

But  it  was  not  ordained  that  the  great  navigator  should  add 
this  laurel  to  his  crown,  albeit  his  enterprise  made  the  way  easier 
for  those  who  were  to  follow. 

Baffled  by  contrary  winds  and  other  adverse  factors  he  had 
eventually  to  retire  from  what  in  his  chagrin  he  termed  "the 
Coast  of  Contradictions"  and  return  to  Spain,  never  to  sail  from 
its  ports  again. 

The  reports  of  Columbus  as  to  the  plentifulness  of  gold  in  the 
region  of  the  isthmus  sent  many  other  adventurous  mariners 
and  captains  to  the  Spanish  Main,  and  soon  the  history  of 
the  time  resolved   itself   into   intrigues,   jealousies,  and  savage 

B 


A .  Tour  through  'Satii3i  America 

conflicts  ,t)etwQe&cA'et  -In^jans  and  the  intruders,  the  latter 
enduring  all  kinds  of  privations  in  the  hope  of  reaching  that 
rumoured  land  which  overflowed  with  gold.  Dramatic  develop- 
ments began  to  ensue  under  an  expedition  which  set  out  from 
Hispaniola  under  the  leadership  of  Enciso,  a  wealthy  notary. 
On  board  the  ship  in  which  he  embarked  was  a  mysterious  barrel 
sent  from  a  farm  situated  on  the  seashore,  and  no  sooner  was  the 
vessel  well  out  to  sea  than  there  emerged  from  this  cask  a  tall 
muscular  man  in  the  prime  of  life.  Vasco  Nunez  de  Balboa, 
who  had  devised  this  means  of  escaping  from  his  creditors, 
proved  in  the  end  to  be  a  valuable  addition  to  the  expedition, 
though  the  commander's  first  impulse  and  threat  was  to  maroon 
the  stowaway  on  the  first  uninhabited  island  they  might  come 
across.  They  landed  at  Cartagena  and  were  menaced  by  the 
natives,  who  hovered  around  them,  doubtless  remembering 
previous  invasions  and  the  outrages  they  had  suffered.  By 
pacific  measures,  however,  the  newcomers  conciliated  the 
Indians,  at  whose  hands  they  then  received  valuable  assistance 
and  supplies  of  such  provisions  as  the  country  had  to  offer.  Balboa 
soon  assumed  a  prominence  in  the  discussions  and  deliberations  of 
the  expedition.  He  recommended  strongly  the  attractions  of 
an  Indian  village  which  he  had  come  across  when  sailing  some 
years  before  with  Bastides.  It  lay  upon  the  banks  of  a  river 
called  Darien,  and  the  country  all  around  was  not  only  fertile, 
but  abounded  in  gold,  whilst  the  natives,  although  warlike, 
never  made  use  of  the  dreaded  poisoned  arrow.  With  such  en- 
thusiasm did  Balboa  urge  the  claims  of  this  region  that  Enciso 
determined  to  follow  his  advice,  and  they  set  sail  thither  and 
arrived  and  founded  the  town  or  city  of  Santa  Maria  de  la  Antigua 
del  Darien.  The  natives  of  the  existing  village  they  put  to  the 
sword,  having  robbed  them  of  all  the  golden  ornaments  they  wore 
and  the  food  supplies  collected  in  their  huts. 

Enciso  immediately  entered  upon  his  duties  as  alcalde  and 
lieutenant  of  the  absent  Governor  Ojeda,  but  discontent  soon  broke 
out  amongst  the  men,  who,  hoping  for  rich  gains,  had  begun  to 
get  alarmed  at  the  attitude  Enciso  took  with  regard  to  the  golden 
treasure  they  had  captured.  Balboa's  chance  had  now  come,  and, 
taking  advantage  of  this  discontent,  he  sought  to  gather  around  him 
a  faction  strong  enough  to  dethrone  Enciso  from  his  position  of 
command,  recollecting  doubtless  the  latter's  threat  to  maroon 
i8 


Early  Adventurers  and  Discoveries 


him  and  availing  himself  of  this  opportunity  for  revenge.  The 
legal  aspect  of  the  case  aided  in  upsetting  the  pretensions  of 
Enciso  to  rule  on  a  territory  which  lay  on  the  west  side  of  the 
Gulf  of  Darien,  for  by  the  royal  command  it  was  clearly  under  the 
jurisdiction  of  Nicuesa,  a  rival  adventurer. 

The  deposition  of  Enciso  was  accomplished,  and  Balboa  and  one 
Tzemudio  were  appointed  alcaldes  by  the  colony  with  a  cavaher 
named  Valdivia  as  Regidor.  This  arrangement,  however,  was  not 
satisfactory,  the  general  opinion  being  that  the  sole  authority 
should  be  vested  in 
one  individual,  and 
it  was  while  the  dis- 
pute concerning  this 
matter  was  going 
on  that  two  ships 
arrived  commanded 
by  Colmenares  who, 
with  provisions,  was 
in  search  of  Nicuesa. 
This  man  claimed 
that  Nicuesa  was 
the  legitimate  gov- 
ernor of  the  pro- 
vince, and  that,  in 
his  absence,  he,  Col- 
menares, was  the 
proper  person  to 
command.     Balboa 

could  hardly  controvert  this,  and  his  authority  having  been 
acknowledged,  Colmenares  set  out  along  the  coast  in  pursuance 
of  his  search  for  the  missing  governor,  whom  he  found  at  Nombre 
de  Dios. 

There  ensued  a  long  duel  between  Balboa  and  Nicuesa  for  the 
supreme  authority,  and  eventually  the  former  won,  Nicuesa  being 
placed  on  a  wretched  vessel  and  driven  out  to  sea,  nothing  further 
ever  being  heard  of  him  or  his  crew. 

The  rival  claims  of  Enciso  and  Balboa  for  the  vacant  governor- 
ship of  the  community  led  to  its  division  into  two  factions,  and 
the  high  favour  in  which  Balboa  was  held  by  the  majority  was 
such  that,  unable  with  all  his  eloquence  to  prevail  against  him. 

19 


CARIBS"   IN   TERRA   FIRMA. 


A  Tottr  through  South  America 

the  erudite  and  skilful  Enciso  was  put  into  prison  and  his  property 
confiscated,  after  a  trial  which  had  but  the  merest  semblance  of 
legality,  on  a  charge  of  having  usurped  the  office  of  alcalde  in  a 
territory  which  did  not  come  under  his  jurisdiction. 

When  at  length,  through  the  intercession  of  his  friends,  he 
regained  his  liberty  he  received  permission  to  return  to  Spain. 
Balboa  took  the  precaution  of  sending  in  the  same  vessel  one  of 
his  most  intimate  followers,  to  prevent  the  deposed  Enciso  from 
gaining  too  much  sympathy  at  court,  and  to  answer  the  charges 
which  would  doubtless  be  preferred  by  him.  Further,  Balboa 
sent  a  handsome  present  in  gold  to  the  royal  treasurer  of  Hispaniola 
to  impress  him  with  the  richness  of  the  new  country 'and  obtain 
what  he  knew  to  be  a  pow^erful  influence  with  the  King. 

After  the  departure  of  the  caravel  with  his  predecessor  on 
board,  Balboa  set  about  organising  an  expedition  into  the  interior, 
to  discover  and  obtain  as  much  of  the  precious  metal  as  he  could, 
for  he  wisely  foresaw^  that  if  he  provided  the  royal  treasury  at  home 
with  an  abundance  of  the  much-coveted  gold,  any  irregularities  in 
his  late  proceedings  would  be  overlooked  by  the  avaricious 
Ferdinand. 

He  sent  Pizarro  and  a  band  on  one  such  errand  into  a  province 
called  Coyba,  but  on  their  setting  out  they  w^ere  assailed  by  the 
Indians  of  Darien  led  by  their  native  lord  or  cacique,  Zemaco, 
and  after  a  fierce  encounter  the  Spaniards  were  forced  to  retreat. 
Balboa  despatched  two  vessels  to  Nombre  de  Dios  to  bring  away 
the  remnant  of  Nicuesa's  followers  who  had  been  left  there.  While 
coasting  the  shores  of  the  isthmus  these  vessels  picked  up  two 
Spaniards,  painted  like  the  Indians  with  whom  they  had  been 
living.  These  men  had  been  well  treated  by  Careta  the  cacique  of 
Coyba  and  repaid  his  kindness  by  instigating  their  countrymen  to 
attack  this  friendly  native  and  rob  him  of  his  wealth  and  treasure. 
They  carried  back  to  Balboa  the  news  of  their  discovery  at  Careta, 
and  he,  pleased  wdth  the  intelligence,  set  out  with  a  strongly  armed 
force  to  carry  out  this  base  design.  On  his  arrival  the  unsuspecting 
chief  received  him  with  all  the  hospitality  his  savage  customs 
could  supply,  but  even  this  was  not  sufficient  to  deter  Balboa  from 
using  strategy  to  overcome  resistance  and  plunder  the  village, 
making  captives  of  Careta,  his  wives  and  children  and  many  of  his 
people,  and  taking  them  back  as  prisoners  to  Santa  Maria. 

The  poor  outraged  chieftain  pleaded  with  his  captor  to  be  released, 

20 


Early  Advenhirers  and  Discoveries 


GOLD   NOSE   RING. 


offering  to  become  his  ally  and  show  him  the  realms  where  gold 
and  riches  abounded,  and  as  a  pledge  of  his  good  faith  to  give  his 
daughter  as  a  wdfe  to  the  Spanish  Governor,  who,  seeing  all  the 
advantages  that  would  accrue  from  the  friendship  of  the  natives, 
and  not  unmoved  by  the  youth  and  beauty  of  the  proffered  wife, 
accepted  the  alhance.  After  impressing 
his  new  allies  with  the  power  of  the 
Spanish  armaments,  and  astonishing  them 
with  the  sight  of  the  war  horses  which 
were  strange  to  them,  he  allowed  them 
to  depart  loaded  with  presents,  but  leav- 
ing the  chief's  daughter,  who  willingly 
remained  as  the  so-called  wife  of  the 
future  discoverer  of  the  Pacific. 

Balboa,  with  eighty  men,  once  more 
made  his  way  to  Coyba  and  assisted 
Careta  in  invading  the  territories  of  one 
of  his  enemies,  who  were  compelled  to 
retreat  and  take  shelter  in  the  mountain  fastnesses.  Con- 
tinuing their  invasion,  the  combined  forces  ravaged  the 
lands,  sacked  villages,  putting  the  inhabitants  to  the  sword 
and  securing  much  booty.  They  then  visited  the  province  of 
another  cacique,  Comagre  by  name,  who  was  indeed  one  of  the 
most  formidable  in  the  whole 
country,  having  at  his  command 
three  thousand  lighting  men,  and 
living  in  what  was  for  these  parts 
a  very  palace,  built  of  stone  and 
wood  and  containing  many 
apartments.  There  was  in  this 
palace  a  great  hall  in  which  the 
chieftain  preserved  the  bodies  of 
his  ancestors,  dried  by  fire  and 
wrapped  in  mantles  of  cotton  richly  wrought  and  interwoven  with 
pearls  and  jewels  of  gold.  Among  the  sons  of  this  cacique  was  one 
who  was  of  a  lofty  and  generous  spirit  and  superior  sagacity.  He 
it  was  who  struck  the  scales  and  scattered  the  gold  which  the 
Spaniards  were  weighing  out  and  quarrelhng  over.  Disdainful  and 
disgusted  at  their  sordid  spirit,  he  asked  them  why  they  quarrelled 
over  such  a  trifle,  and  said  that,  frOm  the  lofty  hills  in  front  of  them, 

21 


ANCIENT   GOLD    NOSE    RING. 


A  Tour  through  South  America 

he  would  show  them  a  mighty  sea  navigated  by  people  who  had 
vessels  almost  as  large  as  their  own,  adding  that  on  the  shores  of 
this  great  sea  dwelt  kings  who  ate  and  drank  out  of  golden  vessels, 
and  ruled  over  lands  in  which  gold  was  as  plentiful  as  iron  was 
amongst  the  Spaniards. 

Imagine  the  eagerness  with  which  Balboa  plied  this  youthful 
Indian  with  questions  regarding  the  means  of  arriving  at  such 
opulent  regions,  and  how  his  imagination  must  have  been  stirred 
at  the  intimation  of  the  sea  he  was  shortly  to  discover. 

The  difficulties  to  be  overcome,  the  fierce  resistance  which  he 
was  assured  would  be  offered  to  his  advance  through  the  country 
he  must  traverse,  only  stimulated  his  ambition  to  be  the  first  to 
sail  upon  the  unknown  sea.  Henceforward  all  his  plans  were  laid 
with  the  one  idea  of  reaching  it,  and  he  sent  off  envoys  in  great 
haste  to  Hispaniola  laden  with  much  of  the  treasure  he  had 
already  obtained,  hoping  thus  to  arouse  the  interest  of  his  King  to 
such  a  pitch  that  he  should  be  furnished  with  a  sufficient  force  of 
arms  and  men  to  enable  him  to  accomplish  a  mighty  discovery. 
As  some  time  would  elapse  before  an  answer  to  his  request  could 
reach  him,  Balboa  with  his  followers  made  incursions  into  the 
country  round  their  settlement,  exploring  the  river  and  its 
tributaries,  but  always  meeting  with  a  steady  opposition  from 
the  natives. 

Of  the  hundreds  of  adventures  they  must  here  have  met 
with  history  records  but  few,  and  although  they  discovered 
much  booty  and  captured  many  slaves,  they  also  lost  much  in 
their  endeavours  to  transport  it  to  their  capital. 
-  Many  of  the  natives  lived  in  huts  built  like  nests  in  the  branches 
of  the  trees  and  reached  by  ladders,  which  the  inmates  drew  up  at 
night  or  when  suddenly  attacked.  These  arboreal  homes,  built  of 
light  woodwork  and  thatched  with  leaves,  were  many  of  them 
large  enough  to  hold  good-sized  families,  and  when  other  means 
of  overcoming  these  nest-dwellers  failed,  the  Spaniards  would 
compel  them  to  descend  by  threatening  to  fell  the  trees  or  set 
fire  to  them.  And  this  all  for  gold.  Gold  was  the  object  of  their 
search,  and  no  cruelty  was  too  great  for  them  to  inflict  on  any 
who  kept  them  from  their  booty.  One  golden  temple,  whose 
renown  had  reached  them,  was  for  many  years  to  come  the  object 
of  a  restless  enterprise  on  the  part  of  the  Spaniards.  Hundreds  of 
lives  were  lost  in  search  of  it,  but  never  was  its  whereabouts 

22 


Early  Adventurers  and  Discoveries 

discovered,  clans  and  tribes  joining  in  confederacy  to  resist  the 
advances  of  their  enemies. 

Balboa  at  last  constructed  a  fortress  round  the  town  to  resist 
the  attacks  of  and  guard  against  surprise  by  his  wily  enemies. 


"a  dream  in  living  bronze  is  she." 
A  native  of  the  Isthmus  of  Darien. 


Weary  of  waiting  for  the  reinforcements  he  had  sent  for,  his 
followers  grew  impatient,  and  anxious  and  distressed  at  the 
non-arrival   of   help,    he   determined   to  go  in   person   back   to 

23 


A  Tour  through  South  America 


Spain  and  urge  his  claims  for  assistance  to  accomplish  what 
he  now  looked  upon  as  his  mission.  His  followers,  however, 
dissuaded  him  from  leaving  them  in  what  was  still  a  dangerous 
position,  for  they  relied  upon  their  leader  to  counsel  and  protect 
them.  Other  envoys  were  found  and  despatched  with  letters  full 
of  enthusiastic  accounts  of  the  wealth  of  the  country,  a  portion  of 
the  gold  obtained  being  also  sent,  each  man  giving  some  of  his 
private  hoard  to  swell  the  general  amount.  Surely  the  King  on 
receiving  this  evidence  of  the  wealth  and  resources  of  his  new 

possessions  would  not  fail  to 
furnish  means  of  extending 
and  developing  them. 

It  was  while  awaiting  the 
issue  of  this  second  mission 
that  the  weary  and  discon- 
tented colony  of  adventurers 
grew  troublesome,  and  it  re- 
quired all  the  resourceful  in- 
genuity and  sagacity  of  Balboa 
to  prevent  civil  war  from 
breaking  out.  Order  had 
hardly  been  re-established 
when  two  ships  arrived  from 
Hispaniola  with  supplies  and 
men  and  a  commission  for 
Balboa,  which  although  not 
from  the  source  of  royal  power 
itself  at  least  gave  a  semblance  of  legal  status  to  his  governorship, 
coming  as  it  did  from  the  hands  of  the  King's  treasurer,  Miguel  de 
Pasamonte,  to  whom  the  present  sent  had  proved  acceptable. 

These  were  the  events  which  led  up  to  the  great  discovery,  and 
Balboa  was  just  congratulating  himself  on  the  security  of  his 
position  and  the  hopefulness  of  his  prospects  when  he  received 
news  from  the  colleague  he  had  sent  home  that  Enciso  had  suc- 
ceeded in  arousing  the  King's  resentment  and  indignation  against 
Balboa,  who  was  shortly  to  be  summoned  back  to  Spain  to  answer 
most  serious  charges  on  account  of  his  harsh  treatment  of  Nicuesa. 
The  only  comfort  left  to  Balboa  was  the  fact  that  the  information 
he  now  received  was  private  and  that  no  definite  order  had  yet 
reached  him  from  the  King.    Desperate  as  he  felt  the  enterprise 

24 


ANCIENT   INDIAN    POTTERY    FOUND    IN 
THE   GRAVES   ON    THE    ISIHMUS. 


Early  Advenhirers  and  Discoveries 

to  be  without  reinforcements,  he  yet  determined  to  risk  all  upon  the 
venture  of  crossing  the  isthmus  before  the  King's  commands 
could  reach  him.  Choosing  one  hundred  and  ninety  of  the  most 
reckless  and  daring  of  the  wild  adventurers  that  composed  his 
colony,  and  arming  them  in  such  a  manner  as  he  thought  fitting 
for  the  occasion,  taking  with  him  several  of  the  Darien  Indians 
whom  he  won  to  his  side  by  kindness,  and  a  number  of  dogs, 
amongst  them  his  famous  hound  Leonico,  he  set  out  on  this 
perilous  undertaking. 


25 


CHAPTER   II 

The  Sighting  of  the  Pacific 

WITH  his  wild  crew  Balboa  sailed  from  Santa  Maria  up 
the  coast  to  Coyba,  where  he  left  half  his  men  to  guard 
the  brigantine  and  canoes,  and  started  out,  after  offering  up 
fervent  prayers  to  God  to  grant  him  success  in  his  mission. 
Through  a  country  which  might  have  caused  dismay  to  the 
boldest  of  adventurers,  struggling  through  pathless  bush  which 
seemed  almost  impenetrable,  over  steep  rocks  with  the  sun  blazing 
down  upon  them,  encumbered  with  their  heavy  armour,  and 
with  supplies  for  only  two  days,  they  pushed  their  wa}^  until 
they  reached  a  forsaken  Indian  village,  where  almost  overcome 
by  their  exertions  they  were  compelled  to  rest  for  a  time.  Many 
of  the  band  had  fallen  sick,  and  after  recovering  somewhat, 
were  compelled  to  return  to  the  boats.  Fresh  guides  had  to  be 
procured  who  knew  the  country  through  which  they  were  now 
to  pass,  and  on  the  twentieth  of  September,  15 13,  they  started 
off  again  through  a  country  covered  with  a  dense  growth  of  forest, 
streams  and  water-courses  often  barring  their  path. 

So  slow  was  their  progress  that  it  took  four  days  to  go 
ten  leagues.  Hunger  and  thirst  consumed  them,  but  they  kept 
on,  until  they  arrived  in  the  province  of  a  warhke  cacique  who 
contested  their  progress.  But  when  the  Indians  found  their 
companions  falHng  around  them,  shot  down  by  the  fire-arms  of 
the  invaders,  they  were  terrified.  Guns  were  new  to  them  ;  in 
their  ignorance  they  looked  upon  them  as  strange  demons  who 
threw  out  fire  and  thunder,  and  when  the  dogs  were  loosened 
on  them  they  turned  and  fled.  Many  were  overtaken  and  torn 
to  pieces  by  the  half-famished  hounds,  others  were  cut  down 
by  the  sword,  till  over  six  hundred  lay  dead  upon  the  field. 

The  conquerors  marched  into  the  village  and  gathered  their 
spoil,  gold  and  jewels,  rested  themselves  from  fatigue  and  tended 

26 


The  Sight mg  of  the  Pacific 


their  wounded.  The  village  lay  at  the  foot  of  a  high  mountain, 
and  on  the  following  morning,  conducted  by  guides  selected  from 
among  the  prisoners,  Balboa  leaving  his  wounded  behind  him, 
started  the  ascent,  with  his  remaining  followers.  When  they  had 
nearly  reached  the  summit  theleader 
gave  orders  to  his  men  to  halt,  and 
forbade  any  man  to  stir.  Then  all 
alone  he  chmbed  and  reached  the 
topmost  peak,  from  whence  he  was 
able  to  discern  the  ocean  he  had 
passed  through  such  trials  to  behold. 
Often  during  the  long  and  tedious 
journey  doubts  must  have  passed 
through  his  mind  regarding  the 
existence  of  the  sea  now  lying  in 
front  of  him,  but  all  the  strange 
tales  and  rumours  which  for  years 
had  been  whispered  amongst  mari- 
ners were,  after  all,  true,  and  he 
was  the  first  European  to  know  it ! 
This  bold  adventurer,  accustomed 
to  bloodshed  and  wild  disaster, 
knelt  down  and  gave  thanks  to 
God  for  having  privileged  him  to 
make  this  great  discovery.  Then, 
calling  his  men  to  ascend  and  share 
his  vision,  he  addressed  them. 
"  Behold,  my  friends,  that  glorious 
sight  which  we  have  so  much  de- 
sired. Let  us  give  thanks  to  God 
that  He  has  granted  us  this  great 
honour  and  advantage.  Let  us 
pray  to  Him  to  guide  us  and  aid  us  to  conquer  the  sea  and  land 
which  we  have  discovered,  and  which  Christian  has  never  entered 
to  preach  the  holy  doctrine  of  the  evangelists.  As  to  yourselves, 
be,  as  you  have  hitherto  been,  faithful  and  true  to  me,  and,  by 
the  favour  of  Christ,  you  will  become  the  richest  Spaniards 
that  have  ever  come  to  the  Indies.  You  will  render  the  greatest 
services  to  your  King  that  ever  vassal  rendered  to  his  lord, 
and  you  will  have  the  eternal  glory  and  advantage  of  all  that 

27 


POTTERY    FROM    THE    GRAVES 
IN    CHIRIQUE. 


A  Tour  through  South  America 

is  here  discovered,  conquered,  and  converted  to  our  Holy 
Catholic  Faith." 

This  perfervid  utterance,  the  incongruity  of  which  strikes  us 
to-day  as  almost  blasphemous,  aroused  enthusiasm  in  his  followers, 
who  swore  to  stand  by  their  intrepid  leader  and  follow  him  to  the 
death  in  pursuit  of  their  new  prospects.  They  all  knelt  down,  and 
led  by  de  Vara  the  priest,  w^ho  accompanied  them,  lustily  chanted 
the  "  Te  Dciim."  Speculation  ran  high  as  to  the  possibihties  that 
lay  before  them,  but  they  were  all  convinced  that  they  were 
at  length  on  the  right  road  to  become  possessors  of  the  riches 
of  the  Indies.  Summoning  the  notary  of  the  expedition,  Balboa 
called  all  present  to  \Vitness  that  he  took  possession  of  all  the 
sea,  its  islands  and  surrounding  hills,  in  the  name  of  the  Sovereigns 
of  Castile,  and  had  a  deed  prepared  to  that  effect,  which 
those  of  his  followers  who  were  present  signed.  The  curious 
ceremonies  of  piety  and  plunder  were  not  completed  until  a 
tree  had  been  cut  down,  formed  into  a  cross,  and  erected  on 
the  spot  from  which  Balboa  had  first  viewed  the  ocean,  the 
names  of  Ferdinand  and  Isabella  being  roughly  carved  on  the 
trees  surrounding  the  spot.  The  band  then  made  their  way 
down  the  hillside,  and  after  massacring  another  tribe  of  hostile 
Indians,  and  forcing  into  their  service  fresh  guides,  they  came 
to  the  domain  of  the  warlike  cacique,  named  Choapes,  who, 
after  a  short  resistance,  was  induced  b}^  the  arguments  of  fire- 
arms and  bloodhounds  to  submit.  It  is  recorded  that  Balboa, 
doubtless  softened  by  his  rehgious  exercises  on  the  mountain, 
enjoined  his  followers  to  refrain  from  needless  slaughter. 

Meanwhile,  Balboa  sent  out  scouting  parties  to  discover  the 
best  route  to  the  coast,  and  when  the  successful  one  returned, 
they  related  how  they  had  reached  the  ocean  and  found  canoes, 
into  one  of  which  Alonzo  Martin  had  stepped,  caUing  on  his  com- 
panions to  bear  witness  that  he  was  the  first  European  to  embark 
on  the  newly  discovered  sea. 

Balboa  and  his  men  went  forward,  and  on  coming  to  the  border 
of  a  great  baj^  gave  it  the  name  of  San  Miguel.  As  the  tide  was 
far  out,  they  waited  under  the  shade  of  the  trees  until  it  should 
flow  in.  When  it  did  Balboa  arose,  and,  taking  a  banner  on  which 
were  painted  the  arms  of  Castile  and  Leon,  he,  with  his  sword 
drawn,  waded  into  the  water  until  it  was  above  his  knees,  and  in 
a  loud  voice  took  possession,  in  the  names  of  Don  Ferdinand 
28 


The  Sighting  of  the  Pacific 

and  Donna  Isabella,  of  all  the  seas  and  lands  and  coasts  and  ports 
and  islands  of  the  South,  kingdoms  and  provinces,  and,  in  fact, 
everything  he  could  think  of  naming. 

The  exaggerated  accounts  which  reached  Spain  of  the  wealth 
and  riches  of  the  new  colony,  of  the  gold  which  was  to  be  found 
lying  on  the  surface  of  the  ground   or  taken  from  the  rivers  in 


THE    PACIFIC,    FROM    A    PEAK    IN    DARIEN. 


nets,  inspired  Ferdinand  with  such  enthusiastic  pride  in  his 
new  possessions  that  he  christened  them  "  Golden  Castile."  Santa 
Maria  was  honoured  by  being  made  the  capital  city,  and  a  bishop 
was  appointed  and  sent  out  with  all  the  necessary  equipment  of 
friars  and  other  ecclesiastical  paraphernalia. 

A  new^  Governor  w^as  sent  out  in  the  person  of  Don  Pedrarias 
DaviUa,  with  a  magnificently  furnished  expedition  to  fittingly 
equip  the  new  capital  with  all  the  pomp  and  pageantry  so  dear 
to  the  Spanish  heart.  Many  youthful  caballeros  of  high  descent 
but  low  in  funds  were  allured  by  the  prospects  of  the  new  land, 

29 


A  Tour  through  South  America 

and  flocked  to  join  the  expedition  in  such  numbers  that  only 
the  most  favoured  and  influential  could  obtain  a  passage. 

Hardly  had  this  magnificent  fleet  set  sail  when  news  arrived 
of  Balboa's  latest  discovery,  and  the  revulsion  of  feehng  in  his 
favour  would  have  prevented  the  King  giving  such  high  powers 
to  Pedr arias  had  the  tidings  only  reached  him  in  time.  On  the 
arrival  of  the  new  Governor  at  Santa  Maria  he  was  met  by  Balboa, 
who  had  returned  from  the  Pacific  shores,  with  every  courtesy, 
and  entertained  in  the  palm-thatched  habitation  which  served 
the  latter  as  a  palace. 

Pedrarias  contrived  to  hide  behind  a  mask  of  friendship  his 
real  intentions  regarding  the  new  province,  and  through  dis- 
simulation gained  as  complete  a  knowledge  as  possible  of  all 
things  pertaining  to  the  country  and  the  discoveries  of  Balboa, 
who,  oft"  his  guard,  was  anxious  enough  to  put  the  new  Governor 
in  possession  of  all  the  information  he  had  gathered.  But  no 
sooner  did  Pedrarias  feel  that  he  had  no  more  to  learn  from  the 
pioneer  of  the  Isthmian  route  than  his  attitude  completely  changed, 
and  he  ordered  a  judicial  inquiry  into  the  previous  conduct  of 
Balboa.  The  result  of  the  trial  was  the  acquittal  of  the  accused, 
much  to  the  chagrin  of  the  new  Governor,  who  from  the  first 
seems  to  have  been  determined  to  get  rid  at  all  costs  of  the  man 
who,  he  felt,  overshadowed  and  threatened  his  prospects  in 
the  colony. 

Later  news  which  came  from  the  court  of  Spain,  announced 
Balboa's  promotion  to  be  Governor  of  the  South  Seas  and  the 
Province  of  Panama,  and  Pedrarias,  fearful  lest  Balboa's  influence 
and  popularity  should  again  place  him  in  the  ascendancy,  and  in 
order  to  keep  a  hold  over  him  and  join  their  interests,  proposed 
an  alliance  between  his  daughter  and  the  Adelantado;  the 
marriage  settlements  were  drawn  up,  but  before  the  young 
lady  could  arrive  from  Spain  events  happened  which  prevented 
the  union. 

The  interest  of  Balboa  having  been  secured  to  him,  Pedrarias 
was  now  wilHng  and  anxious  that  further  discoveries  should  be 
added  to  the  already  formidable  list,  and  that  more  treasure 
should  flow  into  the  insatiable  cofters  of  Spain,  and  to  this 
end  he  permitted  and  assisted  Balboa  to  fit  out  a  new  expedition 
to  make  further  discoveries  in  the  South  Seas. 

Ada,  established  and  built  by  Balboa  as  a  settlement  near  Careta, 

30 


The  Sighting  of  the  Pacific 

was  now  fixed  upon  as  the  port  best  adapted  as  a  starting- 
point  for  this  expedition,  one  of  the  boldest  and  most  con- 
siderable yet  attempted  by  the  Spaniards  in  Terra  Firma. 
The  plan  was  to  carry  from  this  port  all  necessary  materials 
for  the  building   of    four    brigantines   upon  the   Pacific  shore. 


HUTS   NEAR  THE   ANCIENT   CITY  OF   PANAMA. 

The  transporting  of  stores  and  materials  over  a  country 
which,  when  traversed  previously  by  Balboa,  unencumbered 
with  superfluous  baggage,  had  presented  serious  enough  diffi- 
culties, was  a  task  of  almost  overwhelming  magnitude ;  yet 
these  hardy  Spaniards  under  the  leadership  of  the  intrepid  Balboa 
accomphshed  it.  They  were  assisted  by  the  more  friendly  Indians 
and  negroes,  but  many  lives  were  lost  ere  the  first  two  brigantines 

31 


A  Tottr  through  South  America 

were  successfully  launched  on  the  River  Balsas,  which  flows  into 
the  Pacific. 

Their  first  cruise  was  to  the  Pearl  Islands,  and  but  for  contrary 
winds,  the  discovery  of  Peru  might  have  been  added  to  the  list 
of  Balboa's  achievements,  but  he  was  anxious  to  complete  the 
building  of  the  other  two  brigantines  which  he  had  provided 
material  for,  and  returned  to  proceed  with  the  work.  Whilst 
busy  upon  it,  he  heard  rumours  that  a  new  Governor  was  expected 
to  arrive  from  Spain,  to  displace  Pedrarias,  and  apprehensive 
lest  a  new  ruler  should  be  opposed  to  the  schemes  he  had  in  hand, 
he  sent  a  trusted  messenger  back  to  Ada,  to  watch  events  and 
report,  but  was  very  unfortunate  in  selecting  Garabito,  upon  whose 
loyalty  he  rehed,  but  who  ultimately  betrayed  him. 

On  his  arrival  at  Ada,  Garabito,  learning  that  Pedrarias  was 
still  in  command  at  Santa  Maria,  was  indiscreet  enough  to  arouse 
the  suspicions  of  the  colonists,  who  arrested  him,  and  sent  all 
his  papers  and  letters  to  the  Governor,  whilst,  under  threats  of 
punishment,  they  obtained  from  him  a  confession  of  the  secret 
of  his  mission. 

The  antipathy  and  distrust  of  Pedrarias  were  deepened  by  the 
slanders  he  was  only  too  \\illing  to  believe,  and  he  ordered  the 
absent  Adelantado  back  to  Ada,  ostensibly  to  talk  over  the  new 
expedition,  but  really  to  stand  his  trial.  Balboa,  on  his  arrival, 
was  cast  into  prison,  where  he  was  visited  by  Pedrarias,  who, 
with  characteristic  dissimulation,  avowed  friendship,  and  said  that 
the  proceedings  \\  hich  he  had  instigated  were  merely  formal  and 
necessary  to  clear  Balboa's  character  of  the  slanders  and  charges 
which  had  been  brought  against  it. 

The  charge  made  was  that  of  treasonable  conspirac}^  to  cast 
off  all  allegiance  to  the  Crown,  under  a  determination  to  sail, 
operate,  and  trade  in  the  South  Seas  entirely  for  private  benefit. 
The  evidence  rested  largely  on  the  testimony  of  the  traitorous 
Garabito,  and  eavesdroppers,  who  stated  that  they  had  over- 
heard Balboa  and  his  officers  planning  to  sail  on  their  own  account 
and  ignore  the  authority  of  the  Governor.  In  vain  Balboa  in- 
dignantly pointed  out  the  flimsiness  of  the  accusation,  main- 
taining that,  were  there  the  shghtest  truth  in  the  charges  made, 
it  was  very  unlikely  he  would  have  returned  and  put  himself 
in  the  power  of  the  Governor,  when  he  could  easily  have  sailed 
away  in  the  ships  he  now  had  on  the  Pacific  and  found  a  land 

32 


The  Sighting  of  the  Pacific 

or  island  to  supply  him  and  his  men  with  safe  subsistence,  far 
away  from  the  chances  of  interference  from  the  power  it  was 
alleged  he  was  anxious  to  cast  off. 

The  trial  dragged  along  for  many  days,  and  the  verdict  of 
guilty  was  accompanied  by  a  recommendation  to  mercy,  on 
account  of  the  prisoner's  great  services,  while  the  hope  was  ex- 
pressed that  permission  would  be  granted  to  him  to  appeal  to  a 
higher  tribunal  in  Spain. 

Pedrarias,  glad  of  the  opportunity  of  clearing  from  his  path 
a  man  of  whom  he  was  inordinately  jealous,  would  listen  to  no 
entreaties  from  the  many  advocates  of  the  claims  of  the  prisoner 
to  consideration,  and  the  day  following  the  verdict  Balboa,  with 
three  of  his  principal  officers,  preceded  by  the  public  crier,  walked 
in  chains  to  meet  his  fate  at  the  block  erected  in  the  Public  Square  ; 
and  for  days  afterwards  his  gory  head,  stuck  on  the  end  of  a  pole, 
met  the  gaze  of  the  sorrowing  inhabitants  of  the  town  of  Ada. 

Pedrarias  soon  found  out  the  futihty  of  attempting  to  main- 
tain a  prosperous  colony  at  Santa  Maria,  for  the  implacable 
hostiht}^  of  the  Indians  and  the  depredations  in  his  ranks  by 
sickness,  combined  with  the  disappointment  of  his  expectations 
of  finding  the  treasure  he  sought,  drove  him  to  shift  his  head- 
quarters to  a  more  advantageous  spot. 

Having  got  rid  of  the  Governor  of  Panama,  in  the  person 
of  Balboa,  he  proceeded  to  estabhsh  himself  within  that  terri- 
tory, and  fixing  a  site  upon  the  bay  in  which  are  situated  the. 
Pearl  Islands,  he  there  founded  a  city  to  which  he  gave  the 
name  of  Panama,  and  thither  he  transferred  the  seat  of  govern- 
ment, so  that  it  became  the  capital  of  Terra  Firma. 


Z2> 


CHAPTER    III 
The  Buccaneers 

THE  short-sighted  poHcy  of  the  Spaniards  in  exterminating 
the  natives  of  the  countries  which  they  conquered, 
necessitated  the  importation  of  the  negro  from  Africa,  and  led 
to  the  development  of  a  huge  trafhc  in  slaves,  in  which  England, 
France,  and'  Portugal  played  an  important  part. 

The  men  engaged  in  this  trade  were  naturally  a  ruffianly  set 
who  soon  became  familiar  with  the  operations  in  the  newly 
acquired  Spanish  territories,  and  were  quick  to  take  advantage 
of  the  knowledge  which  they  thus  acquired. 

Lucrative  as  the  slave  trade  undoubtedly  was,  those  engaged 
in  it  could  not  but  be  tempted  by  the  untold  wealth  which  they 
saw  in  the  countries  they  visited  and  which  passed  them  in  the 
galleons  crossing  the  sea  ;  and  the  growing  jealousy  on  the  part 
of  the  other  European  nations  of  the  power  and  opulence  of 
Spain  encouraged  the  more  lawless  and  daring  to  organise  attacks 
upon  the  wealth  and  treasure  in  course  of  transit. 

Many  of  these  hard}^  ruffians,  the  off-scourings  of  their  own 
countries,  conceived  the  idea  of  acquiring  territory  in  the  West 
Indian  Islands,  and  were  encouraged  by  their  respective  Govern- 
ments. 

A  number  of  them  possessed  themselves  of  the  small  island 
of  Tortuga,  which  lies  to  the  north-west  of  Hayti,  and  from  here 
roved  the  whole  Caribbean  Sea  making  war  upon  the  Spaniards 
both  on  sea  and  land. 

They  had  learned  from  the  Indians  the  art  of  curing  the  flesh 
of  animals  killed  in  hunting  so  that  it  would  keep  for  almost  any 
length  of  time.  The  method  adopted  was  to  lay  the  meat  upon  a 
wooden  grill  placed  over  a  smouldering  fire  composed  of  leaves, 
into  which — to  give  a  flavour  to  the  meat — ^they  cast  the  skins 
of  the  slaughtered  animals.     The  meat  thus  smoked  was  called 

34 


The  Buccaneers 


"  Boucan,'"'  and  ultimately  this  name  was  also  given  to  the  place 
where  it  w^as  cooked,  and  those  who  had  adopted  the  preparing 
of  meat  in  this  way  were  called  "  buccaneers." 

This  name  came  to  be  generally  applied  to  the  motley  collection 
of  characters  from  all  Europe  who  settled  in  these  parts,  every 
type  of  social  Ish- 
maelite  of  the  period 
let  loose  on  the  world 
to  fight  and  struggle 
for  existence  as  best 
they  could. 

Some  among  them 
from  England  had 
started  on  their 
roving  life  from  very 
exuberance  of  good 
spirits  and  love  of 
adventure.  Others 
were  driven  to  this 
lawless  existence  by 
necessity,  or  by  some 
trivial  violation  of 
the  stringent  laws 
then  existing  in  their 
own  country. 

Whenever  a  suc- 
cessful fleet  of  these 
desperadoes  arrived 
in  Port  Royal  or 
Tortuga,  it  was  the 
signal  to  the  populace  that  festive  times  were  at  hand — such 
times  as  make  the  head  dizzy  to  think  of,  lasting  not  only  till 
the  money  was  all  spent,  but  until  credit  was  gone  as  well. 

The  tavern  keepers  would  give  credit  according  to  the  faith 
they  had  in  their  customers'  ability  to  redeem  their  pledges. 
Doubtless  their  faith  often  received  rude  shocks,  for  the  risks 
were  many,  but.  taking  it  on  the  whole  their  profits  were  immense, 
as  the  larger  part  of  the  ship's  plunder  was  spent  with  them. 

Lawless  as  the  buccaneers  were,  they  yet  had  laws  which 
regulated  the  conduct  of  each  adventure  they  embarked  upon. 


THE    PIRATE    "  L  OLLONOIS. 


A  Tour  through  South  Auierica 

True  these  were  liable  to  be  changed  by  a  successful  majority, 
but,  as  a  rule,  all  obeyed  them,  probably  because  sufficient  in- 
ducement was  offered  or  coercion  used. 

During  the  three  distinct  epochs  of  the  history  of  these  piratical 
adventurers  the  types  were  constant.  From  the  time  when  they 
first  forsook  their  wild  calhng  in  Hispaniola  and  took  to  hunting 
men  for  their  treasure  instead  of  animals  for  their  flesh— up  to 
the  period  when  Morgan  stood  out  as  a  hero  who  commanded 
the  consideration  if  not  the  respect  of  all  the  inhabitants  of  the 
New  World,  they  were  unhampered  by  the  interference  of  Govern- 
ment. 

From  1671  to  1685  they  extended  the  sphere  of  their  opera- 
tions, and  ranged  the  whole  of  the  Pacific  Coast  of  America  from 
California  to  Chili,  and  this  has  been  called  the  second  period. 

The  third  extends  from  1685  onwards,  and  marks  the  decline 
of  their  power,  a  degeneration  in  their  methods,  and  a  lessening 
of  their  numbers. 

There  is  a  glamour  about  their  adventures  which  appeals  to 
most  persons,  the  fine  courage  and  persistent  daring  which  was 
undaunted  by  the  terrible  hardships  and  sufferings  they  under- 
went, giving  a  touch  of  heroism  to  their  doings  in  spite  of  the 
inhuman  butcheries  and  cruelties  they  perpetrated. 

Outstanding  names  of  buccaneers  are  familiar  to  everyone, 
Mansvelt,  L'Ollonois,  Morgan,  Dampier,  Kidd,  Sharp,  being  a 
few  of  the  more  prominent.  Round  each  of  these  romances  have 
been  written,  and  although  there  may  be  some  deeds  of  valour 
credited  to  them,  the  glory  of  which  they  are  not  entitled  to,  and 
some  atrocities,  the  gruesomeness  of  which  they  were  guiltless  of, 
yet  it  cannot  be  said  that  authentic  details  of  their  lives  and 
enterprises  do  not  furnish  parallel  instances. 

Their  callous  indifference  to  the  sufferings  of  their  own  com- 
panions prepares  us  for  the  studied  fiendishness  with  which  they 
treated  their  enemies,  and  their  fanatical  hatred  of  the  Spaniards 
overmastered  every  consideration  of  humanity. 

That  the  buccaneers  had  courage  and  daring  is  well  borne  out 
by  the  life  of  Henry  Morgan,  the  son  of  a  respectable  Welsh 
farmer.  He  appears  to  have  found  his  way  to  Jamaica,  and  there 
fallen  in  with  Mansvelt,  then  the  most  notorious  of  the  free- 
booters. 

After  serving  a  sort  of  apprenticeship  with  this  redoubtable 

36 


The  Bttccaneers 


pirate,  Morgan,  on  the  death  of  Mansvelt  was  promoted  to  the 
command. 

Using  Jamaica  as  his  headquarters  he  made  excursions  in  the 
neighbourhood  of  Cuba  which  added  to  his  reputation.    His  next 
venture     was     against 
Porto  Bello,  one  of  the 
best   fortified    ports   in 
the  West  Indies. 

Morgan's  profession 
and  attention  were 
directed  to  this  spot 
by  the  knowledge  he 
had  of  its  containing 
the  large  storehouses,  in 
which  the  treasure  from 
the  Spanish  colonies  in 
the  South  awaited  the 
arrival  of  the  fleet  of 
royal  galleons  which 
sailed  with  it  annually 
to  Spain. 

As  formerly  in  Nom- 
bre  de  Dios,  so  here  an 
annual   fair  was    held, 


SIR    HENRY    MORGAN. 

From  an  old  print. 


and  the  merchants  who  had  business  came  over  from  Panama 
with  their  treasure  of  gold  and  silver  from  the  mines  of  Peru, 
attended  by  an  escort  of  Spanish  troops. 

Ships  belonging  to  the  West  Indian  Company  arrived  from 
Africa  with  cargoes  of  slaves,  and  the  whole  town  was,  while  the 
fair  lasted,  a  scene  of  great  animation. 

Porto  Bello  at  this  period  was  not  considered  quite  a  health 
resort,  so  that  in  the  off  seasons  the  population  decreased.  Morgan, 
who  had  four  hundred  and  sixty  men  in  his  expedition,  kept  his 
plans  secret,  and,  only  telling  his  companions  that  he  expected 
to  make  a  big  haul,  he  landed  by  night  at  a  short  distance  from 
the  city.  Guided  by  an  Englishman  who  had  been  a  prisoner  in 
these  parts,  they  marched  on  to  the  town,  capturing  on  their  way 
one  of  the  sentinels,  whom  they  bound  and  carried  in  front  of 
them.  They  surrounded  one  of  the  castles  which  stood  near  the 
town,  and  called  upon  the  inmates  to  surrender,  but  the  only 

37 


A  Tour  through  South  Ainerica 

reply  was  a  volley  which  alarmed  the  town.  After  a  brief  but 
gallant  defence  the  fortress  was  forced  to  surrender,  and  the 
pirates,  thrusting  the  vanquished  inside,  blew  both  garrison  and 
castle  into  the  air.  The  Governor  of  the  city  and  a  number  of 
the  more  influential  merchants,  had  taken  shelter  in  the  remain- 
ing castle,  against  the  walls  of  which  the  pirates  now  placed  broad 
scaling  ladders  constructed  hastily  for  this  purpose.  Up  these 
ladders  Morgan  forced  friars  and  nuns  whom  he  had  taken 
prisoners  to  ascend  as  a  cover  to  his  men  following  close  behind, 
but  in  thinking  the  besieged  would  not  risk  harming  members  of 
their  religious  orders  he  was  mistaken,  for  pious  and  pirates  were 
alike  killed  by  the  inmates  of  the  castle,  who  used  all  means  they 
could  to  prevent  the  assault  being  successful. 

After  a  long  and  determined  resistance  the  defenders  at  length 
threw  down  their  arms  and  surrendered,  but  the  Governor  fought 
to  the  last,  killing  many  of  the  pirates,  and  even  despatching 
some  of  his  own  men  for  not  standing  to  their  arms.  He  would 
accept  no  quarter  in  spite  of  the  pleading  of  his  wife  and  daughter 
who,  on  their  knees,  begged  him  to  give  in ;   and  he  fell  fighting. 

The  pirates  took  possession  of  the  castle,  shutting  up  all  the 
prisoners,  men  and  women  together.  The  wounded  were  placed 
in  an  apartment  by  themselves,  "  that  their  complaints  might  be 
a  cure  of  their  diseases,  for  no  other  was  afforded  them." 

This  done,  the  buccaneers  gave  themselves  up  to  a  wild  debauch 
which  lasted  well  into  the  night.  Next  morning  the  prisoners 
were  brought  out  and  tortured  till  they  should  reveal  the  hiding- 
places  of  their  treasure. 

For  fifteen  days  looting  and  carousing  fully  occupied  the  time 
of  the  marauders,  and  before  departing  Morgan  fixed  the  ransom 
of  the  city  at  one  hundred  thousand  pieces  of  eight,  threatening 
to  burn  the  town  and  blow  up  the  castles  if  this  were  not  procured 
at  once. 

Messengers  were  sent  with  this  demand  to  Panama,  and  the 
Governor  of  that  city,  having  got  a  force  together,  set  out  for 
Porto  Bello. 

The  pirates,  hearing  of  this,  went  out  to  meet  him  at  a  narrow 
gorge  through  which  he  was  bound  to  pass,  and  a  hundred  of 
them  were  sufficient  to  check  the  approach  of  the  bold  men  from 
Panama. 

From  a  safe  distance  the  Governor  then  sent  word  to  Morgan, 

38 


^si 


The  Buccaneers 


threatening  him  that  if  he  did  not  retire  at  once  it  would  go  hard 
with  him,  to  which  the  implacable  buccaneer  repUed  that  all  he 
wanted  was  the  money,  and  when  he  got  it  he  would  leave,  but  not 
before.  Persuaded  that  he  was  in  earnest  the  Governor  rode 
back  to  Panama,  leaving  the  distressed  citizens  of  Porto  Bello 
to  get  out  of  their  diihculties  as  best  they  could. 

The  ransom  was  raised  and  the  dem.ands  of  Morgan  were  satisfied. 

So  astonished  was  the  Governor  of  Panama  at  the  fall  of  so 
strong  a  city  before  such  a  handful  of  men,  that  he  sent  to  Morgan 
to   ask   him   for   a 

pattern  of  the  BBBKF^®^''*^^^^^K%*'**^^#*^^'^^^'^'-^^ 
weapons  with 
which  he  had  ac- 
complished so  great 
a  feat.  Not  with- 
out humour  Mor- 
gan gave  a  pistol 
and  some  bullets  to 
the  envoy  to  take 
back,  with  instruc- 
tions to  his  master 
to  keep  the  same 
for  a  year,  when  the 
sender  would  come 
in  person  to  Panama 
and  claim  them. 

The  Governor, 
thinking  this  ^^'as 
no  joke,  returned 
the  proffered  loan, 
assuring  Morgan 
that  he  had  no 
need  of  such  wea- 
pons.   At  the  same 

time  he  sent  a  ring  of  gold  and  the  message  "  that  he  desired 
him  not  to  give  himself  the  labour  of  coming  to  Panama  as  he 
had  done  to  Porto  Bello,  for  he  did  assure  him  he  should  not 
speed  so  well  there  as  he  had  done  there." 

In  July,  1670,  a  treaty  was  concluded  between  Great  Britain 
and  Spain  with  the  object  of  putting  an  end  to  the  depredations 

39 


A  7 our  through  South  America 

of  the  buccaneers,  and  bringing  about  peace  and  a  settled  state  of 
affairs  in  the  West  Indian  Islands.  On  the  pubhcation  of  this 
treaty,  the  buccaneers  determined  on  a  great  expedition  ;  fearing, 
doubtless,  that  the  chances  for  their  professional  operations 
would  be  curtailed  after  the  treaty  had  been  put  into  force  and 
was  well  established. 

Morgan,  therefore,  made  preparations  and  gathered  around 
him  men  and  ships  for  what  was  to  be  his  greatest  undertaking. 
The  rewards  to  be  given  on  this  voyage,  and  the  rules  for  the 
conduct  of  the  enterprise,  were  all  written  out,  agreed  upon,  and 
signed  by  each  of  the  pirate  crews.  Morgan  himself  was  to  take 
one  hundredth  part  of  the  booty,  and  the  captain  of  each  ship 
was  to  draw  the  shares  of  eight  men  over  and  above  his  own,  for 
the  expenses  of  his  vessel. 

The  surgeons  were  allowed  two  hundred  pieces  of  eight,  besides 
their  pay,  for  chests  of  medicines.  The  compensations  for  the 
loss  of  limbs  or  eyes  were  very  liberal,  the  payment  being  made 
in  money  or  slaves  according  to  the  sufferers'  choice.  An  extra 
reward  was  held  out  to  the  pirate  who  should,  in  any  engage- 
ment, be  the  first  to  haul  down  the  enemies'  colours,  enter  a  castle 
or  perform  some  similar  act  of  daring. 

Panama  had  been  decided  upon,  by  general  consent,  as  being 
the  richest  of  the  three  cities  from  which  a  selection  was  to  be 
made,  i;he  other  two  being  Cartagena  and  Vera  Craz. 

The  pirates  sailed  first  to  the  island  of  St.  Catherine  or  Old 
Providence  to  obtain  guides  from  among  the  bandit  outlaws 
from  Panama  who  were  banished  to  that  place. 

When  they  arrived  at  this  penal  settlement,  which  was  strongly 
fortified,  Morgan,  with  the  connivance  of  the  Governor  of  the 
island,  put  up  a  sham  fight  in  order  to  give  the  appearance  that 
force  had  been  used  in  obtaining  what  he  wanted. 

Having  obtained  a  plentiful  supply  of  provisions  and  three 
bandits,  who  were  acquainted  with  the  route  from  Porto  Bello  to 
Panama  and  who  were  promised  their  hberty  and  a  share  of  the 
plunder,  should  the  undertaking  prove  successful,  Morgan  sent 
four  ships  and  one  boat  well  equipped  to  Chagres  to  take  the 
castle  there,  while  he  remained  at  St.  Catherine's  with  the  bulk 
of  the  expedition  awaiting  the  result  of  this  preliminary  venture, 
and  to  avoid  giving  the  alarm  to  the  Spaniards  as  to  his  real 
design.  The  castle  of  Chagres  or  San  Lorenzo,  situated  on  the 
40 


The  Buccaneers 

summit  of  a  steep  hill  at  the  entrance  of  the  river,  was  surrounded 
by  high  palisades  filled  in  with  earth,  a  formidable  place  almost 
impregnable  in  those  days,  yet  notwithstanding  the  strong 
position  it  occupied  and  the  extraordinarily  brilliant  defence 
which  the  Spanish  untiringly  maintained  it  fell  at  last  into  the 
hands  of  the  enemy. 


AN    OLD   SENTRY    TOWER   ON   THE 

On  receiving  news  of  the  capture  of  Chagres,  Morgan  sailed 
thither  with  the  main  portion  of  his  expedition  and  repaired 
the  castle,  estabhshing  a  garrison  there.  Besides  this  garrison 
he  left  a  number  of  his  men  in  charge  of  the  ships,  and  on  the 
i8th  January,  1671,  with  one  thousand  two  hundred  men,  thirty- 
two  canoes,  and  five  boats  laden  with  artillery  started  up  the 
Chagres  River  en  roiiie  for  Panama. 

The  next  evening  they  arrived  at  Cruz  de  Juan  Jallego,  where 

41 


A  Tour  through  South  America 

the  river  was  so  dry,  and  the  way  blocked  by  so  many  fallen 
trees,  that  they  were  obliged  to  leave  the  boats  in  charge  of  one 
hundred  and  sixty  men  who  were  ordered  not  to  desert  their  post 
upon  pain  of  death. 

Some  of  the  party  continued  the  journey  in  canoes,  and  with 
great  difficulty  reached  Cedro  Bueno,  the  canoes  returning  for  the 
rest  of  the  party,  and  all  were  assembled  that  same  night,  hoping 
in  vain  to  fall  in  wdth  Spaniards  or  Indians  from  whom  they 
might  obtain  food,  as  they  were  well-nigh  exhausted  from  hunger. 

On  the  fourth  day  most  of  the  party  marched  by  land,  the 
remainder  still  keeping  to  the  canoes,  both  parties  being  con- 
ducted by  guides,  ^\hilst  scouts  sent  on  ahead  took  care  to 
examine  the  sides  of  the  track  and  to  prevent  surprise  from  any 
lurking  enemies. 

About  noon  they  arrived  at  a  point  where  the  guide  accom- 
panying the  canoes  gave  the  alarm  that  he  had  perceived  an 
ambuscade.  Overjoyed  at  the  good  news  the  pirates  hastened 
to  the  spot  where  the  enemy  were  supposed  to  be  lurking,  but 
were  disappointed  when  they  discovered  that  the  Spaniards  had 
fled,  taking  with  them  everything  of  an  edible  nature,  and  leaving 
nothing  but  a  few  empty  leathern  bags.  The  enraged  buccaneers 
set  fire  to  the  huts,  and  fell  to  and  ate  the  leathern  bags,  so  keen . 
had  their  appetite  become.  The  leather  after  being  stripped  of 
the  hair  was  pounded  between  stones  and  then  cut  into  small 
pieces  and  broiled,  quarrels  ensuing  over  the  sizes  of  the  portions 
allotted. 

On  the  fifth  day  they  arrived  at  a  village  where  they  found 
traces  of  recent  occupation,  and  diligent  search  being  made  for 
some  kind  of  animal  or  fruit  on  which  to  feed  the  army,  the}^ 
discovered  a  cave  in  which  were  stored  some  sacks  of  maize,  two 
jars  of  wine  and  a  few  plantains. 

On  the  seventh  day  they  cleaned  their  arms  and  tried  their 
firelocks,  before  crossing  the  river  and  arriving  at  Cruces.  The 
sight  of  smoke  issuing  from  the  village  raised  their  hopes,  and 
caused  them  to  hurry  forward.  Perspiring  and  out  of  breath 
they  reached  the  spot  only  to  find  it  deserted  and  nothing  but  the 
fires,  of  which  they  had  no  need,  to  welcome  them. 

They  revenged  themselves  by  setting  fire  to  the  huts,  and 
eating  the  few  cats  and  dogs  that  fingered  round  the  village. 

In  what  were  called  the  King's  stables  they  found  some  wine 
42 


The  Buccaneers 

and  a  large  leathern  sack  with  bread  in  it,  but  so  ill  did  those 
who  drank  this  wine  become,  that  they  jumped  to  the  conclusion 
it  had  been  poisoned.  But  their  sickness  was  after  all  only  the 
effect  of  the  good  wine  upon  their  empty  stomachs. 

As  Cruces  was  the  last  point  in  ascending  the  river  to  which 
their  canoes  could  be  brought  their  further  progress  had  to  be 
made  entirely  on  foot.  Before  they  set  out  on  their  march  some 
of  the  pirates  made  rigorous  search  in  the  surrounding  district 
for  victuals  of  some  kind  wherewith  to  appease  their  gnawing 
hunger,  but  surprised  by  the  late  inhabitants  of  the  town,  who 
were  in  hiding  in  the  bush,  the  buccaneers  were  compelled  to 
retreat. 

Morgan  now  sent  two  hundred  men  in  advance  of  the  main 
body  to  detect  any  ambuscade  that  might  exist,  and  to  discover 
the  way  to  Panama. 

On  the  eighth  day  after  ten  hours'  marching,  the  entire  force 
reached  a  place  called  Quebrada  Obscura,  where  they  were 
suddenly  assailed  by  a  flight  of  thousands  of  arrows  shot  by 
some  hidden  foes,  and  from  this  point  onward  they  were  continu- 
ally harassed  by  straggling  parties  of  Indians  commanded  by 
Spaniards. 

The  ninth  day  had  barely  dawned  when  an  early  start  was 
made  to  take  advantage  of  the  cool  morning  air,  and  after  an 
hour's  march  they  ascended  a  high  hill  from  which  they  could  see 
the  ocean  and  discern  the  ships  and  boats  lying  in  the  bay. 

Their  troubles  were  almost  forgotten  when,  on  descending  to 
the  plain  below,  they  came  upon  a  herd  of  cattle,  and  they  were 
not  long  in  killing  and  roasting  a  sufficient  number  of  these,  on 
which  they  gorged  themselves  in  a  most  ravenous  manner. 

Filling  their  satchels  with  the  remains  of  the  feast,  they  con- 
tinued their  march,  always  preceded  by  a  detachment  of  scouts 
who  were  now  on  the  look-out — not  only  for  ambuscades — but 
for  any  native  they  might  come  across  from  whom  they  could 
obtain  information  as  to  the  position  and  strength  of  the  defences 
of  the  city. 

Before  nightfall  they  descried  the  high  cathedral  tower,  and 
soon  camped  for  the  night  within  sight  of  the  city  itself. 

So  eager  and  excited  were  they  that  it  was  with  the  greatest 
impatience  they  awaited  the  morrow,  which  they  felt  confident 
would  see  them  in  possession  of  the  much-coveted  treasure. 

43 


A  Tour  through  South  America 

All  night  long  the  inmates  of  the  threatened  city  kept  up  an 
incessant  fire  with  their  big  guns,  in  a  vain  endeavour  to  reach 
the  camp  of  the  pirates,  who  indulged  in  revels  and  feasted  on 
the  remains  of  their  morning's  meal. 

When  the  eagerly  expected  dawn  broke  the  camp  was  all  astir, 
and  Morgan  marshalled  his  now  enthusiastic  followers,  and  with 
drums  and  trumpets  sounding  set  out  towards  the  city. 

They  kept  to  the  woods  as  affording  them  cover,  and  the 
Governor  of  the  city,  unprepared  for  this  change  of  route,  came 
out  with  a  strong  band  of  followers  to  check  the  advances  of  the 
buccaneers.  He  had  one  novel  regiment,  composed  of  wild 
cattle  driven  and  directed  by  the  herdsmen. 

So  formidable  did  the  Spanish  army  appear  that  many  of  the 
buccaneers  were  overawed,  and  had  it  been  possible  would  have 
refused  the  encounter. 

But  Morgan  urged  them  forward,  and,  dividing  the  troops  into 
three  divisions,  ordered  two  hundred  of  his  best  marksmen  to 
advance  to  the  attack. 

The  Spanish  cavalry,  whose  movements  were  much  impeded 
by  the  soft  nature  of  the  ground,  advanced  to  meet  them,  and 
the  fight  began  in  grim  earnest.  Very  soon  the  horsemen  \\'ere 
compelled  to  retreat  before  the  deadly  fire  of  the  sharpshooters, 
and  after  making  one  final  effort  to  disorganise  the  pirates  by 
driving  the  wild  bulls  on  to  them  from  behind,  the  attacking 
defenders  fled  in  all  directions.  Those  who  fell  into  the  hands  of 
the  pirates  received  no  quarter  ;  and  even  friars,  who  pleaded 
hard  for  mercy,  had  but  short  shrift. 

Before  despatching  them,  Morgan  learned  from  some  of  the 
prisoners  he  had  taken  that  the  whole  force  of  the  garrison  was 
400  horse  and  2400  foot,  not  counting  the  Indians  and  slaves 
who  were  engaged  to  drive  the  2000  wild  bulls,  the  employment 
of  which  had  proved  so  futile. 

The  loss  of  life  on  both  sides  had  been  great ;  but  the  pirates 
had  more  dangers  to  encounter  before  the  city  was  completely 
in  their  hands.  Guns  which  had  been  mounted  in  hastily  con- 
structed batteries  directed  a  fierce  fire  upon  them  as  they  marched 
towards  the  walls,  and  many  more  were  killed  before  they  got 
through  the  gates  and  began  to  pillage  the  town. 

For  some  reason  that  has  never  been  properly  understood  or 
accounted  for,  Morgan  set  fire  to  the  place,  and  all  attempts  to 

44 


The  Buccaneers 

stay  the  progress  of  the  flames  were  unavaihng.  Richly  decorated 
buildings  filled  with  fine  tapestries  and  pictures  were,  with  few 
exceptions,  reduced  to  ashes.  The  fire,  it  has  been  stated,  lasted 
for  a  whole  month,  and  hundreds  of  slaves  who  had  hidden  in 
the  buildings  perished  in  the  flames. 

Only  one  of  the  churches  escaped  the  fire,  and  the  pirates  used 
it  as  a  hospital. 

The  main  body  of  the  marauders  encamped  at  night  outside 
the  city,  but  all  day  long  were  busy  within  its  walls  ransacking 
the  rich  w^arehouses  and  dwellings  before  the  fire  should  reach 
them. 

There  was  one  large  warehouse  in  the  city  in  which  the  Genoese 
conducted  their  slave  market,  two  thousand  magnificent  houses 
filled  with  riches  of  every  description,  besides  five  thousand 
smaller  dwelHngs  and  two  hundred  warehouses,  and  from  these 
the  plunderers  obtained  a  very  considerable  amount  of  booty. 
But  by  far  the  most  valuable  treasure  in  the  city  was  lost  to  the 
pirates,  for  the  King's  plate  and  royal  treasure,  together  with  the 
gold  and  silver  plate  and  jewelled  vestments  of  the  churches  and 
monasteries,  had  been  put  on  board  a  huge  galleon  and  taken  out 
to  sea. 

It  has  always  been  known  that  much  of  the  treasure  that 
escaped  the  buccaneers,  as  well  as  a  large  amount  of  the  booty 
which  they  captured  and  hid  in  various  retreats,  has  never  been 
discovered  or  reclaimed,  and  for  years  many  and  varied  expedi- 
tions have  been  fitted  out  with  the  object  of  seeking  and  finding 
these  lost  riches. 

Morgan  and  his  gang  had,  however,  done  very  well  out  of 
their  expedition  to  Panama,  from  whence  they  returned  to  Chagres 
laden  with  spoil. 

As  part  of  a  deep-laid  scheme  which  had  matured  in  his  own 
mind,  Morgan,  when  half-way  from  Cruces  to  Chagres,  ordered  all 
the  pirates  to  be  thoroughly  searahed,  in  spite  of  the  usual  solemn 
oath  which  every  one  of  them  had  taken,  that  they  would  conceal 
no  treasure.  He  even  permitted  himself  to  be  subjected  to  the 
same  indignity  in  order  to  prevent  the  resentment  which  this 
unusual  order  might  provoke. 

But  resentment  and  suspicion  were  expressed  in  murmurings 
and  complaints  when  the  spoil  was  divided  on  their  reaching 
Chagres,  for  it  was  thought  and  alleged  that  the  commander  had 

45 


A  Tour  throitgh  South  America 

kept  the  best  jewels  to  himself.  The  grumbling  reached  such  a 
pitch  that  it  caused  Morgan  no  little  apprehension,  but  he  had 
already  determined  on  his  plan  of  playing  a  dastardly  trick  upon 
his  companions. 


THE  Ol  D  CHURCH  TOWER,  OLD  PANAMA. 

After  demohshing  the  fort  at  Chagres,  and  setting  fire  to  the 
principal  buildings  in  the  town,  he  surreptitiously  crept  on  board 
the  vessel  which  contained  the  treasure  and  provisions,  taking 
with  him  a  few  of  his  chosen  companions,  and,  in  the  early  hours 
of  the  morning,  while  the  remainder  of  the  band  were  in  a  deep 

46 


The  Bitccaiieers 


sleep,  he  sailed  away  for  Jamaica  with  all  the  plunder  captured 
by  the  expedition,  a  rich  store  of  the  treasures  which  formed  the 
staple  commerce  between  the  Old  World  and  the  New. 

The  resentment  and  fury  of  the  deserted  robbers  knew  no 
bounds,  for  surely  in  all  the  annals  of  their  history  there  was  no 
parallel  to  such  treachery.  The  English  pirates  who  were  thus 
basely  treated  by  their  countryman  set  out  in  one  of  the  remain- 
ing vessels  in  hot  but  unavailing  pursuit,  and  the  Frenchmen 
who  had  joined  the  bold  enterprise  with  confidence  now  made 
their  way  back  to  Tortuga  to  brood  over  their  wrongs  and  plan 
fresh  expeditions^  vowing  vengeance  on  the  lustful  bully  who  had 
robbad  them  of  their  spoil. 


'IHK    RAMPARTS.       FORT    LORENZO. 


47 


CHAPTER    IV 

On  the  Way  to  the  Southern  Continent 

AFTER  leaving  Kingston,  Jamaica,  one  has  an  opportunity 
/~\  of  observing  some  of  the  many  types  who  journey  to  the 
isthmus  of  Panama. 

The  steamer  is  crowded  and  its  comfort  impaired  by  the 
numerous  obstacles  such  as  luggage  and  deck  chairs,  which  prevent 
promenading  and  the  taking  of  the  usual  form  of  exercise  on  board 
ship.  On  the  fore  deck,  huddled  together  in  endless  confusion, 
are  labourers  from  the  island  just  left  ;  behind  their  "  household 
gods  " — parrots,  monkeys,  poultry,  and  dogs — enjoying  in  many 
cases  more  comfort  than  their  owners. 

In  the  dim  shadows  cast  by  the  awning  spread  to  protect  them 
from  the  glare  of  the  burning  sun,  or  the  torrential  rain  which 
might  at  any  moment  descend ;  reclining  upon  chairs,  hammocks 
or  bedding  spread  upon  the  deck,  men  and  women  of  varying  age, 
colour  and  costume,  seek  oblivion  in  sleep  from  the  nausea 
occasioned  by  the  monotonous  rolling  of  the  ship. 

On  the  afternoon  of  the  third  day,  through  the  haze  of  a  tropical 
downpour.  Colon  is  sighted.  Though  the  rain  falls  in  sheets,  the 
eye  can  trace  through  the  silvery  mists  the  faint  outline  of  the 
coast  and  contour  of  the  hills  ;  whilst  away  across  the  bay,  at  its 
western  extremity,  the  Toro  Lighthouse  is  dimly  visible. 

This  island  of  Manzanilla,  upon  which  Colon  is  built,  was  passed 
and  repassed  many  times  by  Columbus,  when,  on  his  fourth  and 
last  voyage,  he  searched  so  dihgently  for  the  Straits  which  he 
beheved  existed.  His  objective  was  to  reach  India,  the  land  of 
the  Grand  Khan,  and  it  was  only  after  his  ships  had  been  reduced 
to  mere  leaking  hulks,  that  he  abandoned  the  search  for  the 
opening  which  he  imagined  must  be  there.  Four  hundred  eventful 
years  have  passed,  yet  men's  minds  have  never  ceased  from 

48 


On  the  Way  to  the  Southern  Continenf 

dwelling  upon  the  idea  of  making  a  waterway  through  the  narrow 
neck  of  land  that  connects  two  great  continents  and  divides 
two  vast  seas.  From  the  beginning  of  the  eighteenth  century, 
plans  have  been  put  forward  for  the  accomplishment  _of  this 
task  ;  but  it  was  not  until  the  railway  across  the  isthmus  was 
completed  in  1854  that  any  serious  thought  was  given  by  re- 
sponsible persons  to  such  projects.  The  building  of  the  Panama 
Railway  was  brought  about  by  the  discovery  of  gold  in  California 
in  1849,  when  hundreds  of  adventurers  from  every  part  of  the 
globe  found  this  the  shortest  and  quickest  route  to  the  western 
El  Dorado.    The  history  of  how  Aspinwall  and  Stevens  accom- 


OLD    \ViIAR\ES,    COLON. 


plished  their  task  of  completing  this  short  railway  across  a  fetid 
tropical  country,  is  one  of  the  finest  records  of  human  endurance 
and  perseverance.  Sickness  and  disease  thinned  the  ranks  of  their 
labourers,  and  the  graves  of  hundreds  of  workers  who  perished  in 
this  enterprise  are  scattered  profusely  across  the  isthmus.  There 
is  a  legend  current  in  Panama  that  every  tie  on  the  railroad 
represents  a  human  life.  (That  this  is  an  exaggeration,  anyone 
who  reflects  will  readily  perceive  ;  for  it  would  mean  that  150,000 
deaths  had  occurred  in  the  five  years,  a  number  ten  times  greater 
than  the  whole  population  of  the  isthmus  at  that  period.)  Trains 
carrying  thousands  of  passengers,  and  tons  of  goods  across  the 
forty-seven  miles  of  track,  have  never  been  able  to  cope  with  the 

D  49 


A  Tour  through  South  A^nerica 

enormous  and  increasing  traffic.  That  a  catial,  through  which 
the  largest  ships  might  pass  from  the  Atlantic  to  the  Pacific, 
would  eventually  be  constructed,  few  people  doubted  ;  and  when 
De  Lesseps,  fresh  from  winning  his  laurels  at  Suez,  undertook 
to  construct  a  waterway,  his  enthusiasm  quickly  spread  to 
thousands  of  his  countrymen,  and  a  French  company  was  formed 
to  carry  out  his  schemes.  The  history  of  the  French  Canal  Company 
is  sad  reading,  and  is  now  almost  forgotten.  The  Panama  scandals 
and  the  trial  of  the  De  Lesseps,  father  and  son,  with  many  others 
connected  with  the  affair,  are  things  of  the  past :  the  United 
States  Government  have  taken  over  the  assets  of  the  derelict 
company,  and  innumerable  American  citizens  are  carried  annually 
to  the  scene  of  the  great  undertaking.  From  the  moment  the  ship 
leaves  New  York,  all  the  talk  on  board  is  of  the  isthmus  and  the 
canal,  and  those  who  have  never  visited  the  narrow  belt  of  land 
look  forward  eagerly  to  catching  their  first  glimpse  of  this  much- 
talked-of  country. 

But  the  unfamiliar  light  that  is  frequently  diffused  over  all, 
producing  ever-changing  and  delicate  tints  of  grey,  purple,  and 
blue,  veils  the  landscape  in  indistinctness,  so  that  expectations 
of  beholding  a  land  on  which  the  sun  pours  down  its  burning  rays, 
are  unrealised,  for  a  deluge  of  rain  almost  invariably  welcomes 
the  visitor. 

Directly  the  vessel  is  berthed,  the  formalities  attendant  upon 
landing  attract  the  attention.  All  the  passengers  are  ordered  into 
the  saloon,  and  are  medically  examined  by  the  officer  of  health 
for  the  port.  Those  unable  to  produce  evidence  of  recent  vaccina- 
tion are  promptly  operated  upon,  and  negroes  and  negresses 
reappear  upon  deck  with  crimson  stains  upon  their  long  black 
arms,  testifying  to  the  work  of  the  lancet. 

Frightened  mothers  and  terrified  children  are  sobbing  all 
around,  adding  to  the  general  din  that  arises  with  the  arrival  of  a 
steamer.  The  rain  still  pours  from  the  leaden  sky,  which  seems 
as  if  it  could  never  exhaust  its  weeping  grief,  and  even  in  the 
short  distance  from  the  shed  upon  the  wharf  to  a  ramshackle  bus 
or  cab,  the  exposure  is  sufficient  to  ensure  a  thorough  drenching. 

The  main  street,  and  indeed  all  of  Colon,  has  undergone  great 
improvements  of  recent  years.  A  short  drive  and  Christobal  is 
reached,  a  kind  of  suburb  of  Colon,  now  within  the  territory 
called  Canal  Zone,  owned  by  the  American  Government. 

50 


On  the  Way  to  the  Southern  Continent 

It  was  in  one  of  the  many  wooden  bungalows  built  in  the  time 
of  De  Lesseps,  and  facing  Limon  Bay,  that  I  took  up  my  first 
quarters  on  the  isthmus.  The  house  is  quite  typical  of  hundreds 
throughout  the  Zone  occupied  by  the  more  responsible  workers  on 


A  FAMILY  PARTY,  COLON. 


the  canal,  and  in  every  way  possible  the  comfort  of  the  occupants 
is  considered,  and  the  accommodation  is  ample  for  all  ordinary 
purposes. 

The  verandahs  surrounding  the  houses  are  securely  screened 
with  fine-meshed  copper  gauze  to  prevent  the  intrusion  of  the 

51 


A  Tour  through  South  America 

fever-bearing  stegomyia  mosquito  and  of  the  thousand  other 
noxious  insects  which  are  the  pests  of  this  tropical  country. 

Every  window  is  covered  in  the  same  manner,  the  doors  which 
open  from  the  verandahs  being  furnished  with  a  strong  spring, 
ensuring  their  being  kept  shut.  The  water  cisterns  are  all  covered, 
as  are  the  rain-water  tubs  placed  around  the  buildings,  and  there 
is  no  possibility  of  any  insect  finding  a  suitable  breeding  ground. 
During  the  whole  of  my  stay  on  the  isthmus  I  seldom  encountered 
a  mosquito,  and  it  is  no  exaggeration  to  say  that  this  insect  runs 
serious  risk  of  sharing  the  fate  of  the  dodo. 

The  first  work  that  the  Americans  undertook  upon  taking 
possession  of  their  new  territory,  was  to  put  into  operation  all 
means  conceivable  for  the  destruction  of  the  mosquitoes,  a  work 
that  would  have  been  impossible  if  the  Commission  had  not  pos- 
sessed the  power  to  direct  the  sanitary  and  health  measures  in  the 
towns  of  Panama  and  Colon,  which  both  lie  outside  of  the  Canal 
Zone,  but  are  so  intimately  connected  with  it  as  to  be  sources  of 
danger,  in  case  of  epidemics.  The  maintenance  of  law  and  order 
is  also  vested  in  the  United  States,  in  the  event  of  the  Republic  of 
Panama  proving  unable  to  cope  with  it. 

For  the  greatest  difficulty  the  Americans  have  had  to  contend 
with  has  been  the  climatic  conditions  so  fatal  to  the  workers 
during  the  construction  of  the  Panama  Railway  in  1850,  and 
throughout  the  operations  of  the  two  ill-fated  French  Canal 
Companies. 

The  careful  attention  which  the  Health  Department  of  the 
Canal  Commission  has  given  to  the  sanitation  and  purification  of 
their  new  territory,  as  well  as  of  the  towns  of  Colon  and  Panama, 
has  amply  justified  the  enormous  expense  by  the  wonderful 
results  obtained.  When  one  considers  that  yellow  fever  has 
always  been  regarded  by  tropical  Americans  as  indigenous  to  their 
climate,  it  is  indeed  surprising  that  this  disease  has  been  practi- 
cally exterminated  from  the  isthmus  of  Panama  in  so  short  a  time. 

Houses  have  been  entered,  cleansed  and  fumigated  ;  marshes 
drained,  stagnant  water  treated  with  petroleum  and  the  bush  and 
scrub  around  all  dwelHng  houses  cut  away,  until  haunt  and 
breeding  ground  are  alike  denied  to  the  germ-bearing  mosquito. 

Everywhere  one  comes  across  members  of  the  Sanitary  Corps, 
either  lowly  negroes  and  half-bred  Indians  with  cans  of  petroleum 
from  which  they  drop  a  small  quantity  of  oil  on  any  stray  pool 

52 


On  the  IVay  to  the  Southern  Continent 

or  puddle  that  they  come  to  ;  or  the  doctors  ever  vigilant  in  their 
inspections  of  the  most  out-of-the-way  holes  and  corners  in  which 
dirt  or  disease  might  lurk. 

The  large  hospital  at  Colon,  built  upon  piles  over  the  seashore, 
was  erected  originally  by  the  French,  but  has  been  improved  and 
modernised  until  it  is  as  well  equipped  as  any  similar  institution. 
There  has  not  been  a  case  of  yellow  fever  within  its  walls  for  some 
years  now,  and  the  many  screens  that  formerly  were  placed  around 
the  beds  have  all  been  stored  away,  except  one,  left  as  a  specimen 


A   CAMP   AT    BALBOA. 


to  show   visitors   the   methods   employed   in   isolating  patients 
suffering  from  the  dread  disease. 

Colon  has  changed  very  much  during  the  last  ten  years.  The 
fires  of  1885  and  1890  destroyed  a  great  many  of  the  wooden 
buildings  of  which  it  was  formerly  composed  ;  and  the  only  old 
buildings  of  any  pretensions  to  durability  are  the  railway  station 
and  offices,  and  a  church  which  was  built  by  the  pioneers  of  the 
isthmian  route  in  the  middle  of  the  last  century.  Reorganised 
and  rebuilt  for  the  purposes  of  the  Atlantic  terminus  of  the  canal, 
the  most  prominent  features  of  the  town  to-day  are  the  large 
wharves  and  warehouses  for  the  reception  of  the  materials  and 

53 


A  Tour  through  South  America 

supplies  for  the  vast  project.  Laundries,  bakeries,  schools,  court- 
houses and  administration  buildings,  dwellings  for  employees, 
hotels,  stores  and  machine  shops,  have  been  erected  on  this 
erstwhile  mangrove  swamp,  an  undertaking  in  itself  of  great 
magnitude. 

A  new  railwa}^  terminus  has  been  built.  The  trains  w^hich  run 
each  way,  three  times  daily,  across  the  isthmus  to  Panama,  carry 
passengers  and  baggage  to  that  city  and  to  the  numerous  way- 
side stations  along  the  route.  They  are  always  crowded  with 
employees  of  the  Canal  Commission,  and  travellers  on  their 
way,  via  the  Pacific  port,  to  countries  on  the  western  side  of  South 
America. 

Along  the  route  of  the  canal,  w^hich  follows  closely  the  line  of 
the  railway,  a  busy  scene  of  activity  is  presented.  Only  those 
who  have  travelled  backwards  and  forwards  over  the  line  many 
times,  and  have  branched  off  along  the  numerous  side  tracks 
that  have  been  laid  to  carry  the  excavated  earth  to  convenient  or 
necessary  dumping  grounds,  can  be  properly  impressed  with  the 
magnitude  and  difficulty  of  the  operations,  as  evidenced  not  only 
by  the  existing  works,  but  by  continual  reminders  of  the  French 
enterprise,  in  hundreds  of  disused  and  obsolete  trucks,  engines  and 
dredgers  which  lie  half-sunk  in  deep  morasses  or  overgrown  with 
dense  vegetation. 

The  towns  and  villages  that  have  sprung  up  along  the  line  of 
the  canal  have  grown  rapidly  during  the  last  two  or  three  years, 
for  although  the  French  had  erected  over  two  thousand  buildings 
during  their  occupation,  the  new  owners  have  added  so  largely 
to  that  number  that  such  towns  as  Empire,  Culebra,  Las  Cascadas, 
and  Gatum  are  quite  important  and  considerable  centres  of 
industry,  with  schools,  hotels,  court-houses  and  large  dwelling 
houses  scattered  through  them. 

The  headquarters  of  the  Canal  Commission  are  at  Culebra,  and 
it  is  here  also  that  the  largest  excavation  work  is  going  on.  The 
hill  of  Culebra  (which  means  a  "  serpent  ")  is  about  thirty-six  miles 
from  Colon  and  ten  from  Panama,  and  it  was  at  this  point  that 
the  two  French  companies  concentrated  their  efforts.  The  canal 
in  course  of  construction,  and  now  nearing  completion,  is  a  high- 
level  one,  the  amount  of  excavation  being  considerably  less  than 
that  required  if  De  Lesseps'  original  plan  of  a  sea-level  route  had 
been  adhered  to.  . 

54 


On  the  Way  to  the  Southern  Continent 

Thousands  of  persons  every  year  visit  this  famous  cutting,  for 
in  it  the  majority  of  the  great  steam  shovels  are  at  work.  The 
progress  being  made  is  apparent,  for  on  the  long  terraces  the 
positions  of  the  steam  shovels  are  always  altering.  Every  now 
and  then  a  great  cloud  of  smoke  and  dust,  followed  by  a  deafening 
roar,  intimates  that  blasting  operations  are  in  full  swing.  Dump- 
cars  of  the  latest  pattern  have  superseded  the  old  French  ones  ; 
and  the  trains  are  now  composed  of  a  series  of  new  trucks,  coupled 
together,  one  side  of  each  car  being  left  open  with  a  movable 
iron  plate  connecting  it  with  its  neighbour.  A  large  truck  at  on 
end  of  the  train  contains  a  powerful  engine,  which  pulls  a  steel 
plough  along  the  trucks,  emptying  them  of  rock  and  dirt  when 
the  desired  dumping  ground  is  reached.  All  day  these  long  trains 
filled  with  spoil  move  backwards  and  forsvards  through  the 
cutting,  at  the  different  levels  made  for  them  by  the  steam 
shovels.  Gangs  of  labourers  are  kept  busy  laying  the  tracks  to 
enable  the  shovels  to  carve  their  way  into  the  huge  rocky  hill. 
The  problem  of  keeping  up  a  supply  of  men,  fit  to  stand  the  climate, 
has  been  solved  by  importing  on  to  the  scene  Spaniards,  Portuguese, 
Italians,  and  West  Indians,  and  they  have  endured  the  climate 
surprisingly.  It  is  astonishing  that  in  a  shade  temperature  of 
from  89-91  so  much  energy  can  be  displayed.  In  the  rainy 
season  the  conditions  become  very  difficult  to  contend  against. 
The  River  Chagres  rises  and  carries  away  long  tracks  of  the  railway, 
putting  a  stop  to  operations  for  days  at  a  time.  The  rainfall 
amounts  on  an  average  to  about  one  hundred  and  forty  inches  per 
annum,  most  of  it  falling  from  September  to  May.  Yet  the  work 
proceeds  rapidly  in  spite  of  the  rain.  The  houses  built  for  the 
labourers  are  all  supplied  with  drying  rooms,  which  are  very 
necessary  adjuncts  to  any  dwelHng  on  the  isthmus,  for  otherwise 
it  would  be  impossible  to  have  any  dry  clothing. 

But  for  the  bad  climatic  and  health  conditions,  the  Panama 
Canal  would  have  been  finished  long  ere  this,  and  had  theDe  Lesseps 
company  had  the  advantages  of  modern  sanitary  methods,  the 
history  of  the  canal  might  be  different.  In  England  it  has  been 
customary  to  hear  exaggerated  accounts  of  wasted  money  and 
material  in  Panama  until  the  very  name  is  almost  synonymous  with 
fraud  and  deceit.  But  on  the  spot  the  American  engineers  have 
discovered  many  evidences  of  the  enormous  amount  of  genuine 
work  accomplished  by  the  early  companies,  under  depressing 

55 


A  Taur  through  South  America 

circumstances  and  difficulties.  Much  that  they  did  has  been 
utiUsed,  houses,  hospitals,  and  hotels  have  been  put  into  order, 
and  have  proved  of  great  assistance  to  the  present  owners.  The 
task  of  keeping  up  a  working  force  of  thirty  thousand  men,  feeding, 
housing,  and  caring  for  them,  can  only  be  appreciated  by  those  who 
are  acquainted  with  the  tropics.  As  all  nationalities  are  to  be 
found  in  the  vast  army  at  work,  this  means  that  the  labour 
camps  to  accommodate  them  have  to  be  kept  separate  and  the 
food  supplies  carefully  chosen,  in  accordance  with  the  various 
tastes  of  different  nations.  The  world  at  large  is  the  market  in 
which  the  authorities  buy  their  provisions.  It  is  bewildering  to 
the  layman,  and  impossible  for  him  to  understand  the  numerous 


THE    FIRST    LABOUR    CAMP,    GATUM. 

engineering  problems  into  which  the  work  is  divided.  The  rival 
schemes  of  high  level,  low  level,  and  sea  level,  have  been  subjected 
to  the  criticism  of  the  world's  most  expert  engineers  for  over  a 
quarter  of  a  century,  and  although  the  original  plan  of  a  sea  level 
waterway  was  abandoned  by  De  Lesseps,  it  is  still  held  by  many 
experts  to  be  the  only  satisfactory  one.  The  canal  scheme  that  is 
at  present  proceeding  is  one  of  locks.  The  River  Chagres,  which 
rises  in  the  surrounding  hills,  is  subject  to  enormous  floods,  and 
in  the  rainy  season  great  tracts  of  country  on  the  Atlantic  side 
of  the  isthmus  are  under  water.  Villages  and  workshops  are 
swamped,  the  railway  tracks  swept  away  and  disorganisation 
sets  in. 

The  control  of  this  river  has  been  the  subject  of  much  anxious 
thought  and  the  experts'  opinion  on  it  would  fill  volumes.    The 

56 


On  the  Way  to  the  Southern  Continent 

present  plan  entailed  the  building  of  the  great  dam  at  Gatum, 
about  seven  miles  from  the  Atlantic  terminus  of  the  canal.  This 
is  now  nearly  completed  and  fills  a  gap  between  two  ranges  of  hills, 
and  much  of  the  excavated  material  from  the  Culebra  cutting 
(thirty  miles  distant)  was  dumped  here.  As  the  dam  is  about  a 
mile  and  a  quarter  in  length  and  half  a  mile  in  thickness,  over  two 
milHon  cubic  yards  of  material  have  been  used  for  its  construction. 
It  has  great  controlHng  water  sluices  and  locks,  and  completes  the 
range  of  high  ground,  which  will  enclose  an  immense  lake  eighty- 
five  feet  above  the  sea  level,  having  an  area  of  over  one  hundred  and 
seventy  square  miles.  Towns  and  villages  at  present  existing  in  the 
territory  that  extends  from  Gatum  to  Culebra  will  disappear  when 
the  great  dam  is  finished,  and  the  water  is  already  being  allowed 
to  collect  to  form  the  great  lake.  Double  sets  of  locks  have  been 
built  at  Gatum  to  raise  ships  up  from  the  canal,  a  height  of  eighty- 
five  feet.  Vessels  of  one  thousand  feet  in  length  and  one  hundred 
feet  beam  have  been  anticipated,  and  there  will  be  accommodation 
for  such  boats  when  they  shall  be  built  and  present  themselves 
for  entrance  to  the  canal.  The  navigation  channel  through  the 
great  Gatum  Lake  will  have  a  depth  of  at  least  forty-five  feet  and 
a  width  at  bottom  of  one  thousand  feet  until  the  Culebra  cutting 
is  reached,  where  the  width  will  be  diminished  to  two  hundred  feet. 
About  ten  miles  from  the  Pacific  terminus  of  the  canal,  at  Pedro 
Miguel,  the  summit  level  will  cease,  at  a  series  of  locks  which  will 
lower  vessels  thirty  feet,  into  a  channel  five  hundred  feet  in  width 
and  about  one  mile  in  length.  Two  more  locks  at  Miraflores  will 
lower  vessels  to  the  Pacific  sea  level.  The  channel  from  Miraflores 
to  Balboa  (the  Pacific  terminus)  will  have  a  width  of  five  hundred 
feet  right  to  the  open  sea.  Dredging  operations  are  being  carried 
on  for  the  purpose  of  deepening  and  widening  the  channels  at  the 
Pacific  and  Atlantic  entrances.  Large  wharves  for  the  reception  of 
steamers  have  been  erected  at  Balboa,  and  dry  docks  for  repairing 
have  been  constructed.  In  Panama  itself,  although  the  city  does 
not  belong  to  the  United  States  Government,  much  money  and  time 
have  been  spent  in  putting  it  into  a  proper  sanitary  condition,  for 
by  treaty  with  the  Panamanian  Government  the  Canal  Commis- 
sion have  jurisdiction  over  all  matters  connected  with  health. 
This  ancient  Spanish  city  has  now  been  properly  drained  and  a 
good  water  supply  laid  on,  streets  which  were  formerly  quagmires 
in  the  rain}^  season,  have  been  transformed  by  stone  pavements 

57 


A  Tour  through  South  America 

thoroughly  well  laid  by  the  Commission,  but  charged  up  to  the 
Panamanian  Government. 

There  are  over  five  thousand  white  employees  on  the  work. 
Police,  magistrates,  school  officers,  medical  men,  mining  engineers, 
surveyors,  train  conductors,  hotel  managers,  overseers,  foremen, 
clerks,  dispensers,  judges,  mechanics,  detectives,  chemists, 
teachers,  indeed  quite  a  state  has  grown  up  upon  this  tropical 
belt,  which  but  for  the  work  in  hand  would  be  unexplored  bush. 


THE   OLD   CHURCH    ON    THE    ISLAND    OF    TOBAGO,    OFF    PANAMA. 

The  engineering  shops  at  Matachin  have  grown  under  the  com- 
mission to  four  times  the  size  of  the  original  French  buildings,  and 
are  capable  of  accommodating  for  repairs  and  putting  together 
over  twenty  large  locomotives  at  one  time.  Steam  shovels,  cranes, 
trucks,  ploughs,  and  rolling  stock  generally  undergo  repairs  in  these 
shops.  Everywhere  along  the  line  improved,  modern,  up-to-date 
buildings  are  occupied  as  fast  as  they  can  be  erected,  and  the 
social  side  of  life  is  highly  developed.  Dances,  concerts,  and 
amateur  theatricals  are  always  going  forward,  while  of  out-of-door 

58 


On  the  IVay  to  the  Soitthe^m  Continent 

sports  the  national  game  of  baseball  is  easily  first  favourite. 
Everything  is  done  by  the  authorities  to  make  life  on  the  isthmus 
as  pleasant  and  enjoyable  as  possible,  and  very  different  from  the 
early  days  when  necessities  were  difficult  to  obtain  and  luxuries 
impossible.  Ice  is  dehvered  to  all  the  houses  on  the  Canal  Zone 
daily  at  a  small  charge,  and  bread,  vegetables,  meat,  everything 
in  fact  that  a  dainty  mortal  can  desire,  is  easily  obtainable  at  the 
Commission's  Stores,  so  that  in  this  land  of  "  Perpetual  Thirst  " 
there  is  little  of  hardship  and  much  of  pleasure  for  the  workers 
who  have  to  live  exiled  from  home. 

The  Commission  has  made  a  rule  that  every  white  employee 
shall  take  an  annual  holiday  and  spend  it  in  the  United  States, 
so  that  there  is  much  coming  and  going  between  the  States  and 
Panama.  In  fact,  very  few  stay  for  long  and  the  ranks  are 
being  continually  reinforced  with  fresh  recruits.  The  Commission 
have  also  a  splendid  sanatorium  situated  on  the  island  of  Tobago, 
a  few  miles  south  of  Panama.  Here,  amidst  perfect  surroundings, 
the  convalescents  are  nursed  back  to  health  and  strength  and 
tended  with  the  utmost  care.  Even  strangers  who  are  not  in  any 
way  connected  with  the  canal,  avail  themselves  of  this  retreat, 
and  many  Panamanians  make  it  a  holiday  resort.  At  the  foot  of 
Ancon  Hill,  just  outside  the  city  of  Panama,  the  Canal  Commission 
have  built  a  magnificent  hotel  capable  of  accommodating  over 
three  hundred  first-class  guests.  It  was  opened  in  time  to  receive 
President  Roosevelt  when  he  paid  his  memorable  visit  to  the 
isthmus  in  November,  1906,  and  since  then  has  housed  many 
other  distinguished  visitors. 


59 


CHAPTER    V 

Of  the  Labourers  on  the  Isthmus 

THE  most  difficult  problem  that  has  to  be  faced  by  mider- 
takers  of  transit  and  construction  schemes  in  South 
America  is  that  of  labour.  The  natives  of  the  tropical  latitudes 
have  little  inclination  or  incentive  to  give  their  time  and  strength 
to  the  furthering  of  projects  that  are  introduced  into  their 
countries,  and  it  has  always  been  necessary  to  any  enterprise  on 
the  isthmus  requiring  a  large  labour  force  to  import  men  from 
other  places. 

The  first  experiment  was  made  many  years  ago  by  the  early 
Spanish  settlers,  who  found  it  impossible  in  many  places  to 
subdue  the  native  Indians.-  Negroes  from  Africa  were  imported, 
but  many  of  them  contrived  to  escape  from  the  tasks  set  them  by 
their  enterprising  masters,  and  found  their  way  into  the  country 
districts  and  gradually  mixed  with  Indians  they  fell  in  with,  and 
so  introduced  new  blood  into  the  original  stock  of  the  country. 
An  attempt  to  introduce  labour  on  to  the  isthmus  of  Panama 
was  made  by  the  promoters  and  builders  of  the  railway  v.ith 
disastrous  results. 

The  Chinese,  who  prove  so  efficient  as  labourers  in  nearly 
every  other  part  of  the  world,  were  a  great  disappointment,  and 
although  they  are  to  be  found  to-day  on  the  isthmus  in  large 
numbers,  they  are  not  employed  in  any  calling  that  requires 
great  strength  and  endurance. 

The  negroes  who  were  imported  proved  to  be  the  best  avail- 
able labour,  and  ever  since  the  railway  was  established  the 
islands  in  the  Caribbean  Sea  have  furnished  much  of  the. labour 
for  Panama. 

When  the  first  French  company  started  its  operations, 
Jamaicans,  tempted  by  the  high  wages  offered,  flocked  on  to  the 
60 


Of  the  Labourers  07t  the  Isthmus 

scene,  and  when  the  work  was  brought  to  a  standstill  in  1901 
many  of  them  were  left  stranded  upon  the  isthmus,  and  those 
unable  to  obtain  other  employment  were  shipped  back  to  their 
island  at  its  expense.  Many,  however,  remained  and  settled 
upon  small  patches  of  unclaimed  land  and  lived  in  a  primitive 
fashion  without  much  difficulty,  in  a  country  which  furnishes 
abundant  subsistence  to  the  cultivator. 

The  demand  for  labour  again  arose  when  the  U.S.A.  Govern- 
ment restarted  operations,  and  numerous  sources  were  tapped  to 
supply  sufficient  numbers  of  efficient  pick-and-shovel  men. 


A   LABOUR   CAMP   (EVENING),    CANAL   ZONE. 

Naturally  attention  was  turned  in  the  negro's  direction,  for  he 
is  indispensable  when  such  work  is  forward.  Those  who  urge  his 
expulsion  en  masse  from  the  Northern  States  overlook  the  firm 
hold  which  he  has  got  on  the  plantations  of  the  South.  However 
high  racial  prejudice  may  occasionally  rise  against  him,  he  has 
made  himself  absolutely  necessary  to  the  Southern  planter,  who 
would  be  ruined  if  black  labour  were  withdrawn.  Besides,  it  is 
not  a  particularly  easy  task  to  expel  ten  miUions  of  people. 

It  is  interesting  to  note  that  the  nigger  is  far  more  appreciated 
in  South  America  than  he  is  in  the  northern  part  of  the  continent. 
In  Anglo-Saxon  colonies  the  laws  against  the  blacks  have  always 

61 


A  Tour  through  South  America 

been  more  stringent  and  oppressive  than  those  of  Spain,  Portugal, 
and  France.  So  much  is  the  negro  valued  in  Latin  America  that 
many  of  the  Republics  were  unwilling  to  allow  their  black  labour 
to  be  recruited  for  the  canal.  Only  recently  the  Argentine 
Consul  in  Panama  sent  word  to  his  Government  that  fifteen 
thousand  of  the  workmen  on  the  Zone  were  disposed  to  transfer 
themselves  to  the  wheatfields  of  the  South. 

Through  the  action  of  a  Governor  of  Jamaica  in  refusing  to 
allow  negroes  from  that  island  to  go  to  the  isthmus  (unless  upon 
terms  to  which  the  Canal  Commission  found  it  impossible  to  agree) 
other  countries  were  tried,  to  make  up  for  the  loss  of  Jamaica 
as  a  recruiting  ground.  Cuba,  whence  many  of  the  Spanish 
settlers  were  brought,  suggested  to  the  labour  department  that 
Spain  would  be  a  likely  place  from  which  to  obtain  labourers, 
and  many  were  imported  on  to  the  work,  and  proved  the  wisdom 
of  the  choice.  Itahans  also  were  brought,  while  the  Jamaicans 
arrived  in  great  numbers,  although  not  under  any  form  of  contract. 
Barbadians,  Martiniquians,  and  Trinidadians  flocked  in,  but 
all  of  the  negro  labourers  who  are  on  the  work  are  liable  to 
take  a  holiday  frequently  and  return  to  their  native  countries  to 
spend,  in  ostentatious  display,  the  money  they  have  earned. 

These  negroes  of  the  different  islands  exhibit  such  lack  of 
sympathy  with  one  another,  that  the  authorities  are  compelled 
to  house  them  in  separated  camps. 

The  Barbadians  predominate  on  the  isthmus,  probably  because 
theirs  is  the  most  densely  populated  island,  and  they  have  rapidly 
made  themselves  acquainted  with  the  conditions  on  the  Zone, 
settling  down  as  if  it  were  their  native  land. 

The  British  West  Indian  negro  has  a  great  contempt  for  and 
prejudice  against  those  of  his  own  colour  who  speak  the  French, 
Dutch,  or  Spanish  language,  and  whenever  an  altercation  or 
argument  arises  between  negroes  of  the  different  nationalities, 
reference  is  frequently  made  to  the  prowess  and  prestige  or 
weakness  and  decadence  of  the  rival  nations.  This  characteristic 
is  set  out  by  the  old  joke  which  probably  originated  on  the  West 
Coast  of  Africa,  but  has  of  recent  years  been  told  of  the  West 
Indians.  **  Yah,  you  big,  black,  ugly  Frenchman  I  "  a  huge 
Barbadian  yelled  at  a  Martinique  gentleman  of  colour  who  was 
getting  the  better  of  him  in  argument.  "What  we  give  you  at 
Waterloo,  eh  ?  " 
62 


Of  the  Labourers  on  the  Isthmtis 

The  Barbadian  has  generally  appropriated  a  name  illustrious 
by  the  achievements  of  its  original  owner.  A  Mr.  Horatio  Nelson 
introduced  himself  to  me  one  day  near  Gorgona,  and  when  I 
suggested  that  his  was  a  strange  name,  he  assured  me  that  it  was 
quite  a  well-known  one  in  England,  and  that  one  of  his  ancestors 
had  made  it  famous.  And  on  my  still  professing  ignorance  of  it, 
he  was  very  hurt  and  said,  "  You  must  be  Frenchmans." 

The  labourer  from  Barbados  is  a  big,  strong,  impudent  fellow, 
and  has  not  got  the  same  good  name  for  honesty  as  his  Jamaican 
cousin,  although  he  is  undoubtedly  the  better  workman.  But 
the  negroes  who  have  swarmed  in  hordes  to  the  isthmus  are 
reluctant  to  put  forth  all  their  strength  and  energy  in  profitable 
labour. 

They  will  employ  their  hours  of  leisure  in  dancing  till  they 
stream  with  perspiration,  but  they  are  true  artists  in  avoiding 
real  work.  Yet  the  strength  which  they  undoubtedly  possess  is 
often  shown  in  their  moments  of  forget  fulness. 

A  gang  of  negroes  were  engaged  in  removing  long,  heavy  lengths 
of  timber  a  distance  of  about  two  hundred  yards.  After  they  had 
all  gazed  for  some  time  at  the  stack,  they  were  cajoled  by  the 
foreman  into  making  a  start,  which  was  not  accomplished  without 
considerable  palaver,  the  point  of  discussion  being  as  to  whether 
three  men  were  sufficient  to  carry  each  beam. 

Two  of  the  gang,  having  lifted  a  heavy  beam  between  them, 
returned  to  the  discussion  carrying  it  on  their  shoulders  ap- 
parently little  inconvenienced  by  its  weight,  and  stood  for  fully 
ten  minutes  thus  burdened  continuing  the  argument.  After  a 
short  acquaintance  with  them,  their  indolent  ways  and  casual 
manner  become  so  familiar  as  to  excite  little  notice. 

The  quarters  in  which  they  are  housed  are  shut  during  working 
hours,  and  none  are  permitted  to  enter  the  premises  at  night 
until  they  have  produced  evidence  that  they  have  put  in  a  day's 
work.  Should  they  be  unwell,  they  are  examined  by  the  doctor 
at  the  nearest  dispensary  and  treated  for  their  complaint.  If 
only  slightly  indisposed  and  requiring  a  little  more  rest,  they  are 
placed  in  a  building  set  apart  for  the  purpose  and  allowed  to  loll 
about,  read,  smoke,  or  sleep  until  pronounced  fit  to  resume  their 
labours.  In  serious  cases,  of  course,  the  patients  are  at  once 
removed  to  hospital  either  at  Colon  or  Ancon. 

The  accommodation  provided  for  the  labourers  in  the  camps 

63 


A  Tour  through  South  America 

all  along  the  canal  work  have  been  very  severely  criticised  by  a 
coloured  journalist  who  lives  in  Jamaica,  and  who  has  paid  brief 
visits  to  the  isthmus  in  order  to  discover  if  his  fellow  countrymen 
were  receiving  that  attention  and  care  which  he  considered  their 
due. 

Any  evidence  of  labourers'  habitations  in  Jamaica  half  as  good 
as  those  provided  by  the  Canal  Commission  would  be  difficult  to 
obtain,  for  the  miserable  dirty  yards  which  for  the  most  part 
form  the  dwellings  of  the  West  Indian  negroes  in  their  own 
islands,  with  the  .disgusting  huddhng  together  of  animals  and 
human  beings,  cannot  for  a  moment  be  compared  with  the  cleanly 
large  dormitories  fitted  with  iron-framed  bunks  which  are  provided 
for  them  on  the  Zone. 

Due  regard  is  given  to  cubic  air  space  by  the  Health  Depart- 
ment, which  insists  on  five  hundred  feet  for  each  occupant,  whilst 
the  old  tin  cans  and  heterogeneous  rubbish  which  the  nigger  is  so 
fond  of  collecting  and  hoarding  are  rigorously  excluded  from  the 
dormitories,  only  reasonable  belongings  which  will  not  offend 
against  the  comfort  and  health  of  the  inmates  being  admitted. 

The  buildings  are  raised  on  pillars  about  five  or  six  feet  from 
the  ground,  and  the  large  space  underneath  has  to  be  carefully 
inspected  by  the  health  officers,  for,  under  the  pretence  of  utilising 
this  shelter  as  a  store  for  odds  and  ends,  there  is  a  great  danger 
of  its  becoming  a  heaving  rubbish  heap. 

Sidewalks  and  drains  have  been  laid  all  through  the  labour 
camps,  and  little  could  be  done  to  improve  or  better  the  majority 
of  them.  In  the  married  quarters,  placed  at  a  distance  from 
those  occupied  by  single  men,  it  is  more  difficult  to  prevent  the 
tenants  from  indulging  in  their  extraordinary  propensity  for 
hoarding  up  a  miscellaneous  pile  of  articles  of  no  possible  use  or 
value.  If  left  to  themselves,  the  labouring  negroes  neglect  to 
give  much  care  and  attention  to  their  dwellings,  notwithstanding 
that  many  of  them  appear  in  pubhc  on  high  days  and  hohdays 
dressed  in  the  latest  fashions,  displaying  spotless  white  linen, 
and  giving  the  impression  to  casual  beholders  that  they  are  neat 
and  cleanly  in  their  habits. 

The  picturesque  costumes  which  are  worn  by  the  women  from 
Martinique  are  reminiscent  of  the  fashions  that  were  in  vogue 
in  Paris  fifty  years  ago,  while  the  shght  Oriental  touch  which 
the    brightly   coloured   handkerchiefs   tied    round    their    heads 

64 


Of  the  Labourers  on  the  Isthmus 


impart  is  picturesque  and  attractive.  The  material  of  which 
their  gowns  are  composed  has  weird  patterns  and  in  few  other 
communities  is  there  a  variety  of  quaintly  coloured  prints  to 
equal  those  worn  by  the  women  who  hail  from  Martinique. 

All  these  Martiniquian  women  appear  to  be  very  tall,  their 
thin  lithe  bodies,  and  small  heads  accentuating  the  effect,  and 
the  gracefulness  of  their  erect  carriage  and  walk  is  aided  by  the 
long  ample  folds  of  their  walking  skirts,  when  gathered  up  and 
thrown  negligently  over  their  arms. 

There  was  a  great  deal  of  talk  some  little  time  back  about  the 
presence  of  these 
women  on  the  Zone, 
and  allegations  were 
freely  made  that  the 
United  States  Gov- 
ernment were  paying 
their  expenses  to  the 
isthmus,  and  that  the 
purpose  for  which 
they  were  brought 
was  one  that  no 
Government  could 
officially  sanction. 
After  a  great  deal  of 
investigation,  much 
evidence  w^as  col- 
lected, which  went 
to  prove  that  the 
women  whose  moral 
character  had  been 
called    in     question 

were  quite  respectable,  and  were  meritoriously  engaged  as 
domestic  servants  and  washerwomen,  earning  wages  far  in 
excess  of  those  obtainable  in  their  island  home.  Their  presence 
on  the^  Zone  is  doubtless  appreciated  by  many  of  their  fellow 
countrymen,  and  keeps  them  from  growing  homesick,  for  the 
dancings  and  rejoicings  which  they  amuse  themselves  with  on 
holidays  and  Sundays  help  to  encourage  a  spirit  of  contentment. 

Over  a  hundred  and  sixty  affidavits  were  made  by  Martinique 

women  upon  the  isthmus  at  the  beginning  of  the  year  1906,  for 

E  65 


A    TOILET    ON    THE   ZONE. 


A  Tour  through  South  America 

the  purpose  of  refuting  the  charges  which  were  brought  against 
them  by  newspapers  in  the  United  States,  and  the  Governor  of 
the  Canal  Zone  at  the  time,  C.  E.  Magoon,  in  a  letter  to  the 
Secretary  of  War,  stated  that  many  of  the  women  were  much 
alarmed  when  questioned  about  the  articles  that  had  appeared 
against  them,  and  were  apprehensive  lest  they  should  be  de- 
ported back  to  Martinique.  They  most  willingly  gave  evidence 
as  to  their  occupation.  They  were  well  satisfied  with  the  wages 
they  were  earning  and  the  conditions  under  which  they  lived, 
and  all  of  them  protested  strongly  against  the  statement  that 
they  were  "  living  in  sin."  The  marriage  customs  among  all  the 
West  Indian  Islands  differ  from  those  obtaining  in  more  civilised 
communities,  and  to  rigid  moralists  of  northern  latitudes  may 
seem  rather  lax  and  casual.  Few  of  the  women  who  subscribed 
to  the  affidavits  put  forward  were  able  to  write,  only  twenty- 
seven  out  of  the  whole  number  being  able  to  sign  their  testi- 
monies, the  other  hundred  and  forty  all  making  a  cross.  All  the 
names  betrayed,  as  one  would  expect,  the  French  origin  of  their 
owners.  Some  of  them  were  ingeniously  fanciful  and  almost 
ludicrous. 

Such  names  as  "  Susering  Johnabatist,"  "  Danshale  Alptired,'' 
"  Catherine  Maxemen,"  "  Vuss  Marie,"  sound  rather  odd,  and 
the  alliteration  of  names  hke  "  Pauline  S'Paul,"  "  Dennis  Denir," 
"  Philomen  Philibert,"  "  Alcina  Alcide,"  is  doubtless  intentional, 
whilst  a  few  like  "  Gabriel  Paralo,"  "  Fluce  Bernadette," 
'.'  Eleonore  "  have  a  romantic  and  not  unpleasant  sound. 

But  the  Martiniquians  are  not  alone  in  possessing  extraordinary 
names.  I  remember  looking  through  the  register,  kept  in  an 
official's  ofhce  in  one  of  the  West  Indian  islands,  and  was  amazed 
at  the  extraordinary  names  written  in  it.  I  asked  how  it  was 
possible  for  such  inappropriate  appellations  to  have  been  selected 
by  negroes  who  surely  could  hardly  have  seen  them  before.  The 
official  produced  a  large  old-fashioned  dictionary,  and  explained 
that  when  parties  came  to  register  the  birth  of  a  child  and 
were  at  a  loss  for  a  name,  he  would  read  out  a  Ust  of  long  words, 
the  most  unsuitable  of  which  was  sure  to  be  selected  by 
the  parents,  regardless  of  absurdity.  Fancy  a  small  black 
child  with  little  clothing  or  dignity  having  to  support  such  a 
name  as  "  Bathybius  Johnston."  Luckily,  the  registered  name 
is  forgotten  in  a  day  or  two,  and  unless  a  copy  is  written  out 
66 


Of  the  Labourers  on  the  Isthmus 

the  child  usually  grows  up  accustomed  to  hear  itself  called  by 
some  commonplace  and  familiar  nickname. 

During  the  year  1906-7  there  were  over  twenty-four  thousand 
labourers  employed  upon  the  isthmus  by  the  Canal  Commission, 
and  most  of  these  were  imported  from  the  neighbouring  West 
Indian  Islands  and  Italy  and  Spain,  as  it  was  found  difficult  to 
obtain  the  necessary  labour  from  among  the  natives. 

The  country  life  of  Panama  is  simple,  and  it  requires  little 
effort  to  supply  the  necessities  of  life.  The  poorer  classes  of 
Panamanians  who  dwell  in  the  country  are  a  mixture  of  Spanish, 
Indians,  and  negroes — all  living  a  more  or  less  primitive  life. 
Marriages  are  very  rare  amongst  this  class,  for  the  women  prefer 
to  remain  independent  of  their  mates,  dreading  the  ill  treatment 
which  is  usually  meted  out  by  the  lords  of  creation  to  wive%who 
cannot  escape  from  their  bondage.  The  more  common  form  of 
family  life  is  one  in  which  the  man  and  woman  form  a  partner- 
ship, which  can  easily  be  terminated  by  mutual  agreement,  and 
when  a  parting  occurs  a  division  of  the  household  belongings  and 
assets  takes  place  even  down  to  the  children. 

Their  houses  are  of  the  simplest  construction,  consisting  of  a 
few  trees  stuck  into  the  ground  roofed  over  with  palm  or  other 
suitable  leaves.  Some  of  the  huts  constructed  in  this  manner 
have  an  extra  room  in  the  roof,  which  is  approached  by  a  roughly 
constructed  ladder.  The  sides  or  walls  of  the  huts  are  made  of 
bamboo  split  and  woven  into  a  kind  of  rough  matting,  although 
some  have  walls  made  of  the  bamboos  placed  side  by  side,  the 
intervening  spaces  being  filled  in  with  clay.  Partitions  devised 
in  the  same  waj^  are  made  inside  some  of  the  dweUings.  As  one 
would  imagine,  the  furniture  contained  in  most  of  these  houses 
is  of  the  simplest  and  most  elementary  description. 

Hammocks  are  used  instead  of  beds  for  sleeping  in,  and  stumps 
of  trees  serve  for  tables  and  chairs.  The  food  consists  of  frigoles, 
(a  kind  of  bean),  bananas,  plantains,  and  yams — which  form 
the  vegetable  and  fruitarian  portion  of  their  repasts,  while  for 
meats  they  have  so  large  a  variety  to  choose  from  that  there  is 
no  need  for  them  to  complain  of  the  monotony  of  their  fare. 
Monkeys  and  the  large  lizard,  the  iguana,  make  favourite  dishes. 
Wild  turkeys,  ducks,  red  deer,  the  wild  hog  or  peccary  all  find  a 
place  on  their  menus,  and  they  have  the  art  which  all  countries 
seem  to  possess  of  brewing  intoxicating  beverages,  the  kind  they 

67 


A  Tour  through  South  America 

make  being  fermented  from  the  sap  of  a  species  of  the  palm. 
This  custom  dates  from  a  very  early  time,  long  before  the  Spaniard 
first  set  foot  upon  these  shores.  Tobacco  has  been  in  use  among 
the  Indians  of  America  for  ages  (the  followers  of  Columbus  were 
astonished  to  see  the  natives  puffing  out  clouds  of  smoke  from 
their,  mouths),  and  the  leaf  of  the  soothing  weed  grows  around 
them  at  every  turn.  A  little  skill  in  hunting  and  hardly  any  in 
cultivating  are  all  that  is  necessary  to  maintain  existence  in  this 
fertile  country,  and  until  the  native  is  convinced  that  there  are 
things  in  life  worth  possessing  which  at  present  he  has  not  got, 
he  will  never  see  the  advantage  of  toiling  and  sweating  to  earn 
money  he  knows  not  how  to  spend,  or  to  live  a  life  he  could  not 
enjoy. 

Tl^s  he  spends  his  days  in  a  country  that  is  to  him 

"A  fair  Utopian  mead 

Where  his  throat  is  never  dusty, 
And  tobacco  grows  a  weed." 

The  negroes  from  the  West  Indian  Islands  have  been  so  long  in 
contact  with  the  higher  forms  of  civilisation  that  they  have 
acquired  some  of  the  habits  which  belong  to  the  white  races,  and 
although  there  is  not  in  any  of  the  countries  which  they  hail 
from  the  compelling  force  of  hunger  to  make  them  work,  the 
customs  of  dress  and  living  which  they  have  acquired  induce 
them  to  labour,  in  order  to  secure  the  artificial  embellishments 
they  have  come  to  consider  necessary  to  existence.  The  isthmus 
and  the  canal  work  have  been  a  happy  hunting  ground  for  the 
negro  who  wished  to  enrich  himself  ;  and  ever  since  the  French 
Canal  Company  started  operations,  it  has  been  almost  a  habit 
with  many  of  the  Jamaicans  and  Barbadians  to  go  there  and 
work  for  a  time  to  earn  high  wages. 

The  negroes  on  the  isthmus  noticed  with  increasing  alarm  the 
gradual  importation  of  peons  from  other  countries — Spain  and 
Italy  in  particular — and  felt  that  they  were  quickly  losing  the 
secure  position  hitherto  occupied.  I  have  watched  a  group  of 
nigger  labourers  standing  outside  the  wharves  at  Colon  when  five 
hundred  Spanish  labourers  were  disembarking  from  a  Royal  Mail 
steamer,  and  although  their  faces  were  as  impassive  as  statues 
their  conversation  betrayed  their  apprehensions. 

The  labourers  recruited  from  all  parts  of  Spain  have  settled 
down  upon  the  isthmus  ;  many  of  them  are  at  work  in  the 
68 


A    STREET    IN    THE    OLD    QUARTERS,    PANAMA. 


A  Tour  through  South  America 


Culebra  cut  and  elsewhere.  There  can  be  no  two  opinions  as  to 
their  superiority  to  the  negro  as  pick-and-shovel  men,  and  the 
foremen  have  no  trouble  in  keeping  them  at  their  tasks,  as  these 
men  have  a  little  common  sense  and  intelligence,  as  w^ell  as  brute 
strength. 

They  are  employed  in  clearing  away  the  bush,  cutting  down 
undergrowth,   laying   raihvay   tracks,   and   attending  upon   the 

clearing  of  the  dump 
trains,  and  it  is  sur- 
prising how  quickly 
they  get  accustomed 
to  their  new  sur- 
roundings. At  first 
there  was  a  little 
difficulty  in  supply- 
ing them  with  the 
kind  of  food  they 
desired  and  were  used 
to,  and  the  negro 
cooks  who  waited 
upon  them  were  apt 
to  steal  some  of  the 
rations  served  out 
and  give  them  short 
measure.  I  remember 
seeing  a  body  of 
about  forty  Spaniards 
advance  to  the  head- 
quarters office  at 
Culebra  to  lodge  a  complaint  about  their  food. 

The  two  ringleaders  had  with  them  an  old  tin  can  containing 
water  that  was  very  dirty  and  a  piece  of  meat  that  was  certainly 
far  from  being  choice.  They  had  come  about  five  miles  to  see 
someone  in  authority  and  air  their  grievance.  It  was  pointed 
out  to  them  that  because  they  w-ere  in  possession  of  some  stagnant 
water  and  putrid  beef  it  w^as  no  evidence  that  it  had  been  served 
to  them  as  food,  and  they  were  sent  back  with  a  promise  that 
their  camp  should  be  properly  inspected.  It  turned  out  that 
the  deputation  had  been  organised  with  the  express  purpose  of 
getting  rid  of  a  Barbadian  cook  against  w^hom  they  had  a  grudge 
70 


WATER-BABIES   BY   A   RIVER-SIDE. 


Of  the  Labourers  on  the  Isthmus 

They  had  hunted  round  the  district  for  the  dirtiest  water  they 
could  find,  and  had  been  fortunate  in  coming  across  a  piece  of 
stinking  meat  that  had  been  thrown  out  of  some  wayside  shack. 
So  much  regard  for  their  comfort  had  been  displayed  by  the 
officials  that  there  was  a  tendency  on  the  part  of  these  Spanish 
labourers  to  presume  upon  it  by  bringing  all  their  natural  cunning 
into  play. 

On  Sundays  and  holidays  groups  of  the  Spaniards  congregate 
in  Panama.  They  look  very  picturesque  with  their  great  balloon- 
like trousers  and  shirts  of  many  colours,  and  their  habit  of  carry- 
ing their  coats  and  jackets  on  their  shoulders  like  a  mantle.  They 
have  not  yet  adopted  the  lighter  styles  of  clothing  usually 
worn  in  the  tropics,  but  they  do  not  seem  to  suffer  unduly  from 
the  heat.  Many  of  them  have  very  fierce,  villainous  expressions, 
and  it  may  well  be  that  the  Spanish  Government  spends  less  in 
support  of  its  jails  and  prisons  since  so  many  of  its  subjects  have 
found  employment  upon  the  isthmus. 

There  is  a  disposition  on  the  part  of  these  native  recruits  to 
the  labour  forces  of  the  Zone  to  settle,  and  not  a  few  of  them 
send  home  for  their  wives  and  families.  It  does  not  seem  at  all 
unreasonable  to  suppose  that  the  example  of  their  forefathers 
will  be  followed  by  many  of  them,  and  it  certainly  would  not  be 
an  undesirable  thing  to  have  a  fresh  influx  of  new  blood. 

The  rapid  increase  of  private  building  operations  in  Panama 
and  Colon,  and  in  the  many  smaller  towns  along  the  line,  has 
given  the  labourer  opportunities  for  selling  his  services  to  a 
variety  of  emploj^ers,  and  for  years  to  come  there  will  be  a  large 
demand  for  skilled  workmen  as  well. 


71 


CHAPTER   VI 

Canal  Projects :  Old  and  New 

THE  transcendent  egotist  who  declared  that  had  he  planned 
the  universe  he  would  have  made  health  and  not  disease 
infectious,  would  also  surely  have  included  in  his  schemes  the 
omission  of  the  narrow  neck  of  land  which  joins  the  two  American 
continents.  For  ever  since  its  discovery,  the  isthmus  of  Darien 
has  been  but  an  obstacle  that  men  have  wished  to  overcome- by 
cutting  through  it  a  waterway  to  connect  the  two  oceans  which 
it  divides.  Whether  Cortez  ever  penetrated  so  far  south  as  Darien 
or  no,  certain  it  is  that  he  searched  diligently  for  a  passage  to  the 
Pacific,  declaring  this  to  be  the  one  thing  above  all  others  he  was 
most  desirous  of  meeting  with. 

For  the  best  of  all  reasons,  the  persistent  attempts  to  discover 
what  was  called  the  "  The  Secret  of  the  Straits  "  proved  un- 
successful, and  it  remained  for  human  energy  and  ingenuity  to 
create  what  nature  had  failed  to  provide. 

As  far  back  as  the  beginning  of  the  sixteenth  century,  when  the 
newly  founded  city  of  Panama  was  fast  becoming  a  flourishing 
emporium  for  Pacific  trade,  a  proposition  was  put  forward  by 
Angel  Saavedra  for  a  canal  across  the  isthmus,  and  thirty  years 
later  Antonio  Galvao  was  suggesting  no  fewer  than  four  different 
canal  routes. 

Spain  was,  however,  jealously  guarding  her  new  colonies  and 
any  information  concerning  them,  fearing  an  awakened  interest 
on  the  part  of  other  powers.  To  such  an  extent  did  this  policy 
prevail  that,  according  to  one  authority,  the  mere  proposal  to  open 
up  navigation  between  the  two  oceans,  or  to  explore  the  River 
Atrato  with  that  object,  was  punishable  with  death.  The  Spaniards 
themselves  possessed  neither  the  skill  nor  the  perseverance  to 
carry  out  such  a  work  as  the  excavation  of  a  canal,  and  dreaded 
72 


Canal  Projects :  Old  and  New 

the  undertaking  of  such  a  project  by  some  more  enterprising 
nation. 

They  reHed  upon  ignorance  as  a  means  of  prevention,  and 
appealed  to  the  superstition  of  the  age  by  declaring  that  the 
disturbing  of  what  was  a  design  of  nature  would  undoubtedly 
result  in  the  vengeance  of  Heaven  on  anyone  attempting  such 
a  work. 

The  reports  of  the  gold  to  be  found  in  this  region  attracted  the 
buccaneers,  and  led  to  their  exploring  the  country  to  no  small 
extent. 

It  can  readily  be  understood  that  the  fame  of  their  exploits  and 


AN    OLD   CHURCH    AND    BUILDINGS,    PANAMA. 

their  success  in  acquiring  rich  treasure  by  no  means  accorded 
with  the  policy  of  His  Majesty  of  Spain  who,  in  1685,  closed  down, 
by  royal  decree,  the  gold  mines  on  account  of  their  being  such  an 
attraction  to  the  pirates,  inducing  them  to  undertake  the  transit 
from  the  sea  of  the  north  to  the  sea  of  the  south,  to  the  prejudice 
of  the  pubhc  cause. 

When,  however,  the  power  of  Spain  began  to  decline  and  her 
hold  over  her  colonies  gradually  relaxed,  a  quickened  interest 
cNTOse  in  the  Panama  trade  route,  whilst  the  ever-increasing  wealth 
pouring  across  the  isthmus  on  mules'  backs  or  men's  shoulders, 
continually  emphasised  the  necessity  for  better  facilities  of  transit. 
By  the  end  of  the  eighteenth  century  it  had  come  to  be  recognised 
on  all  sides  that  the  interests  of  international  commerce  demanded 
the  opening  up  of  a  line  of  communication  across  this  strip  of  land  ; 

73 


A  Tour  through  South  America 

and  the  construction  of  other  canals  such  as  the  Caledonian  and 
the  Forth  and  Clyde,  gave  an  impetus  to  the  idea  of  a  waterway 
from  the  Atlantic  to  the  Pacific  at  a  favourable  point. 

The  early  years  of  the  next  century  saw  the  first  of  a  number 
of  explorations  with  the  object  of  determining  the  most  favourable 
point,  and  in  1827  Bolivar,  the  liberator  of  Colombia,  Ecuador, 
and  Peru  from  the  yoke  of  Spain,  commissioned  Captain  Lloyd 
and  M.  Palmare  to  survey  the  isthmus.  It  seems  but  natural  that 
these  two  explorers  should  start  from  Panama  and  follow  the  old 
road  to  Cruces.  From  that  point  they  worked  their  way  down  the 
River  Chagres  to  within  a  few  miles  of  where  it  empties  itself  into 
the  Atlantic. 

Their  observations  led  them  to  the  opinion  that  a  canal  scheme 
was  premature,  and  for  immediate  purposes  they  recommended  a 
combined  rail  and  water  route,  by  means  of  a  short  canal  from 
Limon  Bay  to  the  Chagres  River,  and  the  use  of  its  tributary  the 
Trinidad,  to  a  spot  favourable  for  a  junction  whence  a  railway 
could  be  established  to  the  Pacific  coast  either  at  Panama  or 
Chorrera.  It  is  curious  how  subsequent  events  have  endorsed 
the  ideas  of  these  two  men,  and  that  developments  have  followed 
so  closely  upon  the  lines  they  suggested,  by  the  construction,  in 
the  first  instance,  of  a  railway  the  whole  distance  from  Limon  Bay 
to  Panama,  and  then  by  the  present  undertaking  of  a  canal  to 
follow  almost  the  same  route. 

Whether  Bolivar  purposed  carrying  out  the  ideas  of  the  pioneers 
he  sent  forth,  or  was  merely  calculating  possibilities,  was  never 
known  ;  for  by  one  of  those  frequent  internal  rearrangements 
which  afflict  South  American  repubHcs,  New  Granada  separated 
from  Colombia  and  formed  itself  into  an  independent  state. 

Thirty  years  before  Bolivar  had  instigated  a  survey  for  canal 
purposes  in  the  Central  American  isthmus.  Napoleon  I  had 
ordered  a  survey  of  the  Isthmus  of  Suez  with  the  idea  of  con- 
necting by  canal  the  Red  Sea  and  the  Mediterranean.  Possibly 
this  was  the  origin  of  the  fascination  which  canal  building  seems 
ever  since  to  have  exercised  over  certain  minds  in  France. 

The  New  Granada  State  had  not  been  long  in  existence  as  a 
separate  national  entity,  ere  a  French  company  succeeded  in 
obtaining  from  its  Government  a  concession  for  the  construction 
of  highways,  railroads,  or  canals,  from  Panama  to  the  Atlantic 
coast, 

74 


Canal  Projects :  Old  and  New 

The  surveys  and  plans  made  by  this  company  during  the 
following  years  were  characteristically  optimistic  and  included  a 
claim  to  have  discovered  a  route  which  at  no  point  would  reach  a 
higher  altitude  than  thirty-seven  feet  above  the  mean  level  of 
the  Pacific  Ocean.  Such  was  the  interest  aroused  in  France  by 
this  alleged  discovery,  that  M.  Guizot,  at  that  time  Minister  of 
Foreign  Affairs,  despatched  Napoleon  Garella  to  verify  the 
company's  statements  by  an  independent  survey.  His  survey 
and  report  thereon  were  so  much  at  variance  with  the  statements 
of  the  Salomon  Company,  and  his  inability  to  discover  the  pass 
through  the  divide  (which  they  asserted  to  exist)  had  such  an 
effect  on  the  prospects  of  the  company  as  led  to  its  dissolution. 

Garella,  however,  agreed  largely  with  Lloyd's  conclusions, 
particularly  as  to  the  desirability  of  making  Limon  Bay  the 
Atlantic  terminus  of  a  canal ;  and  his  proposition  was  for  a 
summit  level  waterway,  reached  on  either  side  by  a  series  of  locks. 

Lloyd's  observations  had  also  been  proved  reliable  by  the 
confirmation  of  Mr.  Wheelwright,  whose  survey  was  made  on 
behalf  of  the  Pacific  Steam  Navigation  Company  trading  between 
Panama  and  the  ports  on  the  Pacific  coast.  At  this  time  the 
Atlantic  port  of  the  isthmus  was  Chagres,  at  the  mouth  of  the 
river  of  the  same  name,  to  and  from  which  the  trade  was  conducted 
by  the  vessels  of  the  Royal  Mail  Steam  Packet  Company,  who 
reopened  a  fine  of  communication  which  had  been  practically 
abandoned  since  the  Spanish  occupation  of  the  isthmus.  Anxious 
to  improve  their  route  and  add  security  to  the  transit  of  merchan- 
dise across  the  isthmus,  this  company  instructed  their  colonial 
superintendent,  Captain  Liot,  r.n.,  "to  obtain  such  information 
as  might  be  useful  in  guiding  the  directors  to  a  sound  opinion  as 
to  the  practicability  of  influencing  the  transit  of  passengers, 
specie,  etc.,  between  Europe,  North  America,  and  the  Pacific, 
making  the  same  pass  through  the  Isthmus  of  Panama  instead  of 
by  the  route  round  Cape  Horn." 

Captain  Liot  spent  a  month  in  exploring  the  isthmus  in  com- 
pany with  Mr.  McGeachy,  the  Crown  Surveyor  of  Jamaica. 
On  his  return  to  England  he  was  deputed  by  a  number  of  com- 
mercial magnates  in  the  City  of  London  to  ascertain  whether  the 
British  Government  of  the  day  were  willing  to  afford  such  guaran- 
tees and  immunities  as  would  secure  a  transit  company  against 
rmdue  risk,   should  such  a  corporation  decide  to  establish  a 

75 


A  Tottr  throtigh  South  America 

macadamised  carriage  road,  or  railroad,  from  Porto  Bello  to 
Panama.  The  Government  discouraged  the  idea,  and  the  project 
was  abandoned  ;  but  Captain  Liot  subsequently  published  his 
manuscript  containing  his  impressions  and  views,  and  these  are 
interesting  reading,  were  it  only  for  his  striking  prediction  that, 
for  at  least  half  a  century  to  come,  a  railway  or  carriage  road  were 
the  only  two  propositions  that  would  pay.  The  interest  aroused 
at  this  time  in  the  idea  of  inter-oceanic  communication  is  evidenced 
by  the  Bulwer-Clayton  Treaty  of  1850,  by  which  the  Governments 
of  Great  Britain  and  the  United  States  pledged  themselves  to  do 
all  in  their  power  to  faciUtate  the  construction  of  a  canal,  and  to 
maintain  its  neutrality  when  constructed.  During  the  early 
fifties  the  attention  of  American  engineers  was  more  particularly 
directed  to  two  canal  routes  farther  north,  one  of  which  was  across 
the  Isthmus  of  Tehuantepec,  by  way  of  the  Coatzacoalcas  River. 

Not  unknown  to  Cortez,  this  route  had  been  surveyed  in  1842  by 
Moro,  under  the  direction  of  Jose'  de  Garay,  whose  scheme  for  a 
canal  in  this  district  involved  a  waterway  of  one  hundred  and 
fifty  miles  in  length. 

As  the  maximum  altitude  to  be  reached  was  estimated  at  656 
feet  (De  Lesseps  says  975  feet)  above  sea-level,  Garay's  plan 
necessitated  the  construction  of  from  one  hundred  to  one  hundred 
and  fifty  locks,  and  it  was  calculated  that  the  passage  from  sea  to 
sea  would  occupy  a  period  of  twelve  days  to  accomplish.  Within 
the  last  few  years  the  Tehuantepec  Railway  has  been  constructed, 
and  is  now  open  for  traffic.  Should  this  prove  as  successful  as  is 
anticipated,  there  is  little  likelihood  that  anything  more  will  be 
heard  of  a  canal  scheme  here  to  compete  with  the  one  approaching 
completion  in  Panama.  The  other  route,  in  the  northern  part  of 
the  American  isthmus,  was  by  way  of  Lake  Nicaragua,  and  had 
been  investigated  as  early  as  1779  by  Manuel  Gahsteo,  who  passed 
an  opinion  unfavourable  to  a  canal  project  in  this  locality 
However,  some  British  agents  at  Belize,  who  accompanied 
Galisteo's  expedition  in  a  private  capacity,  sent  home  glowing 
accounts  to  their  Government ;  creating  such  an  impression  that 
when,  a  year  later,  war  broke  out  between  England  and  Spain, 
Captain  Horatio  Nelson  organised  an  expedition  to  acquire  pos- 
session of  the  Nicaraguan  territory. 

Although  he  was  successful  as  far  as  the  Spaniards  were  con- 
cerned, the  climate  proved  an  irresistible  enemy,  and  few  of  the 

76 


Canal  Projects :  Old  aitd  New 

expedition  survived  to  return  to  Jamaica.  Nelson  himself  only 
escaped  with  life,  after  a  long  and  severe  illness. 

Forty  years  after\\^ards  John  Bailey,  sent  out  by  an  English 
corporation,  surveyed  the  Nicaragua  route,  and  made  an  able 
report,  in  which  he  projected  a  canal  by  way  of  the  San  Juan 
River  and  Lake  Nicaragua,  to  the  River  Lajas,  and  thence  to  San 
Juan  del  Sur  on  the  Pacific  coast. 

The  Americans  have  always  looked  with  favour  on  a  scheme  for 
a  canal  here,  owing  to  the  fact  that  Lake  Nicaragua,  which  is 


A   STRETCH    OF   THE   CHAGRES    RIVER. 

one  hundred  and  ten  miles  long  by  thirty-five  miles  broad,  offers 
navigation  for  a  considerable  portion  of  the  route  to  be  traversed. 
This  lake,  situated  some  hundred  and  twenty- five  feet  above  the 
level  of  the  sea,  is  fed  by  about  forty  different  streams,  and  empties 
itself  by  means  of  the  River  San  Juan  into  the  Gulf  of  Mexico. 

Difficulties,  however,  exist  in  the  cataracts  by  which  the  course 
of  this  river  is  broken.  Strangely  enough  one  of  these  is  the 
handiw^ork  of  those  inhabitants  of  the  country  who,  to  block  the 
river  against  incursions  by  the  buccaneers,  sank  vessels  in  it  and 
threw  in  fallen  trees  and  masses  of  rock  to  form  a  barrier.  To 
canalise  the  San  Juan  would  involve  the  construction  of  seven 
or  eight  locks,  and  this  was  part  of  the  proposal  of  Colonel  Childs, 
who  in  1852  surveyed  the  route  for  the  purposes  of  a  canal. 

77 


A  Tour  through  South  America 

In  addition  to  the  utilisation  of  this  river  and  the  fifty-five  miles 
of  available  navigation  on  the  lake,  he  estimated  that  a  cutting 
would  have  to  be  made  for  a  distance  of  forty-seven  miles,  the 
total  length  of  the  route  being  one  hundred  and  ninety-four  miles, 
and  the  time  occupied  in  traversing  it  being  from  four  to  six  days. 
Further  locks,  to  the  number  of  twenty-eight,  were  embodied  in 
his  scheme,  together  with  piers  and  embankments  at  each  end  of 
the  lake,  and  finally  the  creation  of  harbours  both  on  the  Atlantic 
and  Pacific  coasts. 

So  little  was  realised  of  the  extent  to  which  shipbuilding  would 
develop  that  this  proposed  canal  was  only  to  be  of  a  depth  of 
from  seventeen  to  twenty  feet,  and  capable  of  accommodating 
vessels  of  under  1999  tons  burden. 

At  the  same  time  that  Colonel  Childs  was  carrying  on  his  survey 
in  Nicaragua,  an  expedition  under  Mr.  Lionel  Gisborne  was 
traversing  the  Darien  in  the  neighbourhood  of  the  Savana  River, 
to  verify,  on  behalf  of  an  English  syndicate,  the  observations  and 
representations  of  Dr.  Edward  Cullen,  an  enthusiast  who  urged 
the  construction  of  a  canal  from  the  Gulf  of  San  Miguel,  by  way  of 
the  Savana  River,  to  Caledonia  Bay,  the  site  of  the  ill-fated 
Scottish  colony. 

Between  the  undoubtedly  excellent  natural  harbours,  which 
exist  both  at  the  Pacific  and  Atlantic  ends  of  this  route,  the 
distance  across  the  isthmus  is  but  thirty-nine  miles,  and  only 
about  thirty  miles  of  actual  cutting  would  be  necessary.  - 

According  to  Gisborne's  report,  no  engineering  difficulties  stood 
in  the  way  of  making  a  cut  of  sufficient  capacity  to  form  an 
uninterrupted  navigation  free  from  locks  from  sea  to  sea. 

The  course  of  the  projected  canal  was  a  perfectly  straight  one, 
and  the  greatest  depth  of  cutting  required  was  estimated  to  be 
about  150  feet  for  a  distance  of  two  miles.  It  was  claimed  that 
no  dredging  or  deepening  of  the  River  Savana  would  be  required, 
or  any  other  work,  such  as  the  construction  of  dams  or  locks,  be 
necessary. 

A  concession  from  the  Government  of  New  Granada  was 
obtained,  and  a  company  formed  and  provisionally  registered. 
There  was  nothing  to  be  done  but  to  make  a  simple  cut  some 
twenty-five  or  thirty  miles  long,  thirty  feet  deep  and  one  hundred 
and  forty  feet  wide  at  bottom,  and  all  at  an  estimated  cost  of 
only  £12,000,000  ;    and  yet  the  scheme  fell  through. 

78 


Canal  Projects :  Old  and  New 

The  glowing  accounts  of  both  Cullen  and  Gisborne  as  to  the 
suitableness  of  the  locality,  and  the  absence  of  difficulty  in  the 
carrying  out  of  the  work,  cause  considerable  wonder  as  to  the 
reason  for  the  abandonment  of  the  scheme  ;  for  not  till  twenty 
years  later  did  Commander  Selfridge  prove  the  statements  of 
Cullen  and  Gisborne  to  be  erroneous,  when  in  the  course  of  an 
able  survey  of  this  region,  he  showed  that  a  canal  through  it  would 


INTERIOR   OF    A    SHACK    ON 


necessitate  a  tunnel  of  ten  miles  in  length.  At  least  there  was  no 
lack  of  public  interest  in  the  question  of  piercing  the  isthmus, 
for  farther  south  in  the  Darien  three  particular  routes  were  being 
investigated.  The  first  of  these,  by  the  way  of  the  rivers  Atrato 
and  San  Juan,  had  aroused  hope  on  account  of  a  report  common 
amongst  the  natives  that  there  w-as  in  the  divide,  between  these 
two  rivers,  a  low  depression  which  the  Indians  used  as  a  portage 
for  their  canoes  when  travelling  from  sea  to  sea. 

Indeed  there  was  a  tradition  of  a  waterw^ay  having  been  cut 

79 


A  Tour  through  South  America 

through  the  short  distance  separating  the  higher  reaches  of  these 
two  rivers,  but  this  was  never  verified.  A  second  Atrato  route 
was  by  using  that  river  in  conjunction  with  the  River  Bando, 
whilst  still  a  third  proposed  to  cross  from  the  Bay  of  Cupica  to 
the  River  Atrato. 

A  further  contribution  to  the  possibilities  of  the  Darien  region 
in  respect  of  a  canal  was  the  discovery  in  1865,  by  M.  de  Lacharme, 
of  a  passage  from  the  Rio  Paya,  an  affluent  of  the  Tuyra,  to  the 
Rio  Caquiri,  which  flows  into  the  Atrato  ;  and  his  consequent 
survey  of  the  rivers  Tuyra  and  Paya.  But  it  would  be  difficult 
even  to  mention  the  numerous  surveys,  plans,  and  projects  that 
evidenced  the  eager  desire  which  existed  to  gain  the  immense 
advantages  that  would  accrue  to  the  commercial  world  by  the 
opening  of  ship  canal  communication  between  the  Atlantic  and 
Pacific  Oceans. 

In  a  report  by  Admiral  Davis  of  the  U.S.  Navy,  made  in  1867, 
he  enumerates  no  fewer  than  nineteen  separate  canal  projects, 
besides  seven  proposed  railroads,  in  the  isthmus  between  Tehuan- 
tepec  and  the  Atrato  River.  But  the  question  of  the  location  for 
a  canal  was  most  naturally  settled  by  the  construction  of  the 
Panama  Railway,  which,  in  spite  of  extreme  difficulties,  was 
completed  in  1855  and  opened  for  goods  and  passenger  traffic 
between  Colon  and  Panama. 

I  have  described  elsewhere  the  construction  of  this  line  and  the 
immediate  causes  which  contributed  thereto.  The  facilities  for 
transit  which  it  offers  could  not  but  render  its  route  the  most 
fitting  one  for  the  making  of  a  canal  across  the  isthmus  ;  but  the 
railway  had  been  in  operation  for  sixteen  years  before  recent 
developments  with  regard  to  canal  construction  began  with  a 
series  of  international  geographical  congresses,  the  first  of  which 
was  held  in  Antwerp  in  the  year  1871. 

The  question  of  a  ship  canal  across  the  American  isthmus  was 
discussed  at  this  congress,  and  the  project  recommended  to  the 
attention  of  the  great  maritime  powers  and  of  the  scientific 
societies  throughout  the  world. 

Four  years  later,  at  a  second  Congress  in  Paris,  the  question 
again  came  up  for  consideration.  At  the  sittings  of  this  Congress 
there  was  present  Ferdinand  de  Lesseps,  who  was  then  at  the 
height  of  his  reputation,  having  a  few  j^ears  previously,  in  spite  of 
difficulties  and  oppositions,  fulfilled  all  his  predictions  and  carried 
80 


Canal  Projects :  Old  and  New 

to  a  successful  issue  his  scheme  for  a  canal  from  Suez  to  Port  Said. 
Little  wonder  that  his  eloquence  had  great  weight  !  He  told  the 
Congress  how  all  the  authors  of  the  various  projects  for  connecting 
the  Atlantic  with  the  Pacific  had,  up  to  that  time,  made  the 
mistake  of  committing  themselves  to  a  canal  with  locks  of  fresh 
water. 

Arguing  from  his  triumph  at  Suez,  he  declared  that  none  but  a 
sea-level  canal  should  be  attempted,  and  that  such  a  canal  was 
alone  likely  to  meet  the  wants  of  international  commerce. 

Again  a  resolution  was  passed,  urging  that  facihties  should  be 
given  for  the  construction  of  a  canal  in  this  part  of  the  world  ; 


THE   OLD    PANAMA    RAILWAY    TRACK. 


but  resolutions,  being  merely  expressions  of  opinion,  somewhat 
resemble  good  intentions  in  vagueness  of  destination.  However, 
an  active  step  forward  was  taken  by  the  appointment  of  a  com- 
mittee to  further  the  project. 

As  a  result  of  the  enthusiasm  that  had  been  aroused,  a  syndicate 
at  once  sprang  into  existence  for  the  purpose  of  carrying  on 
exploration  in  Central  America,  ostensibly  with  the  view  of 
discovering  the  most  suitable  route,  but  no  doubt  with  the  prime 
object  of  making  as  much  profit  as  possible  from  any  concessions 
it  might  acquire  there. 

Lieutenant  Lucien   Napoleon   Bonaparte  Wyse  (whose  name 

was  surely  enough  to  ruin  any  enterprise)  was  despatched  to  the 

isthmus,  and  landed  there  in  1876.     He  was  brother-in-law  to 

F  81 


A  Tour  through  South  America 

General  Turr,  who  controlled  the  syndicate,  and  seems  to  have 
thoroughly  understood  the  object  of  his  mission,  for  he  not  only 
made  a  survey,  but  also  an  estimate  of  the  cost  of  a  canal. 

Whether  the  survey  was  in  any  way  a  rehable  one  is  open  to 
question,  but  there  can  be  no  doubt  that  the  estimate  was  very 
wide  of  the  mark,  although  he  confidently  claimed  that  his  figures 
would  be  found  to  be  within  ten  per  cent  of  the  actual  cost,  whicli 
alas  !   has  not  yet  been  ascertained. 

But  most  important  of  all  doubtless  from  the  syndicate's 
standpoint,  he  succeeded  in  obtaining,  from  the  Government  of 
what  had  by  this  time  become  the  United  States  of  Colombia,  a 
concession  granting  the  exclusive  privilege  of  constructing  a 
canal  between  the  two  oceans  through  the  territory  of  that 
republic  ;  reserving  always  the  neutrality  of  such  canal  and  its 
terminal  ports,  and  respecting  the  rights  of  the  Panama  Railroad 
Company. 

Thus  did  the  "  giving  of  facilities,"  urged  by  the  resolution  of 
the  Congress  of  1875,  degenerate  into  the  "  granting  of  an  ex- 
clusive monopoly  "  to  a  speculative  syndicate  three  years  later. 
In  the  following  year  the  International  Congress  again  met  in 
Paris  to  consider  proposals  for  an  interoceanic  canal. 

M.  de  Lesseps  presided  at  this  Congress,  and  five  different 
schemes  were  discussed  ;  these  being  the  proposals  for  canals  at 
Tehuantepec,  Nicaragua,  Panama,  San  Bias  and  Atrato,  already 
described. 

The  three  last-named  all  fell  within  the  scope  of  the  "  exclusive 
rights  "  granted  to  the  Turr  Syndicate,  and  from  the  first  the 
Congress  favoured  the  scheme  of  Lieutenant  Wyse,  which,  at  their 
request,  he  modified  so  as  to  substitute  a  cutting  for  the  proposed 
tunnel  at  the  divide.  The  Panama  scheme  was  now  the  only  one 
before  the  Congress  which  provided  for  a  canal  without  a  tunnel 
and  without  locks,  and  by  a  majority  of  seventy-eight  votes  against 
eight  (twelve  delegates  abstaining  from  voting)  it  was  affirmed 
that : 

*'  The  cutting  of  an  interoceanic  canal  of  uniform  level,  a  work 
so  desirable  in  the  interest  of  commerce  and  navigation,  is  practic- 
able, and  the  maritime  canal,  in  order  to  meet  the  indispensable 
facihties  of  access  and  utilisation  which  ought  to  be  offered  by  a 
passage  of  this  kind,  should  be  made  from  the  Gulf  of  Limon  to 
the  Bay  of  Panama,." 
82 


Canal  Projects :  Old  and  New 

As  was  most  natural,  De  Lesseps  was  urged  to  undertake  the 
direction  of  the  work,  and,  although  at  his  advanced  age  he  might 
fairly  have  rested  on  his  laurels  won  at  Suez,  this  veteran  agreed 
to  conduct  another  enterprise,  fraught  with  international  advan- 
tage and  blessings  to  posterity. 

That  he  underestimated  the  difhculties  attending  the  task  has 
been  abundantly  demonstrated,  but  nothing  should  lessen  our 
admiration  for  the  courage  and  enthusiasm  with  which  he  assumed 
the  responsibility,  and  the  untiring  energj^  he  displayed.  To 
whomsoever  may  ultimately  belong  the  honour  of  completing  the 
canal,  to  Ferdinand  de  Lesseps  will  always  be  due  the  credit  of 
having  initiated  the  work. 

Following  upon  the  report  of  the  Congress,  there  was  issued  on 
23  July,  1879,  the  prospectus  of  a  company  called  "  La  Compagnie 
Universelle  du  Canal  Interoceanique  de  Panama,"  but  more 
generally  and  conveniently  known  as  the  Panama  Canal  Company. 

The  suggested  capital  was  400,000,000  francs,  or  £16,000,000,  to 
consist  of  800,000  shares  of  500  francs  or  £20  each.  Of  these 
790,000  were  to  be  issued  to  the  public,  whilst  10,000  were  reserved 
for  the  original  concessionaires.  It  was  proposed  to  call  up  only 
125  francs  (£5)  per  share  at  first,  and  interest  at  the  rate  of  5  per 
cent  per  annum  was  to  be  paid  during  construction  on  the  actual 
money  received. 

Even  an  estimated  revenue  of  90,000,000  francs  annually  from 
the  canal  when  completed  was  not  sufficient  inducement  to  the 
public,  and  the  issue  failed  ;  only  about  one-tenth  of  the  capital 
offered  being  subscribed  for. 

M.  de  Lesseps,  accompanied  by  a  technical  commission  of 
engineers,  one  of  whom  was  Heer  J.  Dircks,  of  the  Amster- 
dam Canal,  visited  the  isthmus  ;  and  their  opinion  was  that  the 
canal  could  be  constructed  for  about  thirty-four  millions  sterling 
and  be  completed  in  eight  years.  Subsequently  De  Lesseps 
undertook  a  tour  through  the  United  States,  England,  Holland, 
and  Belgium,  and  a  number  of  towns  in  France,  lecturing  on 
behalf  of  his  scheme  ;  and  it  is  difficult  to  doubt  the  hona  fides  of 
this  indefatigable  octogenarian,  or  his  imphcit  faith  in  the  achieve- 
ment of  his  design,  especially  when  it  is  remembered  that  he  is  said 
to  have  sunk  309,000  francs  of  private  fortune  in  the  venture. 

The  assistance  of  journaHsts  and  financial  groups  was  called  in, 
or  perhaps  it  would  be  more  correct  to  say  bought  in,  and  such 


A  Tour  through  South  America 


enthusiasm  was  worked  up  that  when  next  offered  the  capital 
asked  for  was  subscribed  more  than  twice  over. 

But  a  false  step  had  been  taken,  and  henceforth,  instead  of 
selfish  and  ambitious  considerations  being  secondary  to  the 
grand  ideal  of  cutting  from  ocean  to  ocean  a  highway  of  nations 
for  the  benefit  of  the  commerce  of  the  world  at  large,  a  sordid 
profit-grasping  spirit  seems  to  have  possessed  the  promoters  and 
the  pubhc  to  whom  they  so  successfully  appealed. 

Early  in  January  of  the  year  1881 
a  party  of  engineers  left  Paris,  and 
by  the  end  of  February  were  at 
work  on  the  scene  of  operations. 

The  canal  planned  by  the  De 
Lesseps  company  followed  very 
closely  the  route  of  the  existing 
railway  between  Colon  and  Panama, 
and  was  to  be  about  fifty-four  itliles 
in  length. 

It  was  to  be  constructed  on  a  sea- 
level  plan,  with  the  bottom  28  feet 
below  the  mean  level  of  the  oceans. 
At  the  bottom  the  width  of  the  canal 
was  to  be  72  feet,  and  at  the  surface 
of  the  water  160  feet,  except  in  the 
section  through  the  divide  atCulebra, 
where,  although  with  depth  of  2Q-J 

JAMAICAN  LABOURER  ON  THE  ZONE     <•       ,  ,  .,,,        4.  n      4. j.  r  i 

feet  and  a  width  at  bottom  oi  nearly 
79  feet,  the  surface  width  narrowed  almost  to  one-half  and  would 
be  only  92  feet.  The  two  great  difficulties  of  an  engineering 
nature  which  confronted  the  undertaking  were  the  excavation  of 
the  cut  through  the  divide  at  Culebra  and  the  control  of  the 
Chagres  River  with  its  tributaries,  which  during  the  rainy  season 
are  subject  to  extraordinary  floods,  the  waters  having  been  known 
to  rise  as  much  as  38  feet  in  as  many  hours. 

For  the  control  of  this  river  the  French  company  proposed 
to  construct  a  huge  reservoir  at  Gamboa,  the  dam  being  so 
designed  as  to  retain  the  floods  of  the  river  and  allow  the  water  to 
escape  gradually.  From  the  start  the  management  of  the  whole 
undertaking  was  characterised  by  unnecessary  expenditure  and 
extravagance.    Not  only  does  this  apply  to  the  financial  opera- 

84 


Canal  Projects :  Old  and  New 


tions  in  Paris,  but  also  to  the  work  carried  on  in  the  isthmus 
itself. 

An  artificial  peninsula  was  constructed  at  Colon,  on  which 
were  erected  expensive  residences.  The  Director-General  main- 
tained a  state  that  was  almost  regal,  receiving  the  handsome 
salary  of  £10,000  a  year,  with  £10  per  day  for  travelHng  expenses. 

All  the  officials  w^ere  highly  paid,  and  lived  in  residences  which 
were  surrounded  by  spacious  ornamental  grounds  laid  out  at 
superfluous  expense. 

But  the  labourers  imported  from 
Jamaica  and  other  West  Indian 
islands  were,  on  the  other  hand, 
housed  so  badly  and  with  such  lack 
of  all  proper  sanitary  precautions 
that  sickness  and  disease  quickly 
devastated  their  ranks. 

The  Panama  Railway  had  been 
acquired  at  almost  three  times  its 
market  price.  The  defence  after- 
wards made  for  this  was  that  an 
understanding  with  the  railway 
company  was  essential,  as  the  shares 
were  held  in  few  hands,  and  the 
proprietors  of  these  were  becoming 
exorbitant. 

Losses  occurred  in  September,  1882, 
when  the   railway   and   works   were 
partly     destroyed     by     earthquake, 
whilst  three  years  later,  in  a  rebellion 
suffered  severe  damage  by  fire. 

At  the  end  of  1884  little  of  the  actual  work  of  excavation  had 
been  accomphshed,  but  the  preliminary  plans  had  been  prepared 
and  soundings  taken.  The  line  of  route  had  also  been  cleared 
of  tropical  vegetation,  d^^^ellings  and  barracks  erected  for  the 
employees,  hospitals  built,  and  large  supplies  of  materials  of  all 
kinds  were  at  command. 

Twenty  contracting  firms  had  the  work  pieced  out  amongst 
them.  At  this  time  the  Panama  Canal  Company  had  raised  and 
received  close  upon  £19,000,000,  of  which  sum  it  had  expended 
about  £14,750,000,  too  heavy  a  proportion  of  which  had  gone  in 

85 


BARBADIAN  LABOURER  ON  THE  ZONE 


^hich  broke  out,  Colon 


A  Totir  through  South  America 

preliminary  expenses.  A  further  sum  of  £5,500,000  was  raised  by 
the  issue  of  4  per  cent  bonds,  but  a  year  later  only  about  one- 
tenth  of  the  actual  work  of  excavation  had  been  accomplished. 

This  state  of  affairs  gave  rise  to  a  great  deal  of  adverse  criticism, 
and  the  adoption  of  a  high-level  canal  with  locks  began  to  be 
thought  of  as  a  less  costly  and  more  expeditious  scheme — for  it  had 
now  become  so  extremely  difficult  for  the  company  to  raise  money, 
that  successive  reductions  had  to  be  made  in  the  amount  of 
proposed  excavation  work.  It  was  even  seriously  proposed  to 
build  a  lock-level  canal,  with  a  summit-level  of  one  hundred  and 
ten  feet  above  mean  ocean-level ;  and  it  was  only  on  the  re- 
organisation of  the  enterprise  and  the  extension  of  the  time  limit 
that  a  modification  was  made  to  a  plan  with  a  summit-level  of 
sixty-one  feet.  But  the  slow  progress  of  the  work  and  the  con- 
tinual alteration  of  the  plans  and  details,  combined  with  the 
enormous  sums  of  money  already  swallowed  up,  had  shaken 
public  confidence.  Financial  aid  from  at  least  two  large  banking 
institutions  and  from  syndicates  formed  for  the  purpose  was 
obtained  at  a  ruinous  price.  By  the  end  of  1887  the  funds  of  the 
company  had  again  sunk  very  low,  and  it  was  estimated  that  a 
further  £12,000,000  would  be  required  within  a  year. 

De  Lesseps,  who  had  paid  another  visit  to  the  isthmus  and 
sailed  three  miles  up  the  Chagres  Kiver,  still  declared  that  the 
work  would  be  ultimately  completed,  and  obtained  the  sanction 
of  the  French  Parliament  for  the  issue  of  lottery  bonds.  This 
sanction  was  not  obtained  without  considerable  expenditure  ; 
one  Cabinet  Minister  stipulating  for  a  million  francs,  half  to  be  paid 
when  he  introduced  the  Bill,  and  the  balance  when  the  Bill  passed. 

The  originator  of  the  lottery  idea  received  three  miUion  francs, 
chiefly  because  he  was  a  big  speculator  on  the  Bourse  and  his 
hostility  would  have  been  mischievous.  The  necessary  amount  of 
subscriptions  for  the  lottery  bonds  not  being  forthcoming,  the 
company  suspended  payment  on  14  December,  1888. 

Although  not  unexpected,  the  news  caused  a  severe  shock  in 
Paris,  and  the  whole  situation  became  so  serious  that  a  meeting  of 
the  French  Cabinet  was  held  to  consider  the  best  course  to  be 
adopted.  In  order  to  gain  time  and  to  prevent  wild  speculation 
it  w^as  proposed  to  permit  the  company  to  suspend  for  three 
months  only,  and  a  Bill  for  this  purpose  was  introduced,  but  was 
rejected  by  256  votes  to  181. 
86      . 


Canal  Projects :  Old  and  New 

M.  de  Lesseps  immediately  resigned  and  proposed  liquidation. 
The  excitement  in  Paris  was  intense,  and  strangely  enough,  in 
spite  of  the  fact  that  millions  of  pounds  had  been  lost  and 
thousands  of  shareholders  ruined,  the  anger  of  the  crowds  vented 
itself,  not  on  De  Lesseps,  but  on  the  Government  of  the  day.  The 
Boulangists  seized  upon  the  opportunity  to  attempt  a  political 
revolution,  and  the  cheers  of  the  populace  were  divided  between 
De  Lesseps  and  Boulanger. 

At  a  great  meeting  of  shareholders  which  was  held  it  was  agreed 
to  forego  the  payments  of  coupons  and  annuities  until  the  opening 
of  the  canal  and  the  raising  of  more  capital.  A  resolution  pro- 
fessing continued  confidence  in  the  veteran  De  Lesseps  was  also 
passed. 

But  the  attempt  to  form  a  new  company  for  the  completion  of 
the  canal  failed,  owing  to  the  lack  of  subscriptions,  and  the 
Panama  Canal  Company  went  into  liquidation,  the  work  being 
gradually  suspended. 

The  Panama  Canal  Bill,  to  promote  the  continuance  of  the 
work,  was  now  passed  by  both  chambers,  and  a  Commission  of 
Inquiry  was  appointed. 

The  Commission,  which  visited  the  isthmus  with  De  Lesseps 
in  1880,  had  estimated  that  the  canal  could  be  completed  at  a 
cost  of  843  millions  of  francs,  whilst  up  to  the  time  of  the  suspen- 
sion of  the  company  no  less  a  sum  than  1329  mihions  of  francs 
was  expended.  The  report  of  the  Commission  of  Inquiry,  when 
issued,  stated  that  a  further  sum  of  900  milUons  of  francs  would 
be  required  to  complete  the  canal. 

Meanwhile  a  great  fire  occurred  at  Colon,  in  which  the  railway 
buildings  and  a  large  part  of  the  town  were  destroyed,  and 
although  an  arrangement  was  come  to  with  the  Colombian 
Government  for  an  extension  by  t^n  years  of  the  time  in  which 
the  canal  might  be  completed^  the  scheme  totally  collapsed  and  a 
legal  investigation  was  proposed. 

In  consequence  of  the  official  liquidator's  report  and  the  painful 
disclosures  which  took  place  at  the  sittings  of  the  Committee  of 
Inquiry,  a  prosecution  was  commenced  against  M.  Ferdinand  de 
Lesseps,  his  son  Charles  de  Lesseps  and  other  directors,  for  bribery 
and  corruption.  After  a  trial  lasting  nearly  a  mqjith,  during 
which  the  speech  of  the  counsel  for  the  defence  occupied  four 
whole  days,  M.  de  Lesseps  and  his  son  were  sentenced  to  five 

87 


A  Tour  through  South  America 

years'  imprisonment,  whilst  the  other  directors  were  fined  and 
sentenced  to  two  years'  imprisonment.  The  news  of  the  sentence 
caused  a  great  sensation,  many  thinking  it  savoured  of  harshness. 
Ferdinand  de  Lesseps  was  lying  ill  at  his  country  house  during 
the  whole  of  the  trial,  and  although  the  news  of  the  verdict  was 
telegraphed  to  Madame  de  Lesseps,  it  was  carefully  kept  from 
the  aged  invalid.  Two  days  afterwards  Charles  de  Lesseps  paid 
a  visit  to  his  father  and  had  a  most  affecting  interview  with  hini. 
On  his  son's  departure  the  old  man  relapsed  into  a  condition  of 
unconscious  stupor.  He  never  regained  vigour  or  recovered 
from  the  shock  which  the  failure  of  his  plans  and  the  scandals 
attached  to  that  failure  occasioned.  Great  care  had  to  be  taken 
lest  news  from  the  outside  world  of  the  second  trial  of  his  son 
and  his  colleagues  (resulting  in  fines  and  imprisonment)  should 
reach  the  enfeebled  intellect  and  shattered  frame  and  snap  life's 
thread ;  and  it  is  said  that  the  papers  of  the  previous  years 
recounting  the  progress  of  the  work  on  the  isthmus  were  read  to 
him  as  if  of  current  issue.  Through  two  years  of  careful  nursing 
and  watching  his  life  was  prolonged  till  on  7  December,  1894, 
in  his  ninetieth  year,  there  passed  away  one  who,  in  spite  of 
the  clouds  that  overshadowed  the  close  of  his  career,  remains 
one  of  the  most  illustrious  of  Frenchmen.  He  was  neither  an 
engineer  nor  a  financier,  but  had  such  magnetic  personality  and 
persuasive  eloquence  as  enabled  him  to  enlist  the  co-operation 
of  practical  men  whom  he  inspired  with  his  own  enthusiasm,  and 
his  reputation  outlives  the  jealousy  and  intrigue  that  brought 
about  his  ruin,  for  his  name  is  indelibly  inscribed  on  the  roll  of 
fame. 

The  Official  Receiver  appointed  to  administer  the  affairs  of 
the  Panama  Canal  Company  was  faced  with  a  grave  responsi- 
bility. It  was  his  paramount  duty  to  safeguard,  as  far  as  possible, 
the  interests  of  the  shareholders  by  saving  from  the  wreck  any- 
thing that  might  remain  of  their  investment.  The  principal 
asset,  however,  was  the  work  already  accomphshed  at  so  great 
a  cost,  and  the  value  of  this  was  necessarily  contingent  on  the 
completion  of  the  enterprise.  On  the  other  hand  the  experience 
of  the  company,  with  regard  to  health  and  labour  difficulties,  the 
ever-varying  estimates  as  to  cost  and  time  for  completion,  the 
continual  alterations  as  to  the  detail  of  the  work,  and  the  par- 
ticular level  at  which  it  was  best  to  construct  the  canal ;  and 
88 


A  Tour  through  South  America 

above  all  the  enormous  amount  of  money  absorbed  for  apparently 
so  little  return,  all  tended  to  prevent  the  pubhc  from  further 
financial  venture  in  the  scheme.  By  the  aid  of  special  legislation, 
and  by  dint  of  dexterous  compromise,  most  of  the  lawsuits  which 
had  been  instigated  against  the  company  were  settled,  and  the 
claims  of  a  number  of  its  creditors  and  bondholders  successfully 
resisted.  But  none  of  the  persons  shown  to  have  made  large 
pickings  out  of  Panama  money  evinced  any  inclination  to  refund, 
although  an  ex-Minister  of  the  French  Government  is  understood 
to  have  shed  tears  in  confessing  to  a  bribe  of  375,000  francs. 

The  Republic  of  Colombia  granted  an  extension  of  time  for  the 
purpose  of  the  organisation  of  a  new  company  and  the  completion 
of  the  canal,  and,  although  on  a  very  reduced  scale,  the  work  was 
still  carried  on. 

Towards  the  close  of  the  year  1894  a  new  company  was  formed 
upon  entirely  commercial  lines  and  having  no  connection,  alliance, 
or  relation  whatever  with  any  Government  except  such  as  were 
established  by  the  concession  held  from  the  Republic  of  Colombia. 
The  board  of  directors  was  an  entirely  new  one  and  was  composed 
of  gentlemen  having  no  official  relation  with  the  old  Panama 
Company. 

Pursuant  to  judicial  sale  authorised  by  the  French  Court,  the 
new  company  became  the  sole  owner  of  all  the  canal  works,  plant, 
material,  concessions  and  other  property  of  the  old  company. 
Deciding  not  to  be  bound  by  the  conclusions  arrived  at  from  the 
surveys  of  the  old  company,  the  new  board  of  directors  resolved 
to  examine  and  study  anew  all  the  questions  involved,  the  most 
recent  improvements  in  material  and  the  advances  made  in 
engineering. 

They  therefore  appointed  an  International  Technical  Com- 
mission, composed  of  fourteen  members,  seven  of  whom  were 
eminent  French  engineers,  and  of  the  other  seven  (experts  of 
different  nationalities)  four  had  been  particularly  connected  with 
well-known  canal  undertakings.  The  investigations  of  this 
Commission  w  ere  carried  on  during  many  months,  and  the  question 
was  studied  in  all  its  details — technical,  climatic,  physical, 
geological  and  economic. 

It  was  not  till  1898  that  their  report  was  issued,  and  in  it  they 
suggested  a  canal  of  forty-six  miles  in  length  from  ocean  to  ocean, 
with  a  system  of  locks,  four  on  each  slope  of  the  divide.  All  the 
90 


Canal  Projects :  Old  and  New 

locks  were  to  have  a  rock  foundation  and  double  lock-chambers, 
and  the  time  of  passage  from  ocean  to  ocean  was  to  be  less  than  a 
day.  They  maintained  that  nothing  in  the  physical  conditions  on 
the  isthmus  would  prevent  a  change  to  a  sea-level  canal  should 
such  be  deemed  desirable  in  the  future. 

They  found  that  two-fifths  of  the  work  on  the  canal  had  been 
actually  constructed,  and  that  the  remaining  three-fifths  was  in 
a  fair  way  to  completion,  as,  during  the  last  few  years,  three  or 
four  thousand  workmen  on  an  average  had  been  employed  in 
working  on  the  canal. 

The  existence  and  operation  of  the  railroad  greatly  facilitated 
the  work  of  construction,  and,  whilst  the  two  greatest  difficulties 
were  the  control  of  the  Chagres  River  and  the  excavation  of  the 
Culebra  cut,  nothing  had  been  planned  that  was  not  fully 
justified  by  practical  experience. 

For  the  control  of  the  floods  of  the  Chagres  River  it  was  pro- 
posed to  construct  two  great  artificial  lakes,  one  at  Bohio  and  the 
other  at  Alhajuela,  and  not  at  Gamboa,  the  site  selected  for  a  dam 
by  the  old  company.  With  regard  to  the  cutting  at  Culebra,  the 
difliculty  lies  principally  in  transporting  the  excavated  material 
to  the  dumps,  and  in  effecting  the  transportation  as  rapidly  as  will 
keep  pace  with  the  efficiency  of  the  excavating  machines. 

About  the  time  that  the  report  of  this  Technical  Commission 
made  its  appearance,  pubhc  sentiment  in  America  had  been 
greatly  aroused  in  favour  of  an  interoceanic  canal  under  American 
control,  and  general  opinion  favoured  the  Nicaragua  route.  In 
anxiety  lest  a  rival  scheme  should  be  initiated  just  at  the  time 
when  the  New  Panama  Company  was  about  to  appeal  to  the 
great  financiers  of  the  world  for  monetary  support,  the  board 
of  directors  sent  to  the  President  of  the  United  States  the  report 
of  their  Commission  and  a  letter  drawing  his  attention  to  the 
state  of  the  work  and  the  prospects  of  the  new  company.  It  was 
fully  realised  that  should  the  American  Government  decide  to 
construct  a  waterway,  investors  w^ould  be  deterred  from  backing 
a  private  enterprise  which  could  not  commercially  compete  with 
a  national  undertaking,  and,  further,  should  a  Government 
undertaking  be  commenced,  the  Panama  Canal  would  be  greatly 
retarded  if  not  prevented  by  the  difficulty  of  securing  the  requisite 
labour. 

The  American  Senate  being  engaged  in  considering  the  advisa- 

91 


A  Tour  through  South  America 

bility  of  supporting  the  Maritime  Canal  Company  in  its  Nicaragua 
project,  the  New  Panama  Canal  Company  managed  to  secure  a 
hearing,  at  which  its  position  was  fully  explained  and  an  offer 
made  to  re-incorporate  the  company  under  American  law. 

The  upshot  was  that  the  President  was  authorised  to  make  a 
thorough  investigation  as  to  the  best  route  for  a  canal  which 


THE   CHURCH    AT   CHAGRES. 


should  be  under  the  control  of  the  United  States  and  the  absolute 
property  of  that  nation. 

This  led  to  the  appointment  of  the  first  Isthmian  Canal  Com- 
mission, who  proceeded  to  ascertain  upon  what  terms  the  property 
and  rights  of  the  New  Panama  Canal  Company  might  be  acquired 
by  the  United  States.  The  company  could  hardly  submit  a 
definite  figure  to  a  body  which  had  no  authority  either  to  accept 
or  reject  its  offer,  but  submitted  a  tentative  proposal  to  sell  and 
transfer  its  canal  property  to  the  United  States  for  $109,141,500. 
92 


Canal  Projects :  Old  and  New 

The  Commission  promptly  assessed  the  value  at  $40,000,000  and 
submitted  a  report  favouring  the  Nicaragua  route.  On  this 
becoming  known  in  Paris  the  directors  of  the  company  at  once 
resigned,  and  at  a  general  meeting  of  stockholders  it  was  resolved 
to  accept  the  Commission's  estimate. 

This  surrender  was  practically  forced  upon  the  company  by  the 
American  Government,  as  the  threat  to  construct  a  canal  at 
Nicaragua  meant  death  to  any  hopes  of  raising  sufficient  extra 
capital  for  the  completion  of  the  Panama  Canal.  A  telegram  was 
sent,  offering  to  sell  out  all  assets,  rights,  and  interests  to  the  only 
possible  purchaser  at  that  purchaser's  own  figure  of  $40,000,000. 
At  once  the  Commission  issued  a  supplementary  report,  that 
under  the  altered  conditions  the  most  feasible  and  practical  route 
for  an  isthmian  canal  under  the  control,  management  and  owner- 
ship of  the  United  States  was  the  Panama  route. 

The  scheme  for  beating  down  the  New  Panama  Canal  Company 
in  its  price  having  proved  successful.  Congress  passed  what  is 
commonly  known  as  the  Spooner  Act,  which  authorised  the 
President  to  acquire  the  property  of  the  Canal  Company  for  a 
sum  not  exceeding  forty  millions  of  dollars,  to  acquire  the  neces- 
sary territory  from  the  Republic  of  Colombia,  and  to  proceed  with 
the  excavation,  construction,  and  completion  of  the  canal. 

The  same  Act,  however,  authorised  the  President  to  proceed 
with  the  Nicaraguan  scheme  should  he  fail  in  acquiring  the  Panama 
property. 

At  the  same  time  the  Hay-Herran  Treaty  was  negotiated  with 
the  Republic  of  Colombia,  its  object  being  to  secure  to  the  United 
States  the  privilege  of  constructing  a  canal  through  the  Isthmus 
of  Panama.  The  Colombian  Government  failed  to  ratify  this 
treaty,  and,  at  the  instigation  of  some  person  or  persons  unknown, 
a  bloodless  revolution  was  accomplished  whereby  Panama  became 
an  independent  republic.  This  having  occurred,  the  United 
States  immediately  concluded  with  the  new  State  the  Hay- 
Varilla  Treaty,  by  which  the  United  States  guaranteed  to  main- 
tain the  independence  of  the  new  Republic  of  Panama,  receiving 
in  return  the  concessions  necessary  for  the  construction,  mainten- 
ance, operation,  sanitation  and  protection  of  the  canal,  also  a  zone 
of  territory  ten  miles  in  width,  extending  five  miles  on  either  side 
of  the  centre  line  of  the  canal,  and  a  group  of  small  islands  in  the 
Bay  of  Panama.     The  price  of  the  concession  was  $10,000,000 

93 


A  Tour  throngh  South  America 

gold  to  be  paid  down,  and  an  annual  payment  of  $250,000  gold 
beginning  nine  years  after  the  date  of  the  ratification  of  the  treaty. 

The  way  was  now  clear  for  the  acquisition  of  the  Canal 
Company's  property.  Three-fourths  of  the  purch5.se  money 
Was  transmitted  by  gold  shipments,  and  it  took  two  months  to 
accomplish  this  prudently  and  safely  and  without  disturbing 
financial  conditions.  The  other  fourth  was  conveyed  through 
the  ordinary  medium  of  exchange,  but  all  the  documents  were 
delivered  and  possession  given  the  moment  the  United  States 
Government  paid  over  the  money  to  the  bankers  in  New  York 
who  had  undertaken  to  effect  the  transmission. 

The  canal  is  to  be  ready  for  traffic  in  191 5,  although 
rumours  are  afloat  that  the  official  opening  may  take  place 
at  an  earlier  date.  Much  depends,  however,  upon  causes  over 
which  even  the  resourcefulness  of  a  great  nation  has  no  con- 
trol. Slides  in  the  Culebra  Cut  have  worried  both  the  French 
and  American  engineers,  and  have  given  much  extra  labour. 
There  are  twenty-seven  in  all,  and  an  area  of  one  hundred  and  fifty 
acres  is  affected.  The  Cucaracha  slide  has  necessitated  the  removal 
of  an  extra  two  milHon  cubic  yards  of  "  dirt,"  and  it  is  still  active. 
Altogether  over  nine  million  yards  of  extra  excavation  have  been 
caused  by  these  natural  movements. 

The  Isthmus  of  Panama  lies  in  the  earthquake  zone,  and  within 
the  last  one  hundred  years  many  shocks  have  been  experienced. 
rt  is  always  pointed  out,  however,  by  engineers  that  as  the  flat 
arch  in  the  old  church  of  Santo  Dominic  has  stood  for  two  hundred 
and  fifty  years  without  being  affected,  the  severity  of  the  earthquake 
shocks  of  the  past  could  not  have  been  serious,  and  no  trouble  is 
anticipated  from  seismic  tremors.  Industry,  patience,  and  money 
have  accomplished  much,  and  there  is  no  doubt  that  the  canal 
is  nearing  completion.  Great  developments  are  expected  when 
it  is  opened,  and  many  that  are  quite  unexpected  are  certain 
to  take  place.  It  is  the  intention  of  the  Canal  Commission  to 
Americanise  the  Canal  Zone.  The  majority  of  workers  at  present 
in  the  district  will  no  longer  be  welcome  when  the  work  is  com- 
pleted. At  present  there  seems  to  be  an  impression  abroad  that 
the  authorities  intend  to  repatriate  labourers  brought  there 
under  contract  as  soon  as  their  task  is  done,  and  that  foreigners 
will  be  deported  as  soon  as  their  services  can  be  dispensed  with. 
These  will  be  the  prehminary  steps  towards  the  establishment 

94 


Canal  Projects :  Old  and  New 

of  an  American  Colony.  This  strikes  one  as  rather  drastic  treat- 
ment at  first,  but  on  second  thoughts  it  is  clear  that  the  American 
Government  cannot  tolerate  an  idle  lot  of  bush-squatters  along 
their  territory ;  for  one  thing,  the  expense  of  keeping  the  health 
conditions  good  would  be  too  great.  The  undesired  labourers  will 
have  to  seek  other  quarters.  It  is  probable  that  the  West  Indies 
will  get  a  large  number  of  them  ;  others  may  find  an  opening  for 
their  services  in  Colombia  and  the  other  repubhcs  further  south, 
who  can  all  do  with  them.  The  Zone  will  be  a  military  reservation, 
and  the  canal  will  be  fortified.  This  was  made  clear  by  Mr.  Roose- 
velt at  Omaha  in  September,  1910,  when  he  stated  that  in  his 
opinion  the  canal  would  be  opened  in  January,  1915,  at  latest, 
and  perhaps  by  the  end  of  1913.  With  regard  to  the  fortifications, 
he  said  that  the  United  States  Government  were  bound  in  honour  to 
fortify  their  great  work  so  as  effectively  to  guarantee  its  neutrality 
and  to  prevent  its  being  used  against  them.  To  refuse  to  fortify  it 
he  asserted  would  mean  the  abandonment  of  the  Monroe  doctrine. 
He  also  pointed  out  that  one  of  the  national  advantages  the  United 
States  gained  by  the  waterway  was  the  doubling  of  the  strength 
of  their  navy.  Forts  are  already  in  course  of  construction  on  the 
islands  lying  at  the  mouth  of  the  Pacific  entrance  and  on  the 
shores  of  Limon  Bay.  When  schemes  of  great  magnitude  are 
accomplished  certain  interests  are  bound  to  suffer.  The  greatest 
sufferer  in  the  present  instance  is  likely  to  be  the  Tehuantepec 
Railway.  The  railways  of  America  may  also  "  feel  the  draught," 
and  will  no  doubt  actively  oppose  the  raising  of  capital  for  steam- 
ship companies.  The  fixing  of  canal  dues  has  yet  to  be  done,  and 
the  shipping  world  is  looking  forward  with  keen  interest  to  the 
arrangements  that  will  be  made.  The  passing  by  the  Senate  of 
the  Panama  Canal  Bill  in  August,  1912,  with  its  clauses  giving 
favoured  treatment  to  America  coastal  shipping  has  aroused  a 
chorus  of  protest  from  foreign  countries,  and  even  in  the  States 
difficult  points  remain  to  be  settled,  and  until  they  are  the  in- 
terests of  different  shipping  and  railway  companies  are  naturally 
rather  anxious.  ^In  nearly  all  maritime  countries  preparations 
are  being  advanced  to  take  advantage  of  the  new  highway,  and 
American  shippers  in  particular  are  awaking  to  a  sense  of  the 
importance  of  the  markets  made  more  accessible.  The  American 
Hawaiian  Company,  now  using  eighteen  ships  between  Hawaii 
and  New  York,  has  ordered  five  large  freight  steamers  to  the 

95 


A  Tour  through  South  Ainerica 

island  via  Panama  Canal.  A  new  company,  the  "  Atlantic  and 
Pacific,"  proposes  fifteen  vessels  as  a  start.  The  Royal  Mail 
steamers  from  Southampton  to  Colon  and  the  Pacific  Steam 
Navigation  Company  will  be  in  a  strong  position  for  obtain- 
ing a  large  proportion  of  the  South  American  trade.  The 
Hamburg-American  are  reported  to  be  looking  for  docks  at 
San  Francisco.  The  Ward  and  other  American  lines  will  become 
patrons  of  the  canal,  and  it  is  estimated  that  one  hundred 
new  American  vessels  will  soon  be  under  construction  in 
national  yards,  and  that  will  make  nearly  one  hundred  and 
fifty  of  that  nation  ready  for  the  canal.  Other  countries  are 
not  idle.  Japan  has  boats  in  course  of  construction  ;  Denmark 
contemplates  a  service  between  Copenhagen  and  San  Francisco 
and  other  Pacific  ports ;  the  Holland-American  hue  of  Rotterdam 
and  the  French  Transatlantic  will  also  enter  into  the  Pacific 
trade.  The  Hamburg-American  line  projects  carrying  emigrants 
to  the  Pacific  coast  (Peru,  etc.)  from  Hamburg,  Antwerp,  Cher- 
bourg, Plymouth,  Genoa,  and  Naples  at  the  same  rate  as  to  New 
York  plus  canal  dues.  That  the  whole  course  of  commerce  will 
be  changed  there  can  be  no  two  opinions,  and  that  the  Pacific 
seaboard  of  South  America  will  benefit  is  also  a  foregone  con- 
clusion. Guayaquil,  Callao,  Mollendo  and  Arica  and  Valparaiso 
will  be  brought  nearer  to  their  markets  by  direct  steamship 
service,  and  the  closer  intercourse  will  undoubtedly  bring  about 
large  increases  in  their  commerce.  Ships  sailing  from  the  Eastern 
and  Western  coasts  of  the  United  States  will  save  a  distance  of 
from  seven  to  eight  thousand  miles,  and  European  shipping  to 
Pacific  ports  will  reduce  their  voyages  by  about  the  same  number. 


96 


CHAPTER    VII 
Panama 

WHEN  the  present  city  of  Panama  was  founded  in  1673,  its 
architects  and  builders  in  laying  out  the  new  town  fixed 
its  location  up  the  rocky  peninsula  which  juts  out  into  the  sea 
at  the  foot  of  Ancon  hill.  They  had  a  vivid  recollection  of  the 
fate  that  had  overtaken  the  old  city,  and  were  determined  that 
the  new  one  should  offer  a  more  formidable  front  to  any  invading 
foe,  and  so  strongly  fortified  was  the  new  city  that  with  the  ex- 
ception of  Cartagena  it  was  the  most  impregnable  fortress  in 
the  whole  of  South  America.  Shortly  after  the  city  was  founded 
it  became  the  capital  of  Terra  Firma,  and  it  was  hoped  by  the 
founders  that  the  surrounding  provinces  of  Panama,  Darien,  and 
Veragua  would  contribute  largely  to  its  importance  and  support. 
But  the  Indians  of  the  Darien  province,  regaining  their  independ- 
ence, became  uncontrollable,  and  the  gold  mines  in  the  other 
provinces  proved,  after  extended  trials,  to  be  unremunerative, 
so  that  the  new  city  was  dependent  chiefly  upon  the  pearl  fisheries, 
which  are  to  this  day  of  considerable  importance  to  it.  The  pearls 
of  Panama  are  of  fine  quality  and  remarkable  size,  and  although 
the  fashions  of  different  ages  have  undergone  changes  with  regard 
to  jewels,  the  fisheries  have,  in  spite  of  the  in-creasing  popularity 
of  diamonds,  been  able  to  hold  their  own  by  opening  up  new 
markets  in  Peru  and  Southern  America.  The  real  reason,  however, 
of  the  importance  of  the  new  city  was  the  unique  position  it 
occupied.  It  rapidly  became  the  market  for  the  products  of  the 
rich  countries  on  the  Pacific  coast,  and  fleets  of  small  saiHng  craft 
were  ever  arriving  at  the  port  laden  with  valuable  merchandise. 
Great  stores  were  built  for  the  reception  of  the  goods  until  the 
mule  trains  were  ready  to  convey  them  across  the  isthmus,  en  route 
for  Spain.  Many  of  the  older  buildings  are  now  in  ruins,  but  what 
G  97 


A  Tour  through  South  America 

remains  affords  ample  evidence  of  the  city's  former  splendour. 
With  the  decay  of  piracy  the  necessity  of  keeping  up  the  earlier 
standards  of  resistance  ceased  and  many  of  the  older  buildings 


OUTSIDE   A   CHURCH   ON   CHRISTMAS   EVE,    PANAMA. 

were  allowed  to  fall  into  decay.  Even  the  old  city  wall  has 
dwindled  until  only  a  portion  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile  in  length 
remains.    This  is  a  favourite  playground  of  the  children,  and 

98 


Panama 

when  the  sun  is  setting,  the  older  people  of  the  poorer  classes 
rest  upon  the  worn-out  benches  that  project  from  the  stone 
parapets,  enjoying  the  cooling  breezes  that  evening  brings. 
Legend  has  it  that  Phihp  V  of  Spain  was  observed  by  his  courtiers 
gazing  into  the  distance  that  lay  in  the  direction  of  the  new 
colonies,  and  when  one  of  his  ministers  asked  him  what  he 
strained  his  eyes  to  behold,  the  King,  with  a  merry  twinkle  in  his 
eye,  replied  that  "  he  was  trying  to  discern  the  walls  of  Panama, 
for  they  had  cost  so  much,  that  surely  they  must  be  visible  even 
from  Spain."  The  whole  of  the  old  town  is  built  of  stone  quarried 
from  the  volcanic  rocks  in  the  vicinity  ;  the  walls  of  most  of  the 
buildings  are  from  three  to  four  feet  in  thickness,  with  the  windows 
placed  high  up  from  the  ground  ;  the  thick  doors  are  plentifully 
studded  with  huge  nails,  and  bound  by  stout  iron  bands.  The 
cathedrals  and  churches  are  massive  and  liberally  supplied  with 
heavy  buttresses  ;  in  fact,  they  look  more  like  fortresses  than 
places  of  worship  ;  and  there  are  so  many  of  them  that  one  might 
easily  fall  into  the  error  of  believing  that  the  founders  of  the 
city  and  early  inhabitants  were  a  very  religious  community. 
There  is  one  church  in  the  Calle  San  Jose  that  I  visited  frequently 
during  the  heat  of  the  day,  the  cool  shade  it  afforded  was  a  welcome 
contrast  to  the  hot  glare  of  the  streets  ;  and  although  I  have  been 
in  it  many  times,  I  never  saw  more  than  two  or,  at  the  most,  three 
persons  in  it  at  the  same  time.  It  has  an  earthy  smell,  and  is 
damp,  cool,  and  fusty.  Round  the  edifice  altars  stand  out  in 
harsh  relief  from  the  austere  whitewashed  walls.  Carved  figures 
of  saints  draped  in  dusty  raiment  that  was  once  brilliant  gave 
the  place  an  aspect  of  a  cheap  waxworks.  The  small  windows 
high  up  in  the  walls  let  in  a  silvery  light  that  diffused  itself  through 
the  interior.  The  pews  or  forms  arranged  down  the  centre  of  the 
aisle  were  in  the  last  stages  of  decay,  so  frail  and  rotten  that  they 
could  not  support  any  substantial  weight.  Occasionally  a  negress 
with  a  bright-coloured  turban  and  long,  traiUng  gown  would 
sail  into  the  gloom  and  glide  noiselessly  up  to  one  of  the  many 
altars,  in  front  of  which  she  would  kneel  and  stare  about  as  if 
bewildered.  But  I  was  generally  alone  in  the  great  building, 
sometimes  catching  glimpses  of  the  aged  priest,  who,  with  robes 
tucked  up,  was  occupied  in  sweeping  the  damp,  stone  floor, 
a  pathetic  reminder  of  the  waning  power  of  Holy  Church  in  the 
city.    At  Christmas  time  there  is  created  in  this  church  a  huge 

99 


A  Tottr  through  South  America 

toy-like  representation  of  the  Nativity,  with  small  dolls  crudely 
suggesting  the  shepherds  and  the  Magi  visiting  the  manger. 
A  great  array  of  candles  are  set  in  front  and  all  around  the 
tawdry  show,  and  all  day  long  crowds  of  the  poorer  classes  stand 
gazing  spellbound  at  the  marvel.  All  the  other  churches  in  the 
city  have  some  similar  exhibition  during  Christmas  week,  and 


THE   FLAT   ARCH   OF   ST.    DOMINIC. 

the  crowds  go  from  one  to  another,  eager  to  see  all  they  can  for 
nothing.  The  church  of  La  Merced,  which  stands  in  the  Calle 
Real,  in  what  used  to  be  the  extreme  limit  of  the  city,  is  built 
from  the  materials  gathered  at  the  ruins  of  the  old  church  of  the 
same  name  that  stood  in  the  ancient  city  of  Panama.  The  church 
stands  at  a  street  corner,  and  on  the  left  of  the  main  entrance, 
occupying  the  corner  of  the  building,  is  a  small  chapel,  some 
sixteen  feet  square,  with  a  door  from  either  street.   At  all  times 

lOO 


some  worshipper  is  to  be  found  inside  this  httle  sanctuary,  for  so 
conveniently  situated  is  it  that  passers-by  have  only  to  step  a  few 
feet  out  of  their  way  to  be  within  its  walls.  Women  with  great 
bundles  on  their  heads  step  in,  cross  themselves,  mutter  a  word 
or  two,  and  are  not  detained  more  than  a  few  seconds  by  their 
devotions  ;  whilst  the  man  of  business  and  small  urchins  rush 
through  one  door  and  out  at  the  other,  to  save  the  turning  at  the 
corner  of  the  street.  The  oldest  church  in  the  city,  that  of  San 
FeHpi  Nevi,  has  the  date  ''  1688  "  carved  on  a  sliield  above  its 
entrance,  but  the  more  modern  buildings  that  have  sprung  up 
around  it  almost  hide  it  from  view.  Its  walls  are  about  five  feet 
in  thickness,  which  doubtless  accounts  for  it  still  standing.  The 
cathedral  in  the  Central  Plaza,  the  largest  building  in  the  city,  is 
in  a  very  good  state  of  repair,  and  is  generally  well  attended. 
It  has  two  lofty  towers  surmounted  with  conical  domes  covered 
with  oyster-shells,  which  ghsten  and  sparkle  in  the  sun.  The 
front  of  the  church  is  richly  moulded  and  faced  Vith  flat,  fluted, 
and  engaged  columns.  In  the  niches  sculptured  figures  representing 
the  twelve  apostles  are  placed,  while  at  the  top,  in  the  centre,  is 
placed  an  effigy  of  the  Virgin.  The  whole  building  is  painted 
over  with  a  disagreeable  colour-wash  of  saffron  hue,  an  act  of 
vandahsm  that  could  only  occur  in  a  country  that  pays  little 
or  no  regard  to  the  upkeep  of  its  public  buildings.  Another  instance 
of  the  scant  attention  and  regard  for  ancient  monuments  can  be 
seen  in  the  ruins  of  the  once  noble  church  of  St.  Dominic.  The 
roof  of  this  large  building  has  long  since  disappeared,  probably 
during  one  of  the  numerous  fires  that  have  played  such  havoc 
in  the  city.  There  remains,  however,  in  this  church  a  most  extra- 
ordinary specimen  of  building  construction — a  large  arch  of  over 
sixty  feet  span,  near  the  principal  entrance,  has  caused  much  dis- 
cussion amongst  engineers  and  architects.  It  is  practically  flat, 
having  no  other  support  than  its  terminal  columns.  How  it  has 
survived  the  earthquake  shocks  that  have  from  time  to  time 
visited  the  city  is  a  mystery.  Some  experts  have  pointed  to  it 
as  evidence  that  no  very  serious  tremors  can  ever  have  taken 
place  since  it  was  built.  But,  however  this  may  be,  it  is  certainly 
an  ingenious  piece  of  construction,  probably  unique.  A  legend 
obtains  currency  amongst  the  better  informed  natives  to  the  effect 
that  before  success  attended  the  labours  of  the  builders  three 
failures  befell  them.   On  the  last  occasion  the  designer  of  the  arch 

lOI 


stood  underneath  it  and  proclaimed  it  to  be  a  sound  piece  of 
construction  if  it  did  not  fall  upon  him.  It  hardly  needed  the 
pious  architect  to  point  out  that  something  was  indeed 
seriously  wrong  with  the  work  if  it  did  fall  and  kill  him.  But 
silly  legends  abound  in  Latin  America  as  well  as  in  other  parts 
of  the  globe.  The  church  of  St.  Dominic  must  have  had  an  im- 
posing appearance  in  its  early  youth,  for  even  the  ravages  of 
time  and  weather  have  failed  to  rob  it  of  distinction,  and  the 
thick,  tropical  vegetation  that  now  runs  wild  over  its  crumbling 
walls  suggests  forcibly  that  nature  is  more  anxious  to  hide  decay 


OLD    HOUSES    ON    THE    SEA    WALL,    PANAMA. 

than  man  is  to  prevent  it.  The  city  has  undergone  many  changes 
since  its  birth,  and  the  regular  symmetrical  design  that  was  in 
earlier  times  adhered  to  by  its  builders  has  been  so  modified  and 
altered  by  subsequent  designers  that  it  is  with  difficulty  that  we 
can  form  an  idea  of  its  earlier  aspect.  Whenever  fire  and  time 
have  destroyed  buildings,  no  effort  has  been  made  to  rebuild 
in  the  substantial  early  manner.  The  old  fortifications  have 
nearly  all  disappeared,  and  the  city  has  grown  far  beyond  the 
limits  which  they  set  to  its  extension.  Flimsy  structures  are  now 
erected  of  timber  framework  covered  with  plaster,  and  treated 
with  a  coat  of  whitewash.  The  sham  is  rampant.  How  the  shade 
of  Ruskin  would  writhe  in  agony  should  it  chance  in  its  wanderings 
to  visit  Panama,  where  stucco  masquerades  as  stone.  A  month 
or  two  at  most  of  the  varying  climatic  conditions  of  alternate 

I02 


'    Panama 

dry  and  damp  heat  and  the  most  pretentious  mansions  present 
a  disreputable  aspect.  The  colour  schemes  which  are  attempted 
by  the  decorators  are  novel  and  discordant.  The  half-formed, 
undeveloped,  aesthetic  sense  of  the  Latin  American  is  more 
amazing  than  the  crudest  efforts  in  art  of  the  rudest  savages. 
A  striking  instance  of  perverted  colour  sense  was  displayed  by  a 
promment  citizen  during  the  memorable  visit  of  President  Roose- 
velt. In  honour  of  the  unique  occasion,  this  enterprising  gentle- 
man caused  the  exterior  of  his  house  to  be  covered  with  a  hideous 
magenta  water-wash,  ornamental  parts  being  picked  out  in  a 
canary  yellow.  The  originality  of  this  scheme  attracted  much 
attention  ;  and  although  the  few  judicious  grieved,  the  masses 
were  delighted. 


t03 


CHAPTER   VIII 

The  Panamanians 

THE  difficulties  that  beset  the  early  travellers  across  the 
Isthmus  of  Panama  over  two  hundred  years  ago  still 
remain,  and  confront  the  explorer  in  these  regions  at  every  turn. 
Very  little  has  been  done  to  cultivate  the  rich  lands  which  are 
capable  of  rapidly  yielding  in  great  abundance  every  kind  of 
tropical  fruit. 

Few  roads  exist,  and  until  some  attempts  are  made  thus  to 
open  up  the  country,  little  or  no  change  will  ever  take  place  in 
the  condition  of  the  interior.  The  activity  on  the  isthmus  to-day 
is  confined  to  the  Canal  Zone,  but  there  are  indications  that  in 
the  near  future  the  systematic  cultivation  of  this  hitherto  neg- 
lected country  will  yield  a  harvest  richer  than  any  ever  reaped 
by  the  gold  seekers  of  Pizarro's  day. 

The  average  Panamanian  of  the  present  day,  true  to  the 
traditions  of  his  race,  has  little  inclination  or  no  taste  for  hus- 
bandry, and  is  well  content  to  occupy  some  trivial  government 
position  which  brings  him  in  a  sure  if  small  income,  whilst  putting 
no  tax  upon  his  intelligence.  He  has  leisure  to  live  a  life  of  social 
gaiety  in  the  capital,  and  spend  his  time  in  enjoying  the  inter- 
course with  strangers  passing  over  the  highway  to  the  Pacific 
coast.  With  the  Spaniard's  love  of  an  indolent  life  accentuated 
by  a  tropical  climate,  the  only  violent  exercise  they  ever  take 
is  vehement  talking  by  the  hour,  at  all  times  and  in  all  places  on 
affairs  of  government.  Panamanians  are  a  strange  mixture  of 
many  races.  Spanish  by  descent,  with  an  infusion  of  more  or 
less  Indian,  negro,  German,  English,  Dutch,  and  French  blood, 
some  of  them  claim  that  they  are  pure  Indians,  and  therefore 
true  Americans,  and  proudly  point  out  that  the  inhabitants 
of  the  United  States  have  not  the  same  authority  to  call  them- 
104 


The  Pajiamanians 

selves  American  as  the  real  descendants  of  the  aborigines  of  the 
two  continents. 

But  they  are  very  amiable,  these  Panamanians,  ever  ready 
with  a  smile  or  salute  as  you  pass  them  on  the  street,  and  with 
an  infinite  capacity  for  making  acquaintances,  if  not  for  forming 
friendships. 

Late  in  the  afternoon  you  can  see  many  of  them  astride  prancing 
steeds,  neat,  round-bellied  little  animals,  with  finely-arched  necks, 
tapering  legs  clattering  along  the  newly  paved  streets,  their  small 
feet  making  a  strange  music  like  castanets.  The  saddles  used  are 
of  the  Mexican  type,  and  the  large  leathern  protections  which 
surround  the  front  portion  of  the  stirrups  give  the  riders  a  some- 


PANAMA    FROM    ANCON. 


what  grotesque  appearance.  About  the  same  hour  a  continuous 
procession  of  carriages  drives  along  the  Savannah  road,  many  of 
them  of  smart  appearance.  The  black  coachmen  are  all  more  or 
less  disfigured  with  tall,  shining  hats  and  brass-buttoned  coats, 
but  the  occupants  reclining  behind  them  look  beautiful  and  cool 
in  bright-coloured  gowns  of  amazing  cuts.  There  are  only  two 
roads  leading  out  of  Panama  over  which  carriages  can  pass,  and 
consequently  the  drivers  in  the  neighbourhood  of  the  city  are 
limited  to  them.  One  of  these — that  leading  to  Balboa — passes 
the  cemeteries  of  the  city.  Until  very  recently  a  custom  obtained 
in  Panama  with  regard  to  the  burial  of  the  dead  which  was  so 
repellent  it  is  almost  incredible  that  it  could  have  existed  even  in 
a  savage  country.    A  concession  was  granted  by  the  Government 

105 


A  Tour  through  South  Ainerica 

to  one  of  its  prominent  citizens  who  let  out  graves  on  lease  and 
collected  rents  from  the  relatives.  Should  they  fall  in  arrears 
with  the  rent,  the  stony-hearted  concessioner  had  little  com- 
punction in  ordering  his  men  to  remove  the  remains  from  the 
vault  in  which  they  rested,  and  cast  them  into  a  waste  bit  of 
ground  near  by.  Other  cemeteries  separated  by  walls  from 
one  another  are  provided  for  the  interment  of  different  rehgious 
bodies.  Jews,  Mohammedans,  Chinese,  Roman  Catholics,  and 
Protestants  are  each  buried  among  their  co-religionists. 

The  United  States  Government,  with  a  sentimental  regard 
for  the  feelings  of  its  citizens,  has,  through  the  Canal  Commission, 
made  a  rule  that,  should  any  citizen  of  the  United  States  in  the 
employ  of  the  Commission  die  while  on  the  isthmus,  his  body 
shall  be  embalmed  and  conveyed  at  the  Government's  expense 
to  any  part  of  the  United  States  that  the  relatives  may  desire. 

That  a  reform  of  the  burial  system  in  Panama  from  a  sanitary 
point  of  view  was  necessary  and  should  have  impressed  itself 
upon  the  health  authorities  is  not  to  be  wondered  at,  but  it  only 
could  have  been  brought  about  in  this  instance  by  the  United 
States  having  full  power  over  the  health  and  sanitation  of  the 
country  which  adjoins  their  strip  of  territory.  In  the  country 
districts  there  are,  of  course,  no  special  burial  grounds,  but  the 
small  wooden  crosses  and  cairns  that  are  scattered  up  and  down 
serve  to  mark  the  spots  chosen  for  the  interment  of  the  dead. 

There  is  one  other  cemetery  about  two  miles  from  Colon  called 
Mount  Hope,  better  known  on  the  isthmus  as  ''  Monkey  Hill." 
The  graves  marked  with  wooden  crosses  contain  the  remains 
of  representatives  of  nearly  every  country  in  the  world.  The 
monuments  erected  are  of  the  most  flimsy  materials,  so  that 
any  indications  of  the  last  resting-place  of  thousands  of  the 
makers  of  the  isthmian  route  will  inevitably  disappear.  So 
accustomed  were  the  inhabitants  of  Colon  to  the  procession  of 
the  funeral  train,  that  they  became  quite  callous  to  the  fate  of 
the  many  who  had  been  stricken  with  the  deadly  fevers  so 
rampant  in  the  place,  and  funerals  going  along  the  streets  are 
usually  followed  by  mourners  engaged  in  lively  conversation  and 
smoking  big  cigars. 

Close  contact  with  these  melancholy  scenes  is  unavoidable 
in  the  small  area  in  which  the  inhabitants  of  the  towns  of  Colon 
and  Panama  dwell,  and  the  high  death-rate  which  both  have 
1 06 


The  Panamanians 

suffered  from  has  made  their  populations  famihar  with  the 
trappings  of  woe. 

The  road  that  leads  out  of  the  city  to  the  Savannahs,  where 
the  summer  residences  of  the  better  class  merchants  are  situated, 
is  good,  as  it  comes  within  the  canal  strip  ceded  to  the  States. 
It  is*  mostly  used  by  the  gentry  of  Panama,  and  it  has  lately 
been  extended  right  out  to  the  ruins  of  the  earliest  Latin  city 
in  America,  "old  Panama,"  which  was  destroyed  by  Morgan  in 
his  famous  raid.  Very  little  remains  of  the  city  which  was  known 
to  its  contemporaries  as  the  "  Golden  cup  of  the  West."  Its 
churches  with  rich  altars,  and  houses  filled  with  priceless  tapestries, 
its  richly  furnished  mansions,  its  opulent  warehouses  and  wealthy 
inhabitants,  belong  to  the  past.  The  ruined  tower  and  walls,  all 
overgrown  with  jungle,  that  lie  near  the  shore,  are  all  that  remain 
of  the  cathedral  church  of  St.  Anastasius.  A  couple  of  narrow 
masonry  bridges  near  the  city  indicate  where  the  famous  "  gold 
road  "  led  into  the  town.  Over  this  road,  the  Cruces  trail  which 
led  from  Panama  on  the  Pacific  to  Porto  Bello  on  the  Atlantic, 
travelled  the  famous  mule  trains  with  their  precious  freights  of 
gold  and  silver  from  Peru.  The  road  can  still  be  followed,  a  track 
of  huge,  irregular  stones  marking  the  course  it  took,  and  in  some 
places  fair-sized  patches  of  the  pavement  are  still  intact.  There 
is  little  interesting  about  the  ruined  city  except  its  associations 
with  the  past.  It  is  dead,  and  nature  is  striving  hard  to  inter  it 
decently  beneath  a  luxuriant  pall  of  green.  One  can  only  visit 
the  spot  to  stir  the  imagination  and  call  up  its  wondrous  past. 
On  this  spot  Pizarro  banded  his  followers  together,  and  from  the 
now  overgrown  harbour  walls  his  little  fleet  set  sail  on  one  of 
the  most  momentous  voyages  on  record.  The  happenings  in 
"  old  Panama  "  make  the  first  page  in  the  voluminous  history  of 
the  great  sub-continent. 

Of  the  saloons  and  restaurants,  with  imposing  names  and  un- 
inviting aspect,  much  might  be  said.  Even  the  best  of  them 
could  be  improved  with  little  difficulty,  but  they  serve  well 
enough  the  uncritical  tastes  of  their  patrons.  The  better  class 
cafes  or  bars  in  Colon  and  Panama  are  generally  attached  to 
hotels  ;  and  in  the  time  when  the  French  Company's  headquarters 
were  in  the  Plaza  at  Panama  the  cafes  and  saloons  were  filled 
with  exuberant  life,  until  the  early  morning  hours,  and  the  larger 
and  more  important  bars  were  the  most  popular  places  in  the 

1 07 


A  Tour  through  South  America 

city.  But  to-day  the  clubs  have  taken  the  places  of  saloons, 
as  far  as  the  higher  officials  are  concerned,  while  the  spread  of 
the  canal  offices  all  along  the  route  has  greatly  affected  the  busi- 
ness of  the  saloons.  Still  on  Saturdays  and  Sundays  many  of  the 
gold  employees  on  the  Zone  (clerks,  steam-shovel  men,  engineers, 
foremen,  supervisors,  timekeepers,  and  others,  whose  occupation 
it  would  be  difficult  to  discover)  flock  into  Panama,  to  witness  the 


A   BIT   OF    THE    OLD   TOWX. 


baseball  games  and  meet  their  friends.  At  such  times  the  saloons 
and  bars  enjoy  once  more  a  taste  of  their  almost  forgotten  popu- 
larity. The  most  important  saloon  is  that  attached  to  the  Hotel 
Central  in  the  Plaza.  If  you  sit  in  it  from  early  morning  till  late 
in  the  evening,  you  will  be  certain  to  meet  with  every  important 
person  in  the  city.  Some  you  would  see  very  often,  others  but 
seldom.  Their  merry  chatter  and  hilarity  make  the  place  lively, 
1 08 


The  Panamanians 

and  their  almost  unquenchable  thirst  keeps  the  bar-tender  busy. 
Always^  parched  and  thirsty  themselves,  they  are  obsessed  with 
the  opinion  that  everybody  they  meet  is  suffering  from  the  same 
complaint.  Before  dinner-time,  about  half-past  six  in  the  evening, 
the  crowd  in  the  saloon  of  the  "  Central  "  gathers,  and  each  small 
round  table  is  the  centre  of  a  noisy  group  of  companions  who 
order  cocktails,  "  high  bulls,"  and  other  cheering  concoctions. 
Meanwhile  small  boys  shout  the  evening  paper,  a  miserable 
Httle  sheet  that  never  contains  any  news  sufficiently  important 
to  cause  comment,  for  all  the  information  it  prints  has  been  dis- 
cussed hours  before.  Nevertheless,  many  copies  are  sold,  for  the 
Panamanian,  ever  anxious  to  keep  abreast  with  the  manners  and 
customs  of  civilised  communities,  generally  buys  a  copy.  Old 
women  with  lottery  tickets  do  quite  a  large  business  at  this  hour, 
for  after  the  twentieth  cocktail  even  the  most  accomplished 
drinker  becomes  a  little  regardless  and  throws  his  money  about 
recklessly.  But  for  all  that,  great  care  is  taken  in  choosing  with 
a  becoming  semblance  of  sober  judgment  a  number  that  the 
purchaser  has  some  very  particular  fancy  for.  Once  a  ticket  has 
been  sold,  the  demands  of  others,  always  ready  to  emulate  the 
plunging  of  a  good  sportsman,  keep  the  vendor  of  chances  bus}^ 
Two  or  three  of  the  roysterers  will  join  together  and  purchase 
a  ticket  between  them.  The  division  into  shares  and  complex 
allotments  of  the  ticket  invested  entail  the  making  of  illegible 
notes  and  memoranda  which  serve  to  give  a  business-like  air  to 
the  transactions.  More  small  boys,  wearing  a  grin  that  makes  up 
for  the  scantiness  of  their  clothing,  dart  in  and  out  through  the 
open  doors  with  paper  bags  containing  pea-nuts,  and  soon  dispose 
of  their  entire  stock.  Piles  of  these  nuts  lie  on  each  of  the  little 
tables,  and  the  cracking  and  munching  sounds  as  they  disappear 
make  up  for  breaks  in  the  conversation.  The  stone  floor  soon 
assumes  the  aspect  of  a  newly  gravelled  pavement,  and  the 
parties  begin  to  separate  and  make  their  ways  to  dinner.  Thus 
early  in  the  evening  is  the  "  Central  "  saloon  deserted,  and  should 
the  visitor  be  desirous  of  being  in  the  crowd  after  this  hour,  he 
must  seek  some  other  resort.  At  the  numerous  gatherings  and 
entertainments  which  take  place  in  Panama  a  great  variety 
and  odd  assortment  of  types  from  every  quarter  of  the  globe 
are  encountered.  Quite  apart  from  the  casual  gatherings  of  tran- 
sients at  the  hotels,  there  are  many  opportunities  for  those  who 

109 


A  Tour  fhroitgh  South  America 

appreciate  gaiety  to  indulge  their  taste  to  the  full.  Scarce  a  week 
passes  but  there  are  two  or  three  balls,  receptions  given  by  mem- 
bers of  clubs  or  private  residents,  and  visitors  to  the  city  generally 
receive  invitations. 

The  weekly  reception  by  the  President  is  usually  well  attended 
by  the  Panamanians  and  visitors,  while  many  of  the  Canal  Com- 
mission  officials  put   in   an   appearance,   and  with   their  white 


THE   PLAZA,    PANAMA. 


uniforms  lighten  the  scene.  The  official  residence  of  the  President* 
guarded  by  about  twenty  lounging,  diminutive  policemen,  is 
alive  with  bustling  movement,  and  carriages  in  all  stages  of  decay 
line  the  street  outside.  After  leaving  your  hat  with  a  very  un- 
official-looking servant  at  the  entrance,  you  pass  into  a  large  salon, 
and  are  introduced  to  the  President,  who  stands  near  the  door. 
Many  of  the  leaders  of  fashion  and  society  are  assembled  in  the 
room,  and  you  soon  discover  that  a  free  and  easy  air  entirely 
no 


The  Panainanians 

devoid  of  anything  like  formality  pervades  the  apartment. 
Puzzle  games  that  long  ago  were  sold  by  the  vendors  of  cheap 
novelties  on  the  streets  of  big  cities  lie  around  on  tables  in  heaps 
to  amuse  the  guests,  while  at  circular  tables,  placed  at  one  end  of 
the  room,  elderly,  stout  persons  sit  playing  at  the  game  of  puff- 
ball.  The  room,  about  one  hundred  feet  long  by  thirty  feet  wide, 
is  furnished  with  gilded  chairs  and  lounges  and  tables,  and  along 
the  top  of  the  walls,  doing  duty  as  a  frieze,  are  a  series  of  poorly 
painted  portraits. 

These  pictures  are  painted  on  the  surface  of  the  wall,  and  round 
each  is  an  oval  frame  or  wreath,  also  painted  in  yellow  colours, 
to  represent  gilding. 

Past  Governors  and  patriots  and  statesmen  all  glare  down 
on  their  successors  in  the  game  of  politics.  For  whom  they  all 
were  intended,  and  what  names  the  originals  bore,  it  is  doubtful 
if  any  of  the  present  generation  could  tell,  for  all  the  South  Ameri- 
can republics  have  scores  of  heroes  whose  reputations  and  fame 
have  long  been  forgotten,  and  there  are  few  who  have  sufficient 
interest  in  the  past  to  keep  green  the  records  of  the  illustrious 
dead.  The  living  specimens  of  "  patriots,"  who  with  perfervid 
zeal  talk  of  their  country's  rights  and  wrongs,  its  present  and  its 
future,  are  certainly  a  better-looking  lot  than  their  predecessors, 
but  it  may  be  that  the  artists  who  limned  the  features  of  the 
latter  have  not  done  the  originals  justice. 

The  ladies  of  Colombia  are  proverbial  for  their  good  looks, 
and  those  of  Panama  are  no  exception.  The  popular  conception 
of  the  jealousy  of  Spanish  husbands,  who  are  commonly  supposed 
to  be  rather  ready  with  the  knife  and  stiletto,  is  quite  erroneous, 
at  least  as  far  as  Panama  and  Colombia  are  concerned. 

The  ladies  of  Colombia  affect  the  fashions  of  Europe  and  Paris, 
and  in  Panama  one  sees  but  few  of  the  older  picturesque  fashions 
that  still  obtain  in  many  of  the  cities  and  towns  of  the  interior. 
Some  of  the  poorer  classes  still  wear  their  thick,  black  hair  in 
two  long  plaits  hanging  over  their  shoulders,  and  a  few  of  the 
costumes  are  rather  original,  consisting  of  black  silk  skirts  cut 
sufficiently  close  to  show  the  form,  a  large  kerchief  thrown  over 
the  head,  and  falHng  in  long  folds  down  to  the  waist.  The  mantilla 
is  worn  by  some,  but  newer  fashions  are  fast  ousting  every  kind 
of  national  dress.  In  Cartagena  and  Bogota  are  seen  more  of  the 
older,  picturesque  forms,  but  it  is  only  amongst  the  lower  orders 

III 


AN   INTERIOR,   CARTAGENA. 


The  Panamanians 

in  Panama  that  frills  and  flounces  still  linger.  Smoking  is  quite 
common  amongst  the  women  all  over  Latin  America,  and  the 
fair  sex  in  Colombia  are  no  exceptions.  Their  cigars  are  often 
carried  in  their  hair.  In  Panama  the  ladies  have  a  freedom  that 
is  quite  notorious  ;  far  from  being  confined  behind  iron  gratings, 
they  are  allowed  the  diversions  of  balls,  dances,  supper  parties, 
and  receptions,  without  any  fear  of  the  control  of  their  husbands, 
who  are  not  always  in  attendance.  The  Panamanian  senoras 
are  extremely  good-natured,  and  their  bright  smiles  and  dangerous 
glances  are  bestowed  with  a  careless  freedom  that  would  shock 
their  fair  sisters  in  Buenos  Ayres.  The  education  of  women  in 
South  America  generally  is  not  so  far  advanced  as  it  is  in  the 
northern  continent  or  in  Europe,  though  they  are  generally  pro- 
ficient, and  frequently  excel  in  musical  accomplishments.  They 
are  perhaps  no  worse  than  the  women  of  other  lands  in  their  love 
of  gossiping  and  scandal,  and,  accustomed  to  flattery  from  their 
earliest  years,  and  with  interests  narrowed  down  to  a  limited 
range  of  subjects,  it  is  little  wonder  that  they  are  incapable  of 
conversing  long  or  interestedly  upon  any  topic  save  love,  and  that 
when  it  gives  out  they  should  fall  back  upon  scandal.  They  weary 
over  books,  and  turn  over  the  pages  with  but  a  languid  interest, 
and  to  any  exercise  save  dancing  they  are  naturally  averse. 
Their  conversation  is  rather  free  and  unrestrained,  and  they  talk 
glibly  of  the  secret  lovers  of  their  dearest  friends.  Their  beauty 
is  but  skin  deep  and  wears  rather  badly ;  their  indolent  habits 
cause  them  soon  to  assume  a  bulkiness  of  form  quite  inconsistent 
with  grace  or  comeliness,  and  it  is  only  their  passionate  devotion 
to  dancing  that  prevents  them  from  becoming  positively  un- 
wieldy. 

Ministers  and  Consuls  from  other  repubhcs  abound  at  the 
receptions  and  balls,  and  the  many  fashions  in  whiskers,  beards, 
and  moustaches  provoke  much  comment  and  many  smiles. 
Merchants,  shopkeepers,  doctors,  lawyers,  concessioners,  their 
wives  and  daughters,  all  jostle  one  another  in  the  crush.  The 
rooms  get  stiflingly  hot  as  the  evening  wears  on  ;  the  balcony 
outside  is  invitingly  cool,  and  the  quiet  beauty  of  the  night 
contrasts  strongly  with  the  noise  and  glitter  of  the  saloons.  Across 
the  bay  lie  the  undulating  hills,  all  but  lost  in  a  translucent 
opal  pall ;  the  myriads  of  stars  overhead  shine  with  a  glory  that 
evokes  ejaculations  of  admiration,  the  more  brilhant  of  them  are 

H  III 


A  Tour  throtigh  South  America 

reflected  with  many  a  tremor  in  the  placid  sea  beneath.  Lights 
on  distant  boats  bob  up  and  down,  while  the  murmur  of  the  waves 
as  they  break  gently  on  the  shore  makes  a  music  that  can  be  heard 
above  the  sound  made  of  all  human  speech  that  floats  out  of  the 
open  doors  from  the  salon. 

At  supper  parties  it  is  quite  a  usual  thing  for  speeches  pro- 
posing toasts  to  be  made,  and  when  once  they  are  started  there 
is  no  stopping  the  flow  of  oratory.  They  love  long- worded  speeches 
almost  as  much  as  the  Brazilians,  and  will  listen  to  themselves 
and  others  for  hours,  and  it  must  be  admitted  that  they  have  a 
ready  if  a  simple  wit  on  all  occasions.  I  have  heard  a  Panamanian 
after  dinner  make  an  impromptu  speech,  in  which  he  felicitously 
described  all  the  guests  around  the  table,  and  if  his  incisive 
humour  was  at  times  a  little  grotesque  and  his  satire  biting,  the 
subject  of  his  jest  was  as  delighted  ias  the  rest  of  his  audience  at 
his  sallies. 

On  the  last  day  of  the  old  year  I  had  an  opportunity  of  seeing 
the  Panamanians  really  enjoying  and  proving  their  capacity 
for  entertaining  themselves.  A  ball  was  given  by  one  of  the  clubs 
on  31  December,  and  as  their  new  president  entered  on  his  duties 
the  moment  the  numerous  clocks  in  the  city  should  cease  striking 
twelve,  a  fine  occasion  for  a  speech  presented  itself.  All  the 
company  assembled  in  the  ballroom  about  ten  minutes  before  the 
dying  year  yielded  up  its  last  gasp  of  time.  The  ladies  were 
seated  on  two  long  rows  of  chairs  facing  each  other,  while  their 
attendant  cavahers  stood  immediately^  behind  them.  Each  held  a 
brimming  glass,  awaiting  patiently  till  the  time  should  arrive  for 
the  toast.  At  the  last  stroke  of  midnight  the  new  president 
of  the  club  stepped  forward  and  addressed  the  assembly.  As  he 
went  on  speaking  eloquently  of  the  high  honour  of  the  office  to 
which  he  had  been  elected,  the  duties  of  which  he  was  now  entering 
upon,  expatiating  on  the  dignity  of  the  position  and  the  halo  it 
spread  round  the  holder,  it  seemed  probable  that  all  the  spirit, 
as  well  as  the  sparkle,  would  evaporate  from  the  generous  wine 
before  any  of  the  guests  worjd  have  a  chance  of  capturing  it. 
When  at  last  he  made  an  end,  after  having  been  actively  engaged 
upon  his  new  duties  for  full  half  an  hour,  all  raised  their  glasses 
and  drank,  not  New  Year's  wishes  to  one  another,  but  to  the  success 
of  the  club  and  the  health  of  its  new  president. 

Dancing  was  resumed  when  the  glasses  had  been  drained  and 
114 


The  Panamanians 

wishes  exchanged  for  prosperity  and  happiness  during  the  coming 
year,  but  it  was  not  until  a  late  or,  rather,  early  hour  and  after  all 
the  ladies  had  been  served  with  supper  that  the  men  settled  down 
to  the  enjoyment  of  a  long-deferred  repast.  Bottle  after  bottle 
was  emptied,  and  each  one  round  the  festive  table  made  a  gallant 
effort  to  vie  with  his  neighbour  in  inventing  some  new  toast. 
Every  nationahty  represented  at  the  board  was  the  recipient 
of  lengthy  adulation,  and  if  the  good  feeling  voiced  by  all  present 
could  only  be  extended  to  the  courts  and  Governments  of  the 
world,  little  business  would  be  left  for  Peace  Congresses  to  transact. 

The  whole  of  the  first  of  January  was  devoted  to  a  round  of 
festivities,  and  the  powers  of  endurance  displayed  by  many  were 
amazing. 

Hard  or  even  moderate  drinking  is  said  to  be  a  dangerous 
habit  in  hot  countries,  and  the  medical  profession  is  almost 
unanimous  in  condemning  the  use  of  alcohol,  whilst  the  old  theory 
that  it  is  a  necessity  in  hot  climates  has  been  exploded  by  scientific 
investigation,  for  the  enlarged  liver  which  is  so  common  in  the 
torrid  zone  is  no  doubt  contributed  to  by  the  alcohoHc  habit. 

But  it  is  a  notorious  fact  that  inhabitants  of  countries  subject 
to  earthquakes  and  volcanoes  get  inured  to  all  idea  of  danger,  and 
walk  on  the  very  brink  of  disaster  with  a  light  and  merry  heart, 
indifferent  to  the  lessons  of  experience  or  the  fate  of  their  pre- 
decessors, and  on  that  New  Year's  Day  the  orgies  of  the  Buccaneers 
were  equalled,  if  not  excelled,  by  many  of  the  inhabitants. 

"  Where  the  longitude's  mean  and  the  latitude's  low, 
Where  the  hot  winds  of  summer  perennially  blow, 
Where  the  mercury  chokes  the  thermometer's  throat, 
And  the  dust  is  as  thick  as  the  hair  on  a  goat, 
W^here  one's  mouth  is  as  dry  as  a  mummy  accurst, 
There  iieth  the  Land  of  Perpetual  Thirst." 

At  midday  the  bandstand  in  the  Plaza  was  occupied  by  many 
of  the  leading  citizens,  who  with  musical  instruments,  upon 
which  they  were  incapable  of  performing,  were  making  an  un- 
earthly din,  and  had  attracted  a  crowd  of  the  common  people 
around  them.  Tables  laden  with  champagne  bottles  and  glasses 
were  placed  between  the  groups  of  performers,  who  were  not  less 
ardent  in  their  attentions  to  the  glass  than  to  the  instruments 
of  music  which  they  converted  into  engines  of  torture.  Whenever 
their  confused  vision  was  capable  of  distinguishing  friends  amongst 
the  passers-by,  an  effort  was  made  to  strengthen  their  forces  by 

"5 


A  Tour  through  South  America 

a  capture,  and  wise  persons  kept  in  the  background,  and  witnessed 
their  descent  upon  the  unwary.  Every  now  and  then  a  scuffle 
would  ensue,  and  those  who  fell  during  its  progress  were  content 
to  remain  in  the  positions  they  had  assumed,  to  the  amusement  of 
the  spectators. 

It  is  a  custom  to  make  good  resolutions  on  New  Year's  Day, 
and  to  turn  over  a  new  leaf.  On  the  following  morning,  although 
a  trifle  belated,  many  resolves  were  made,  and  the  penitents 
Tieartily  swore  that  nothing  on  earth  should  tempt  them  from  their 
vows.  The  fervour  with  which  they  denounced  the  cheering  cup, 
and  their  repugnance  to  it,  was  a  strong  illustration  of  the  proverb, 
"  Familiarity  breeds  contempt  "  ;  but  by  the  end  of  a  week  all 
traces  of  their  exertions  had  disappeared,  and  most  of  them  were 
as  ready  as  ever  to  face  manfully  any  other  duty  in  the  way  of 
celebration  that  occasion  might  present. 


IN    THE    MARKET,    PANAMA. 


ii6 


CHAPTER    IX 
Colombia  and  Cartagena 

IF  in  the  matter  of  details  the  history  of  Colombia — the  re- 
pubhc  in  the  extreme  north-west  corner  of  the  South  American 
continent — has  been  more  lurid  than  some  of  its  neighbours,  in 
general  outline  that  history  has  followed  the  course  with  which 
students  of  Spanish-American  affairs  are  so  familiar.  There  was, 
first,  the  discovery  of  the  territory  away  back  in  the  fifteenth 
century  by  Spanish  mariners,  and  its  subsequent  settlement  by 
colonists  from  the  mother  country.  Spain  always  started  this  work 
with  magnificent  enthusiasm,  but  the  feeling  of  rapture  over  the 
possession  of  new  dominions  soon  wore  off,  and  the  annals  of  these 
colonies  during  the  seventeenth  and  eighteenth  centuries  make 
drab  and  uninteresting  reading.  Colombia's  history  is  no  exception 
to  the  general  rule.  All  its  existing  cities  were  founded  during 
the  early  rule  of  the  conquistadores,  and  the  type  of  slavery 
imposed  upon  the  Indian  population  was  given  its  enduring 
shape.  No  great  developments  or  changes  occurred  in  the  country 
until  the  Spanish  rule  ended  and  independence  was  declared. 

Being  next-door  neighbour  to  Venezuela,  Colombia  was  naturally 
one  of  the  first  states  drawn  into  the  ambitious  operations  of 
Bolivar,  and  for  a  time  it  looked  as  though  its  capital,  Bogota, 
would  assume  a  predominant  importance  in  the  southern  con- 
tinent, but  the  liberator  underestimated  the  strong  sense  of 
nationality  which  had  developed  in  the  different  sections  of  the 
vast  country,  and  when  his  influence  died  down  Colombia  retained 
her  individuality  just  as  Venezuela  preserved  hers.  Not  only 
did  the  Spanish  sovereignty  entirely  disappear  from  the  State, 
but  the  name.  New  Granada,  given  to  it  by  the  early  conquerors, 
in  honour  of  the  province  in  the  mother  country,  was  changed  for 
the  more  American  substitute,  Colombia.    At  first  it  was  known 

117 


A  Tour  through  South  Ainerica 

as  the  **  United  States  of  Colombia,"  but  in  1886  a  reform  in  the 
direction  of  centrahsation  was  brought  about,  and  the  country  is 
now  called  "  the  Republic." 

The  mania  for  revolution  which  has  infected  the  inhabitants  of 
South  America  has  found  in  Colombia  very  amenable  material  to 


A    COLOMBIAN    MOTHER. 

work  upon.  For  years  during  the  last  century  stable  government 
was  a  thing  unknown  ;  rival  factions  were  always  springing  at 
each  other's  throats,  drenching  the  country  in  blood,  decimating 
its  population,  crippling  its  prosperity,  and  embarrassing  its 
finances.  Where  so  many  other  states  have  indulged  in  revolu- 
118 


Colombia  and  Cartagena 

tions,  it  is  dangerous  to  use  the  superlative  degree  ;  but  it  is 
fairly  safe  to  say  that  Colombia  has  been  facile  princeps  in  the 
insensate  arid  sanguinary  game.  Since  the  establishment  of  the 
constitution  in  1886,  however,  events  have  tended  a  little  towards 
tranquillity  and  security ;  but  it  would  be  much  too  sanguine 
to  dream  that  the  rival  parties,  the  Clericals  and  the  Liberals, 
have  become  sufficiently  reconciled  to  play  the  game  in  a  con- 
stitutional manner,  although  their  volcanic  passions  are  for  the 
moment  lying  dormant.  Now  that  the  United  States  have 
such  important  interests  in  the  adjacent  Isthmus  of  Panama,  the 
firebrands  of  Colombia  have  to  be  on  their  better  behaviour,  fcr 
the  "  big  stick  "  is  a  menace  which  they  are  bound  to  recognise. 
The  efforts  of  the  Government  to  render  the  country  less  hable 
to  disturbances  are  praiseworthy,  but  the  material  they  have  to 
handle  is  not  very  promising,  and  development  is  slow.  Railways 
are  very  gradually  connecting  up  places  in  the  interior.  The 
army  is  badly  equipped,  and  lack  of  funds  prevents  many  of  its 
most  urgent  needs  from  being  satisfied.  The  navy  cannot  be  said 
to  exist,  although  the  necessity  for  coast  defence  agitates  the 
mind  of  the  Government. 

A  slight  improvement  is,  however,  manifest  in  the  latest  budgets 
of  the  country,  but  the  task  of  making  "  both  ends  meet  "  is  a 
difficult  one.  If  the  republic  in  many  of  its  features  cannot 
compare  for  sheer  interest  with  its  neighbours,  it  has  yet  a  com- 
manding claim  to  the  attention  of  antiquarians,  for  it  possesses 
the  city  of  Cartagena,  which  was  the  most  ancient  and  strongest 
of  the  Spanish  power  in  South  America.  The  renown  of  the 
city's  prototype  in  Spain,  itself  inheriting  the  name  of  the  still 
more  ancient  and  famous  colony,  Carthage,  was  transplanted 
to  the  New  World,  and  for  two  centuries  it  enjoyed  the  esteem 
of  the  whole  maritime  world.  Its  sun-bleached  walls  still  endure, 
stern  rehcs  of  the  power  of  Spain.  Belonging  entirely  to  the  past, 
it  has  escaped  unharmed  the  vandal  hand  of  progress.  Sur- 
rounded on  all  sides  with  walls,  it  gave  shelter  to  the  great  "  plate  " 
ships  and  their  convoys  which  anchored  within  its  land-locked 
waters.  There  are  three  harbours,  which  together  extend  for  some 
nine  miles  from  north  to  south,  and  have  a  surface  of  nearly 
forty  thousand  acres.  The  situation  was  well  chosen,  for  although 
the  waters  of  the  Caribbean  form  the  western  boundary  of  the 
city,  great  rocks  protect  it  from  the  approach  of  ships  ;  and  of  the 

119 


A  Tour  through  South  America 

two  entrances  to  the  harbour,  the  Boca  Grande  and  Boca  Chica, 
only  the  latter  is  of  sufficient  depth  to  allow  the  passage  of  vessels 
of  any  size.  The  middle  harbour  is  protected  by  two  forts, 
and  the  narrow  entrance  to  the  shallow  waters  of  the  inner  har- 
bour was  an  additional  protection  to  the  city  which  lies  within. 
To  the  east  of  the  city,  standing  upon  a  formidable  hill,  is  the 
fort  of  San  Lazar,  whilst  on  another  hill  about  a  mile  away  stands 
an  ancient  convent.  Although  the  city  stands  upon  flat  ground, 
it  has  a  magnificent  panorama  of  undulating  hills  spread  before  it. 
Innumerable  islets,  bays,  and  capes  fill  the  great  harbour,  and  as 
the  steamer  makes  its  way  across  the  smooth  waters  it  passes 
many  of  the  loveliest  bits  of  tropical  scenery  to  be  found  any- 
where. Cartagena  formerly  possessed  untold  wealth  ;  rich  and 
powerful  merchants  prospered  within  its  protecting  walls.  Its 
fame  was  world-wide,  and  attracted  the  unwelcome  attentions 
of  the  pirates,  adventurers,  and  privateers  of  the  sixteenth 
century.  Sir  Francis  Drake  captured  the  city  by  one  of  the  most 
daring  assaults  recorded  in  the  annals  of  piracy,  and  the  very 
defences  thrown  up  by  the  garrison  proved  helpful  to  his  purpose. 
As  the  Spaniards  retreated  from  the  hard-pressing  invaders,  they 
fell  upon  the  poisoned  stakes  they  had  driven  into  the  ground,  and 
their  bodies  made  a  soft  foothold  for  the  English.  The  Cartagenians, 
dismayed  and  demoraHsed,  fled  in  all  directions,  and  the  city  fell 
into  the  hands  of  Drake,  who  profited  by  the  adventure  to  the  tune 
of  one  hundred  thousand  ducats,  which  added  to  the  store  of  gold 
and  glory  he  had  already  acquired  upon  the  Spanish  Main.  The 
wealth  of  Cartagena  had  an  irresistible  attraction  to  all  kinds  of 
enemies  which  even  its  strong  fortifications  could  not  dispel. 
Ten  years  after  it  was  founded  by  Heredia  it  was  captured  by 
the  French.  In  1586  Drake,  fresh  from  humbhng  the  Spanish 
pride  at  Vigo  and  San  Domingo,  here  repeated  his  successes. 
Again,  at  the  end  of  the  seventeenth  century  the  French  took  the 
city  and  obtained  over  a  million  of  money.  The  power  of  the 
mother  country  was  rapidly  declining  during  the  following  century. 
Her  home  and  foreign  policy  had  so  aroused  the  bitter  antagonism 
of  England  that  peace  between  the  two  countries  was  impossible. 
The  war  of  "Jenkins's  ear"  arose  ostensibly  over  the  treatment 
meted  out  to  smugglers  by  the  Spanish  coastguards.  The  story 
told  by  Jenkins  of  his  having  his  ear  cut  off  fanned  the 
smouldering  indignation  of  the  English  people  into  a  flame,  and 
120 


Colombia  and  Cartagena 

Walpole  was  reluctantly  compelled  by  the  popular  clamour  to 
declare  war.  In  October,  1739,  the  operations  were  entrusted  to 
Admiral  Vernon,  a  fiery  old  sailor  who  gloried  in  his  motto,  "  No 
peace  with  Spain."  Old  Grog,  as  he  was  familiarly  called  by  his 
contemporaries,  was  a  gallant  enough  seaman,  although  a  httle 
given  to  bragging  and  blustering.  He  pledged  himself  to  take 
Porto  Bello  ;  and  when  he  accomplished  this  feat  with  the  small 
loss  of  seven  men,  medals  were  struck  in  honour  of  him  and  his 
victory. 

Popular  enthusiasm  hailed  him  as  a  hero,  and  the  public  hero 
was  returned  to  Parhament  by  a  large  majority.  In  the  following 
year,  with  a  larger  squadron  under  his  command,  he  set  sail  for 
Cartagena,  confident  in  his  power  to  take  the  city.  He  met  with  a 
stubborn  resistance,  however,  and  although  he  succeeded  in 
capturing  Fort  San  Fernando  that  guards  the  Boca  Chica,  his 
further  advances  were  repulsed.  General  Wentworth,  who 
accompanied  the  fleet  in  charge  of  the  land  forces,  had  serious 
differences  with  "  Old  Grog,"  and  these  were  not  calculated  to 
help  matters.  A  company  of  soldiers  were  landed  to  take  Fort 
San  Lazar,  but  they  were  obliged  to  retreat,  leaving  two  hundred 
dead  and  having  over  four  hundred  wounded.  To  add  to  the 
discomfiture  of  the  EngHsh,  yellow  fever  broke  out  and  wroug^ht 
great  havoc,  and  the  last  attempt  to  capture  the  city  proving 
unavailing,  the  fleet  gave  up  the  enterprise,  retired  from  the 
harbour,  and  made  their  way  to  Jamaica,  glad  to  escape  the 
warmth  of  their  reception  and  the  enervating  heat  of  the  bay. 

Cartagena  is  one  of  the  most  picturesque,  if  one  of  the  most 
insalubrious  cities,  in  South  America.  It  is  Spanish  throughout, 
and  contains  few  modern  buildings  of  any  importance.  The 
atmosphere  of  bygone  centuries  hangs  over  it ;  time  and  the 
elements  have  imparted  a  richness  to  its  walls  that  constitutes 
its  only  charm.  It  is  hke  an  old  painting  by  a  master  hand,  mellow 
and  sedate.  In  the  joints  and  cracks  of  its  discoloured  walls, 
creepers,  w^eds,  and  mosses  find  root-hold  and  nourishment. 
The  buttresses,  bastions,  battlements,  and  sentry  towers  that 
strengthen  and  equip  the  ramparts,  all  give  evidence  of  the  im- 
portant part  the  city  was  designed  to  play  in  the  colonial  system 
of  Spain.  The  entrance  to  the  city  from  the  little  harbour  is 
through  a  gateway  of  three  arches  of  imposing  proportions. 
The  larger  central  archway  is  for  mules,  horses,  and  vehicular 

121 


A  Toitr  through  Soitth  America 

traffic,  the  two  smaller  ones  for  pedestrians.  The  Plaza  de  los 
Coches,  the  square  to  which  the  gateway  gives  immediate  entrance, 
is  surrounded  by  an  arched  colonnade  that  gives  a  deep  shade  to 
the  pavement,  shops,  and  stores.  A  stream  of  dark,  swarthy,  and 
yellow  humanity  flows  through  the  open  space.  The  bright 
dresses  of  the  negresses  blazing  in  the  sunlight  stand  out  vividly 
from  the  dark  shadows  of  the  arches  and  doorways.  The  white 
dust  of  the  streets  dazzles  the  eye,  and  the  gloom  of  the  narrow 
streets  that  lead  in  all  directions  is  intensified  by  the  sharp  con- 
trast. The  streets  are  fairly  well  paved,  but  very  unclean  and 
evil  smelling.     Quaint  balconies  overhang  the  pavements,   and 


A    COLOMBIAN    VILLAGE. 


through  the  lattices  dark,  sleepy  eyes  gaze  languidly  at  the 
passers-by.  The  heat  is  almost  unendurable  during  the  summer 
months,  and  the  inhabitants  are  to  be  excused  if  they  lack  energy 
and  indulge  themselves  freely  in  the  use  of  hammocks  and  easy 
rocking-chairs.  The  fine  white  dust  that  covers  the  streets  in  the 
dry  season  becomes  a  kind  of  mud-like  mortar  when  the  torrential 
rains  descend,  and  the  tatterdemalion  shoeblacks  reap  their 
harvests.  Most  of  the  houses  in  the  narrow  streets  are  of  two 
stories,  and  are  painted  with  vivid  primary  colours  so  dear  to 
Spanish  eyes.  When  fresh  applied  these  colours  are  Winding  in 
their  intensity,  particularly  when  the  sunlight  falls  upon  them, 
but  when  faded  and  weather-stained  they  become  really  beautiful. 
The  red  of  the  pantiles  on  the  roofs,  the  vivid  greens  and  blues 

122 


Colombia  and  Cartagena 

of  balconies  and  doors,  give  a  sparkle  to  this  otherwise  grey  city. 
The  windows  of  the  lower  floors  are  grilled  with  the  usual  iron  or 
wooden  bars,  and  the  interiors  are  but  poorly  furnished,  with  one 
or  two  chairs  and  tables.  Through  open  doors,  green  patios  are 
seen  filled  with  plants  and  palms,  which  cover  much  of  the 
accumulated  dirt,  rubbish,  and  garbage.  It  is  amidst  these 
surroundings  that  famihes  sit  and  take  their  siestas  or  oily  smelling 
repasts.  The  rooms  are  dirty  and  the  kitchens  full  of  smoke  or 
odours,  so  that  with  the  freely  circulating  air  the  patio  is  the 
most  desirable  part  of  the  house.  A  French  writer  of  the  last 
century  who  visited  the  city  said  of  the  town,  that  it  contained 
"  skilful  jewellers,  good  carpenters,  excellent  shoemakers,  tolerable 
tailors,  indifferent  joiners,  black  rather  than  white  smiths,  masons 
destitute  of  ideas  of  proportion,  bad  painters,  but  impassioned 
musicians."  If  this  was  true  of  the  inhabitants  of  one  hundred 
years  ago,  it  might  with  considerable  aptness  be  applied  to  their 
descendants  to-day.  The  arts  and  crafts  are  in  a  poor  way,  but 
they  still  love  music.  The  population  of  the  whole  of  Colombia 
has  a  lot  of  black  blood  running  through  its  veins  ;  and  as  is  the 
case  elsewhere  where  the  same  mixture  exists,  it  is  rare  to  find 
much  culture  or  refinement.  The  women  of  Cartagena,  the 
half-breeds,  mulattoes,  and  octoroons,  are  tall  and  hthe,  often  very 
handsome,  resembling  the  types  of  Martinique  more  than  those 
of  the  English  islands  of  the  Caribbean.  The  whites  so  called 
and  coloured  people  mix  freely  with  one  another,  and  no  defined 
colour-line  seems  to  exist.  In  Cartagena  the  old  order  is  loath  to 
give  place  to  the  new,  although  in  many  cases  new  uses  have  been 
found  for  old  buildings.  Erstwhile  forts  are  now  common  dwell- 
ings ;  stately  buildings  have  been  turned  into  shops  and  ware- 
houses, churches  and  chapels  into  stables.  The  cathedral,  an 
imposing  building  with  a  magnificent  altar-piece  and  many  curi- 
ous rehcs  of  the  past,  stands  out  conspicuously  from  the  other 
buildings  in  the  town.  In  its  dark  vaults  are  great  piles  of  human 
skulls  and  bones,  the  crumbling  remains  of  victims  of  the  Inquisi- 
tion, which  exercised  its  terrible  power  in  the  early  days  of  the  city. 
These  mouldering  bones  have  little  respect  shown  them  by  the 
verger  of  the  church,  who  turns  them  over  with  his  foot  to  pick  out 
specimens  to  show  to  visitors,  and  anyone  who  cares  can  possess  a 
souvenir.  There  is  a  cemetery  on  a  flat,  sandy  site,  a  little  way 
out  of  the  city,  surrounded  by  white  walls.    The  enclosed  space 

123 


A  Tour  through  South  America 

is  a  field  of  soft  yielding  sand,  which  the  wind  drives  about  so  that 
graves  are  covered  and  uncovered  from  time  to  time,  and  often 
the  tops  of  the  iron  crosses  that  mark  the  graves  are  barely  visible 
above  the  yellow  dust.  Around  the  walls  are  a  series  of  oven-like 
vaults,  three  deep,  some  sealed  with  bricks  or  plaster,  others, 
although  containing  cofhns,  left  open  to  the  view.  A  more 
revolting,  unsanitary  burial-place  could  hardly  be  imagined. 
Yet  in  spite  of  the  terrible  epidemics  of  yellow  fever  and  smallpox 


:e  banks  of  the  magdalena  river. 


to  which  the  inhabitants  are  inured,  they  regard  this  plague  spot 
\vith  perfect  equanimity.  Cartagena  was  for  many  years  the 
starting-point  from  the  northern  coast  for  Bogota,  the  capital,  but 
Barranquilla  has  taken  its  place  in  this  respect.  The  journey 
up  the  Magdalena  River  is  made  in  small  steamers,  although  much 
of  the  merchandise  is  carried  still  in  large  canoes  about  thirty  feet 
long.  "  Piraguas,"  as  these  craft  are  locally  called,  have  generally 
two  masts  which  carry  large,  square  sails,  and  are  manned  by  a 
crew  who  can  take  an  oar  when  the  wind  fails.  The  navigation 
124 


Colombia  and  Cartagena 

of  the  river  is  not  free  from  danger,  and  often  the  journey  up  to 
Bogota  takes  about  four  weeks.  The  roads  in  the  country  are  bad, 
where  they  do  exist,  so  that  the  river  is  the  principal  highway. 
The  country  people  cultivate  a  little  cotton,  maize,  and  indigo, 
but  the  agriculture  of  the  country  is  generally  in  a  very  backward 
state.  Isolated  dwellings  are  pitched  by  the  banks  of  the  river, 
and  the  inmates  live  a  short  if  sad  life,  weaving  a  few  mats  for 
household  use,  nets  for  hammocks  and  for  fishing.  Their  houses, 
mostly  of  reeds  and  bamboos,  afford  but  the  shghtest  protection 
from  the  heavy  torrential  rains.  Cartagena,  far  removed  from  the 
capital,  is  a  listless,  almost  lifeless  city,  and  the  foreigner  who  tries 
to  make  business  headway  amongst  the  people  is  doomed  to 
cultivate  patience,  if  he  intends  to  remain  in  one  of  the  most 
backward  of  the  cities  on  the  southern  continent. 


125 


CHAPTER   X 

Ecuador 

FROM  Panama  the  steamers  of  the  Pacific  mail  start  on  their 
voyage  down  the  long  Pacific  coast.  That  they  should 
carry  a  curious  medley  of  passengers  is  only  natural,  seeing  that 
they  stop  at  the  ports  of  four  repubhcs.  So  numerous  are  these 
ports  that  some  of  the  steamers  have  to  miss  many  of  them,  and 
smaller  coastal  vessels  serve  the  needs  of  the  few  voyagers  who 
visit  the  smaller  and  more  insignificant  places  ;  but  still  there  are 
enough  stoppages  to  enable  the  voyager  to  see  something  of  the 
curious  coast  towns,  even  if  he  has  no  time  to  penetrate  into  the 
interior  of  all  the  republics.  The  changes  in  the  character  of  the 
coast  from  the  tropical  mountain-slopes  of  the  north  to  the  dry- 
aired  coast  of  the  mid-continent  are  the  distinguishing  features 
of  the  voyage.  Travellers  from  Valparaiso  are  filled  with  admira- 
tion and  dehght  when  their  eyes  rest  upon  the  sea-board  of 
Ecuador  and  Colombia,  for  after  the  arid  monotony  of  the  Chilian 
and  Peruvian  coast-lines,  where  scarcely  ever  a  drop  of  rain  falls 
to  freshen  the  verdure,  the  change  is  to  a  tropical  paradise.  The 
expanse  of  glorious  greenery  refreshes  the  vision — an  exhilarating 
exchange  from  the  dun-coloured  vistas  which  have  been  left 
behind.  Guayaquil,  the  principal  port  of  Ecuador,  is  one  of  the 
best  situated  on  the  whole  of  the  Pacific  littoral,  but,  unfortunately, 
is  perhaps  the  most  unhealthy.  It  lies  on  the  bank  of  the  Guayas 
River,  nearly  thirty  miles  from  the  bar.  The  city  is  large  for  a 
South  American  port,  and  has  a  population  of  over  sixty  thou- 
sand, and  a  railway  connects  it  with  the  capital  of  the  republic, 
Quito.  The  city  of  Guayaquil  is  badly  drained,  insanitary,  and 
swarms  with  the  germs  of  disease.  Its  authorities  do  little  or 
nothing  to  improve  the  health  conditions,  and  the  recent  decision 
of  the  United  States  Government  to  insist  upon  drastic  improve- 
ments being  carried  out  will  be  hailed  by  all  who  have  traffic 

127 


A  l^oitr  through  South  America 

with  this  port.  When  the  Panama  Canal  is  opened,  it  is  only 
natural  that  Guayaquil  will  assume  a  new  maritime  importance, 
and  it  is  obviously  impossible  for  such  a  pestilential  hole  to 
continue  so  near  to  the  great  connecting  link  between  the  Atlantic 
and  the  Pacific. 

The  history  of  Ecuador  runs  on  parallel  lines  with  that  of  the 
other  South  American  republics,  and  its  fortunes  have  been 
closely  interwoven  with  those  of  its  neighbours,  Peru  and  Colombia. 
Its  aboriginal  inhabitants — Indians  of  a  very  low  order— were,  so 
the  legendary  history  runs,  subjugated  early  in  the  Christian  Era 
by  a  superior  race  named  the  Caras,  who  in  their  turn  were  reduced 
to  subjection  by  those  aristocrats  of  South  America,  the  Incas  of 
Peru.  Ecuador  was  part  of  the  disputed  territory  which  led  to  the 
sanguinary  struggle  between  Atahualpa  and  his  brother  Huascar, 
a  struggle  which  gave  Pizarro  his  opportunity  of  conquering 
Peru.  The  conquistadores  enslaved  the  Indians  of  Ecuador,  and 
found  them  more  docile  and  complacent  than  those  of  any  of 
the  allied  tribes  in  South  America.  The  Roman  Catholic  priest- 
hood established  churches,  schools,  and  seminaries,  scattering 
these  institutions  about  with  such  a  lavish  hand  that  Quito,  the 
capital,  has  been  aptly  called  "The  City  of  Convents."  The  natives 
accepted  the  Spanish  yoke,  and  toiled  as  hard  as  they  were  obliged 
to  satisfy  the  exactions  of  the  alien  governors.  They  were  among 
the  very  last  to  feel  the  revolutionary  impulses  which  were  born 
when  the  power  of  Spain  was  broken,  and  it  was  not  until  the 
Argentine  General  San  Martin,  and  after  him  Bolivar,  had 
kindled  the  torch  of  liberty,  that  Ecuador  made  any  attempt  to 
break  away  from  its  old  allegiance.  It  was  too  near  to  many  other 
insurgent  areas  to  stand  aloof  from  the  movement,  and  it  has 
the  distinction  of  being  the  second  South  American  republic 
whose  independence  was  formerly  recognised  by  Spain.  Its 
history  since  then  has  been  turbulent,  but  few  of  the  men  who 
have  been  thrown  up  by  the  seething  mass  of  successive  revolu- 
tions have  been  of  outstanding  calibre.  The  bulk  of  them  have 
been  self-seekers,  degraded  of  character  and  mean  of  intellect. 
Advancement  has  striven  with  reaction,  and  the  victory  has 
generally  been  to  the  latter,  with  the  result  that  Ecuador  is  the 
worst  governed  and 'most  backward  of  all  the  South  American 
countries.  Of  course,  a  few  men  stand  out  as  having  something 
approaching  statesmanlike  qualities.  It  would  be  strange  if  it 
128 


Ecuador 

were  otherwise,  for  nearly  a  hundred  years  have  passed  since 
Ecuador  was  left  to  work  out  its  own  salvation.  On  the  hberal 
side,  Rocafuerte,  the  first  President,  has  some  claims  to  be  re- 
membered, for  he  did  much  to  estabhsh  the  constitution  by  which 
the  country  is  governed,  and  to  found  institutions  modelled  on 


those  existing  in  more  enhghtened  countries.  Moreno,  who  seized 
the  supreme  power  in  i860  and  held  it  for  fifteen  years,  is  the 
greatest  figure  on  the  reactionary  side.  Although  he  had  little  or 
no  conception  of  individual  liberty,  he  proved  himself  a  capable 
administrator,  and  since  his  assassination  at  the  instigation  of  the 
revolting  liberals,  Ecuador  has  not  produced  the  article  which  she 
I  129 


A  Tour  through  South  America 

so  badly  requires,  ''  the  still  strong  man  in  a  blatant  land." 
It  is  the  case  of  an  unceasing  see-saw  between  the  contending 
parties  or  factions,  but  always  the  liberal  regime  is  short-lived, 
for  the  reactionaries  or  clericals  have  a  strong  hold  upon  the 
people.  At  the  moment  reaction  reigns  supreme,  and  the  events 
of  January,  191 2,  tidings  of  which  have  leaked  out  from  Quito 
and  Guayaquil  by  way  of  the  Madrid  journals,  reveal  an  exhibition 
of  savagery  which  is  almost  incredible.  The  Generals,  Alfano  and 
Montero,  who  headed  the  latest  liberal  revolt,  were  hopelessly 
defeated  by  the  Government  forces,  and  then  the  authorities  set 
about  devising  fitting  punishments  for  them.  We  read  that 
Montero,  the  President  of  the  dissolved  revolutionary  Junta, 
was  dragged  out  of  prison  and  taken  to  a  public  street.  A  huge 
fire,  already  lit,  awaited  him,  and  the  General  was  flung  into  it 
despite  his  desperate  resistance  and  cries  of  horror.  When  he  was 
already  half  burnt  alive,  he  was  fished  out  of  the  fire  and  flung 
into  a  vat  of  water  to  cool.  He  was  again  dragged  forth  and 
thrown  back  into  the  fire,  and  before  the  end  came  his  martyrdom 
had  lasted  an  hour.  This  was  at  Guayaquil.  At  Quito,  the  capital, 
hidden  away  on  the  slopes  of  a  volcanic  mountain,  200  miles  from 
the  sea-board,  even  worse  horrors  were  perpetrated.  The  favourite 
torture  was  cutting  out  the  victims'  tongues  and  then  taunting 
them  to  make  a  speech.  The  newspaper  correspondents,  even 
those  representing  the  Ecuadorian  Government  journals,  confessed 
themselves  horrified  at  the  barbarities  they  had  to  witness. 
One  of  them  remarked,  "  If  the  events  which  we  were  condemned 
to  witness  yesterday  happened  once  in  twenty  or  once  in  ten  years, 
we  should  feel  compelled  to  emigrate  from  this  country."  These 
well-nigh  incredible  happenings  occurred  in  January,  191 2,  and 
are  not  a  lurid  excerpt  from  a  page  of  the  history  of  the  Dark  Ages. 
The  only  hope  for  Ecuador's  salvation  Hes  in  its  proximity  to 
Panama.  If  the  United  States  in  1898  put  an  end  to  Spanish 
misgovernment  in  Cuba  on  the  pretext  that  they  could  not  allow 
butcheries  to  go  on  at  their  door,  there  is  all  the  stronger  reason  that 
a  vigilant  eye  should  be  kept  on  affairs  in  Ecuador,  which  lies 
so  close  to  the  great  highway,  in  itself  a  symbol  of  modern  civilisa- 
tion, and  all  that  it  entails  in  the  way  of  order,  justice,  and  good 
government. 


30 


CHAPTER   XI 

'^The  City  of  the  Kings  " 

ABOUT  1500  miles  down  the  coast  from  Panama  lies  Callao, 
jlV  the  principal  port  of  Peru,  a  large  and  busy  town,  by  far 
the  most  imposing  upon  the  seaboard  of  that  country.  The  first 
town,  which  stood  about  a  mile  from  the  present  one,  was  destroyed 
b}^  an  unusually  violent  earthquake  shock  in  1746.  The  port  of 
to-day  is  fast  adopting  modern  improvements,  and  most  of  the 
old  mud  and  wickerwork  houses  have  been  replaced  by  substantial 
modern  dwellings,  and  the  docks  and  shipping  facilities  have 
^own  to  meet  the  increasing  needs  of  the  country.  An  electric 
tramway  line  connects  Callao  with  the  capital,  running  over  a 
beautiful,  richly  cultivated  plain.  The  road  is  wide  and  straight, 
and  lined  on  either  side  with  walls  constructed  with  great  adobe 
bricks.  Cattle  and  husbandmen  populate  the  fields,  w^hich  are 
irrigated  by  many  streams.  "  La  Ciudad  de  las  Reyes  "  was  the 
name  bestowed  by  Pizarro  on  the  city  that  is  to-day  called  "  Lima," 
a  corruption  of  the  Indian  word  "  Rimac,"  the  name  of  the  river 
upon  which  the  capital  stands.  Lima  retains  more  than  any  other 
city  in  Spanish  America  the  subtle  melancholy  dignity  so  charac- 
teristic of  the  towns  of  Andalusia.  The  whole  atmosphere  is 
Spanish,  and  even  the  influence  which  the  indigenous  art  of  the 
conquered  race  had  upon  most  of  the  architecture  that  arose 
in  other  cities  after  the  conquest  failed  to  make  itself  felt  in  "  La 
Ciudad  de  las  Reyes."  Time  has  not  wrought  many  changes  in 
the  city,  and  it  still  preserves  its  ancient  aspect.  Even  the  archi- 
tects of  new  buildings  that  have  arisen  have  not  been  able  to 
escape  entirely  from  the  old  traditions,  and  they  adopt  timidly 
the  cosmopoUtan  styles  which  have  been  so  largely  made  use  of 
in  such  cities  as  Valparaiso,  Buenos  Ayres,  Rio,  and  Sao  Paulo. 

131 


A  Tour  thro7tgh  Sotith  America 

The  central  and  most  important  square  in  the  city,  the  Plaza  de 
Armas,  is  full  of  the  old  atmosphere.  The  long,  soUd  building 
which  occupies  one  side  of  the  square  continues  to  be  the  seat 
of  the  Republican  Government,  as  it  was  formerly  that  of  the 
Viceroy  of  Spain.  The  square  is  well  shaded  by  leafy  palms, 
which,  in  spite  of  the  scarcity  of  rain,  have  a  freshness  that  is 
astonishing,  and  can  only  be  accounted  for  by  the  moist 
atmosphere  which  hovers  over  the  city.  Some  j^ears  ago  all  the 
trees  and  shrubs  in  this  square  were  cut  down  by  order  of  nervous 
officials,  who  doubtless  having  in  their  minds  the  great  tragedy 
enacted  on  this  spot  when  Pizarro  fell  a  victim  to  the  conspiracy 
of  his  fellow-countrymen,  saw  a  danger  in  the  sheltering  trees 
which  might  conceal  armed  assassins  and  conspirators  against  the 
Government.  The  cathedral,  with  its  two  towers  and  richly  ornate 
fac^ade,  occupies  the  eastern  side  of  the  Plaza.  It  is  the  oldest 
church  in  the  New  World.  The  shocks  of  earthquakes  and  revolu- 
tions have  failed  to  shake  its  strong  foundations  or  massive  walls. 
Inside  the  spacious  aisles  divided  by  plain  and  solid  columns 
convey  a  sense  of  mysterious  dignity  and  strength  which  highly 
gilded  and  ornamental  interiors  lack.  A  strong  smell  of  burning 
incense  pervades  the  silent  building,  and  brown-robed  monks 
glide  noiselessly  through  the  gloom.  One  of  the  brotherhood,  a 
German,  piloted  me  through  the  building,  and  showed  with  pride 
the  fine  choir  stalls,  whose  rich  carving  so  excited  the  admiration 
of  an  American  rnillionaire  that,  according  to  my  informant,  one 
was  sold  to  him  for  a  hundred  dollars,  an  act  of  vandahsm  which 
it  is  to  be  hoped  will  never  be  repeated,  although  my  guide  seemed 
to  think  it  was  good  business.  An  old  illuminated  Psalter  of  the 
late  sixteenth  or  early  seventeenth  century  standing  on  the  reading- 
desk  in  front  of  the  choir  was  pointed  out,  its  leaves  all  scribbled 
over  with  the  sprawling  autographs  of  tourists,  and  anyone  wishing 
to  add  his  name  could  doubtless  have  done  so  without  any  re- 
monstrance from  the  priest.  Of  all  the  relics  this  ancient  edifice 
contains,  perhaps  the  most  extraordinary  is  the  actual  body  of 
Pizarro,  contained  in  a  glass  case,  which  permits  the  visitor  to 
inspect  the  very  bones  of  the  illustrious  founder  of  the  city. 

Churches,  monasteries,  convents,  and  other  religious  houses 
abound  in  Lima.  Monks  and  nuns  attached  to  the  different 
orders  promenade  its  streets,  which  are  lined  with  solidly  built 
houses,  through  the  wide-open  doorways  of.  which  interesting 
132 


A   PERUVIAN   GIRL. 


A  Tottr  through  South  America 

patios  are  visible,  many  of  them  smTounded  by  little  galleries, 
supported  by  turned  and  carved  wooden  pillars,  whilst  the  fronts 
of  some  are  enriched  with  projecting  wooden  balconies,  after  the 
Moorish  style,  only  more  substantially  constructed,  and  having 
heavy  tiled  roofs  and  buttressed  sides  ;  these  features,  together 
with  the  strong  doors  studded  with  iron  bosses  and  spikes,  and 
the  windows  railed  with  solid  bars,  betray  an  Eastern  origin. 
The  city  is  full  of  ancient  houses  and  palaces  which  have  been 
converted  into  tenements,  each  doorway  in  the  patio  giving 
entrance  to  a  separate  household.  The  city  has  a  population  of 
about  140,000,  and  their  wants  are  supplied  by  four  market- 
places, where  a  large  variety  of  meats,  birds,  fish,  vegetables,  and 
fruits  are  for  sale.  Electric  cars  run  through  the  ancient  streets, 
and  brush  past  mule  trains,  with  their  heavy  loads  and  picturesque 
trappings,  whilst  the  milkwomen,  who  sit  perched  up  between 
great  shining  tins  slung  across  the  backs  of  their  horses,  have 
hardly  recovered  from  the  shock  of  seeing  motor-cars  whir  past 
them.  The  capital  contains  the  oldest  university,  as  well  as  the 
oldest  cathedral  in  South  America,  and  for  over  three  centuries 
it  has  been  the  centre  of  learning  and  education.  The  development 
of  the  latter  in  many  of  its  branches  has  been  steady,  if  slow,  and 
the  establishment  of  the  National  Institute  of  Peru  and  the 
Museum  is  doing  much  to  further  the  study  of  the  anthropology 
and  archaeology  of  the  country.  In  the  museum,  a  handsome 
building  lying  at  the  extreme  south  of  the  city,  a  collection  of 
Inca  curios  has  been  brought  together.  Mummies,  swathed  in 
vicuna  cloth  and  highly  decorated,  looking  like  a  row  of  "  Aunt 
Sallies,"  occupy  a  prominent  place,  and  the  well-preserved 
remains  of  bodies  found  in  the  nitrate  fields  are  interesting, 
although  a  little  gruesome.  Ancient  fabrics  with  archaic  designs, 
probably  hieroglyphics,  pan-pipes,  earthenware  pots,  gold  orna- 
ments, all  teUing  of  vanished  civihsation.  The  costumes  of  the 
country  since  the  conquest,  bizarre  and  curious,  whilst  the  finely 
wrought  specimens  of  vicuna. gloves  and  masks  used  by  travellers 
crossing  the  cold  heights  of  the  mountains  are  very  ingenious. 
The  picture  gallery  contains  many  portraits  of  illustrious  Peru- 
vians and  historical  tableaux,  but  these  are  of  more  archaeological 
than  artistic  value.  The  National  Library,  which  has  been  es- 
tabhshed  about  a  hundred  years,  contained  originally  many  rare 
and  valuable  manuscripts  and  books,  many  of  which  had  been 

134 


*'  The  City  of  the  Kings'' 

obtained  from  the  monasteries  in  the  country  ;  but  this  nucleus 
of  a  fine  national  collection  was  stolen  by  the  Chihan  army  when 
they  invaded  the  capital  in  1881,  many  items  finding  their  way 
down  to  Santiago,  the  rest  being  sold  at  upset  prices  to  the  shop- 
keepers in  the  capital.  Nothing  daunted  by  this,  the  people  of 
Lima  started  afresh  to  form  the  present  collection  of  over  50,000 


THE   CATHEDRAL,    LIMA. 


works,  all  of  the  available  portions  of  the  original  library  having 
been  repurchased  to  restore  in  some  measure  the  unique  character 
of  the  collection.  The  environs  of  Lima  are  very  pleasant.  The 
vast  plain  upon  which  the  city  stands  is  well  cultivated,  and 
sowing  goes  on  for  nine  months  of  the  year.  Little  villages  and 
hamlets  with  unpretentious  houses  and  huts.  The  walls  of  the 
houses,  like  those  which  divide  the  fields,  have  a  very  soHd  and 

135 


A  Tour  through  South  America 

antique  appearance.  The  brown  mud  colour  is  a  feature  which 
at  once  suggests  the  dominant  characteristic  of  the  old  Moorish 
cities. 

Peru  is  unfortunate  in  having  much  of  her  territory  inaccessible 
from  the  Pacific  or  from  the  capital,  and  the  difficulties  of  ad- 


A    MILKMAID,    LIMA. 


ministering  her  wild  forest  lands  on  the  eastern  slopes  of  the 
Cordillera  have  led  to  the  rubber  scandals  recently  brought  to 
light.  The  difficulty  of  communicating  with  the  heart  of  their 
country  is  common  to  all  the  South  American  repubhcs.  Brazil 
has  her  Matto  Grosso  and  Acre  territories ;  Argentina  and  Chih 

136 


**  The  City  of  the  Kings'' 

the  great  desolate  pampas  of  the  south  ;  and  Venezuela,  Colombia, 
Ecuador,  the  same  problems  with  regard  to  much  of  their  territory. 
Great  tracts  of  the  vast  continent  are  still  unknown  and  unexplored ; 
and  even  when  they  are,  many  of  them  will  offer  httle  or  no  induce- 
ment for  civilised  settlement.  Undreamt-of  mysteries  may  exist 
hidden  in  the  depths  of  the  almost  impenetrable  forests.  Ex- 
plorers are  busy  in  the  country  deUmiting  boundaries  and  in- 
vestigating untrodden  regions,  and  the  difficulties  they  encounter 
all  point  to  the  almost  impossibility  of  bringing  many  of  the 
large  tracts  under  the  influences  of  modern  civilisation.  The 
early  conquistadors  were  unrestrained  by  scruples  in  their 
treatment  of  native  races,  but  the  modern  Governments  have  the 
eyes  of  a  more  humane  and  censorious  world  upon  them.  Immi- 
grants are  eagerly  desired  by  the  Peruvian  Government  to  develop 
the  vast  agricultural  lands  for  the  production  of  sugar,  cotton, 
hnseed,  rice,  tobacco,  coffee,  vines,  fruits,  and  vegetables.  On 
the  high  lands,  where  cattle  can  be  raised,  there  is  a  great  demand 
for  suitable  labour.  Indeed,  from  the  north  of  the  continent  to 
the  south  the  cr}^  is  for  workers.  Nature  having  done  her  share 
to  enrich  the  race,  now  only  waits  for  mankind  to  avail  themselves 
of  her  bounty. 


137 


CHAPTER  XII 

Peru — "  The  Country  of  Marvels  " 

FROM  Tumbez  to  Callao,  the  country  presents  a  most  arid 
and  uninviting  appearance.  The  high,  steep  hills  near  to 
the  shore  extend  in  an  almost  unbroken  line  of  dull  greyish  brown, 
as  the  sun-baked  clay,  with  here  and  there  patches  of  dirty  white 
indicating  guano  deposits.  I  must  confess  to  a  feeling  of  dis- 
appointment on  first  gazing  upon  the  inhospitable  shores  of  Peru. 
For  my  mind  treasured  recollections  of  all  the  glamour  and 
romance  that  gather  round  the  land  and  the  history  of  the 
wonderful  Incas. 

The  world's  records  contain  few  more  fairy-like  narratives 
than  the  well  attested  story  of  a  civilisation  equal  in  many  of  its 
aspects  to  any  the  world  has  known. 

Inland,  many  types  are  encountered,  easily  traceable  to  those 
"  Children  of  the  Sun  "  who  migrated  from  the  north  to  the 
interior  highlands  of  the  country  and  established  at  Cuzco  the 
centre  and  capital  of  a  great  empire.  Originally,  their  very 
contrast  with  surrounding  tribes  gave  them  a  remarkable  dis- 
tinction, whilst  their  civilisation  was  full  of  somid  and  humane 
elements.  Its  keynote  was  an  inteUigent  socialism,  for  the  citizen 
had  to  supply  the  needs  of  the  aged  and  infirm,  the  widow  and 
the  orphan,  and  the  soldier  on  active  service,  before  supplying 
his  own.  The  person  of  the  Emperor  was  regarded  as  divine,  and 
he  wielded  supreme  authority  over  his  realm.  In  this  enlightened 
society,  hidden  away  for  centuries  from  the  eyes  of  the  rest  of 
the  w^orld,  poverty  was  a  thing  unknown,  for  communism,  tem- 
pered by  an  almost  extravagant  regard  for  authority,  attained 
during  the  regime  of  the  Incas  an  ideal  height  never  achieved 
before  or  since. 

The  Peruvians  of  those  bygone  times  have  left  little  doubt  that 

138 


Pent — ''  The  Country  of  Marvels'' 

they  excelled  as  agriculturalists  and  shepherds  ;  their  mountains 
were  cultivated  almost  to  the  snow-line  ;  irrigation  on  thoroughly 
sound  lines  was  known  and  practised  ;  aqueducts  and  bridges 
abounded,  and  adequate  roads  connected  town  with  town  and 
with  the  sea.     Moreover,  the  people  had  advanced  sufficiently 


THE  ARID  COAST  OF   PERU. 


far  along  the  path  of  civilisation  to  have  tamed  wild  animals 
such  as  the  llama  and  alpaca  for  domestic  use. 

On  a  higher  plane  than  this,  they  had  evolved  a  religion  full 
of  sound  rules  for  individual  and  social  conduct  and  performed 
with  a  wealth  of  ritual."^  Its  central  feature  was  Sun-worship, 

139 


A  Tour  through  South  America 

which  relates  it  somewhat  to  the  Zoroastrianism  of  the  Persians, 
but  it  is  clear  that,  in  addition,  the  Incas  and  their  subjects  had 
an  exalted  conception  of  a  Supreme  Being— the  fount  and  origin 
of  the  Universe.  His  greatest  temple,  which  filled  one  side  of  the 
square  at  Cuzco,  was  richly  ornamented  and  decorated,  its  walls 
and  shrines  being  overlaid  with  pure  gold,  in  the  working  of 
which  metal  the  ancient  Peruvians  were  highly  proficient. 

Truly,  here  was  a  people  widel}^  differentiated  from  the  ruck  of 
South  American  natives — those  squalid  Indians  with  whom  the 
Spanish  adventurers  came  into  contact.  Possessed  of  sufficient 
enterprise  to  establish  an  empire  which,  from  north  to  south, 
extended  from  Quito  in  Ecuador  to  the  River  Maule  in  Chili, 
they  were  a  noble  and  withal  peaceful  race  ;  and  the  inexplicable 
manner  in  which  this  fabric  of  civiUsation  arose  can  only  be 
compared  in  sheer  wonder  with  the  sudden  manner  of  its  fall. 
Although  nothing  definite  seems  to  have  been  known  in  Europe 
of  the  empire  of  the  Incas,  such  an  Eldorado  had  been  adumbrated 
by  dreamers  and  sung  of  by  poets,  and  the  outpourings  of  these 
men  of  fancy  fired  the  hearts  of  adventurers  in  quest  of  a  land 
rich  in  treasure  beyond  the  dreams  of  avaiice. 

The  splendid  dominion  of  the  Incas  fell  a  prey  to  the  greatest 
of  all  the  Spanish  adventurers — Francisco  Pizarro,  who  outshone 
his  fellows  in  ability,  daring,  resourcefulness,  and,  alas  !  treachery. 
The  illegitimate  offspring  of  a  gentleman  and  a  woman  of  the 
people,  Pizarro,  although  lacking  in  education,  proved  himself 
more  than  a  match  for  the  proudest  sons  of  Spain  who  had 
received  careful  training  in  the  schools  of  arms  and  diplomacy. 

In  152.4,  we  find  him  settled  in  Panama  with  two  companions, 
Almagr^  and  Luque,  the  trio  eager  to  discover  that  rich  country 
which  everyone  was  persuaded  had  other  than  imaginary  exist- 
ence. Having  obtained  permission  from  Pedrarias,  the  Governor 
of  Panama,  Pizarro  set  sail  in  a  small  vessel  with  112  men,  but 
after  many  privations  was  compelled  to  retire.  Urged  on, 
however,  by  the  persistence  of  his  comrades  Almagro  and  Luque, 
and  undeterred  by  the  defections  of  his  men,  spent  and  weary 
after  a  sojourn  on  an  inhospitable  island  in  sight  of  a  swampy 
shore,  Pizarro  at  length  landed  at  Tumbez  on  the  Peruvian  coast, 
where  his  eyes  feasted  for  the  first  time  upon  the  opulence  of  the 
Incas.    Eldorado  was  discovered  at  last ! 

Pizarro  came  and  saw,  but  did  not  conquer,  at  any  rate,  not 
140 


Peril — ''  The  Cotmtry  of  Mai'vels 


then,  and  that  for  the  very  good  reason  that  he  had  with  him  a 
mere  handful  of  followers.  But  he  lost  no  time  in  collecting  what 
he  could  of  the  spoil,  and  taking  it  as  a  sample  to  Spain,  where  he 
succeeded  in  inducing  the  court  to  aid  and  abet  his  surprising 
adventure. 

He  returned  to  Peru  and  arrived  on  the  scene  at  the  psycho- 
logical moment.  The  last  Inca  monarch,  Huayna  Capac,  had 
divided  his  kingdom  betw^een  his  two  sons — Huascar,  the  rightful 
heir,  and  Atahualpa,  the  old  king's  son  by  an  Ecuadorian  mother. 
These  two  sons  began  to  squabble  over  territorial  questions,  and 
at  length  Atahuallpa  endeavoured  to  appropriate  the  whole 
country  to  himself.  This  was 
Pizarro's  opportunity  and  he 
was  quick  to  take  advantage 
of  it. 

The  meeting  between  the 
Spanish  conquistadors  and 
the  last  of  the  great  Incas 
was  surely  one  of  the  most 
remarkable  in  history,  re- 
sembling somewhat  the 
splendours  of  the  Field  of 
the  Cloth  of  Gold.  On  the 
surface  at  least,  amity  pre- 
vailed on  both  sides,  Pizarro 
being  lavish  in  his  professions 
of  good  intentions,  and  Ata- 
hualpa child-like  in  his  belief 
of  them. 

The  Inca  king  was  carried  to  the  meeting-place  on  a  throne  or 
couch  adorned  with  plumes  of  various  colours,  and  almost  covered 
with  plates  of  gold  and  silver  embelhshed  with  precious  stones. 
Following  him  w^ere  the  chief  officers  of  his  court  carried  in  a 
similar  manner,  singers  and  dancers  accompanying  the  procession, 
whilst  the  plain  was  covered  with  countless  troops. 

Pizarro  could  make  no  such  gorgeous  display,  being  attended 
merely  by  a  small  band  of  soldiers  and  a  priest.  As  always,  this 
latter  accompanied  the  Spanish  adventurers  to  furnish  a  religious 
excuse  for  any  excesses  that  might  be  deemed  necessary.  As  the 
royal  procession  approached,  the  priest,  Valverde  by  name,  hold- 

141 


A  Tour  through  South  A7nerica 

ing  a  crucifix  in  one  hand  and  a  breviary  in  the  other,  called 
upon  the  Inca  to  embrace  the  Christian  faith,  which  he  expounded 
at  some  length,  and  to  acknowledge  as  his  lawful  sovereign  the 
King  of  Castile,  to  whom  the  Pope,  God's  viceregent  on  earth, 
had  granted  all  the  regions  of  the  New  World.  Little,  under- 
standing the  badly  translated  harangue,  the  monarch  indignantly 
refused  to  comply  with  the  impudent  demand,  and  this  was  the 
cue  for  one  of  the  most  remarkable  exploits  that  even  Pizarro 
ever  carried  out. 

The  signal  w^as  given  to  fire,  and  for  the  first  time  in  their 
existence  the  Peruvians  were  made  acquainted  w4th  the  deadly 
effect  of  firearms.  In  this  unprovoked  attack,  more  than  four 
thousand  of  them  were  slain,  and  Atahualpa,  rudely  dragged 
from  his  throne  by  Pizarro's  own  hand,  was  cast  into  prison. 

Although  bent  on  the  Inca's  destruction,  Pizarro  for  a  time, 
played  with  him  with  cathke  cruelty.  When  there  came  a  talk  of 
liberty,  Atahualpa  offered  to  fill  the  room  in  which  he  was  con- 
fined with  vessels  of  gold  as  high  as  he  could  reach,  provided  he 
were  allowed  to  go  free.  Pizarro  jumped  at  so  tempting  a  bargain, 
and  the  treasure  was  duly  delivered,  but  the  Inca  was  not  given 
his  hberty,  and  eventually  the  Spaniard  had  him  strangled. 
Many  pretexts  were  given  for  the  crime,  one  being  that  he  had 
ordered  the  death  of  his  brother  Huascar  ;  another  that  he  kept 
a  great  many  concubines  !  But  neither  of  these  reasons  nor  any 
of  the  others  cited  revealed  the  dark  motive  in  Pizarro's  soul. 
He  was  astute  enough  to  perceive  that  so  long  as  there  was  a 
single  Inca  alive  a  superstitious  reverence  w'ould  cling  round 
his  personaHty,  and  the  domination  of  Spain  would  never  be 
secure. 

So  perished  the  last  of  the  Incas,  and  thereafter  the  great 
edifice  of  civilisation  which  they  had  erected  crumbled  into 
ruins.  There  was  now  a  profuse  distribution  of  gold  and  other 
treasure,  some  of  which  went  to  the  Spanish  court,  a  goodly 
proportion  being  reserved  for  Pizarro  and  his  men. 

It  was  only  Almagro  who  did  not  get  his  just  due,  and  Almagro 
must  never  be  forgotten  in  the  telHng  of  this  turbulent  tale  ;  for 
he  played  a  big  part  in  the  events  that  preceded  and  followed  the 
overthrow  of  the  last  Inca.  Pizarro  showed  all  through  the  piece 
that  he  was  an  implacable  enemy  and  a  treacherous  friend,  and 
his  treatment  of  his  comrade  in  arms  exposes  his  character  in  the 
142 


Pern — ''  The  Country  of  Marvels'' 


very  worst  light  possible.  While  he  rewarded  the  priestly  Luque 
— ecclesiastical  honours  being  outside  the  province  of  his  own 
ambitions— he  failed  to  fulfil  hardly  a  single  obhgation  to  Almagro, 
who  in  those  early  Panama  days  had  borne  with  him  the  burden 
and  brunt  of  the  battle. 

For  some  years  after,  the  history  of  .Peru  resolves  itself  into 
a  duel  between  the  two  conquistadors,  Almagro  usually  showing 
himself  as  the  man  of  honour,  Pizarro  as  the  perjured  schemer. 
But  virtue  did  not  avail  men  much  in  those  days,  and  when 
Almagro  at  last  fell  into  his  rival's  hands  it  was  plain  that  the 
game  was  up.  He  was  sentenced  to  death,  and  bore  his  fate  with 
fortitude. 

For  a  little  time  after  that, 
Pizarro  remains  the  dominant 
figure  in  the  picture,  his  rule, 
for  he  had  long  since  thrown 
to  the  winds  all  pretence  of 
obedience  to  Spain,  being 
practically  absolute.  But  the 
friends  and  supporters  of 
Almagro  had  not  forgotten 
the  foul  way  in  which  their 
hero  had  been  done  to  death, 
and  they  bided  their  time. 

Their  chance  was  not  long 
\in  coming.  On  June  26th, 
1541,  Pizarro  met  his  doom. 
A  desperate  band  of  con- 
spirators burst  into  the  palace 
in  the  square  of  Lima,  broke 

down  the^resistance  of  the  guard,  and  surprised  the  dictator  just 
after  he  had  risen  from  dinner.  It  may  be  said  of  him  as  it  was 
said  of  Charles  I,  that  nothing  became  him  so  much  in  life  as  his 
manner  of  leaving  it.  Armed  with  nothing  more  than  a  sword 
and  buckler,  he  fought  with  all  the  vigour  of  his  youthful  days ; 
but  his  courage  was  unavailing,  for  the  conspirators  were 
numerous  and  well-armed.  Pizarro  received  a  deadly  thrust 
full  in  his  throat,  sank  to  the  ground,  and  expired. 

After  these  picturesque,  though  lurid  happenings,  the  history 
of  Peru,  like  that  of  all  the  other  South  American  Republics, 

143 


INCA    PORTRAITURE    ON    A    PIECK    OF 
OLD    POTTERY. 


A  Tour  throngh  South  America 

becomes  monotonous.  The  colonial  period  resolves  itself  into  a 
record  of  oppressive  taxation,  rigidly  exacted,  and  patiently 
borne  ;  and  events  do  not  begin  to  move  again  until  the  declara- 
tion of  independence  in  the  early  part  of  the  nineteenth  century. 
For  the  establishment  of  its  freedom,  Peru  has  much  to  thank 
the  great  Bolivar,  and  that  modern  Peruvians  have  not  forgotten 
the  invaluable  services  which  the  Liberator  rendered  their  fathers 
the  fine  equestrian  statue  of  him  in  the  square  at  Lima  testifies. 

But  Peru  has  much  to  show  the  rambler  in  addition  to  the 
relics  of  its  impressive  past.  As  already  intimated,  it  is  a  country 
of  marvels,  and  not  all  of  them  are  supplied  by  Incan  civilisation. 
The  Indians  who  preceded  that  regime  were  also  possessed  of 
quaint  and  curious  knowledge.  Amongst  other  things,  they 
knew  how  to  reduce  the  human  head  from  its  natural  size  to 
about  four  inches.  The  object  of  this  strange  craft  was  obvious. 
Just  as  the  Indian  of  North  America  carried  the  scalps  of  his  foes 
at  his  belt,  so  the  Indian  of  North  Peru  carried  the  reduced  heads 
of  his  victims  strung  together  to  show  his  warlike  prowess. 

The  modus  operandi  of  this  gruesome  process  was  as  follows : 
The  severed  head  was  boiled  in  an  infusion  of  forest  plants,  so  as 
to  soften  the  bones,  which  were  then  taken  out.  The  head  was 
afterwards  hung  up,  and  hot  pebbles  constantly  placed  inside 
until  the  skin  was  dried  and  the  required  size  attained. 

"The  custom  is  not  confined  to  Peru,  but  is  practised  by  savage 
tribes  in  other  parts  of  northern  South  America.  There  is  in  the 
British  Museum  a  reduced  head  from  Venezuela,  which  was 
presented  by  Mr.  Fagan,  British  Minister  in  Caracas.  The  human 
likeness  of  the  features  in  these  miniature  heads  is  wonderfully 
retained  and  has  a  most  weird  appearance.  It  is  not  only  savage 
heads  that  are  treated  in  this  barbarous  fashion.  At  least  one  of 
the  preserved  heads  which  have  been  brought  to  Europe  bears  un- 
mistakable evidence  of  its  having  belonged  to  a  white  man — 
probably  some  wretched  adventurer  who  lost  his  way  in  the 
forest  and  perished  at  the  hands  of  these  fiendishly  ingenious 
savages. 

Railways  rise  steadily  from  sea-level  with  an  average  grade  of 
about  four  per  cent,  clinging  to,  or  boring  through,  solid  rock 
throughout  almost  the  entire  distance,  to  the  highest  point  at 
Ticlio,  15,665  feet.  The  short  branch  from  Ticlio  to  the  mining 
camp  of  Morococha,  beautiful  with  its  many  lakes  and  glaciers, 
144 


Peru — ''  The  Count  7y  of  Marvels'' 


crosses  the  range  at  the  stupendous  altitude  of  15,865  feet  above 
sea-leveL  which  is  somewhat  higher  than  the  summit  of  Mont 
Blanc.  The  Central  Railway  of  Peru  is,  therefore,  the  highest 
railway  in  the  world]  It  need  hardly  be  said  that  the  intrepid 
builders  of  this  unique  mountain  railway  surmounted  some  of  the 
greatest  obstacles  ever  encountered  in  the  history  of  engineering. 

To  revert  to  politics,  the  sore  feeling  engendered  by  the  war 
between  Chih  and  Peru  has  been  much  embittered  by  the  conduct 
of  Chili  in  the  case  of  the  Tacna 
and  Arica  provinces. 

It  has  often  been  said  that 
treaties  between  nations  are  only 
made  to  be  torn  up,  and  this  is 
evidently  how  Chili  regards 
them.  By  the  Treaty  of  Ancon, 
which  was  signed  after  the  war 
on  October  20th,  1883,  the  pro- 
vince of  Tarapaca,  which  is 
extremely  rich  in  nitrates,  was 
ceded  to  Chili,  while  the  pro- 
vinces of 'Tacna  and  Arica  were 
to  remain  in  the  possession  of 
Chili  for  ten  years  as  from  the 
date  of  the  treaty.  At  the  end 
of  that  time,  a  plebiscite  of  the 
inhabitants  of  the  provinces  was 
to  be  taken  on  the  point  whether 
they  preferred  the  territory  to 
remain  under  the  sovereignty  of 
Chili,  The  clause  in  the  treaty 
concludes  :     "  The    country   in 

whose  favour  the  provinces  be  annexed  shall  pay  to  the  other 
the  sum  of  £1,000,000.'^  Although  twenty-nine  years  have 
passed  since  the  signing  of  that  treaty  no  plebiscite  has  yet  been 
taken,  and  Peru  charges  her  neighbours  with  always  raising 
technical  difficulties  whenever  the  question  of  taking  the  vote  is 
mooted.  She  prefers  an  even  more  serious  charge  than  this, 
alleging  that,  as  the  time  when  the  plebiscite  must,  owing  to 
international  pressure,  be  taken  draws  nearer,  Chili  is  making  it 
so  hot  for  the  Peruvians  in  the  two  ];irovinces  under  dispute  that 

^  145 


A   REDUCED   HUMAN   HEAD. 


A.  Tour  tlirougli  South  America 

they  are  unable  to  live  there.  The  object  of  this  is,  of  course,  that 
the  plebiscite  shall  have  only  one  result,  and  that  in  favour  of 
Chih. 

In  this  country  of  marvels,  a  word  must  be  given  to  coca, 
that  wonderful  plant  which  grows  in  the  warm  valleys  of  Peru 
and  Bolivia,  and  will  not  flourish  anywhere  else.  It  grows  in  the 
form  of  a  shrub,  and  seldom  exceeds  six  feet  in  height.  For 
centuries  past  the  Peruvian  Indians  have  recognised  its  dietetic 
value.  It  is  at  once  refreshing  and  stimulating  ;  it  must  be 
nutritious  also,  for  a  native  can  work  for  an  extreme  length  of 
time  without  troubling  about  any  other  form  of  food.  The  local 
way  of  taking  it  is  by  chewing,  generally  with  the  admixture  of  a 
little  lime.  When  infused,  it  makes  a  very  refreshing  beverage. 
Its  value  in  medicine  is  also  great,  for  it  is  the  source  of  that 
indispensable  alkaloid  cocaine. 

The  collection  of  the  coca  leaves  involves  much  care,  as  they 
have  to  be  gathered  one  by  one  for  fear  of  injuring  the  plant. 
The  person  who  has  charge  of  this,operation  places  a  mantle  along- 
side each  plant  and  throws  into  this  the  leaves  which  he  gathers. 
The  preser^^ation  of  the  leaves  is  also  a  difficult  matter  ;  if  too 
dry  they  become  reduced  to  powder;  if  too  damp  they  de- 
compose. 

In  the  countries  to  which  they  are  exported,  the  coca  leaves, 
in  the  dried  form,  are  used  for  making  wines,  tonics,  and  medicinal 
syrups. 

It  will  be  seen  from  the  foregoing  description  that  coca  is  a 
very  wonderful  g.nd  unique  product.  In  countless  directions 
fortune  has  been  kind  to  South  America,  showering  distinctive 
gifts  upon  her  with  a  lavish  hand.  It  would  really  seem  that 
nature  beheved  in  the  principle  of  monopoly,  for  certainly  the 
coca  of  Peru  and  Bolivia  and  the  mate  tea  of  Paraguay  flourish 
on  no  other  soil.  With  these  two  products  may  be  bracketed 
the  coffee  of  Brazil.  The  three  things  combined  suggest,  in  the 
old  Doctor's  phrase,  "  the  potentiality  of  growing  rich  beyond  the 
dreams  of  avarice,"  and  even  when  the  gold,  which  tempted  the 
cupidity  of  the  Spaniard  to  the  exclusion  of  everything  else,  is 
exhausted  the  continent  will  find  (indeed,  already  is  finding)  a 
larger,  a  more  regular,  and  a  more  constant  source  of  wealth  in  its 
indigenous  crops. 

The  sustaining  powers  of  coca,  attested  by  centuries  of  use,  as 

146 


Peru — *'  The  Country  of  Marvels'' 

well  as  by  the  fact  that  it  is  daily  consumed  by  eight  milHons  of 
people  in  Bolivia,  Peru,  Ecuador,  Colombia,  and  Rio  Negro,  who 
require  little  food  of  any  other  kind,  constitute  a  strong  argument 
for  its  extended  employment  in  the  future.  If  it  is  such  a  good 
friend  to  the  South  American  Indian,  it  should  be  equally  service- 
able to  the  soldier  on  the  mai:ch  ;  and  already  the  army  authorities 
of  several  countries  are  considering  the  advisability  of  including 
it  in  their  commissariat.  The  present  value  of  the  crop — about 
£200,000  annually — is  therefore  as  nothing  to  the  wealth  it  may 
yield  in  the  future. 


AN    INCA   MASK    IN   GOLD. 


H7 


PRE-INCA   MONOLITHS    IN    BOLIVIA. 


CHAPTER    XIII 

*'^The  Gateway  to  an  Imprisoned  Land'' 

MOLLENDO,  the  port  for  Arequipa,  Cuzco,  La  Paz,  is  any- 
thing but  an  inviting  place.  It  is  a  dismal  town  hke 
Iquique,  Arica,  Paita,  and  many  others  on  the  rainless  coast  that 
stretches  for  hundreds  of  weary  miles  down  the  Pacific.  The 
port  is  unsheltered  and  strong  south-westerly  winds  prevail, 
making  the  landing  in  small  boats  a  matter  of  no  little  difficulty. 
The  landing-stage  or  mole  belonging  to  the  Peruvian  Corporation 
is  the  most  important  feature  of  the  dusty  town,  for  from  it 
all  the  rich  products  of  the  far-distant  interior  are  shipped  into 
the  barges  which  carry  them  out  to  the  steamers  that  anchor 
in  the  roadstead.  The  exports  are  alpaca  and  sheep's  wool, 
hides,  coca  leaves,  Peruvian  bark,  silver,  tin,  and  iron  ores. 
The  town  itself  is  built  upon  steep,  rising  ground,  the  roads 
of  which  are  carpeted  with  thick  layers  of  ruddy  dust,  which 
the  wind  drives  about  to  the  inconvenience  of  the  visitors,  although 
it  does  not  apparently  annoy  the  dirty-looking  inhabitants. 
There  are  two  hotels  in  the  town  that  offer  little  choice,  and 
it  is  a  toss-up  which  is  the  more  deserving  of  patronage.  The 
houses  are  all  built  of  wood  and  painted  with  colours  that  soon 
lose  their  original  hues,  for  the  sun,  unmasked  by  clouds,  beats 
down  on  them  with  relentless  fury  and,  combined  with  the 
efforts  of  the  dust,  contrives  to  reduce  them  to  a  uniform  tint 
of  bleached  dismalness.  The  shops  expose  cheap  goods  of  German 
manufacture,  for  all  along  the  Pacific  seaboard  the  irrepressible 
Teuton  is  fast  obtaining  a  strong  and  tenacious  foothold.  The 
native  market  exudes  such  unmistakable  evidences  of  its  con- 
tents that  only  persons  with  strong  stomachs  dare  venture  to 
make  a  visual  inspection  of  the  wares.  Swarthy  Indians,  en- 
veloped in  brilliantly  coloured  ponchos,  lounge  on  the  wharves 

149 


A  Toitr  through  Sotith  America 


or  in  the  shade  cast  by  the  buildings.  The  church,  built  of  ^vood 
and  corrugated  iron,  in  a  style  absolutely  unsuitable  to  the 
materials,  has  two  towers  surmounted  by  conical  caps  that 
are  quite  original  and  absurd.  Women  sit  at  little  stalls  in  the 
gutters  or  on  the  pavements,  and  above  their  heads  little  square 
sunshades  stuck  on  poles  give  some  protection  to  the  medley 
of  fruit  in  the  baskets  in  front  of  them.  The  whole  place  looks 
temporary,  and  one  would  not  be  surprised  to  learn  that  the 
authorities  were  only  waiting  for  funds  to  lay  out  a  more  habit- 
able town.     The  place   has   only   about  5000  inhabitants,  who 

deserve  the  sym- 
pathy of  all  right- 
feehng  people.  But 
Mollendo  is  only  a 
seaport,  and  the 
doorway  to  vast 
and  interesting  re- 
gions in  the  interior, 
many  of  which  are 
unexplored,  and  one 
of  which,  Bolivia, 
is  still  waiting  for  a 
proper  recognition 
of  its  vast  resources. 
The  railway  to  Are- 
quipa  and  Puno  on 
the  Peruvian  shore 
of  the  highest  navi- 
gable lake  in  the 
world,  and  to  Cuzco,  the  ancient  city  of  the  Incas,  has  brought 
these  hitherto  Httle- visited  centres  into  closer  touch  with  outside 
civilisation. 

-  The  first  part  of  the  journe}^  to  Arequipa  is  through  a  suc- 
cession of  sand  dunes,  desolate  and  bare,  stretching  away  into 
the  distance  on  all  sides.  These  dunes,  crescent-shaped,  are 
in  a  state  of  slow  motion,  moving  in  the  direction  of  their  horns 
at  the  rate  of  about  100  feet  in  the  course  of  a  year,  so  that  they 
could  give  a  glacier  a  few  thousand  years'  start  in  a  race.  Towards 
Arequipa,  which  is  approached  through  fertile  and  cultivated 
land  upon  which  maize  and  sugar-cane  grow,  cattle  graze,  or, 
150 


A  FRUIT- STALL  AT  MOLLENDO. 


''  The  Gateway  to  an  Lnprisoned  LaiuV 

driven  by  natives,  tread  out  the  corn.  The  city  is  about  122 
kilometres  from  the  coast,  and  Hes  in  a  beautiful  valley,  green 
and  luscious.  The  elevation  of  the  city  at  7600  feet  ensures  a 
cooler  chme  than  that  left  behind  in  the  baked  and  roasted  coast. 

Away  in  the  distance  the  great  snow-clad  mountain  peaks  of 
Misti,  Pichupichu,  and  Charehani  tower  into  the  blue  vault 
above.  The  city  in  the  valley  is  built  largely  of  the  brown  lava 
thrown  up  by  a  volcano  in  the  vicinity.  With  an  almost  cynical 
indifference  to  the  terrible  forces  of  nature,  the  builders  of  the 
city  have  utilised  the  product  of  the  volcano  to  protect  them- 
selves from  the  devastating  earthquakes  to  which  the  whole 
Pacific  slope  of  the  Cordillera  is  subject.  The  architecture  of 
Arequipa  and  Cuzco  differs  in  many  respects  from  that  of  Lima, 
for  in  both  the  former  cities  there  are  many  traces  of  the  strong 
influences  that  the  indigenous  art  of  the  country  had  upon  that 
of  the  conquerors.  The  heavy  carvings  on  the  facades  and  door- 
ways of  the  many  churches  and  convents  in  Arequipa  betray 
the  influence  more  than  the  general  design,  and  many  ornamental 
forms  are  introduced  that  belong  entirely  to  the  New  World. 
The  railway  from  Arequipa  crosses  the  Cordillera  at  the  altitude 
of  14,600  feet  above  the  sea,  and  from  the  Crucero  Alto  descends 
through  rich  pasture  lands  upon  which  great  flocks  of  llamas, 
sheep,  alpacas,  and  the  wild  vicuna  graze. 

At  the  junction  Juliaca  the  line  branches,  the  northern  route 
leading  to  the  ancient  Inca  capital.  This  city  Cuzco  lies  between 
two  streams  at  an  altitude  of  12,000  feet,  and  is  a  great  favourite 
with  tourists  from  the  United  States,  who  go  in  great  numbers 
to  see  the  many  interesting  remains  of  the  old  civilisation. 
Although  much  of  the  old  Temple  of  the  Sun  which  aroused 
the  cupidity  of  the  Spanish  invaders  has  given  place  to  a  Jesuit 
convent,  there  are  still  many  buildings  that  retain  the  massive 
walls  built  by  the  conquered  race.  The  lower  portions  of  most 
of  the  houses  are  good  specimens  of  the  fine  masonry  for  which 
the  old  builders  are  distinguished.  The  lighter  construction  of 
the  upper  stories  is  of  the  Spanish  period,  with  many  of  its 
characteristic  architectural  features.  The  other  line,  that  branches 
south  from  Juliaca,  leads  to  Puno,  which  lies  on  the  shores  of 
Lake  Titicaca,  where  a  steamer  completes  the  connection  with 
the  Bolivian  shore  at  Guaqui,  from  whence  trains  depart  for 
La  Paz,  the  capital  of  Bolivia.    Named  after  the  great  Liberator, 

151 


A  Tour  thyough  South  America 

Simon  Bolivar,  Bolivia  is  a  large  country  covering  about  597,000 
square  miles,  bounded  on  the  north,  south,  and  east  by  Brazil,. 
Paraguay,  and  the  Argentine  Republic,  and  shut  away  from 
the  Pacific  seaboard  on  the  west  by  Peru  and  ChiH.  Prior  to  the 
assertion  of  its  independence  it  was  known  as  Upper  Peru,  and 
in  its  early  years  it  was  virtually  a  part  of  a  neighbouring  State, 
from  which  it  derived  its  name.  The  country  is  naturally  divided 
into  two  portions,  the  high  lands  to  the  westward  and  the  great 


THE  JESUIT  CHURCH   ON   THE   SITE   OF   THE    INCA    "TEMTLE   OF   THE   SUN 


plains  that  roll  away  to  the  east.  The  centre  of  the  country  is 
a  fertile  plateau  which  is  capable  of  supporting  vast  herds  of 
sheep  and  cattle,  and  raising  all  kinds  of  crops.  The  mineral 
wealth  of  the  country  is  rich,  copper  and  gold  being  found  in 
considerable  quantities.  But  the  staple  mineral  product  is  silver, 
for  Bolivia  is  the  third  largest  producer  of  silver,  and  in  the 
mines  of  Potosi,  which  have  been  worked  for  centuries,  there 
would  seem  to  be  a  practically  inexhaustible  supply  of  that 
precious  metal. 

Like  so  many  other  of  the  South  American  republics,  Bolivia 

152 


'  The  Gateway  to  an  Ijiiprisoned  Land'' 


possesses  undreamt -of  potentialities  for  development,  but  her 
industry  and  her  commerce  with  the  outside  world  are  sadly 
hampered  for  want  of  a  port  on  the  Pacific.  Bolivians  live  in  hopes 
that  they  will  get  it  one  day,  not  by  force  of  arms,  but  through 
the  good  offices  of  Chili.  Already  an  arrangement  has  been 
arrived  at  with  Brazil  under  which  BoHvia  has  a  better  outlet 
for  her  products  from  the  north-west.  One  of  her  greatest  de- 
siderata is  to  de- 
spatch as  promptly 
and  cheaply  as  pos- 
sible her  large  and 
valuable  supplies  of 
rubber  for  shipment 
to  the  port  of  Para. 

Bolivia  has  been 
called  the  cradle  of 
civilisation,  and 
long  before  the 
Incas  in  the  neigh- 
bouring State  of 
Peru  founded  their 
kingdom  it  was  in- 
habited by  a  culti- 
vated race,  who 
have  left  behind 
monuments  of  their 
skill  in  the  shape  of 
statues  and  build- 
ings  strongly 
wrought  of  carved 
stone.  Whatever 
the  warlike  prowess 

of  this  primitive  folk  may  have  been,  it  was  not  sufficiently 
developed  to  resist  the  invasion  of  the  Incas,  and  when  the 
Spaniards,  under  the  redoubtable  Pizarro,  entered  the  country, 
they  found  it  under  the  domination  of  the  latter  race. 

Bolivia  may  also  make  the  unique  boast  that  on  its  soil  was 
struck  the  last  blow  for  South  American  independence.  The 
victory  of  Ayacusho,  achieved  in  December,  1824,  proved  the 
death-blow  to   Spanish   domination   in  the   sub-continent,   and 

153 


A    BOLIVIAN    WOMAN. 


A  Tour  through  South  America 

it  is  therefore  a  landmark  not  only  in  the  history  of  South  America, 
but  of  the  world, 

Bolivia  may  also  be  proud — if  nations  should  be  proud  of  such 
things — that  she  has  had  more  revolutions  than  any  other  State 


SAILING    ON    LAKE    TITICACA. 

even  in  that  part  of  the  globe  where  revolutions  are  a  favourite 
pastime. 

The  Bolivians  resemble  a  certain  king  in  one  of   Browning's 
poems,  they  have ,  favourites  manifold,  and  shift  their  ministry 

154 


'*  The  Gateway  to  an  Iinpnsoned  Land'' 

some  once  a  month.  The  obvious  result  of  this  is  that  the  later 
history  of  the  country  makes  confused  and  rather  weary  reading. 
One  dictator  followed  another  after  the  collapse  of  Bolivar's 
ambitious  dream  of  establishing  a  Central  South  American  dictator- 
ship for  himself,  with  the  heads  of  all  the  other  communities 
subject  to  his  authority.    Some  of  these  men,  to  their  credit  be 


BALSAS  ON   LAKE   TITICACA. 


it  recorded,  tried  to  assume  the  mantle  of  the  wise  ruler,  but 
others  were  bloodthirsty  tyrants.  Few  of  them  stand  out  in  bold 
relief  like  Francia  in  Paraguay  or  Bolivar  in  New  Granada.  One 
of  the  most  celebrated  of  the  bunch  was  Melgarejo,  who  in  the 
sixties  of  the  last  century  abandoned  all  pretence  of  governing 
by  any  sanction  except  that  of  brute  force  and  terror.  Although 
the  lives  of  Bolivians  were  very  insecure,  for  none  of  them  ever 
knew   when   they   would   be   charged   with   conspiracy   against 

155 


A  TottF  through  South  America 

the  State  and  sent  to  execution,  Melgarejo's  regime  was  not 
one  of  undiluted  evil.  The  best  points  in  his  rule  were  exemplified 
in  the  application  of  funds  for  public  purposes,  and  before  his 
overthrow  in  .1871  silver  production  had  enormously  increased, 
foreign  capital  had  flowed  freely  into  the  country,  and  the  Mollendo 
Railroad,  extending  to  the  head  of  Lake  Titicaca,  had  been  opened. 

The  war  with  Chih,  in  which  she  joined  forces  with  Peru, 
ended  disastrously  for  Bolivia,  for  it  entailed  the  loss  of  her 
nitrate  territory,  and  cut  her  off  entirely  from  the  Pacific  Ocean. 

It  is  in  the  retrieving  of  that  highway  to  the  sea  that  her  pros- 
perity in  the  future  lies. 

The  highlands  of  Bolivia  have  been  compared  with  Thibet, 
the  roof  of  the  world,  but  whilst  the  Asian  tableland  consists 
merely  of  mountain  pastures,  that  of  South  America  supports 
towns  and  populous  cities,  and  affords  food  for  numerous  herds 
of  cattle,  llamas,  vicunas,  and  sheep,  and  is  covered  with  harvests 
of  cereals.  The  mineral  wealth  of  Bolivia  lies  principally  in  the 
western  districts,  which  are  consequently  the  most  populous 
and  settled,  containing  the  chief  centres  of  trade  at  La  Paz, 
Cochabamba,  Sucre,  Potosi,  and  Oruro.  The  eastern  provinces 
of  Beni  and  Santa  Cruz  cannot  as  yet  point  to  more  than  their 
possibilities,  which  are  vividly  suggested  in  the  description  of  a 
traveller  from  the  United  States,  who  declared  that  "  the  few 
scattered  inhabitants  gaze  upon  a  wealth  sufficient  to  pay  the 
national  debts  of  the  world." 

The  population  of  the  country  is  something  just  under  three 
millions.  The  trade  is  principally  in  the  hands  of  Germany  and 
England,  but  the  former  country  is  making  far  greater  headway 
in  the  Bolivian  markets  than  are  our  own  merchants  and 
manufacturers.  The  reason  doubtless  is  that  Germany  and  also 
France  in  a  lesser  degree  are  taking  the  trouble  to  find  out  what 
the  foreign  pubhc  really  requires. 


56 


CHAPTER    XIV 

"  The  Land  of  Nitrates  " 

VALPARAISO  is  the  principal  seaport  of  the  most  remarkably 
shaped  country  in  the  world.  A  narrow  strip  of  land, 
lying  between  the  Andes  and  the  Pacific,  having  a  length  of  two 
thousand  eight  hundred  miles,  and  a  width  varying  from  forty 
to  one  hundred  and  sixty  miles,  it  has  not  inaptly  been  compared 
to  a  serpent  couched  on  the  south-western  verge  of  the  continent. 
When  you  have  voyaged  down  the  coast  from  Panama,  and  have 
experienced  the  changes  from  the  tropical  verdure  of  the 
Ecuadorian  coast  to  the  arid  monotony  of  the  Peruvian  sea- 
board and  the  dusty,  dry  melancholy  of  such  Chilian  seaports  as 
Iquique,  Antofagasta,  Tattal,  and  Coquimbo,  the  soft  grey 
atmosphere  of  Valparaiso  comes  as  a  welcome  relief.  One  might 
almost  imagine  that  an  English  climate  had  found  its  way  down 
south,  as  well  as  English  trade,  manners,  and  customs.  Val- 
paraiso— the  "  Vale  of  Paradise" — hardly  justifies  its  presurnptuous 
title,  for  although  trees  and  verdure  are  plentiful  enough,  the 
bay  cannot  for  a  moment  be  compared  for  beauty  with  the 
magnificence  of  Rio  de  Janeiro  on  the  other  side  of  the  continent. 
The  impressions  received  are  entirely  different  from  any  others 
to  be  obtained  in  other  parts  of  South  America. 

The  languorousness  of  equatorial  regions  is  left  behind,  and  on 
every  hand  a  virile  activity  is  apparent.  This  note  of  virility,  which 
is  quite  unusual  in  Latin-American  communities,  at  first  excites 
surprise,  and  many  theories  have  been  advanced  to  account  for 
the  phenomenon.  If  climate  and  environment  have  a  great 
influence  on  the  moulding  of  racial  character,  it  is  not  unnatural 
to  suppose  that  the  exceptional  characteristics  of  Chili  have  had 
their  due  effect  upon  the  inhabitants.  The  Chilians  have  been 
called  the  "  English  of  South  America,"  and  it  has  been  put 

157 


A  Tour  through  South  America 


forward  that  they  derive  their  origin  from  the  natives  of  Northern 
Spain,  whereas  other  South  American  States  were  colonised  by 
adventurers  from  the  southern  part  of  the  Peninsula.  But  the 
precise  localities  from  which  the  early  conquistadors  came  are 
lost  in  the  mists  of  antiquity,  and  it  is  therefore  much  safer  to 
attribute  the  extraordinary  energy  and  enterprise  of  the  Chilian 
to  his  environment,  to  the  harsh  experiences  he  has  undergone, 
and  to  the  strain  of  Araucanian  blood  which  runs  through  the 
whole  people.  The  Spanish  colonists  from  Peru  who  effected  the 
conquest  of  the  country,  had  a  much  tougher  proposition  to  deal 

withthan  theircom- 
patriots  in  other 
parts  of  the  con- 
tinent, for  the 
natives  they  found 
in  possession  of  the 
soil  were  not  the 
usual  docile  type  of 
Indian,  but  a  race 
of  hardy  fighters, 
who  were  prepared 
to  contest  the  ad- 
vance of  the  invader 
to  the  last  ditch,  as 
it  were.  The  Arau- 
canian Indians  were 
the  most  valorous 
of  all  the  South 
American  aborigines,  and  it  cannot  be  said  with  truth  that 
they  were  ever  entirely  subjugated,  a  portion  of  independent 
territory  being  granted  them,  on  honourable  terms,  after  a  long 
struggle.  Intermarriage  with  the  Araucanians  undoubtedly  did 
much  to  stiffen  the  Spanish  fibre,  and  many  of  the  best  families 
in  the  country  to-day  are  proud  to  claim  descent  from  this 
dominant  and  manly  race. 

In  Valparaiso,  and  in  Santiago  the  capital,  which  lies  about  fifty 
miles  inland  as  the  crow  flies,  but  over  double  that  distance  by 
rail,  the  Englishman  finds  himself  very  much  at  home.  In  nearly 
all  the  shops  he  can  hear  his  native  tongue  spoken,  and  at  the 
social  functions  many  of  the  fashions  and  customs  of  his  country 

158 


A    CHILIAN    FAKMER. 


AN  ARAUCANIAN   FAMILY. 


A  Tour  throitdi  South  America 


'<b 


are  followed  and  observed.  At  the  watering-places  Vina  do 
Mar  and  Miramar,  not  far  from  Valparaiso,  the  beach  scenes 
might  well  be  likened  to  those  on  the  shores  of  retiring  EngUsh 
watering-places,  whilst  the  sturdy  children  who  romp  upon  the 
sands  display  a  healthy  vitality  that  only  temperate  chmates 
seem  to  develop.  Valparaiso  is  a  busy  town,  where  the  inhabitants 
are  all  on  business  bent  ;  and  although  they  live  upon  an  earth- 
quake zone,  they  have  expressions  free  from  the  anxiety  which 
one  might  e;xpect  to  see  upon  their  faces.  Many  of  the  buildings, 
both  in  the  city  and  suburbs,  have  many  scars  and  cracks,  received 
during  the  great  upheaval  of  1906,  and  nervous  persons  prefer  to 
live  in  structures  that  are  light  and  low,  than  to  trust  to  the 
higher  though  solidly  built  buildings  that  offer  little  chances  of 
escape  in  the  terrible  moments  of  a  shock. 

Horses  are  cheap  in  Chili ;  and  the  beautifully  situated  race- 
course, near  Vina  do  Mar,  is  well  patronised  by  all  classes.  Though 
not  so  imposing  or  so  ostentatious  as  the  famous  course  at  Buenos 
Ayres,  it  is  more  fortunate  in  its  setting,  and  the  beauty  of  the 
surrounding  scenery,  with  the  great  background  of  the  Cordillera 
towering  into  the  sky,  gives  it  a  character  which  many  race- 
courses lack.  In  some  respects  it  might  be  compared  with  the 
one  at  Rio,  but,  if  anything,  it  has  a  more  distinguished  loveli- 
ness. Many  tennis  courts  and  a  golf  course  are  well  patronised 
by  both  sexes,  and  riding  is  an  almost  universal  form  of  exercise. 
In  Santiago  the  government  classes  make  the  society  more 
brilhant  in  its  display,  and  although  the  city  still  retains  many 
characteristically  Spanish  buildings,  its  inhabitants  are  cosmo- 
poHtan  in  their  tastes  and  education.  The  Alameda,  an  avenue 
over  five  miles  in  length  and  lined  with  beautiful  trees,  is  a 
promenade  much  affected  by  the*  fashion  of  the  capital,  and  the 
horses  and  carriages  are  only  exceeded  in  elegance  and  beauty  by 
the  women,  who  are  as  beautiful  as  their  distant  cousins  in 
Argentina.  In  the  evenings  the  Plaza  is  a  blaze  of  light  and  life, 
and  no  one  can  dispute  the  Chilians'  capacity  for  social  enjoyment. 
Public  monuments  to  illustrious  natives  are  numerous,  and  one  to 
O'Higgins,  seated  on  his  prancing  steed  and  flourishing  his  sword, 
is  strongly  reminiscent  of  the  numerous  replicas  of  the  San 
Martin  monuments  whirh  are  scattered  through  the  neighbouring 
republic  of  Argentina. 

Tiiese  two  men  had  a  large  share  in  the  emancipating  of  the 
160 


"  The  Land  of  Nitrates'' 

continent  from  the  degenerate  government  of  Spain,  and  their 
deeds  of  valour,  ever  fresh  in  the  minds  of  their  countrymen, 
continue  to  animate  the  spirit  of  independence. 

When  the  Spaniards  first  set  foot  in  Chili  they  found  a  large 
portion  of  the  country  under  the  sway  of  the  Incas,  for  although 


AN   ARAUCANIAN    INDIAN. 


that  dynasty  is  generally  associated  with  Peru,  at  the  height  of 
its  power  it  exercised  domination  over  Ecuador  and  Chili  in 
addition.  Almagro,  the  gallant  General  who  fell  a  victim  to  the 
insatiable  ambition  of  his  former  comrade  Pizarro,  was  the  first 
of  the  conquerors  to  enter  the  country,  but  his  stay  was  not  pro- 
longed, for  the  climate  was  inhospitable,  and  there  was  no  gold 
L  i6i 


A  Tour  through  South  America 

to  be  had  for  the  seeking.  It  remained  for  Valdivia,  a  lieutenant 
of  Pizarro's,  to  carry  on  the  work  which  Almagro  had  attempted 
in  a  half-hearted  fashion.  He  found  the  task  a  particularly 
perilous  one,  and  before  he  could  complete  it  he  was  captured  by 
the  Araucanians  and  slain  by  the  war  club  of  an  old  chief.  Spain, 
however,  persisted  in  her  project,  and  her  eventual  conquest  of 
Chili  certainly  makes  one  of  the  proudest  records  in  the  variegated 
page  of  her  exploits  in  the  New  World.  In  the  early  years  of  the 
nineteenth  century  Chili  went  through  an  experience  which  was 
common  to  every  other  South  American  country — it  battled  for  its 
independence.*  The  struggle  was  long  and  desperate.  The  re- 
semblance of  the  Chilians  to  the  English  has  already  been  noted, 
and  it  was  therefore  appropriate  that  two  men  of  British  descent 
should  have  lent  incalculable  aid  to  Chili  in  securing  her  en- 
franchisement. The  names  of  Bernardo  O'Higgins  and  Lord 
Thomas  Cochrane  are  deservedly  honoured  in  the  coimtry  to-da}'. 

O'Higgins  was  the  natural  son  of  an  Irish  Captain-General,  who 
under  the  old  Spanish  regime  had  played  a  part  in  the  making  of 
modern  Chili,  thus  illustrating  yet  once  more  the  statement  that 
there  has  never  been  a  conflict  in  modern 'times  but  an  Irishman 
has  taken  part  in  it.  A  gallant  fighter,  a  consummate  strategist, 
his  exploits  on  Chilian  soil  have  quite  eclipsed  those  of  his  father. 
He  outwitted  the  Spanish  generals,  harried  their  forces,  and  did 
more  than  anyone  else,  with  the  exception  of  San  Martin,  to  break 
the  power  of  Spain  in  that  corner  of  the  globe.  He  subsequentlj' 
became  dictator  of  the  new  republic,  but  his  record  as  a  statesman 
is  by  no  means  so  clean  or^so  brilliant  as  his  career  as  a  soldier. 
His  own  rapacity  and  his  ministers'  corruption  led  to  his  downfall 
in  1823.  Lord  Thomas  Cochrane  was  one  of  those  sailors  of 
fortune  in  which  the  British  Navy  has  been  so  prolific.  He  was 
almost  as  great  a  terror  to  the  Spanish  captains  as  Drake  had 
been  some  hundreds  of  years  before.  His  daring  bombardment 
of  Valdivia,  and  subsequent  rushing  of  the  forts,  demoralised  the 
Spaniards  and  led  to  the  surrender  of  the  city,  and  deprived 
Spain  of  her  last  base  of  operations  on  the  Chihan  mainland. 
ChiH  has  been  called  "  the  school  of  arms  "  for  South  America, 
and,  judging  from  the  number  of  conflicts  which  have  taken  place 
on  her  soil,  the  name  is  more  than  justified. 

The  war  with  Peru  and  Bolivia,  in  which  Chili  came  out  the 
undoubted  victor,  and  the  civil  war,  out  of  which  Jose  Balmaceda 
162 


ARAUCANIAN    GIRLS. 


A  Tour  through  South  Am  erica 

emerges  a  romantic  and  heroic  figure,  are  events  of  more  recent 
occurrence,  but  sufficient  time  has  elapsed  to  bring  the  character 
of  Balmaceda  into  clearer  relief.  There  is  no  doubt  that  his 
motives  were  pure  and  high,  and  under  his  administration  Chili 
grew  and  prospered.  A  thorough  democrat  in  every  fibre  of  his 
being,  he  hated  the  Church  party  because  he  believed  it  to  be  the 
inveterate  foe  of  enlightenment  and  progress. 

His  great  mistake  was  in  imagining  that  he  and  his  ministers 
could  rule  a  fretful  realm  without  the  co-operation  of  Congress, 
a  mistake  also  made  by  Charles  I,  and  with  similar  results.  This 
it  was  that  led  to  the  civil  war  which  brought  along  Balmaceda's 
defeat,  and  culminated  in  his  dramatic  suicide  in  the  residence  of 
the  Argentine  minister  in  August,  1890.  Since  then  the  country 
has  been  comparatively  quiet,  for  luckily  the  dispute  with  Argen- 
tina over  territory  on  their  respective  frontiers  has  been  amicably 
settled  by  arbitration.  Thus  out  of  much  stress  and  turmoil  the 
Chilians  have  developed  into  a  prosperous  and  dominant  nation, 
with  a  sea  power  which  gives  them  the  command  of  the  Pacific 
coast  of  the  whole  sub-continent. 

Not  only  concerned  with  war,  they  have  brought  the  industries 
of  agriculture  to  a  high  level  of  perfection.  The  Chilian  farmers 
are  among  the  most  prosperous  in  the  world,  and  have  been 
likened  to  "  feudal  barons,  with  hacienda  in  lieu  of  castle,  with 
broad  acreage,  and  thousands  of  sheep,  cattle,  and  horses." 

Nitrate  is  the  chief  source  of  Chih's  prosperity,  and  the  deposits 
of  this  invaluable  product  are  found  in  the  great  plains'  of 
Tamarugal  in  the  two  northern  provinces.  The  salty  earth  called 
**  caliche  "  which  contains  the  nitrates  is  found  some  three  to  six 
feet  below  the  surface,  and  all  the  principal  "  oficinas  "  He 
upon  a  plateau  at  an  altitude  of  about  two  thousand  feet.  The 
railway  which  connects  these  "  oficinas  "  with  the  coast  runs  from 
Iquique  and  Pisagua,  and  these  two  towns  are  the  great  shipping 
ports  for  the  product.  The  exportation  of  commercial  nitrate 
known  as  "  Chihan  nitre  "  began  in  1830,  when  something  less 
than  nine  thousand  gross  tons  were  shipped.  The  quantity  has 
steadily  risen  until  now  over  two  million  gross  tons  are  exported 
annually,  the  figures  for  191 1  being  over  two  milhon  three  hundred 
thousand  tons.  Of  this  quantity  approximately  seventy-five 
per  cent  is  used  for  fertihser  purposes.  The  "  oficinas,"  which 
are  situated  on  the  Pampas,  are  busy  centres  of  industry,  em- 
164 


The  Land  of  Nitrates 


ploying  many  men  who  live  in  the  villages  belonging  to  the  works 
-T-and  stores,  schools,  and  other  useful  institutions  exist  to  make 
life  upon  these  bare  plains  endurable.  The  "  cahche  "  is  worked 
locally  in  these  factories,  where  it  is  first  crushed,  then  dissolved 
in  bojling  water,  the  insoluble  matter  precipitated,  the  solution 
containing  the  nitre  being  allowed  to  crystallise,  and  the  product 


ON   THE  GUANO   DEPOSITS. 


after  being  roughly  dried  is  exported  in  bags.  Curious  remains  of 
birds  and  animals  and  human  beings  are  frequently  discovered  in 
the  **  caliche  "  deposits,  all  well  preserved,  and  many  of  these  speci- 
mens of  the  earlier  fauna  of  the  country  are  found  in  the  museum 
at  Lima  and  elsewhere.  The  deposits  of  "  caliche  "  are  of  course^ 
limited,  and  there  is  great  difference  of  opinion  as  to  when  the 
beds  will  be  exhausted.  But  some  time  ago  the  Collector  of 
Customs  at  Valparaiso  estimated  that  thirty-five  million  metric 

165 


A  Tour  through  South  America 

tons  remain  at  present  in  private  properties — and  about  thirty 
million  metric  tons  in  the  Government  properties- — and,  in  his 
opinion,  by  1923  the  remaining  deposits  upon  private  properties 
will  have  been  exhausted,  whilst  the  Government  properties  may 
last  fifteen  years  longer.  Although  the  Government  receive  a 
large  revenue  from  the  sale  of  their  stock  of  this  valuable  deposit, 
by  the  time  it  is  exhausted  other  sources  of  wealth  will  have  been 
developed,  for  the  agricultural  possibilities  are  practically  un- 
limited. Chili  also  possesses  the  largest  guano  deposits  in  "the 
world,  and  here  is  another  source  of  wealth.  The  material,  which 
consists  of  the  droppings  of  pelicans,  is  the  most  valuable  manure 
known.  It  is  found  along  the  hills  that  lie  near  the  seashore,  and 
helps  to  give  those  weird  effects  of  dirty  snow  lying  on  brown 
earth.  Precisely  when  its  use  was  first  discovered  is  not  known, 
but  there  is  evidence  to  show  that  its  value  was  understood  by 
the  subjects  of  the  Incas,  and  it  helped  to  give  them  that  expert- 
ness  in  agriculture  which  so  astonished  the  Spaniards  in  the 
sixteenth  century.  Humboldt  introduced  it  into  Europe  early  in 
the  nineteenth  century,  and  since  then  its  employment  has 
increased  among  farmers  everywhere,  and  has  been  greatly 
fostered  by  the  improvements  which  chemists  and  inventors  have 
brought  about  in  the  methods  of  preparing  it  for  use.  Unlike 
nitrates,  there  is  little  possibility  of  the  supplies  of  this  fertiliser 
ever  becoming  exhausted. 


66 


CHAPTER   XV 
Argentina 

TO  countless  people  South  America  is  little  or  nothing  more 
than  a  geographical  expression,  and  to  such  the  Argentine 
Republic  is  the  representative  State,  typical  of  all  the  rest.  There 
could  be  no  greater  error,  for  the  natives  of  the  great  southern 
continent  are  sharply  differentiated,  ahke  in  many  traits  of 
character,  the  vocations  which  they  pursue,  and  the  physiography 
of  the  territory  which  they  inhabit.  There  are,  it  is  true,  certain 
ties  between  them  all ;  they  all  boast  a  common  ancestry  in  the 
Iberian  Peninsula,  and  they  are  also  united  by  a  common  religion, 
and,  to  a  lesser  extent,  a  common  language.  Still,  the  uninitiated 
person  does  not  go  so  very  far  wrong  in  supposing  that  the  Ar- 
gentine dwarfs  all  its  neighbours.  It  would  be  a  veritable  Triton 
among  the  minnows  were  it  not  for  the  juxtaposition  of  Brazil, 
which  vastly  exceeds  it  in  the  matter  of  size,  if  not  in  prosperity. 
The  rivalry  between  the  two  countries  is  of  long  standing,  but 
even  Brazihans  have  to  reluctantly  admit  that  their  neighbours 
are  easily  first  both  in  the  development  of  their  resources  and 
the  extent  of  their  commerce.  There  is  yet  another  factor  which 
gives  the  Argentina  pre-eminence.  In  its  capital,  Buenos  Ayres, 
it  has  the  largest  city  south  of  the  Equator,  and,  next  to  Paris, 
the  largest  Latin  city  in  the  world.  The  noise  of  its  fame  has 
reached  the  ears  of  thousands  of  people  to  whom  Rio  de  Janeiro 
and  Lima  are  mere  abstractions.  Nor  is  that  predominant  fame 
undeserved.  Buenos  Ayres  is  a  mighty  place  of  habitation  boasting 
avenues  and  architecture  which  would  grace  any  city  in  the  Old 
World.  The  progress  has  been  almost  incredibly  rapid.  From 
an  ill-paved,  wretched  settlement  on  the  flat  banks  of  the  muddy 
River  Plate,  a  splendid  city  has  arisen.  There  is  no  "  Colonial " 
atmosphere  about  it ;  it  has  instead  all  the  impress  of  a  European 

167 


A  Tour  thyough  South  America 

city,  and  in  this  respect  it  stands  apart  from  every  other  town  in 
South  America. 

The  traveller  who  approaches  Buenos  Ayres,  after  having 
seen  Rio  and  Montevideo,  will  probably  experience  a  little  dis- 
appointment, when  he  first  catches  sight  of  the  city,  for  its  fame 
far  transcends  its  appearance  when  viewed  from  the  deck  of 
an  incoming  steamer.  The  journey  up  the  muddy  river  is  unin- 
teresting, and,  but  for  the  buoys  that  mark  the  fourteen  miles 
of  dredged  channel,  has  no  features  to  distinguish  it  from  the 
English  Channel  on  a  calm  day.  At  night,  when  lit  up  by  its 
innumerable  lights,  the  city  presents  a  more  imposing  spectacle 
from  the  river,  for  the  vast  area  that  it  covers  is  then  apparent. 
In  the  daytime  the  low-lying  metropohs  is  relieved  by  only  a 
few  outstanding  buildings,  the  lemon-shaped  dome  of  the  Congress 
Buildings  being  the  most  conspicuous.  Its  straight  streets  are 
set  at  right  angles,  and  through  the  centre  of  the  city  runs  the 
magnificent  Avenida  de  Mayo,  lined  with  magnificent  buildings 
of  many  styles,  shaded  by  tall  trees,  and  at  night  briUiantly 
lighted  by  electric  standards.  It  is  in  the  "  Avenida  "  that  you 
receive  the  best  impression  of  the  city's  importance.  Stand  at  any 
point  of  this  great  boulevard,  your  mind  receives  the  impression 
that  you  have  reached  the  centre  of  a  State  which  has  in  a 
remarkably  short  space  of  time  risen  to  be  one  of  the  most 
important  countries  of  the  New  World. 

But  the  majority  of  the  streets  of  this  vast  city  are  still  the 
long,  narrow  lanes  which  the  early  designers  laid  out,  and  they 
offer  dreary  vistas  of  interminable  length.  Although  most  of 
the  buildings  that  line  them  are  new  and  stately,  and  have  fronts 
which  betoken  the  wealth  of  the  builders,  they  are  rather  osten- 
tatious, and  become  wearying  after  a  short  time.  But  there  are 
many  notable  buildings  in  the  city  which  are  worthy  of  the  city's 
importance.  The  Government  buildings  in  the  Plaza  de  Mayo, 
the  Houses  of  Congress,  the  numerous  hotels,  the  Cathedral, 
the  Bolsu,  and  the  sumptuous  quarters  of  the  Jockey  Club  com- 
pare favourably  with  similar  institutions  in  other  parts  of  the 
world.  Moreover,  the  homes  of  the  wealthy  landowners,  merchants, 
are  veritable  palaces,  sumptuously  furnished,  and  even  persons 
of  lesser  estate  reside  in  houses  of  great  beauty  and  luxury. 
Clubs  are  plentiful,  and  provide  for  the  various  nationalities 
who  form  colonies  in  the  city  When  one  considers  the  fact 
i68 


A  Tour  through  South  Auierica 

that  the  city  has  a  population  of  about  one  miUion,  which  is 
about  a  fifth  of  the  entire  population  of  the  country,  it  is  not 
surprising  to  find  that  there  are  many  places  of  entertainment, 
which  are  run  upon  similar  Hues  to  those  in  Paris,  London,  and 
New  York.  Companies  from  Europe  tour  South  America,  and 
Rio,  Buenos  Ayres,  Valparaiso  are  favoured  with  the  best  talent 
the  world  possesses.  The  opera  house  at  Buenos  Ayres  is  quite 
a  sight  on  gala  nights,  and  the  toilets  of  the  beauties  of  fashion 
are  not  less  extravagant  or  tasteful  than  those  of  the  fairest 
Parisiennes.  The  women  of  Argentina  are  famous  for  their  beauty, 
and  although  they  begin  at  an  early  age  to  put  on  flesh,  they 
long  retain  their  good  complexions  and  love  of  showy  dress. 
The  men  are  not  far  behind  the  womenfolk  in  their  love  of  display, 
good  looks,  and  luxuriant  habits,  although  of  late  there  is  a 
disposition  among  the  younger  men  to  go  in  for  the  sports  and 
pastimes  generally  associated  with  Englishmen  and  Americans. 
The  Jockey  Club  owns  and  runs  the  racecourse,  and  its  enormous 
wealth  is  derived  largely  from  that  institution.  Horses  and  motor- 
cars are  the  passions  of  the  rich,  as  the  long  line  of  automobiles 
of  latest  types  that  line  the  boulevard  outside  the  racecourse 
testify.  There  are  many  horses  on  the  streets  of  the  city  that 
must  arrest  the  attention  of  the  visitors,  not  on  account  of  their 
beauty,  but  of  their  sorry  appearance.  The  cab  horses  in  particular 
are  badly  treated  by  their  drivers,  and  it  is  one  of  the  stains  upon 
this  city,  that  has  in  so  many  respects  emulated  the  ways  of 
northern  capitals,  that  its  authorities  allow  the  brutes  who  ill  use 
the  poor  beasts  to  go  mipunished.  So  far  as  its  maritime  situation 
is  concerned,  Buenos  Ayres  is  not  very  fortunate,  for  the  channel 
of  the  estuary  being  so  shallow  has,  notwithstanding  the  many 
improvements  that  have  been  made  in  the  docks  of  recent  years, 
forced  much  of  the  shipping  to  other  ports  more  accessible. 
Rosario  has  been  growing  in  importance  as  a  grain  exporting 
town,  and  being  well  placed  in  the  Parana,  large  vessels  can  go 
alongside  and  load  much  of  the  grain  grown  in  the  fertile  province 
of  Santa  Fe.  Bahia  Blanca  has  even  a  greater  importance,  and 
is  growing  so  rapidly  that  it  has  not  inaptly  been  called  the 
"  Liverpool  of  the  South."  Magnificent  graving  docks  have  been 
built,  as  well  as  harbour  works,  and  the  Government,  recognising 
the  strategical  value  of  its  position  on  the  Atlantic,  have  made 
it  a  military  and" naval  depot. 
170 


Argentina 

The  growth  of  Rosario  and  Bahia  Blanca  is  a  good  thing  for 
the  country,  for  it  helps  to  counteract  the  tendency  towards 
concentration  in  the  capital,  which  is  about  the  only  real  menace 
to  the  repubhc's  continued  and  increased  prosperity.  La  Plata,  the 
other  port  which  lies  about  fifteen  miles  farther  down  the  estuary 
of  the  Plate  than  the  capital,  has  proved  a  dismal  failure.  Much 
money  has  been  wasted  in  the  attempt  to  make  a  port  for  the 
capital  at  this  spot ;  but,  in  spite  of  its  wide  streets  and  imposing 


THE   LEMON-SHAPED    DOME   OF   THE   CAPITAL. 

buildings,  the  city  has  a  neglected,  desolate  aspect,  few  persons 
cross  its  grass-grown  streets,  and  the  whole  place  is  a  good  in- 
stance of  the  Nemesis  which  overtakes  extravagant  hopes.  The 
projectors  of  the  city  showed  a  singular  lack  of  foresight  in  imagin- 
ing that  there  was  need  for  another  grand  city  within  such  easy 
distance  of  the  capital.  The  museum  at  La  Plata  is  a  magnificent 
building,  with  much  to  interest  the  anthropologist,  but  it  proves 
rather  gruesome  to  the  average  visitor,  who  is  rather  appalled 
by  the  enormous  collection  of  skulls  and  skeletons  of  American 
Indians  that  occupies  many  rooms  and  hundreds  of  cases. 

171 


A  Tour  through  South  America 

La  Plata  has  its  parks  with  muddy  httle  ponds  and  lakes, 
gardens  with  beautiful  trees,  an  avenue  of  giant  eucalyptus  trees, 
and  its  zoological  gardens,  with  a  few  specimens,  that  give  signs 
of  life  that  the  city  could  ill  spare. 

With  the  exception  of  Belgrano  and  Palermo,  which  are  filled 
with  superbly  appointed  mansions,  the  suburbs  of  Buenos  Ayres 
are  depressing  and  sordid.  As  the  town  fades  into  the  camp, 
the  houses  become  poorer  and  poorer,  streets  are  like  quagmires, 
and  old  tin  cans  are  utilised  for  building  the  shacks  occupied  by 
the  squalid  poor,  for,  like  all  great  cities,  Buenos  Ayres  has  them 
in  great  abundance,  a  mixed  lot  of  the  unfit  of  European  and 
native  races. 

But  the  cities  are  only  the  small  part  of  Argentina.  They 
are  the  exchanges  rather  than  the  creators  of  its  wealth,  a  wealth 
which  lies  in  the  far-spreading  Pampas,  which  form  the  natural 
feature  of  the  republic.  Much  has  been  written  upon  them,  and 
nearly  everyone  who  has  undertaken  the  task  has  set  on  record 
their  two  salient  characteristics,  their  apparent  limitlessness  and 
their  deadly  monotony.  The  first  hour's  journey  on  any  of  the 
railways  that  run  from  Buenos  Ayres  is  over  an  unbroken,  ex- 
pansive sea  of  green,  the  second  hour  is  the  same,  and  if  you  go 
travelling  on  until  sundown,  the  same  landscape  will  meet  the 
eye.  With  certain  necessary  variations,  Swinburne's  hues  on 
the  North  Sea  might  be  applied  to  the  Pampas  of  the  Argentine  : 

"  Miles  and  miles,  and  miles  of  desolation  I 

Leagues  on  leagues  on  leagues  without  a  change  I 

Sign  or  token  of  some  oldest  nation, 

Here  would  make  the  strange  land  not  so  strange"  ; 

or,  as  another  poet  has  phrased  it,  the  vast  prairie  seems : 
"  Almost  as  limitless  as  the  unbounded  sea,  but  without  its  changing  smile." 

But  the  dweller  in  cities  will  not  be  depressed  by  this  change- 
lessness  of  landscape.  He  will  rather  welcome  the  escape  from 
the  congested  haunts  of  man,  drinking  in  with  gusto  the  fresh 
clean  air  that  has  blown  over  countless  leagues  of  grass- 
land, and  revel  in  the  sense  of  liberty  which  comes  when  one 
stands  in  the  great  open  spaces  and  vast  solitudes  of  nature. 
If  the  unending  sweep  of  green  and  the  herds  of  innumerable 
cattle  become  oppressive,  the  eye  can  seek  relief  in  following 
flights  of  hawks  and  other  birds,  or  in  searching  for  a  clump 
172 


Argentma 


of  stunted  trees,  or  the  round  head  of  a  wind-pump,  the  sweep 
of  a  small  stream,  the  occasional  hut  of  a  shepherd,  or  the  more 
imposing  "  estancia,"  as  the  Argentina  farmhouse  is  called. 
Cattle,  horses,  and  sheep  are  never  long  out  of  the  line  of  a 
traveller's  vision,  and  with  them  the  herdsmen  of  the  plains,  the 
"  gauchos."  Although  the  Pampas  form  so  large  a  part  of  the 
territory,  they  do  not  occupy  it  all,  for  the  country  is  so  long 
that  it  boasts  all 
sorts  of  climates, 
from  the  tropical  to 
the  arctic.  To  the 
north  subtropical 
forests  abound ;  to 
the  west  the  plains 
fade  away  into  the 
mighty  Andes,  which 
tower  23,000  feet  to- 
wards the  sky ;  while 
to  the  south  lie  the 
bleak  hills  and  arid 
plains  of  Patagonia. 
Cattle-raising,  horse- 
breeding,  wheat  - 
growing,  and  meal 
preparation,  al- 
though the  staple 
industries  of  the 
Argentine,  do  not 
exhaust  the  hst. 
Mendoza,  situated  at 

a  point  where  the  Pampas  merge  into  the  foot-hills  of  the  Andes, 
is  celebrated  for  its  vinej^ards.  Poplar  trees  give  shelter  from  the 
cold  mountain  winds,  and  the  scene  might  almost  be  laid  in 
the  Rhone  valley.  Woods,  streams,  and  lakes  give  a  diversity 
which  is  welcome  to  the  traveller  who  comes  from  across  the 
plains.  Mendoza  has  plenty  of  wide  streets  and  low  one-story 
houses.  Shady  trees  line  the  roads,  and  streams  of  water  run 
down  the  gutters  all  day  long.  In  the  hot  dusty  weather  an  army 
of  boys  and  men,  equipped  with  buckets  attached  to  long  poles, 
sprinkle  the  streets  with  water  from  the  runnels.   Little  bridges  of 

173 


DESOLATION. 


A  Toiti'  throtigh  South  America 

planks  are  formed  across  the  gutters  where  they  are  too  wide 
to  step  across.  In  the  dark  and  smoky  interiors  of  the  workmen's 
cafes  and  wineshops  merry  Uttle  groups  of  bronzed  and  grizzly 
bearded  peons  sit  round  heavy,  old-fashioned  tables,  sipping 
wine  out  of  great  flagons,  smoking  big  black  cigars,  gambling, 
and  playing  cards.  Women,  with  jet-black  eyes,  and  mantillas, 
move  leisurely  about  the  streets,  seeking  always  the  shady  side, 
or  sit  upon  stiff  wooden  chairs  placed  outside  the  entrances 
to  their  homes,  plying  their  fans  vigorously  to  keep  themselves 
cool,  and  the  flies  from  settling.  The  town  is  laid  out  with  rigid 
symmetry ;  the  streets  are  wide  and  straight,  as  if  drawn  with  a 
ruler,  and  cross  one  another  at  right  angles.  New  buildings  have 
sprung  up  in  the  principal  street,  which  lies  at  the  lower  end  of 
the  town,  and  all  the  architectural  fads  and  fancies  of  recent 
years  are  represented.  Buenos  Ayres  has  set  the  fashion  for  all 
the  newer  and  progressive  towns  and  cities  in  the  republic,  and 
an  effort  is  made  in  Mendoza  to  emulate  the  outside  cafes  that 
crowd  upon  the  pavements  of  the  Avenida  in  the  capital.  Round 
the  tables,  under  the  awnings,  a  crowd  of  the  youth  of  the  city 
congregate  before  breakfast  and  dinner,  and  all  the  latest  styles 
in  clothes  are  to  be  seen,  and  the  very  latest  gossip  heard.  The 
Grand  Hotel,  which  occupies  a  large  portion  of  one  side  of  the 
Plaza,  is  an  old-fashioned  but  very  comfortable  caravansary  with 
flowery  patios  and  lofty  rooms,  and  a  fore  court  in  front,  which  is 
used  as  an  open-air  dining  space.  As  rain  seldom,  if  ever,  falls 
upon  this  town,  it  is  always  safe  to  take  a  seat  and  a  meal  in  this 
pleasant  spot.  The  popularity  of  the  courtyard  is  contributed 
to  in  the  evenings  by  the  cinema  pictures  which  are  thrown 
on  to  a  screen  stretched  on  one  side.  Crowds  gather  round  the 
tables  to  witness  the  free  show,  and  visitors  have  opportunities 
of  mixing  with  the  better  class  inhabitants.  The  evenings  are 
very  hot  during  the  summer  months,  but  the  days  are  stifling. 
Dust  is  wafted  about  in  great  clouds,  and  adds  to  the  general 
discomfort  of  the  sweltering  heat,  and  the  noondaj^  siesta  is  the 
only  refuge  for  those  fortunate  enough  to  indulge  in  this  custom 
of  the  country.  A  public  park  has  recently  been  laid  out  on  the 
rising  ground  on  the  outskirts  of  the  town.  The  fertiUty  of  the 
soil,  assisted  by  artificial  irrigation,  has  produced  a  fine  shady 
spot,  surrounded  by  rich  green  foliage.  Firs,  poplars,  palms, 
and  smaller  plants  of  many  varieties  flourish  on  this  beautiful 

174 


Argentina 

site.  The  great  Cordillera  forms  a  background  of  surpassing 
beauty  to  these  gardens,  as  well  as  an  almost  impregnable  barrier 
between  the  republics  of  Argentine  and  Chili.  In  a  corner  of  the 
park,  which  is  dotted  with  pools  of  muddy  water,  meant  for  lakes, 
there  is  a  small  collection  of  animals  and  birds,  hardly  large 
enough  to  be  called  a  "  Zoo."  The  best  specimens  it  possesses 
are  the  giant  condors,  which  are  found  upon  the  surrounding 
heights  of  the  Andes.  These  great  birds  are  formidable  enemies 
to  travellers  on  the  hills,  and  many  stories  are  told  of  their  prowess. 


LANDSCAPE    NEAR    MENDOZA. 


That  they  attack  sheep  and  even  men  can  readily  be  credited, 
for  their  outstretched  wings  frequently  measure  from  eight  to 
ten  feet  across,  while  their  beaks  and  talons  are  equally  strong 
and  powerful..  A  flock  of  these  aerial  monsters,  saihng  near  a 
narrow  mountain  pass,  would  scare  the  nerves  of  any  traveller, 
for  an  encounter  with  them  on  the  edge  of  a  precipice  is  rather 
a  one-sided  affair,  in  which  the  odds  are  all  in  favour  of  the  birds. 
The  other  exhibits  in  the  gardens  are  mostly  native  fauna,  and 
there  is  plenty  of  room  for  future  extensions.  The  vineyards 
round  the  town  and  in  the  surrounding  districts  are  shaded  by 
tall  poplar  trees,  and  irrigated  by  small  canals,  for  nature  is  all 

.      175 


A  Tottr  throngh  South  America 


too  sparing  of  the  "gentle  rain"  in  this  sunny  region.  The 
water  for  these  canals  is  derived  from  mountain  streams,  formed 
by  the  melted  snow,  and  there  is  no  limit  to  quantities  available. 
The  dry  air  of  Mendoza  and  the  altitude  (it  is  2700  feet  above  sea- 
level)  render  it  a  most  desirable  place  of  residence  for  persons 

troubled  with  pulmonary 
complaints,  and  the  perpetual 
sunshine  which  covers  the 
landscape  makes  for  cheerful- 
ness, in  spite  of  the  heat. 
The  wine  of  this  district  is 
much  appreciated  locally, 
although  the  bulk  of  it  finds 
its  market  in  the  provinces  of 
Buenos  Ayres  and  Santa  Fe. 
The  best  qualities  are  really 
good,  although  they  might 
not  tempt  the  connoisseur 
accustomed  to  the  wines  of 
France  to  forsake  his  vintage. 
Mendoza  is  an  important 
station  on  the  Trans-Andean 
Railway  route,  and  man\' 
passengers  from  Buenos 
Ayres  to  Valparaiso  find  it 
a  pleasant  resting-place  on 
the  long  and  trying  journey. 
After  nearly  twenty-four 
hours  in  the  train  which 
crosses  the  monotonous 
plains,  a  day's  or  a  night's 
rest  at  Mcndcza  acts  as  a  pick-me-up  of  which  delicate  people 
should  always  avail  themselves.  Although  the  railway  across 
or  through  the  summit  of  the  Andes  is  now  completed,  and  is 
available  for  passengers  nearly  the  whole  year  round,  the  summer 
months  from  November  to  April  are  the  best  for  making  this  trip. 
Until  quite  recently  the  seven-hour  journey  by  coach  or  mule- 
back,  from  Las  Cuevas  to  Salado,  deterred  many  from  making 
the  journey,  but  now  that  the  trains  run  backwards  and  forwards 
through  the  tunnel  at  the  summit,  no  one  considers  the  journey 

176 


E   BRIDGE   OF    THE    INCA. 


Argentina 


in  the  light  of  an  undertaking.  The  scenery  is  grand.  Majestic 
and  rugged  mountain  tops  covered  with  dazzhng  white  snow  He 
round  on  all  sides,  and  as  the  train  winds  round  the  slopes,  over 
valleys  and  ravines,  an  endless  succession  of  strange  rocky  forms 
are  passed.  Just  before  coming  to  Las  Cuevas  the  train  stops  at 
a  little  station,  where  there  is  a  small  hotel  patronised  by  moun- 
taineers and  excursionists  who  desire  to  spend  a  day  or  two  among 
the  rugged  peaks.  It  is  nearly  nine  thousand  feet  above  sea-level, 
and  quite  near  to  the  railway  track — a  curious  compact  mass 
of  stones  and  gravel  forms  a  natural  bridge  over  a  small  river. 
This  bridge  gives  its 
name  to  the  station 
—  Punta  del  Inca. 
Many  passages  in  the 
journey  are  awe-in- 
spiring, and  as  the 
route  follows  that 
taken  by  San  Martin 
on  his  famous  march 
into  Chih  a  good  idea 
can  be  formed  of  the 
difficult  nature  of  his 
undertaking.  Great 
brown  hills,  destitute 
of  vegetation,  rocky 
and  sandy,  predomi- 
nate.  Immense 
boulders,      which 

threaten  to  fall  at  any  moment,  hang  menacingly  over  the  track, 
which  is  protected  in  many  places  by  stout  iron  sheds.  Fallen 
boulders  and  rocks  brought  down  by  storms  and  the  melting  snows 
lie  scattered  in  wild  disorder  over  the  valleys.  The  scenes  are  full 
of  a  melancholy  which  even  the  bright  sunhght  reflected  from  the 
snowy  peaks  cannot  dispel.  The  distant  peak  of  Aconcagua  rising 
to  the  enormous  height  of  nearly  twenty- three  thousand  feet,  comes 
into  view  from  time  to  time  as  the  train  winds  around  its  tortuous 
course.  At  the  highest  points  reached  by  the  line  many  of  the 
passengers  suffer  from  the  "  mountain  sickness,"  but  only  a  few 
resolve  to  brave  the  "  Straits  "  in  future  rather  than  repeat  the 
Andean  journey.  At  Soldado,  the  frontier  station,  the  customs 
.   M  177 


CROasi.No    iiiB.    hiLlo. 


A  Tour  through  South  America 


examine  the  baggage,  and  at  Los  Andes  carriages  are  changed, 
and  the  journey  down  to  Santiago  and  Valparaiso,  through  richly 
wooded  slopes,  is  accomplished  in  about  four  hours.  The  traffic 
between  Chili  and  Argentina  is  steadily  increasing,  and  the 
estabhshment  of  the  Trans- Andean  Railway  has  done  much  to 
bring  about  a  more  intimate  friendship  between  the  two  nations. 
The  history  of  the  i\.rgentine  nation  has  followed  similar  lines 
to  those  of  its  sister  republics.  The  conquest  by  the  Spaniards 
was  followed  by  a  long  colonial  period,  which  came  to  an  end 

when  the  people, 
after  a  desperate 
struggle,  won  their 
independence.  Since 
then  it  has  had  its 
wars  with  neigh- 
bouring States,  and, 
like  all  the  rest  of 
the  repubUcs,  in- 
numerable inter- 
necine quarrels.  But 
of  late  years  more 
peaceful  counsels 
have  prevailed,  and 
the  settlement  of  the  boundary  dispute  with  Chili,  through  the  more 
sensible  medium  of  arbitration,  is  a  good  augury  for  the  future. 
Out  of  the  war  for  independence  a  great  and  commanding  per- 
sonality emerges.  General  San  Martin  might  almost  be  called 
the  Brutus  of  South  America — the  noblest  of  them  all.  The 
Argentines  recognise  this,  and  have  expressed  their  admiration 
and  gratitude  by  erecting  a  statue  to  him  in  the  pubHc  square 
of  every  town  in  the  country,  an  act  which  though  admirable  is 
apt  to  bore  the  traveller.  Brave,  patriotic,  able  in  warfare, 
and  unselfish  are  the  qualities  w^hich  can  be  ascribed  in  all  fairness 
to  San  Martin.  In  many  respects  he  may  be  overshadowed  by 
Bolivar,  but  he  had  none  of  the  latter's  weakness,  none  of  his 
faults  or  crimes.  His  sole  aim  was  to  drive  the  oppressor  out  of 
his  native  land,  and  he  not  only  succeeded  in  doing  this,  but  also 
materially  assisted  in  breaking  the  power  of  Spain  in  Chili  and 
Peru.  When  his  great  task  was  accomplished  he  retired  quietly 
from  the  scene  of  conflict,  disdaining  to  compete  for  power  with 

178 


A   GLIMPSE    OF   ACONCAGUA. 


Argentina 

self-seeking,  unscrupulous  politicians.  His  was  a  mind  utterly 
incapable  of  intrigue,  so  he  was  content  to  leave  the  wily  Bolivar 
to  his  desperate  devices  and  his  colossal  dreams  of  empire. 


IRAVILLLERS    BV    A    RIVER-SIDE. 


179 


CHTAPTER    XVI 
The  Camp 

TO  a  European  the  farms  of  South  America  offer  such  con- 
trasts to  those  he  is  famihar  with  in  his  own  country 
that  he  finds  it  difficult  to  become  accustomed  to  the  immense 
areas  of  treeless  plains  that  constitute  the  estancias  of  the  New 
World.  Everything  is  on  a  large  scale  there.  A  vast  territory, 
now  gently  rolling  like  a  heaving  sea,  now  flat  as  an  unruffled 
lake,  with  few  objects  to  break  the  eternal  straightness  of  the 
distant  horizon.  The  atmosphere  and  the  many  illusions  it  creates 
offer  the  greatest  variety,  however,  and  as  day  succeeds  day  with 
ceaseless  regularity  ever  changing  effects  of  light  and  colour 
diversify  the  aspect  of  the  landscape.  The  roads  through  these 
unbounded  plains  are  wide-extended  tracks,  fenced  in  from  the 
private  pastures  of  the  estancias,  going  generally  straight  for 
scores  of  miles.  Driving  along  these  tracks  behind  four  horses 
in  a  light  covered  trap  the  stranger's  ear  is  open  to  receive  the 
softest  sound,  and  eyes  to  note  the  slightest  variations  presented. 
The  silence  is  broken  by  the  fluttering  flight  of  parrots,  pigeons, 
and  small  brown  owls  disturbed  from  their  solemn  doze  by  the 
approaching  team,  moving  on  from  perch  to  perch,  always 
settHng  ahead  to  be  disturbed  again.  The  lowing  of  the  cattle, 
the  swift  stampede  of  groups  of  wild  horses,  and  the  vast 
hum  of  insects  break  faintly  upon  the  ear.  Along  the  track  and 
in  the  adjacent  fields  the  whitening  bones  of  animals  stare  out 
from  the  rich  verdure  that  has  not  quite  enwrapped  them.  These 
pathetic  reminders  of  the  fate  that  overtakes  many  of  the  herd 
are  very  plentiful,  for  whenever  an  animal  dies  in  the  camp,  the 
skin  only  is  removed  by  the  gaucho  or  cowboy,  who  comes  across 
it  in  his  daily  round,  and  the  carcase  is  left  for  the  hawks  and 
other  carrion-eaters,  who  lose  no  time  in  stripping  it  of  flesh,  time 
1 80 


The  Camp 


and  the  elements  slowly  completing  the  dissolution,  and  eventually 
removing  the  last  vestiges  of  the  animal's  existence. 

From  the  beginning  to  the  end  of  a  journey  tall  rheas  flit  across 
the  scene.  These  birds,  the  ostriches  of  South  America,  abound 
in  many  districts.  They  formerly  had  a  geographical  range 
extending  from  Southern  Brazil  and  Uruguay  to  as  far  south  as 
the  Rio  Negro  in  distant  Patagonia.  But  the  incursions  of  man, 
who  slew  thousands  of  them  for  their  feathers,  have  cleared  the 


CHASING   RHEAS. 


more  cultivated  districts,  and  now  they  are  mostly  found  on  the 
camps  of  Uruguay,  and  the  provinces  of  Corrientes  and  Missiones, 
and  Paraguay.  The  Rhea  americana  resembles  its  distant  relative 
in  South  Africa  in  general  appearance,  but  differs  widely  w^hen 
inspected  closely.  It  boasts  three  toes,  and  thus  goes  one  better 
than  the  ostrich.  It  is  true  its  plumage  cannot  compete  with  that 
of  the  latter  bird,  for  it  lacks  the  beautiful  curly  wing  and  fail 
feathers.  This  is  perhaps  an  advantage  to  the  bird,  although 
a  loss  to  the  country.   The  feathers  af  the  head  and  neck  are  a 

i8i 


A  Tour  through  South  America 

dingy  white,  those  on  the  crown  of  the  head  are  of  a  brownish 
hue,  while  the  under  feathers  of  the  belly  and  thigh  are  white, 
the  body  feathers  being  a  grey-brown  colour.  These  feathers 
can  only  serve  the  useful  purpose  of  making  brushes,  and  have 
no  claims  to  be  promoted  to  the  high  office  of  adorning  ladies' 
bonnets.  The  rhea  is  a  polygamous  bird,  and  the  male  so 
thoroughly  domesticated  that  he  performs  the  duty  of  hatching 
out  the  eggs  of  several  of  his  wives.  Their  nests  of  dried  grass 
are  easily  found,  for  they  have  no  protection  save  the  long  grass 
that  grows  around  them.  On  the  approach  of  danger  the  parent 
birds  sitting  upon  the  nests  rise  and  take  to  flight,  running  with 
rapid  strides  and  outstretched  wings,  and  soon  are  lost  to  sight 
in  the  airy  distance  of  the  plains.  On  most  of  the  camps  the 
chasing  of  the  birds  is  forbidden,  although  instructions  are  given 
to  destroy  their  eggs.  The  race  between  bird  and  mounted  pursuer 
disturbs  the  herds,  and  does  more  harm  to  the  live  stock  than 
would  be  compensated  for  by  the  feathers  that  may  be  plucked. 
On  some  native  estancias  the  practice  obtains  of  leasing  out  the 
right  to  capture  the  birds  and  pluck  them.  This  is  accomplished 
by  throwing  three  heavy  balls  attached  to  the  end  of  a  long 
line  round  the  legs  of  the  running  birds.  The  horseman  chases 
the  bird,  and  swinging  the  balls  round,  lets  fly  with  the  captive 
shots,  which,  if  the  aim  is  true,  wind  the  rope  round  the  victim's 
legs  and  quickly  bring  him  to  earth.  The  desired  feathers  are 
plucked,  and  the  denuded  bird  allowed  to  escape.  It  is  no  un- 
common thing,  however,  to  see  a  few  gauchos  for  pure  sport 
surreptitiously  chasing  these  birds.  The  excitement  of  the  chase 
appeals  to  men  who  live  in  the  saddle,  and  w^ho  love  to  show  off 
the  fleetness  of  their  steeds,  and  even  a  chance  spectator  who 
witnesses  the  wild  rush  of  bird  and  horse  across  country  cannot 
help  catching  some  of  the  enthusiasm,  and  strains  his  vision 
to  its  utmost  to  witness  the  finish  of  a  race.  There  is  no  shelter 
for  the  bird,  no  way  of  escaping  the  unwelcome  attentions  of 
his  pursuer  except  by  sheer  fleetness  and  endurance.  The  illimit- 
able camp  stretches  around  for  hundreds  of  miles,  and  the  essential 
qualities  of  bird  and  horse  have  a  fair  field  and  no  favour.  The 
rhea  is  a  sociable  bird,  and  is  generally  found  in  untrodden  regions 
of  the  continent,  grazing  with  the  llamas  and  wild  cattle  in  close 
proximity  to  or  on  the  estancias  that  are  under  man's  control, 
along  with  the  great  herds  of  sheep  and  cattle.  In  this  he  is  like 
182 


The.  Camp 

the  ostrich,  who  accepts  the  companionship  of  the  antelope  and 
zebra  of  his  native  land.  There  is  plenty  of  room  on  the  great 
plains  for  all,  and  they  live  at  peace  with  neighbours  who  offer 
no  competition  in  the  struggle  for  existence.  Another  curiosity 
of  the  camp  is  the  httle  "  armadillo."  It  is  true  one  has  to  search 
lor  them,  for  they  are  nocturnal  in  their  habits,  and  not  often  en- 
countered in  the  daytime.  They  are  well  protected  with  a  hard, 
strong  shell  which  covers  their  backs,  and  when  in  danger  they  can 
move  very  quickly  on  their  short,  strong  legs,  or  canbury  themselves 
underground  until  the  danger  that  threatens  them  is  past.  Night 
is  the  best  time  to  catch  them,  and  dogs  are  used  in  the  pursuit. 
The  armadillo  is  found  all  over  South  America,  and  in  the  lone 
caves  of  Brazil  the  fossil  remains  of  gigantic  ancestors  of  this 
creature  as  large  as  the  rhino  of  Africa  have  frequently  been 
discovered.  The  armadillos  generally  feed  on  roots,  worms, 
and  insects,  and  they  assist  the  hawks  and  other  carrion-eaters 
to  dispose  of  the  putrefying  carcases  of  cattle,  sheep,  and  horses 
that  strew  the  camp.  The  flesh  of  this  armour-plated  animal  is 
eaten,  and  is  considered  a  delicacy  by  the  natives  all  over  the 
country  from  north  to  south.  It  is  generally  roasted  or  smoked 
in  its  shell,  and  the  Indians  of  the  Guiana  \^'ill  gorge  themselves 
upon  this  dish  whenever  they  have  an  opportunity. 

The  great  distances  that  separate  many  of  the  estancias  from 
the  stations  or  ports  give  employment  to  thousands  of  horses, 
and  the  usual  method  of  travelling  is  either  by  riding  or  driving 
in  light  covered  carts  drawn  by  four  horses.  If  the  journey  is 
very  long,  eight  horses  are  taken,  half  of  them  drawing  the  carriage, 
the  other  half  being  driven  on  in  front,  and  harnessed  at  some 
half-way  point,  an  estancia  or  "  pulperia,"  where  the  first  team 
is  released  and  allowed  to  rest  until  the  return  of  the  conveyance 
from  its  destination.  These  pulperia  or  native  stores  are  very 
primitive  affairs.  A  few  sticks  mud-plastered  form  the  walls, 
mother  earth  the  floor,  while  reeds  and  grasses  thatch  the  roof. 
When  the  traveller  arrives  at  one  of  these  he  generally  finds 
a  few  horses,  with  fore  feet  hobbled,  dozing  under  the  shade  cast 
by  a  few  trees  that  are  planted  round  the  huts,  swishing  their 
tails  to  keep  away  the  flies.  Inside  the  hut  or  store  two  or  three 
gauchos  squat  on  boxes,  bags,  or  barrels,  and  in  the  intervals 
of  drinking  their  native  spirit,  "bolichi "  (a fiery,  untamed  brand), 
chat  with  the  "  bolichero."  or  publican.    The  talk  is  all  of  the 

>83 


A  Tour  through  South  America 

camp,  for  the  outside  world  of  civilisation  is  only  a  name  to 
them,  and  the  echoes  of  its  doings  fall  but  faintly  upon  their 
ears.  Horses,  cattle,  the  doings  of  the  neighbouring  estancias 
are  discussed  with  the  dark -bearded  host,  who  is  the  newsvendof 


rULPERIA. 


to  the  country-side.  Shepherds  from  far  outlying  "  puestos," 
who  live  in  solitary  isolation  frorii  even  the  other  gauchos  of 
the  estancias,  find  their  visits  to  these  wayside  inns  the  principal 
excitement  of  their  lives.  Long  journeys  of  scores  of  miles,  that 
would  be  an  expedition  to  an  English  horseman,  are  nothing  to 
184 


The  Camp 

them.  They  are  as  much  at  home  and  at  their  ease  in  their  great 
saddles,  as  a  club  man  is  in  a  smoking-room  chair,  and  they  can 
sleep  in  them  as  easily  as  in  their  beds.  *The  gaucho  and  his  horse 
are  one,  inseparable,  and  if  the  animal  is  his  own  and  not  one 
belonging  to  the  estancia,  he  takes  extravagant  care  of  it.  With 
his  poncho  to  keep  off  the  rain,  his  cigar  or  cigarette,  his  ''  mate  " 
to  make  his  tea  in,  the  gaucho  is  equipped  for  any  emergency. 
In  some  of  the  "pulperias"  there  are  small  billiard  tables,  not 
too  level ;  for  they  rest  upon  the  soft  earthen  floor,  and  when 
not  in  play  are  often  as  not  used  for  seats  by  the  gossips  who 
may  happen  to  forgather.  Primitive,  yet  affording  much  of  the 
luxury  the  gaucho  finds  in  his  hard  life,  here  also  he  can  replenish 
his  wardrobe- and  his  larder,  for  belts,  knives,  "  alpagatos  "  (shoes 
with  rope  soles  and  canvas  tops),  ponchos,  hang  all  round,  and 
in  sacks  upon  the  ground  manioca  or  meal  lies  ready  for  a  pur- 
chaser. The  goods  retailed  are  of  the  cheapest  description,  most 
of  them  of  German  origin,  and  especially  made  to  suit  the  gauchos' 
requirements.  Primitive  ideas  obtain  amongst  these  people, 
and  many  superstitions  too.  In  one  of  these  "  pulperias  "  I  noticed 
a  small  pup  of  only  a  few  days  old,  lying  upon  the  floor  whining 
piteously  for  its  miother  ;  and  on  my  noticing  it,  the  bolichero 
explained  that  it  was  in  transit  to  a  native  woman  who  was 
suffering  from  a  too  liberal  secretion  of  milk.  The  dress  of  the 
gauchos  of  Uruguay  and  in  the  northern  provinces  of  Argentina 
is  strongly  reminiscent  of  the  quaint  costumes  worn  by  the  old- 
fashioned  residents  in  the  island  of  Marken  in  the  Zuyder  Zee. 
The  great  baggy  trousers  called  "  bombachos  "  are  the  feature  of 
the  dress  common  to  both,  and  are  so  distinctive  that  one  wonders 
if  there  can  be  any  connection  between  them.  At  all  events,, 
they  are  well  suited  for  riding  in  -a  hot  climate,  for  they  permit 
the  air  to  circulate  freely  about  the  nether  limbs.  Apart  from 
the  bombachos,  the  dress  of  the  gaucho  has  but  little  in  common 
with  the  old-time  Dutchman,  unless  it  be  the  tight  waistcoats 
and  close-fitting  sleeves  of  the  shirts  affected  by  many  of  them. 
The}^  are  fond  of  a  touch  of  colour,  however,  and  although 
the  material  out  of  which  their  bombachos  are  made  is  generally 
of  natural  tints,  their  socks  will  vie  with  the  most  glaring  neck- 
tie of  a  Brazilian  gentleman.  Emerald-green,  sky-blue,  chrome- 
yellow,  and  scar  let- vermilion  fresh  placed  upon  a  palette  are 
not  more  striking,  and  all  these  are  generally  selected  to  enhance 

185 


A  Totir  through  South  America 


the  beauty  of  their  ponchos.  The  poncho  is  an  overall,  a  gigantic 
fore-and-aft  bib,  sleeveless,  but  an  admirable  protection  from 
the  heat  and  rain.  Hanging  loosely  from  the  shoulders,  it  covers 
the  arms  in  its  ample  folds,  and,  like  the  "  bombachos,"  allows  the 
air  to  blow  round  the  heated  body.  This  narrow  sheet,  with  a 
slit  in  the  middle,  is  found  all  over  South  America  and  in  Mexico, 
and  it  has  many  advantages  to  recommend  it  over  a  sleeved 
garment.  In  Chili  and  Peru  the  better  ones  are  made  out  of  the 
llama  wool,  so  fine  and  hard  that  they  are  almost  impervious  to 
rain,  while  their  hghtness  is  such  that  their  weight  is  hardly  felt. 
A  good  poncho  in  Chili  or  Peru  often  costs  as  much  as  £20,  but 
those  worn  by  the  gauchos  of  Argentine  and  Uruguay  are  quite 

cheap  and  tawdry  in 
comparison.  The 
gaucho  takes  a  great 
pride  in  the  accoutre- 
ments of  his  horse, 
and  he  spends  con- 
siderable time  and 
pains  to  have  his 
best  Sunday  or  holi- 
day saddle  and  bridle 
replete  with  a  collec- 
tion of  old  Spanish 
coins  nailed  on  to 
the  leather  wherever  opportunity  offers.  Brilliant  red  plush  or 
dyed  sheepskin  is  placed  over  the  saddle,  and  when  he  is  mounted 
wearing  his  best  "poncho"  and  "bombachos,"  and  broad  sombrero 
hat,  he  cuts  a  brave  figure  to  go  courting.  On  the  camp  his  life  is 
one  of  simple  monotony,  one  continuous  round  of  hard  riding  and 
attending  to  the  cattle,  searching  the  herds  for  sickness  or  round- 
ing them  up  into  "rodeo"  to  separate  those  that  are  ready  for  the 
journey  to  the  "  saladero,"  "  frigorifico,"  or  meat  factory,  branding 
the  young  cattle  with  the  mark  of  the  estancia,  either  by  slitting 
their  ears  or  puncturing  them,  or  with  the  hot  iron  burning  in 
a  distinctive  number  upon  the  haunch.  He  rises  at  dayhght, 
generally  about  five  o'clock,  and  in  the  common,  soot-stained 
kitchen — the  "  cocina  "  cuts  a  great  hunk  of  roasted  beef,  takes 
a  small  handful  of  farina,  and  washes  this  down  with  draughts 
of  yerba  sucked  through  the  "  bombilla  "  (a  little  tube  of  metal 
186 


MORNING  :   GOING    TO   WORK. 


The  Camp 

with  a  bulbous  strainer)  from  the  httle  scooped-out  gourd  or 
mate  which  he  ahvays  carries  with  him.  Then  his  day's  \\ox\i 
begins.  After  harnessing  his  horse,  he  mounts  and  separates  from 
his  companions,  each  of  whom  takes  a  different  direction — riding 
out  to  the  particular  paddock  allotted  to  his  care.  In  his  long, 
lonely  patrol  he  keeps  his-  eye  ever  on  the  alert  to  discover  any 
sick  or  dead  animals  that  may  be  lying  in  the  long  grass.  His 
keen  and  practised  eye  watches  the  flight  of  the  carrion -birds, 


EVENING. 


and  when  he  sees  these  greedy  scavengers  gathering  together  he 
knows  their  quarry  is  not  far  off.  With  these  to  guide  him,  he 
searches  till  he  finds  the  carcase,  which  he  carefully  inspects  to 
ascertain  the  cause  of  death.  If  it  is  of  a  mahgnant-  nature,  he 
gathers  together  dried  grass  and  scrub  with  branches  of  trees, 
which  he  often  has  to  go  miles  to  discover,  and  placing  them  round 
the  carcase,  sets  fire  to  it,  to  prevent  infection  from  spreading 
to  the  herds.  If  the  cause  of  death  is  not  of  this  nature  he  quickly 
removes  the  hide,  ties  it  upon  his  saddle,  and  continues  on  his 

187 


A  Tour  through  South  Ajiierica 

round  of  inspection.  It  is  six  or  seven  hours  before  he  returns 
to  the  estancia,  where  he  pegs  out  the  hides  he  has  brought  with 
him  before  sitting  down  to  his  *'  almuerzo,"  or  midday  meal. 
This  eleven  o'clock  repast  varies  slightly  from  the  one  he  partook 
of  in  the  early  morning,  consisting  as  it  does  of  "  puchero,"  or 
boiled  meat  instead  of  roasted.  The  meal  finished,  there  are 
duties  about  the  steading  to  be  seen  to,  and  in  the  heat  of  the  day 
the  siesta  to  be  indulged  in.  At  three  o'clock  he  has  another  meal, 
consisting  of  mate  alone,  before  going  out  again  to  the  camp ; 
and  on  his  return  at  seven  in  the  evening  he  talks  over  the  details 
of  the  day's  doings  with  his  fellows  over  another  meal  of  the  boiled 
beef,  "mate,"  and  farina.  After  a  smoke,  a  little  music  from  a 
banjo  or  guitar  played  with  an  untutored  skill  by  one  of  the 
party,  they  seek  their  beds — simple  pallets  of  canvas  stretched 
between  collapsible  trestles,  something  like  exaggerated  camp- 
stools.  Next  day  the  same  round  of  duties  awaits  him,  except 
for  the  variations  that  arise  at  special  seasons  when  sheep-shearing, 
cattle-branding,  calf-gelding,  horse-breaking  are  going  forward. 
Large  numbers  of  horses  run  and  breed  practically  in  a  wild  state 
upon  the  estancias,  and  the  task  of  breaking  them  in  falls  to  the 
gauchos.  This  is  an  art  and  a  pastime  that  they  revel  in,  and 
as  they  are  paid  extra  for  every  colt  that  they  render  fit  for 
riding,  there  is  no  dearth  of  volunteers  for  this  necessary  part 
of  the  estancia  work.  A  herd  of  horses  is  driven  up  by  a  bunch 
of  horsemen  into  a  corral.  The  colt  or  filly  to  be  broken  is  singled 
out  and  lassoed  by  one  of  the  men,  who  drags  it  out  into  the  open. 
More  lassoes  are  fastened  round  the  fore  and  hind  legs,  and  the 
animal  is  brought  to  earth.  After  a  raw-hide  bit  is  fastened  round 
its  lower  jaw,  the  frightened  creature  is  allowed  to  regain  a  stand- 
ing position,  and  is  hitched  up  to  a  post.  One  man  covers  its  eyes, 
whilst  a  great  bundle  of  soft  sheepskins  is  being  fastened  securely 
on  its  back.  All  this  time  the  fore  legs  are  kept  firmly  tied 
together.  When  all  is  ready,  the  man  who  is  to  break  it  in  grasps 
the  raw-hide  bridle,  and  jumps  lightly  on  its  back.  Then 
the  struggle  between  man  and  brute  commences  in  grim  earnest. 
With  a  powerful  whip  the  man  belabours  the  strugghng  steed, 
and  with  a  horseman  riding  on  either  side  to  guide  the  wild  beast, 
the  trio  gallop  off  across  the  plain  at  a  break-neck  pace.  Before 
this  mad  race  is  started,  the  untamed  one  struggles  and  bucks 
to  rid  himself  of  the  unnatural  encumbrance.  He  rolls  on  the 
i88 


The  Cauip 

ground,  lowers  his  head,  and  throws  his  unshod  heels  high  into 
the  air,  and  then  finding  that  all  his  efforts  are  vain,  he  tears  off 
in  a  wild  fury,  hoping  to  get  relief.  The  race  continues  until  the 
brute's  strength  weakens,  and  he  is  turned  by  the  accompanying 


PEGGING    OUT    iiiDES. 


riders,  for  he  does  not  yet  understand,  nor  if  he  could,  would  he 
yield  to  the  guidance  of  the  bridle.  When  the  trio  return  to  the 
"  corral,"  where  a  crowd  of  gauchos  have  stood  witnessing  the  fun, 
the  exhausted  animal  is  relieved  of  man,  saddle,  and  bridle,  and 

189 


A  Tour  through  South  America 

is  turned  loose  amongst  his  fellows  in  the  corral.  Then  they 
are  all  set  at  liberty  to  roam  tlie  paddock  till  the  next  day,  when 
the  operation  is  repeated.  It  takes  many  lessons  to  break  in  a 
horse,  and  the  sudden  change  from  the  completest  freedom  to 
the  fastest  bondage  is  no  doubt  very  irksome  to  the  animal. 
After  about  three  or  four  weeks  of  training,  however,  the  horse's 
lesson  is  learnt,  and  the  man's  reward  is  earned.  There  still 
exists  on  some  estancias  the  primitive  custom  of  branding  the 
cattle  in  almost  as  rough  a  fashion  as  the  breaking  in  of  the  horses. 
The  herds  are  rounded  up  by  the  horseman  into  a  great  bunch, 
called  a  rodeo.  The  unbranded  are  lassoed  by  the  head  and 
horns,  and  dragged  out  of  the  bellowing  crowd.  Another  lasso  is 
thrown  and  captures  the  hind  legs,  and  the  animal,  then  completely 
overcome,  is  thrown  on  its  side  and  the  branding  iron  applied.  In 
modern  camps  an  easier  method  is  employed.  The  cattle  are 
"  corralled  "  and  driven  through  a  long  spar-railed  passage  in  which 
gates  are  arranged  for  the  purpose  of  dividing  the  cattle  into 
different  groups,  so  that  as  the  animals  move  along,  and  one 
is  required  to  go  one  way,  a  gate  is  opened,  allowing  it  to  pass 
out,  the  gate  closing  behind  it,  and  leaving  the  passage  free  for 
the  next  to  move  into  another  division  if  desired.  The  branding 
is  performed  in  this  passage.  One  man  grasps  the  animal's  tail 
and  pulls  it  through  the  open  fence  of  the  "  race  "  or  passage,  whilst 
another  catches  the  horns  and  holds  the  head  firmly  against 
the  opposite  side.  If  the  brand  is  to  be  applied  to  the  rump,  the 
position  is  in  every  way  favourable  for  performing  that  operation  ; 
.should  the  brand  of  the  estancia  be  an  ear-mark,  the  head  is  in 
an  equally  advantageous  position. 

Branding  is  a  very  necessary  precaution  against  cattle- 
stealing.  When  an  "  estanciero"  parts  with  his  cattle,  he  duplicates 
the  brand  and  the  new  owner  applies  his,  so  that  the  animal  has 
three  brands  upon  it.  This  prevents  stealing,  for  if  an  animal  has 
only  one  brand  of  its  original  owner,  it  is  obvious  to  the  authorities 
that  it  has  not  been  legitimately  acquired.  A  brand  in  duphcate 
upon  an  animal  is  evidence  that  it  is  no  longer  in  the  possession 
of  the  owner  of  that  brand.  Should  he,  however,  repurchase 
one  of  his  former  stock,  it  will  have  four  brands  upon  it,  the 
two  original  ones  and  the  two  added  by  the  last  owner.  Trans- 
actions, however,  of  this  kind  are  not  of  frequent  occurrence. 
Ear-marking  is  a  form  of  branding  that  in  some  instances  looks 
190 


The  Camp 

very  unsightly,  as,  for  instance,  when  both  ears  are  sht  down, 
giving  the  animal  the  appearance  of  having  four  ears. 

The  sheep  and  cattle  dips  which  are  necessary  to  rid  the 
herds  of  ticks  and  other  insects,  form  landmarks  on  the  camps, 
as  do  the  iron-frame  windmills  which  pump  up  the  water  for  the 
stock.    There   has   been   much   discussion  recently   as  to  what 


AN    "ESTANCIA. 


is  the  coat  of  arms  of  the  Argentine  Republic,  and  this  nice  question 
in  heraldry  has  not  yet  been  settled.  To  a  stranger  the  matter 
seems  simple  enough,  for  nothing  could  be  more  suitable  than  a 
windmill  revolving  against  an  azure  sky,  or  a  herd  romping  on  a 
"  field  vert." 

The  *' corrals"  and  runs  upon  the  estancia  are  used  for  many 
purposes,  such  as  dividing  the  old  from  the  young,  the  bulls 
and  heifers  from  the  cows,  the  animals  that  are  to  be  sold  from 

191 


A  Tour  throu<yIi  Soutli  America 


'<b 


their  brothers  and  sisters  that  are  not  yet  ready  for  disposal. 
Other  "runs  "  are  used  for  dipping  purposes.  In  these  the  floor  of 
the  "runs  "  gradually  descends  into  a  long  trough  through  which 
the  animals  have  to  swim,  their  heads  being  pushed  under  by  men 
armed  with  long  poles,  who  are  stationed  on  the  fences  at  either 
side.  Sheep  are  handled  in  the  same  way.  The  dipping  corrals 
are  situated  on  different  parts  of  the  estancia  in  selected  positions, 
and  when  these  are  at  a  long  distance  from  the  farmhouse  the 
men,  when  employed  there,  cook  their  meals  of  great  lumps  of 
beef  over  a  blaze  of  crackling  sticks.  The  meat  is  hooked  on  to 
a  long  iron  bar  which  is  stuck  upright  in  the  ground,  and  the 
savoury  smell  of  the  roasting,  crackling  meat  fills  the  air.  When 
it  is  ready  the  spit  is  removed  from  the  fire  and  stuck  in  the 
ground  a  little  distance  off,  and  the  men  gather  round,  and  with 
their  knives  hack  off  great  chunks  weighing  three  or  four  pounds, 
and  set  to  with  the  meat  in  one  hand  and  the  knife  in  the  other, 
satisfying  their  healthy  appetites.  There  is  great  waste  at  all 
these  meals ;  the  joint  is  not  nearly  consumed,  and  what  is  left 
is  thrown  into  the  long  grass  or  into  the  dying  embers  of 
the  fire.  A  kettle  is  always  carried  by  one  or  other  of  the  men 
to  make  the  "  mate  "  tea  which  washes  down  every  meal.  Yerba 
has  a  great  reputation,  and  is  largely  consumed  all  over  the 
southern  parts  of  Brazil,  Uruguay,  and  the  Argentine,  and  even 
further  south.  To  Europeans  it  is  generally  known  by  the  name 
of  Paraguayan  tea,  for,  although  it  grows  in  Brazil,  Corrientes, 
and  the  Chaco,  its  real  home  is  in  Paraguay,  where  it  flourishes 
in  great  abundance,  and  its  cultivation  and  collection  form  one 
of  the  principal  industries.  It  is  simply  the  dried  leaves  of  a  shrub 
that  "very  much  resembles  the  common  holly  bush.  It  has  been  in 
use  by  the  Indians  for  centuries,  although  it  was  due  to  the  untiring 
agricultural  efforts  of  the  Jesuits  that  its  cultivation  was  first 
introduced.  The  plantations  they  made  in  Paraguay,  Missiones, 
and  Rio  Grande  de  Sul  are  still  to  the  fore,  and  from  these  culti- 
vated shrubs  the  best  tea  is  obtained  even  at  the  present  time,  and 
it  sometimes  goes  by  the  name  of  "  Jesuits'  "  or  "  Missiones  tea." 

The  collecting  and  preparation  of  the  leaves  of  this  shrub  are 
generally  performed  by  the  Guarani  Indians  of  the  surrounding 
districts.  The  old-fashioned  and  native  method  of  preparing 
the  mate  or  yerba  is  quite  primitive.  A  group  of  semi- 
nomadic  Indians  will  search  for  a  "  Yerbula "  or  natural 
192 


The  Camp 


wood  where  the  supply  is  plentiful,  and  after  forming  a  small 
camp  of  brush  huts,  proceed  to  collect  and  prepare  the  leaves  for 
market.  They  clear  a  space  of  ground  which  they  beat  hard 
until  it  resembles  a  dark  cemented  floor,  and  upon  this  they 
pile  the  leafy  branches  of  the  tree.   A  fire  is  lit  around  this,  care 


GAUCHO    PREI'ARING    A    MEAL 


being  taken  not  to  ignite  the  branches  and  leaves,  -which  undergo 
by  this  means  a  primitive  process  of  roasting.  The  dried  leaves 
are  then  reduced  to  powder  in  rough  mortars  formed  by  making 
holes  in  the  ground,  the  surfaces  of  which  are  rammed  hard  by 
wooden  mallets.    The  dusty  mass  is  then  packed  and  conveyed 

N  193 


A  Tour  through  South  America 

to  the  river  banks,  where  it  is  shipped  to  a  central  market.  A 
more  improved  method  of  roasting  or  drying  the  mate  is  practised, 
however,  in  Paraguay,  where  large  iron  pans  are  used  for  drying, 
and  machinery  is  used  for  reducing  the  leaves,  from  which  the 
central  rib  of  the  leaf  has  been  removed,  to  a  fine  powder.  The 
word  mate,  which  is  generally  used  to  designate  the  tea, 
applies  really  to  the  gourd  in  which  it  is  brewed,  and  is  an  old 
French  word  for  "  calabash."  It  still  is  used  in  that  sense,  although 
very  generally  applied  to  the  tea.  The  consumption  of  mate  or 
yerba*  throughout  South  America  is  very  large,  and  is  on  the 
increase.  It  takes  the  place  of  China  tea,  and  is  supposed  to 
have  many  virtues  which  neither  tea  nor  coffee  possesses.  That 
it  is  sustaining  there  is  every  reason  to  believe  ;  that  it  has  a  less 
injurious  effect  than  tea  or  coffee  on  the  system  does  not  seem 
to  be  demonstrated  ;  but  the  fact  remains  that  the  people  believe 
in  it,  and  have  acquired  a  taste  for  it,  which  is  largely  contributed 
to  by  its  cheapness.  It  is  not  agreeable  to  the  taste  of  a  novice, 
and  when  the  "  mate  "  is  handed  to  the  visitor,  it  is  generally  too 
hot  for  his  unaccustomed  palate.  The  addition  of  a  little  sugar 
helps  to  render  it  more  pleasing  to  some  judgments,  but  the 
gauchos  on  thp  camp  do  entirely  without  this  addition.  After 
a  long  journey  there  is  no  doubt  that  "  mate  "  acts  as  a  wonderful 
restorative,  and  the  Governments  of  mate-producing  States 
are  endeavouring  to  bring  about  its  adoption  in  the  armies  of 
Continental  Europe. 

A  few  days  spent  in  camp  are  full  of  interest,  but  a  prolonged 
residence  is  only  for  those  who  are  either  compelled  by  their 
occupation  or  held  by  their  interests  or  inclinations  to  remain 
upon  the  solemn  prairies.  The  utter  loneliness  would,  without 
the  occupations  that  pertain  to  the  animal  and  agricultural  life, 
turn  the  brain  of  one  whose  life  has  grown  up  amongst  the  life 
of  cities,  amidst  the  society  of  a  variety  of  his  fellows.  It  is  almost 
as  lonely  as  the  great  oceans.  The  dweller  upon  camps  must 
of  necessity  be  a  student  of  the  ever  changing  sky,  of  all  its  moods 
from  sad  to  gay,  stern  to  smiling,  threatening  to  promising,  a 
beauty  ever  various  and  full  of  an  abstract  fascination.  At 
times  clouds  of  brown  dust  swirl  up  in  great  curling  volumes, 

*  Ilex  paraguayensis  is  the  scientific  name  of  the  yerba  shrub  or  tree.  Amongst 
other  varieties  from  which  tea  is  obtained  are  the  /.  curitibensis,  I.  gigantea^ 
I.  ovalifolia,  I.  humboldtuina. 


The  Camp 

to  obscure  and  tone  down  the  brilliant  displays  of  sunset  colour 
upon  the  distant  clouds.  Even  this  phenomenon  has  an  interest, 
and  helps  to  break  the  tiring  sameness  of  the  plains.    The  flights 


A   GAUCHO. 


of  the  innumerable  feathered  tribe  against  the  sky^ — ducks, 
geese,  pigeons,  parrots,  hawks,  plovers,  storks,  flamingoes, 
herons,  scissor  birds,  and   red  birds   an   infinite   variety — help 

195 


A  Tour  throtigh  South  America 

to  divert  the  mind.  It  requires  a  long  residence  on  the  plains 
and  an  unerring  intuition  for  direction  and  locality,  to  acquire  a 
familiarity  with  all  these  forms  of  life.  Landmarks  that  the 
unpractised  eye  would  overlook  become  live,  bold  and  full  of 
meaning  to  a  gaucho  and  his  horse,  who  have  been  acquainted 
with  their  surroundings  from  their  birth. 


THE    LONELY    CAMP 


196 


CHAPTER    XVII 

A  Live  Industry 

THE  rapid  strides  of  progress  made  by  the  Argentine  Re- 
public have  been  accelerated  by  the  increasing  consump- 
tion in  the  United  States  of  the  products  of  her  own  Western 
cattle  lands.  Every  year,  as  the  population  of  the  world  increases, 
the  heavy  demands  made  upon  cattle-producing  countries  bring 
newer  fields  into  use.  From  the  middle  of  the  nineteenth  until 
the  beginning  of  the  present  century,  the  vast  prairies  of  the 
Western  States  produced  more  than  enough  meat  to  supply  their 
own  needs  and  a  large  export  canning  business  rapidly  came  into 
existence,  whilst  even  live  cattle  were  sent  yearly  to  England  (the 
largest  consumer)  and  turned  out  to  fatten  on  her  rich  pastures 
and  meadow  lands.  But  the  enormous  growth  of  the  packing 
business  and  the  increased  home  consumption  in  the  States  has 
put  an  end  to  the  export  of  live  stock  or  even  of  frozen  meat.  This 
changed  situation  was  Argentina's  golden  opportunity,  and  her 
entry  into  the  world's  market  was  well  described  by  General 
Bartolome  Mitre,*  who  towards  the  end  of  the  last  century  wrote 
as  follows  : 

*'  The  natural  pastures  [of  Argentina]  allured  the  inhabitants 
towards  the  pastoral  industry.  Its  vast  littoral  placed  it  in 
contact  with  'the  rest  of  the  world  by  means  of  fluvial  and  maritime 
navigation.  Its  healthy  and  mild  climate  made  life  more  enjoy- 
able and  labour  more  productive.  Thus  it  was  a  country  prepared 
for  live  stock  breeding,  appointed  to  prosper  through  commerce, 
and  predestined  to  be  stocked  by  the  acclimatisation  of  all  the 
breeds  of  the  earth.  So  it  is  seen  that  the  occupation  of  the  soil 
began  to  be  carried  out  by  means  of  the  cattle  brought  overland 

*  Bartolome  Mitre  was  born  in  182 1,  and  was,  after  a  military  career, 
selected  President  in  1862.  In  1865  he  allied  his  country  with  Brazil  in  operations 
against  Paraguay. 

197 


A  Tour  through  South  America 

from  Peru  and  Brazil,  that  the  commercial  activities  of  the 
interior  are  converging  little  by  little  towards  the  River  Plate, 
abundance  and  prosperity  are  diffused  by  this  means,  and  that 
the  first  foreign  operation  of  the  colonists  after  the  foundation  of 
Buenos  Aires  in  1580,  was  the  exportation  of  a  cargo  of  produce  of 
their  own  labour  (hides  and  tallow)  that  led  up  to  the  import 
business  and  induced  immigration." 

The  author  of  these  words  saw  the  sound  basis  upon  which 
future  developments  and  progress  might  be  securely  founded,  for 
the  natural  advantages  of  the  country  were  such  as  to  justify  the 
most  sanguine  hopes,  the  Republic  being  destined  to  become  a 
great,  wealthy,  and  civilised  nation.  The  cattle  which  were 
brought  down  from  Peru  and  Southern  Brazil,  where  they  had 
been  introduced  by  the  early  Spanish  settlers,  prospered  well  upon 
the  great  plains  of  the  South  ;  plains  favoured  with  such  fertile 
soil  and  mild  climatic  conditions,  that  a  rich  supply  of  nourishing 
grasses  is  their  natural  inheritance.  The  early  part  of  the  last 
century  saw  the  growth  of  the  dry-salting  industry  and  the 
beginning  of  a  large  export  trade  in  salted  meats,  hides,  and  tallow, 
and  the  "  Saladeros  "  of  the  Argentine  and  of  the  countries  im- 
mediately contiguous  to  its  northern  border  enjoyed  a  period  of 
rich  prosperity,  supplying  the  markets  of  the  northern  states  with 
large  quantities  of  *'  jerked  "  or  salted  beef.  But  although  they 
still  have  a  standing  in  the  country,  these  Saladeros  are  rapidly 
being  supplanted  by  the  modern  methods  of  meat  preserving 
carried  on  by  the  great  freezing  establishments,  and  in  the 
province  of  Buenos  Ayres  these  freezing  factories  or  "  Frigorificos  " 
consume  so  much  live  stock  that  the  Saladeros  find  difficulty  in 
existing  alongside  of  them. 

The  "  jerked  "  beef  of  the  Saladeros,  unappetising  to  the  senses 
of  both  sight  and  smell,  is  found  in  the  stores  throughout  South 
America,  and  a  large  quantity  finds  its  way  into  the  islands  of  the 
Caribbean  Sea.  The  strong  odour  of  this  meat  proclaims  its 
proximity,  and  its  would-be  purchasers  need  only  follow  their 
noses  in  almost  any  village  to  discover  the  commodity.  The 
method  of  its  preparation  is  both  ancient  and  simple,  the  carcase 
of  the  slaughtered  animal  being  cut  into  pieces,  and  the  bones,  fat, 
and  tendons  removed.  The  pieces  of  meat  are  then  powdered 
with  salt  and  maize  and  placed  in  the  sun  until  they  become 
shrivelled  and  nearly  black  in  colour.  Sometimes  the  meat  is 
198 


A  Live  Indtistry 

subjected  to  a  smoke-curing  treatment  in  addition,  and  in  any 
case  requires  to  be  well  soaked  in  water  before  being  cooked,  and 
even  then  it  is  far  from  tender,  but  soups  made  from  it,  although 
highly  flavoured,  are  said  to  be  very  nutritious. 

This  trade,  however,  is  now  almost  entirely  dependent  on  cattle 
from  the  northern  plains  of  Corrientes,  Missiones,  Uruguay  and 
Paraguay,  and  the  southernmost  states  of  Brazil,  for  the  intro- 
duction of  better  breeds  of  cattle  into  the  Argentine,  which  has 
been  going  on  for  over  fifty  years,  has  made,  it  more  profitable  to 
export  the  higher  grade  beef  to  more  remote  markets  in  a  superior 
form. 

This  became  possible  to  an  almost  unlimited  extent  since  the 
establishment  of  the  "  frigorificos,"  seeing  that  the  better  prices 


A    PRIZE    HEREFORD    BULL. 


brought  about  by  the  increasing  demand  induced  capital  to  be 
employed  in  the  grading  up  of  the  cattle  and  the  improving  of  the 
breeds  until  they  yield  the  greatest  possible  quantities  of  beef  of 
the  highest  quality.  The  "  creoHa  "  or  native  cattle  are  rather  thin 
and  scraggy  animals,  although  they  are  hardy  and  well  fitted  to 
survive  without  care  or  attention,  but  so  great  is  the  tendency  to 
replace  them  by  better  breeds,  that  in  time  they  are  likely  to  dis- 
appear altogether.  The  "  Saladeros  "  confine  their  attention  to  the 
*'  creolia  "  cattle  and  the  establishments  are  generally  primitive 
and  dilapidated,  the  owners  caring  little  about  appearances,  but 
compelled  by  the  Government  inspectors  to  keep  their  premises 
from  becoming  insanitary  or  too  unclean.  In  the  grounds  which 
surround  the  buildings,  rows  of  rough  wooden  fences  are  erected, 
upon  which  the  beef  is  hung  to  dry  in  the  sun,  whilst  the  hides 
are  pegged  out  flat  upon  the  ground  and  dry-salted  for  export. 

199 


A  Tour  through  South  America 

In  every  part  of  the  cattle  area  the  presence  of  these  hides, 
stretched  out  upon  the  ground  or  hanging  over  fences,  proclaims 
the  national  industry,  and  even  at  the  smallest  hut  or  wayside 
shed  one  or  two  hides  are  sure  to  be  in  evidence.  The  banks  of  the 
Parana  and  Uruguay  rivers  are  the  true  home  of  the  "  Saladero," 
for  in  early  times  the  sailing  vessels  that  traded  between  Monte- 
video and  Spain  and  the  West  Indies  took  cargoes  of  the  "  jerked  " 
beef  to  the  Brazihan  ports  and  Cuba,  there  to  be  exchanged  for 
the  commodities  that  furnished  freight  for  the  homeward  voyage. 
Montevideo  became  the  most  important  port  for  these  vessels, 
and  the  ease  with  which  cargoes  could  be  floated  down  the  rivers 
to  the  port  led  to  the  establishment  of  hundreds  of  factories  along 
the  banks  of  the  Uruguay  and  Parana  rivers.  In  the  Southern 
Brazihan  State  of  Rio  Grande,  the  "  Saladeros,"  protected  by  a  high 
tariff,  still  flourish,  but  they  have  not  enough  cattle  to  supply  the 
needs  of  their  own  country,  although  they  slaughter  an  increasing 
number  every  year,  and  at  the  present  time  are  not  far  behind 
Uruguay  in  their  output.  Argentina,  on  the  other  hand,  is  falhng 
off  in  her  output  of  "  jerked  "  beef  owing  to  the  demand  made  by 
her  "  Frigorificos  "  for  grazing  land  upon  which  to  pasture  cattle 
of  a  higher  grade.  In  all,  about  one  and  a  half  million  animals  pass 
through  the  "  Saladeros  "  of  the  three  States  every  year,  this  large 
figure  not  including  the  cattle  consumption  of  the  factories  engaged 
in  the  extract  manufacture  and  canning  business.  This  latter 
is  another  form  of  utiHsing  the  native  cattle  which  are  unsuitable 
for  the  freezing  establishments,  as  well  as  the  improved  breeds 
which  are  constantly  being  introduced,  and  the  industry  has 
attained  a  very  solid  and  w^orld-wide  reputation  through  the 
operations  of  the  Liebig  Extract  of  Meat  Company,  which  was 
the  pioneer  of  the  extract  and  concentrated  meat  trade,  and 
established  the  first  factory  for  this  purpose  in  South  America. 

Their  business  is  so  extensive  that  they  now  slaughter  about 
two  hundred  thousand  head  of  cattle  annually  at  their  factories 
on  the  banks  of  the  River  Uruguay,  where  they  prepare  their 
extracts — Lemco,  Oxo,  Concentrated  Soups,  Preserved  Beef, 
Tongues,  Beef  Meal,  and  Canned  Meat.  No  rivals  come  anywhere 
near  them  in  output,  for  they  utilise  many  times  the  number 
of  animals  disposed  of  by  all  their  competitors  put  together. 

Their  factories  at  Frey  Bentos  and  Colon  are  most  extensive 
and  adequately  equipped,  and  are  models  of  what  such  places 
200 


A  Live  Industry 

should  be,  and  very  different  from  the  native  "  Saladero."  Going 
through  the  various  departments  of  these  two  factories,  the  visitor 
would  not  be  surprised  if  told  that  he  was  in  an  engineering, 
joinery,  or  almost  any  kind  of  industrial  establishment ;  for  all 
branches  of  the  modern  workshop  are  carried  on  in  different 
parts  of  the  premises.  Nearly  everything  required  for  upkeep  and 
packing  is  made  upon  the  spot  in  the  foundries,  machine  shops, 
carpenters'  shops  and  the  marvellous  tin  can  factory  with  its  elabo- 


COLON. 

rate  machinery  that  is  almost  human.  Here  tins  of  various  sizes  are 
cut  out,  shaped  and  soldered  for  the  packing  of  preserved  meats, 
tongues,  etc.,  whilst  in  another  department  the  machinery  for 
filling  and  hermetically  seahng  these  tins  is  equally  ingenious  and 
interesting.  Large  coopers'  shops  turn  out  hundreds  of  barrels  for 
packing  the  by-products,  such  as  hides,  fat,  and  tallow.  Boilers 
(mechanically  fed),  engines,  pumps,  and  electric  plant  for  light 
and  power,  occupy  their  allotted  places,  and  the  wharves  in  front, 
busy  with  steamers,  sailing  vessels,  and  barges,  give  the  place  the 
appearance  of  a  town  of  no  mean  importance. 

20 1 


A  Tour  through  South  America 

The  appointments  of  the  slaughtering  and  flaying  beds  offer  a 
marked  contrast  to  the  old-fashioned  methods,  and  the  equip- 
ment of  the  factory  for  boiling  and  evaporation  is  the  outcome 
of  experience  and  the  highest  engineering  skill  in  its  thousand  and 
one  details,  so  complicated  as  to  be  bewildering  to  the  mere  layman. 

During  the  six  months  of  the  year  when  the  cattle  are  coming  in, 
the  factories  are  in  full  swing,  and  the  animals  pour  into  the  corrals 
by  the  thousand,  to  be  driven  through  the  "drives"  or  "races" 
into  the  small  corral,  where  each  one  in  turn  is  lassoed.  The 
rope  is  then  given  a  turn  round  the  drum  of  a  small  electric  motor, 
and  the  animal  drawn  firmly  into  a  small  box,  the  floor  of  which 
is  a  movable  truck.  The  fatal  stab  is  given  just  behind  the  hard 
ridge  where  the  horns  grow  from  the  head,  the  executioner 
despatching  the  animals  at  the  rate  of  two  per  minute.  The  blow 
is  sudden,  swift  and  sure,  for  the  men  who  perform  this  task  are 
skilful  and  their  services  well  paid.  It  is  no  uncommon  thing  for 
one  of  them  to  earn  as  much  as  £200  during  the  six  months  of  the 
year  that  the  killing  goes  on,  and  still  less  uncommon  for  him  to 
spend  it  all  in  the  six  off  months,  returning  the  following  season 
practically  penniless. 

The  animal  having  been  despatched,  the  carcase  is  flayed  upon 
the  cemented  beds  which  slope  slightly  to  the  channel  which  con- 
ducts the  blood  to  a  central  tank.  The  meat  is  then  cut  up  and  the 
bones  removed,  the  flesh  being  hung  in  a  large,  dark,  funereal 
chamber,  the  walls  of  which  are  painted  black.  This,  I  was  told, 
was  to  keep  the  flies  away,  for  flies,  it  seems,  detest  darkness, 
although  their  deeds  are  evil. 

Every  part  of  the  animal  is  used  ;  nothing  is  wasted.  The 
flesh  being  cared  for,  the  fat  goes  one  way,  the  hides  another  ;  the 
offals  a  third  and  the  blood  a  fourth.  Some  of  the  bones  are  boiled 
with  the  meat  to  make  a  particular  kind  of  extract ;  whilst  portions 
of  the  meat  are  boiled  alone  for  tinning,  other  portions  are  cut  up 
fine  by  machinery,  and  made  into  extract.  The  bones  are  carefully 
sorted  and  exported  for  the  making  of  combs  and  knife  handles. 
The  horns  are  sold  to  manufacturers  in  Europe,  who  split  them  up, 
and  by  processes  of  their  own  turn  them  into  such  articles  as 
combs,  brush  handles,  boxes,  etc.,  so  closely  imitating  tortoise- 
shell  that  an  innocent  and  indiscriminating  public  mistakes  them 
for  the  genuine  article.  Such  parts  of  the  animals  as  are  good 
for  nothing  else  are  made  into  manure. 
202 


A  Live  Industry 

It  need  hardly  be  said  that  the  Liebig  Company's  organisation 
has  by  no  means  overlooked  the  needs  of  the  large  number  of 
work-people  engaged  at  their  factories,  and  the  settlements  both 
at  Colon  and  Frey  Bentos  provide  accommodation  far  superior 
to  any  to  be  found  in  any  of  the  villages  in  the  country-side.  The 
houses  and  plots  of  ground  allotted  to  the  workers  at  Frey  Bentos 
form  quite  a  rural  settlement,  whilst  Colon,  a  more  recent  and 
very  inviting  colony,  is  a  town  built  upon  approved  modern  lines. 
The  houses,  which  are  all  kept  painted  white,  are  built  in  squares, 
their  backs  looking  on  to  a  large  courtyard.  This  keeps  all  the 
fronts  free  from  the  unsightly  domestic  pots  and  pans  9.nd  other 
paraphernalia  usually  to  be  seen  crowding  the  fronts  of  village 
houses  and  shacks.  Stores,  schools,  and  a  doctor's  shop  are 
provided,  and  each  household  has  its  own  plot  of  ground  for  the 
growing  of  vegetables  and  flowers,  and  is  also  provided  with 
the  very  necessary  baths  which  the  architects  and  builders  of  the 
peons'  houses  (generally  the  owners  themselves)  invariably 
forget. 

Large  recreation  rooms  and  club  houses  are  provided,  and  the 
company  give  an  annual  feast  to  their  workers,  a  feast  unlimited 
as  to  beef  and  wine,  and  followed  by  dancing  and  singing  to  the 
accompaniment  of  an  instrumental  band  also  provided  by  the 
employers.  There  is  also  available  land  for  those  of  the  workers 
who  care  to  go  in  for  cattle-raising  and  farming  on  their  own 
account ;  indeed,  everything  is  done  to  induce  and  encourage 
them  in  such  effort,  and  there  is  an  attractiveness  about  these 
colonies  which  keeps  them  well  populated.  A  more  varied  and 
pleasing  life  is  held  out  here  than  that  offered  by  a  residence  on  the 
great  distant  melancholy  camps,  where  social  intercourse  is 
necessarily  restricted,  and  where  the  monotony  of  existence  is  only 
broken  by  the  arrival  of  some  chance  visitor  from  a  neighbouring 
camp  or  an  occasional  excursion  to  one  of  the  "pulperias"  for  a  glass 
of  "  boliche  "  and  a  gossip  with  similarly  situated  companions. 

In  addition  to  being  big  consumers  of  cattle,  the  Liebig  Company 
are  themselves  Jand-holders  and  stock-raisers  on  a  large  scale,  their 
farms  or  estancias  in  Uruguay,  Corrientes,  and  Missiones  being 
typical  of  each  of  the  states,  although  all  managed  from  head- 
quarters at  the  two  factories.  In  the  RepubUc  of  Uruguay  they 
own  six  estancias  and  rent  two,  comprising  in  all  252,871  acres, 
whilst  in  the  Argentine  province  of  Corrientes  they  control  329,941 

203 


A  Tour  through  South  America 

acres,  and  in  Paraguay  118,584  acres,  making  a  total  of  about 
700,000  acres,  upon  which  close  upon  200,000  head  of  cattle  are 
maintained. 

No  less  than  from  three  to  six  hundred,  tons  of  extract  of  beef 
are  annually  exported  from  their  factories,  in  addition  to  the 
tongues,  soups,  and  preserved  meats  for  which  they  are  noted. 


THE   VILLAGE   OF   FREY   BENTOS. 

If  one  takes  in  the  whole  of  the  River  Plate  littoral,  the  drysalting 
and  meat  extract  business  consumes  about  half  a  million  animals 
yearly,  a  figure  which  is  destined  to  grow  larger  year  by  year. 
This  consumption  of  cattle  is  quite  apart  from  that  of  the  freezing 
trade,  which  is  on  a  still  larger  scale,  and  in  which  a  capital  of 
nearly  four  million  pounds  sterling  is  invested,  much  of  the  money 
coming  from  Britain  and  the  United  States. 

The  first  shipments  of  frozen  meat  from  the  Argentine  were 
made  in  1877,  and  so  successful  was  the  experiment,  that  within 
204 


A  Live  Industry 

eight  years  the  first  large  freezing  estabhshment  was  erected  in 
Buenos  Ayres.  Others  foUowed  in  rapid  succession,  and  the 
combined  turnover  of  the  "  Frigorificos,"  as  they  are  called,  has 
reached  the  enormous  sum  of  twelve  million  pounds  sterling  per 
annum. 

These  "  Frigorificos "  having  been  for  the  most  part  built 
during  recent  years,  their  builders  have  been  able  to  take  advan- 
tage of  all  the  experiments  and  improvements  made  by  hygienic 
science,  and  no  pains  are  spared  to  keep  the  reputation  of  Argentine 
meat  above  suspicion.  The  stock  slaughtered  for  foreign  markets 
undergoes  a  careful  examination  by  veterinary  inspectors,  the 
animals  being  subjected  to  a  severe  scrutiny  before  they  are 
permitted  to  leave  the  paddocks  and  pens  adjoining  the  factories, 
and  allowed  to  pass  along  the  "  race  "  to  the  slaughterhouse.  In  not 
a  few  of  the  factories  the  "  race  "  has  a  long,  deep  trough  of  water 
in  it,  through  which  the  animals  pass  to  cool  and  cleanse  their 
bodies  before  they  reach  the  narrow  box  in  which  they  receive  the 
coup  de  grace.  Directly  this  has  been  given,  the  truck-like  floor 
of  the  box  is  wheeled  quickly  out,  and  placed  in  a  favourable 
position  to  allow  of  the  carcase  being  hoisted  by  the  hind  legs  to 
a  transport  rail.  The  bleeding  takes  place  over  a  channel  which 
conducts  the  blood  into  a  large  underground  tank,  and  the  carcase 
is  then  placed  upon  the  flaying  beds  alongside.  Very  rapidly  the 
hide  is  removed  by  highly  skilled  and  well-paid  operators,  who 
are  fined  for  every  flaw  made  by  them  in  the  skins  they  remove. 
The  carcase  is  next  opened  up  in  the  presence  of  the  Government 
inspector,  who  pronounces  his  verdict  as  to  the  soundness  or 
otherwise  of  the  animal.  Having  been  thoroughly  cleaned,  the 
meat  is  saw^n  in  halves  and  each  side  hauled  up  on  to  a  transport 
rail  and  run  along  to  another  shed  where  the  trimming  is  copi- 
pleted  before  it  enters  the  chilling  or  freezing  chamber,  as  the  case 
may  be.  For  twenty- four  hours  the  meat  is  subjected  to  the 
freezing  process,  and  then  each  side  is  quartered,  covered  first 
with  a  cotton  wrapper  and  then  with  a  stouter  one  of  jute,  and  the 
quarters,  thus  protected  from  dust  and  dirt,  are  shipped  into  the 
cold  chambers  of  barges  which  deliver  them  to  the  specially  fitted 
steamers  bound  for  Europe. 

As  the  killing  goes  on  day  after  day,  a  seemingly  endless  pro- 
cession of  "  sides"  is  hurried  along  the  transport  rails  to  the 
great  freezing  chambers,  which  are  filled  and  emptied  day  in  and 

205 


A  Tour  through  South  A7nerica 

day  out  all  the  year  round.  The  only  disagreeable  parts  of  the 
whole  operation  are  the  killing  pens*  and  the  flaying  beds,  and  the 
visitor  to  the  Frigorifico,  if  at  all  squeamish,  will  do  well  to  give 
these  a  very  casual  inspection  as  he  makes  his  tour. 

The  hides,  wet-salted  and  packed  in  barrels,  are  shipped  to  the 
tanneries  in  England,  the  United  States,  and  Germany  ;  but 
London  is  the  principal  market  for  the  frozen  meat  of  the  Argen- 
tine, its  consumption  of  home-killed  and  foreign  frozen  meat 
exceeding  one  and  a  half  milHon  tons  annually. 

The  Argentine  has  attained  her  present  enviable  position  at  the 
head  of  the  list  of  beef  exporting  countries  by  giving  an  intelligent 
attention  to  the  improvement  of  her  herds  of  cattle.  As  far  back 
as  1848  the  importation  of  the  best  stock  from  England  was 
commenced,  and  since  then  hundreds  of  prize  animals  from  the 
British  shows  have  been  shipped  to  the  grazing  lands  of  the 
republic.  In  1857  ^^e  first  live-stock  show  was  held  in  Buenos 
Ayres,  and  in  1875  the  Rural  Society  of  the  Argentine  held  the 
first  of  the  series  which  has  continued  annually  since  that  date. 
The  Rural  Society  has  done  much  to  justify  its  existence,  organis- 
ing, holding  together  and  encouraging  the  stock-raising  interest. 
Every  well-known  class  of  stock  is  exhibited  at  its  shows,  sheep 
of  the  Lincoln,  Rambouillet,  Blacknose,  and  other  varieties,  and 
cattle  of  the  Shorthorn,  Durham,  Hereford,  and  Polled  Angus 
breeds.  The  keen  competition  amongst  exhibitors  has  led  to  a  high 
standard  of  exhibits,  of  which  there  is  always  an  abundant  entry. 
This  is  equally  true  with  regard  to  the  horses  which  are  now  bred 
in  the  Argentine,  the  breeders  being  justly  proud  of  the  fine 
animals  they  can  produce.  The  same  care  has  been  exercised  in  the 
choice  of  sires  and  mares  which  have  been  purchased  in  England 
and  on  the  continent  of  Europe,  with  the  object  of  obtaining  the 
best  breed  possible.  The  thoroughbred  race-horse  is  particularly 
popular,  and  many  famous  race  winners  have  been  purchased  by 
the  Argentine  dealers,  sportsmen,  and  breeders.  "  Diamond 
Jubilee  "  was  purchased  from  the  late  King  Edward  for  30,000 
guineas,  "  Val  d'Or  "  from  the  French  breeder,  Edmond  Blanc, 
for  £12,000.  It  has  been  estimated  that  400  thoroughbred 
stalhons  and  3000  brood  mares  are  in  service  in  Argentina,  pro- 
ducing about  1500  foals  annually.  In  the  last  fifteen  years  the 
sales  of  young  stock  have  increased  from  90  animals  in  1895, 
reahsing  on  the  average  £126  apiece,  to  483  animals  in  1910, 
206 


A  Live  Industry 

yielding  an  average  price  of  £639.  This  gives  some  idea  of  the 
importance  and  growth  of  the  industry  of  horse-breeding  in  the 
repubhc,  and  a  glance  at  the  list  of  well-known  horses  which  have 
been  produced,  several  of  them  winners  of  tens  of  thousands  of 
pounds  in  prize  money,  indicates  the  excellence  of  the  results 
attained  and  the  profitableness  of  the  occupation. 


207 


CHAPTER    XVIII 

Oft  the  Road  to  Pai^aguay 

PARx\GUAY  is  most  easily  reached  by  river.  The  long 
overland  journeys  from  either  Brazil  or  Bolivia  are  both 
of  a  nature  to  deter  tourists,  and  the  voyage  up  either  the  Uruguay 
or  the  Parana  rivers  is  preferable  to  the  long  dusty  train  journey 
from  Buenos  Ayres  to  Corrientes.  The  steamship  service  of  the 
Mihanovich  line  which  phes  upon  the  River  Plate,  as  well  as  along 
the  Argentine  coast,  is  one  of  the  best  in  South  America.  The 
vessels  are  large  and  adequately  fitted  for  the  tropical  regions 


ON     IHE    I'ARANA. 


through  which  they  pass.  Leaving  Buenos  Ayres  in  the  early 
morning,  the  River  Uruguay  is  reached  in  about  four  hours. 
Great  masses  of  green  foliage  float  down  the  swiftly  running 
stream,  and  low-lying  islands  clad  with  rich  vegetation  are  passed. 
Strings  of  cattle  boats  or  barges  laden  with  their  living  freight 
and  towed  by  strong  steam  tugs  appear  upon  the  scene,  whilst 
the  white  sails  of  craft  of  all  sizes,  and  many  shapes,  flutter  over 
the  broad,  smooth  waters.  The  river,  which  is  both  wide  and 
deep,  is  the  highway  to  a  great  many  of  the  most  prosperous 
208 


On  the  Road  to  Paraguay 

districts  in  the  republics  of  Uruguay  and  Argentina.  The  towns 
upon  either  side  of  the  river  are  small,  and  removed  fram  one 
another  by  great  distances.  Small  villages  and  insignificant 
collections  of  huts  peep  out  from  the  luxuriant  foliage,  and  glimpses 
of  the  life  of  the  inhabitants  are  caught  from  time  to  time.  Agri- 
cultural pursuits  occupy  the  attention  of  the  people,  the  raising 
and  tending  of  cattle  and  live  stock  being  by  far  the  most  im- 
portant industry.     Frey  Bentos  and  Colon  are  both  well-known 


ports  upon  this  river,  at  which  the  steamer  comes  to  anchor. 
At  the  numerous  stopping  places  small  tenders,  row  boats,  and 
canoes  come  alongside,  and  put  on  or  take  off  passengers  and 
their  baggage,  small  freight,  and  mails,  very  little  time  being 
occupied  by  the  operations.  Paysandu,  famous  for  its  ox  tongues, 
is  a  small  town  opposite  to  Colon,  and  a  railway  connects  it 
to  the  central  Uruguay  system,  thus  bringing  it  into  direct  com- 
munication with  Montevideo.  Colon  is  entirely  occupied  by  the 
factories  of  the  celebrated  Liebig's  Extract  of  Meat  Co.,  and  the 
O  209 


A  Tour  through  South  America 


^i> 


small  villages  that  have  sprung  up  around  it  amidst  pastoral 
surroundings  are  inhabited  by  the  factory  workers.  Concordia 
and  Salto  are  the  end  of  the  journey  as  far  as  the  Uruguay  River 
is  concerned,  the  further  passage  being  closed  to  navigation 
by  falls  and  rapids.  These  two  towns  are  typical  specimens 
of  Spanish  colonial  settlements,  and  present  very  much  the 
same  appearance  to-day  as  they  did  a  century  ago.  Sleepy 
would  describe  them  at  ordinary  times,  but  at  midday  the  pas- 
senger landing  from  the  steamer  finds  them  veritable  cities  of 
the  dead,  for  the  streets  are  deserted,  and  even  hotel-keepers 
are  difficult  to  awaken.  Concordia  has  wide  streets  but  low 
houses,  with  roofs  either  flat  or  sloping  away  from  the  front 
to  the  back,  so  that  a  straight,  unbroken  sky-hne  is  presented 
to  the  eye.  The  Plaza  or  principal  square  of  the  town  possesses 
a  church  with  two  tow^ers,  which,  although  of  comparatively 
recent  date,  has,  owing  to  the  unfinished  brickwork,  the  aspect 
of  an  ancient  building.  The  towers,  covered  with  small  green 
slates,  are  typical  of  the  church  architecture  that  prevails  over 
nearly  the  whole  of  South  America.  Inside,  the  church  has  a 
plain  barrel  roof  supported  by  engaged  fluted  columns  of  the 
Corinthian  order,  the  floor  is  tiled,  and  highly  coloured  statues 
and  images  adorn  the  walls  ;  much  of  the  great  altar  is  painted 
to  imitate  marble,  and  a  profusion  of  gilding  testifies  to  the 
native  love  of  the  gaudy.  Seen  at  night  its  effect  is  rich  enough, 
when  the  garishness  of  the  decorations  is  softened  by  the  mellow 
candlelight.  During  the  services  in  honour  of  the  Virgin  crowds 
of  women  and  girls  are  seated  in  the  front  seats  of  the  nave, 
and  notices  are  placed  upon  the  pillars  and  in  other  conspicuous 
places,  intimating  that  men  and  boys  are  forbidden  to  trespass 
on  the  part  reserved  for  the  w^omen,  while,  to  enforce  a  due 
observance  of  the  order,  pohcemen,  in  white  helmets  and  brown 
holland  clothes,  are  in  attendance,  and  the  crowds  of  amorous 
youths  are  restrained  with  some  little  difficulty  from  gaining  a 
point  of  vantage  from  which  tb  observe  the  fair.  Processions 
of  little  girls  clad  in  white  pass  through  the  building  singing 
"Ave  Marias  "  ;  a  black-robed  priest  beating  time  and  marshalhng 
the  regiment.  Bouquets  of  flowers  are  thrown  upon  the  altar 
steps  by  the  children  as  they  pass— a  pretty  ceremony  enthusi- 
astically observed.  The  service  over,  the  congregation  slowly 
disperse  into  the  Plaza,  and  the  straw-hatted  beaux  form  up  in 

210 


A    PARAGUAYAN    I^ADY. 


A  Tour  through  South  America 

line  to  gaze  upon  the  fair  beauties  of  the  community.  Ladies, 
young  and  middle-aged,  attended  by  their  duennas,  Unger 
under  the  lights  of  the  lamps,  conscious  of  and  not  ill  pleased 
with  the  attentions  of  the  human  moths  fluttering  around  them. 
There  is  no  doubt  that  the  ladies  of  the  country  towns  and  cities 
of  Argentina  enjoy  a  greater  freedom  than  do  their  sisters  in 
Buenos  Ayres.  In  Concordia  they  play  tennis  and  other  out- 
door games,  and  there  is  a  growing  disposition  on  the  part  of 
the  "  society  "  sehoritas  to  become  acquainted  with  the  Enghsh 
tongue. 

The  buildings  in  the  Plaza  are  more  modern  in  style  than  the 
cathedral  or  church,  and  have  ornamental  fronts  generally  painted 
white.  Green  "  pariso  "  trees  shade  the  square,  and  in  the  centre 
stands  the  equestrian  statue  of  San  Martin.  Replicas  of  this 
statue  are  placed  in  every  town  of  any  importance  in  the  Argentine, 
the  only  variations  being  the  pedestals,  which  have  local  peculiari- 
ties of  design,  workmanship,  and  material.  The  statue  is  rather 
a  poor  affair,  stiff  and  conventional  in  pose  and  action,  but  it 
serves  its  turn  to  commemorate  the  great  general  and  hero  of 
the  republic.  The  inscription  on  the  front  records  the  names  of 
the  famous  battles  of 

SAN  LORENZO  .  .  .  MAIPU  .  .  .  CHACABUCO 

and  a  dedication  to  the  army  of  the  Andes,  who  gloried  in  that 
they  could  say,  "  In  twenty- four  hours  we  have  made  the  cam- 
paign, crossing  the  highest  Cordilleras  in  the  world,  disposing  of 
tyrants  and  liberating  Chih."  The  whole  square,  which  is  typical 
of  many  others  in  Argentina,  is  made  up  or  bounded  by  houses 
for  the  most  part  of  one  story,  with  blinds  to  keep  the  fierce  rays 
of  the  sun  from  penetrating  windows  and  doors.  A  few  cabs  covered 
with  cracked  leather  hoods  and  harnessed  to  scraggy  horses  are 
lined  up  round  the  pavements  of  the  square.  A  bandstand  railed 
in  with  a  stucco  imitation  of  rustic  woodwork  has  its  appropriate 
place  in  the  general  make-up  of  the  Plaza.  During  the  months 
from  November  to  March  inclusive  the  siesta  hours  are  from 
half-past  eleven  till  two,  and  during  these  hours  the  city  sleeps. 
Banks,  business  houses,  shops,  and  factories  all  obey  the  call. 
The  shade  temperature  during  the  summer  months  is  high, 
and  although  114°  is  rarely  registered,  100°  to  104°  are  very 
common.  In  the  winter  from  March  to  October  the  business 
212 


On  the  Road  to  Paraguay 

hours  are  longer,  and  midday  rest  is  limited  to  one  hour  and  a 
half,  from  twelve  to  one-thirty. 

Concordia  is  an  important  centre  for  wool  and  cattle.  Sheep 
do  well  in  the  province  of  Entre  Rios,  in  spite  of  the  heat,  and  the 
cattle,  although  not  perhaps  so  pleasing  to  the  eye  as  the  improved 
breeds  that  flourish  farther  south,  are  hardy  and  useful  animals. 
Grapes  are  cultivated  and  extensive  vineyards  surround  the  town. 
The  wines  made  in  the  bodegas  of  Entre  Rios  and  Mendoza  are 
sent  down  to  Buenos  Ayres,  where  ingenious  dealers  and  merchants 
are  expert  in  the  art  of  blending  them  with  the  imported  brands 
from  Europe,  so  that  they  can  pass  them  on  to  the  pubHc  as  the 
real  "  Simon  Pure."  The  roads  round  the  town  are  badly  made, 
so  sandy  and  yielding  that  driving  is  hard  work  for  the  horses. 
The  lanes  through  the  vineyards  are  very  pleasant,  shaded  by 
the  "  pariso  "  and  Ume  trees,  and  perfumed  by  the  scent  of  oranges 
and  lemons.  The  ground  is  gently  undulating,  in  marked  contrast 
to  the  low,  flat  plains  farther  south  and  north,  and  from  many 
vantage  points  extensive  views  are  obtained  of  the  surrounding 
country.  The  town  of  Salto,  on  the  other  side  of  the  river,  in 
the  Republic  of  Uruguay,  lies  white  like  a  Moorish  city,  the 
shipping  at  the  wharves  by  the  river  side  lending  animation 
to  the  scene.  In  the  suburbs  of  these  tow-ns  are  many  shacks 
and  huts  built  of  mud  or  old  tin  cans,  a  common  method  all 
through  the  country.  The  dwelling-houses  in  the  town  are  of 
the  common  Spanish  type,  and  one  gets  accustomed  to  the  pleasant 
little  pictures  of  family  life  seen  through  open  doorways.  The 
patio  is  the  living-room  of  these  houses,  and  the  flowers,  vines, 
and  creepers  make  cheerful  wall  decorations.  The  rooms  leading 
off  are  dingy  and  ill-ventilated,  for  the  shuttered  windows  are 
often  kept  closed  for  days.  They  are  cool  and  free  from  the  plague 
of  flies,  but,  unless  for  sleeping  in,  they  are  depressing  and  gloomy. 
During  the  hot  evenings  the  inhabitants  take  their  chairs  and 
stools  out  into  the  streets,  and  little  groups  of  relatives  and  friends 
block  the  narrow  pavements.  All  the  windows  to  the  houses 
are  barred  either  with  iron  or  wooden  rails,  giving  a  gloomy 
expression  to  the  house  fronts. 

Although  a  small  tramw^ay  draw  n  by  horses  has  lately  been 
installed  in  the  town,  the  automobile  has  hardly  got  farther 
than  the  showrooms.  The  drivers  of  these  cars  have  little  horns 
or  trumpets,  upon  which  they  perform  with  gusto,  very  much 

213 


A  Toitr  through  South  Anierica 


•^<b 


in  the  same  way  as  do  the  pedlars  in  Rio  upon  their  primitive 
instruments.  Horses  are  ridden  by  all  classes,  for  horseflesh  is 
cheap,  and  during  the  making  of  a  call,  or  shopping,  the  animals 
are  hobbled  by  the  fore  legs  and  left  in  the  streets,  sometimes  for 
hours  together.  There  is  no  theatre  in  the  town,  but  a  travelling 
circus  sometimes  puts  in  an  appearance,  and  receives  the  active 
patronage  of  the  rank  and  fashion,  as  well  as  of  the  masses. 
Some  of  these  shows  are  well  equipped,  carrying  with  them  their 
own  electric  light  plant,  and,  in  case  this  should  break  down  or 
give  out  during  a  performance,  an  extra  plant  for  the  illuminating 
of  the  tent  by  acetylene  gas  is  in  readiness.  The  performance  is  of 
the  well-known  circus  type — elephants  and  trained  horses,  clowns 
and  acrobats  occupy  the  ring  in  turns,  and  cinema  pictures 
wind  up  the  evening's  performance.  For  a  provincial  town  in 
South  America,  Concordia  has  many  things  to  recommend  it — 
a  club  with  fine  premises,  a  show  ground  for  the  annual  cattle 
display,  and,  for  those  who  desire  further  diversion,  there  is  the 
cafe  with  its  cinema,  where,  to  the  accompaniment  of  music, 
wine,  and  tobacco  smoke,  the  evenings  may  be  passed.  From 
Concordia  the  steamer  returns  to  Buenos  Ayres,  as  the  higher 
river  is  unnavigable.  Trains  from  the  town  convey  passengers 
to  Posadas,  on  the  Alto  Parana,  or  to  Corrientes,  on  the  Paraguay 
River.  The  journey  across  country  is  hot,  dusty,  and  uncomfort- 
able, and  after  the  river  travel  very  undesirable.  The  natives  who 
board  the  train  at  the  various  stations  through  the  province  are 
yellow-skinned  Indians,  with  little  or  no  Spanish  blood  in  them. 
They  are  dull  and  sleepy-looking,  with  dirty  habits  and  forbidding 
expressions.  The  landscape  is  flat  and  uninteresting  for  the  greater 
part  of  the  journey,  pools  of  water  and  marshy  swamps  being 
the  principal  breaks  in  the  monotony  of  the  plains,  and  the 
estancias  which  dot  the  surface  at  long  intervals  make  the  only 
landmarks.  Herds  of  cattle,  horses,  sheep,  and  ostriches  graze 
upon  the  plains  ;  a  few  goats  are  also  found  in  certain  districts, 
half-wild  animals  that  start  away  in  \\'ild  stampedes  at  the 
approach  of  trains.  Huts  of  mud  and  thatch  are  grouped  around 
the  camp  stations,  and  a  few  lonely  and  poverty-stricken-looking 
shacks,  the  residences  of  shepherds  and  cowboys,  appear  at  inter- 
vals in  the  dreary  landscape.  Many  of  the  "  peons  "  or  native 
working-classes  bear  striking  resemblances  to  Chinamen,  and 
the  absence  of  the  negro  type  throughout  this  province  is  note- 
214 


SHEPHERDS    AND   COWBOYS,    CORRIENTE! 


A  Tony  through  South  Ainerica 

worthy.  Mounted  police,  with  great  sun  hehuets  and  white  drill 
clothes,  are  in  evidence  at  the  railway  stations,  and,  although 
uniformed  and  bearing  swords  and  revolvers,  they  seldom  wear 
socks  or  boots,  but  content  themselves  with  the  simple  alpagatos 
or  straw  shoes  which  are  common  throughout  the  country.  The 
poncho  is  very  popular  with  most  of  the  inhabitants  of  the  plains, 
a  really  serviceable  and  sensible  form  of  covering. 

At  Mercedes  a  few  sun-bleached  coaches  betray  the  existence 
of  some  important  town  in  the  vicinity,  although  it  is  not  visible 
fiom  the  railwa}^  station.  Trains  laden  with  hot,  uncomfort- 
able cattle  and  sheep  are  drawn  up  in  sidings  to  permit  the  pas- 
senger trains  to  pass.  Carts  drawn  by  oxen  and  horses  lumber 
along  the  dusty  roads.  Much  of  the  country  in  the  north  of 
Corrientes  is  swampy,  and  an  abundance  of  bird  life  clusters 
around  the  margin  of  the  shallow  lakes.  Storks  wade  through 
the  pools,  plover,  snipe,  pigeon,  and  rooks  hover  in  the  air,  and 
palm  trees  grow  here  and  there  in  little  clumps,  giving  a  tropical 
touch  to  a  landscape  which  but  for  them  has  no  special  feature, 
save  that  of  monotony.  When  violent  storms  of  wind,  rain,  and 
lightningvisit  these  camps — and  their  terrific  force  is  indescribable— 
the  whole  horizon  from  east  to  west  is  lit  up  by  flashes  of  blinding 
intensity,  following  one  another  in  such  rapid  succession  that 
they  merge  together  and  form  long  periods  of  illumination, 
varied  at  intervals  by  streaks  of  forked  lightning  which  stab  the 
earth  with  destructive  force.  Deaths  from  lightning  are  not 
uncommon  in  this  quarter  of  the  continent,  the  continual  roll 
of  loud  thunder  is  deafening,  like  the  near  report  of  a  battery  of 
heavy  ordnance — the  rain  descends  in  torrents,  an  awe-inspiring 
deluge,  which  converts  great  tracts  of  the  low-lying  land  into 
shallow  lakes. 

Corrientes,  the  capital  of  the  State,  could  hardly  be  described 
as  a  fine  city  or  to\\n.  It  is  undergoing  some  improvements, 
which  will  render  it  a  little  less  destructive  to  carriage  springs 
and  trying  to  weak  ankles.  The  streets  until  recently  w^ere  frightful, 
one  mass  of  rugged  boulders  that  would  baffle  the  ingenuity  of  the 
sure-footed  mule  to  negotiate.  The  authorities  are  at  work, 
endeavouring  to  make  the  roads  and  streets  passable,  but  during 
the  operations,  which  have  been  started  all  over  the  town  simul- 
taneously, confusion  reigns.  The  town  lies  on  the  western  bank 
of  the  Parana  River,  a  little  below  the  point  where  it  meets  the 
216 


On  the  Road  to  Paraguay 

Paraguay  ;  and  during  the  summer  months  heat,  duUness,  and 
sand  are  its  principal  attractions.  Ahnost  every  other  house 
bears  a  brass  plate  signifying  that  a  lawyer  or  doctor  resides 
within,  surely  an  unpropitious  omen  for  the  peace  and  happiness 
of  the  inhabitants.  Very  few  shops  of  any  importance  enliven 
the  dismal  sohtude  of  the  streets,  and  the  business  houses  and 
warehouses  have  unpretentious  exteriors,  and  even  before  and 
after  the  siesta  hours  from  eleven  to  two  they  are  anything  but 
animated.  There  is  a  considerable  trade  passing  through  the 
port,  however,  which  makes  the  river  front  the  liveliest  portion 
of  the  town.  In  the  Plaza  there  is  the  prescribed  statue  of  San 
Martin,  the  cathedral,  bandstand,  and  ornamental  garden. 
One  ancient  building  takes  up  almost  the  entire  side  of  the  square. 


IGEASU   FALLS   ON    TllL   AL*0    PARANA. 


It  is  weather-stained,  faded,  and  worn,  its  dilapidated  front 
bears  evidence  of  antiquity,  and  tradition  says  that  it  is  con- 
temporaneous with  the  fomidation  of  the  city.  The  general 
decay  which  has  spread  over  most  of  the  neighbouring  buildings 
is  more  apparent  on  this  ancient  residence  of  the  Governor  of 
the  State.  Its  strongly  barred  windows  suggest  a  prison  rather 
than  a  palace,  but  in  days  gone  by  Governors  were  not  the  most 
popular  persons  in  the  Spanish  colonies,  and  they  needed  a  strong 
protection  from  the  disaffected.  The  Government  buildings 
in  the  Plaza  are  in  the  modern  French  Renaissance  style,  their 
high  mansard  roofs  and  delicate  plaster  ornamentations  in- 
congruously placed  amidst  the  heavier  and  less  fanciful  styles  of 
the  early  colonial  architecture.  The  cathedral,  which  is  of  the 
usual  type,  is  lit  by  the  modern  electric  light,  although  the  priests 

217 


A  Tour  through  South  America 

who  administer  to  the  religious  needs,  and  hght  up  the  spiritual 
darkness  of  the  population,  still  array  themselves  in  the  rough 
brown  robes  of  their  order.  At  one  corner  of  the  Plaza  stands 
a  large  house  of  one  story,  with  a  richly  ornamented  front  in  the 
classical  style  ;  through  its  open  door  a  glimpse  is  caught  of  a 
beautiful  patio  filled  with  palms,  vines,  and  plants.  These  patios 
are  the  only  bright  spots  in  the  city,  and  even  the  most  forbidding 
and  dirty-looking  habitations  are  rich  in  the  possession  of  these 
cheery,  verdant  bowers.    Some  of  the  "  posadas  "  or  inns  are 


OLD    HOUSES    IN    CORRIENTES. 


picturesque  enough  to  look  at,  particularly  if  they  are  regarded 
from  the  point  of  view  of  a  lover  of  ruins,  but  as  hostelries  they 
do  not  offer  much  attraction,  for  their  tottering  walls  threaten 
to  engulf  the  inmates,  particularly  when  a  good  storm  is  raging. 
Under  the  verandahs  groups  of  women  sit  gossiping  and  smoking 
big  cigars,  which  they  puff  with  real  enjoyment.  A  strange 
medley  of  animals  lies  around — dogs,  cats,  monkeys,  pigs,  and  the 
curious  carpincha,  whilst  through  the  turned  wooden  bars  that 
screen  the  windows  handsome  young  faces  framed  with  brightly 
covered  scarves  peep  out  at  the  few  passers-by. 

When  leaving  Corrientes  by  the  steamer  it  is  wise  to  engage 
the  services  of  one  of  the  peons  who  are  attached  to  the  landing- 
218 


On  the  Road  to  Paraguay 

stage.  These  watermen,  who  are  ahvays  to  be  found  upon  the 
wharf,  keep  their  attention  riveted  upon  the  river,  and  as  the 
hour  at  which  the  steamers  arrive  is  rather  uncertain,  the  ad- 
vantages of  having  a  watchman  who  will  give  timely  warning 
to  intending  voyagers  is  apparent.  At  any  hour  of  the  twenty- 
four  the  vessel  may  arrive,  and  as  it  remains  only  a  few  minutes 
alongside  the  quay,  it  is  well  for  passengers  to  be  at  hand. 

The  journey  up  the  river  from  Corrientes  to  Asuncion   has 
plenty  of  incident  to  enhven  it,  particularly  when  one  of  the 


f' 


I 


^^Sm 


POSADA,       CORRIEME 


periodical  revolutions  of  the  little  republic  of  Paraguay  is  in 
progress,  for  then  the  uncertainty  of  finding  villages  still  inhabited, 
the  prospect  of  encountering  tramp  steamers  converted  into 
"  battleships,"  and  small  troops  of  armed  men  parading  the 
river  banks  only  adds  to  the  fascination  the  romantic  country 
already  possesses.  Ascending  and  descending  the  river  one  meets 
with  travellers  of  many  nationalities,  army  officers  from  the 
republics  of  Brazil,  Argentina,  and  Uruguay,  merchants  and 
traders,  commercial  travellers,  tourists,  and  sportsmen.  The 
increasing  numbers  who  journey  up  these  rivers  testify  to  the 
growing  interest  that  the  vast  territories  in  the  heart  of  South 

219 


A  Tour  through  South  America 

America  have  created,  for  the  Parana  is  the  only  practical  high- 
way to  the  State  of  Matto  Grosso,  the  high  central  tableland 
of  the  continent.  Corumba  is  the  busy  little  shipping  port  for 
a  vast  territory  with  which  it  does  a  thriving  trade,  and  from  it 
travellers  to  the  State  capital  of  Cuyaba  embark  upon  the  smaller 
steamers  which  navigate  the  Sao  Lourenco.  This  branch  of  the 
Paraguay  is  perhaps  one  of  the  most  characteristically  tropical 
in  South  America,  the  vegetation  on  its  banks  growing  with  a 
profuse  abundance.  The  State  of  Matto  Grosso  is  an  almost 
unexplored  territory,  and  although  containing  a  wealth  of  minerals, 
hardwoods,  and  rubber,  only  a  fraction  has  been  gathered  and 
exported.  When  the  half -million  square  miles  that  constitute  the 
area  of  this  State  are  contrasted  with  the  total  exports,  to  the  value 
of  about  the  same  number  of  pounds  sterling,  the  possibilities  of 
enormous  developments  are  apparent.  The  name  of  the  State, 
"  Matto  Grosso  "  (dense  forest),  gives  some  indication  of  the 
character  of  the  country,  and  it  is  not  surprising  that  rubber  should 
be  one  of  its  most  important  products.  Gold  is  found  in  many  of 
the  rivers  and  hills,  and  alluvial  workings  have  been  carried  on 
ever  since  the  Jesuits,  three  hundred  years  ago,  discovered  them 
to  be  profitable.  After  heavy  showers  of  rain  it  is  said  that  gold 
is  washed  down  the  streets  of  the  capital.  Diamonds,  copper, 
silver,  and  lead  have  also  been  found,  and  each  year  sees  more 
enterprises  developing  some  of  the  immeasurable  resources. 
In  the  rainy  season,  when  the  rivers  break  through  and  over- 
flow their  normal  banks,  it  is  possible  for  a  canoe  or  small  boat 
to  voyage  from  the  Amazon  to  the  mouth  of  the  River  Plate, 
and  many  projects  have  been  put  forward  to  permanently  con- 
nect the  two  rivers  by  canals.  The  old  maps  of  the  continent 
show  that  a  waterway  was  known  to  the  earliest  explorers.  Captain 
Sharp's  map,  published  in  the  seventeenth  century,  indicates 
a  great  waterway  connecting  the  Amazon  with  the  River  Plate, 
and  on  it  the  territory  of  Brazil  and  Uruguay  are  shown  as  a 
huge  island  quite  separate  from  the  rest  of  the  continent,  and 
although  the  map  is  rough  and  primitive,  the  fact  that  a  river 
route  between  the  points  mentioned  existed,  is  insisted  upon  with 
a  decision  indicative  of  definite  knowledge.  Railways  are  now  in 
course  of  construction  which  will  connect  Corumba  with  Sao 
Paulo,  and  Cuyaba  with  Goyaz  and  the  federal  capital  of  Brazil, 
and  then  the  journey  from  the  seaports  of  Brazil  to  the  farthest 
220 


iohamalflanciy 


^V 


Barb»«lo' 


Mare 


}^-jr-         s/^ir^if         Brazil 


The  Ti-opick  of  Cancer 


I"- - 


„W">Hirpamok 


A  Tour  through  Soufh  A  ju  eric  a 

outposts  of  the  republic  will  be  accomplished  in  about  three  or 
four  clays,  instead  of  twelve  or  more,  as  at  present.  A  fe^^'  travellers, 
either  to  gain  experience  or  from  necessity,  have  made  the 
fatiguing  journey  from  Corumba  to  La  Paz,  in  Bolivia,  and  vice 
versa.  From  all  the  accounts  they  give,  it  is  not  one  which  has 
many  attractions  to  compensate  for  the  many  discomforts  and 
even  hardships  that  are  certain  to  be  encountered.  From  Corumba 
the  traveller  proceeds  on  muleback  across  a  dry^  desolate  plain, 
v/ith  no  shelter  and  little  water  for  eighteen  days,  and  encounters 
only  a  few  Indians,  friendly  enough  inchned,  but  possessed  of 
nothing  to  offer  in  the  way  of  hospitality  to  strangers.  Arrived 
at  Sucre,  a  halt  can  be  made,  and  a  short  rest  taken  before  pro- 
ceeding to  La  Paz  through  Cochabamba  and  Oruro.  The  whole 
journey  on  muleback  occupies  about  forty  days,  and  can  be  recom- 
mended to  robust  and  hardy  persons  who,  tired  of*  luxury  and  the 
easy  comforts  of  civilised  hfe,  are  anxious  for  a  change. 

To  return  to  the  river.  The  heat  during  the  summer  months 
is  intense,  the  thermometer  usually  registering  about  90°  in  the 
shade.  The  river  continues  wide  and  winding  as  it  passes  the 
Grand  Chaco  on  the  one  side  and  the  wooded  plains  on  the  other. 
The  banks  in  places  are  straight  as  an  even  wall,  and  from  the 
steamer  look  like  embankments  of  masonry.  The  continual  wash 
from  the  traffic  that  plies  upon  the  river  has  its  effect,  however, 
shown  by  the  gaps  formed  by  slides  and  erosions.  Endless 
swamps  stretch  for  miles  during  the  rainy  season,  and  the  many 
trees  are  only  saved  from  complete  submersion  by  the  twisted 
cables  of  lianas  which  hold  them  firmly  together  Flocks  of  small 
aquatic  birds  amidst  the  network  of  creepers  and  branches  are 
silently  alert,  fishing  for  a  meal.  In  many  places  fantastic  and 
exaggerated  tree  trunks  grow  from  the  water's  edge,  and  grassy 
plains,  barely  rising  above  the  river's  surface,  extend  for  miles. 
Close  by  the  shores  alHgators  bask,  with  their  ugly  snouts  just 
above  the  water,  disappearing  immediately  they  are  disturbed 
by  the  wash  from  the  passing  steamers  or  the  approach  of  small 
boats  and  canoes.  On  both  sides  of  the  river,  cattle,  horses,  and 
ostriches  graze  in  wild  freedom  upon  the  meadowland.  Mud  huts 
appear  at  intervals,  and  natives  in  dirty  white,  ragged  garments 
loll  under  the  shade  of  thatched  verandahs.  Many  of  the  huts, 
constructed  with  the  sides  and  ends  of  old  kerosene  tins  and 
bits  of  packing  cases,  add  a  variety  to  the  architectural  styles 
222 


On  the  Road  io  Paraguay 

of  these  primitive  habitations.  Canoes  with  blunt  prows  and 
rounded  sterns  ply  from  shore  to  shore,  and  surround  the  steamers 
that  come  to  anchor  at  a  "  port."  They  carry  odd  cargoes,  curious 
passengers  and  their  belongings,  bundles  of  many  colours,  old 
iron  bedsteads  and  chairs,  pots  and  pans,  and  household  goods 
and  chattels  ;   domestic  pets,  monkeys,   parrots,   and  dogs,   all 


TRAVELLERS  ON  THE  STEAMER. 


form  part  of  their  mixed  freight.  Trestle  beds  are  the  inseparable 
impedimenta  of  the  German,  Italian,  and  Spanish  labourers, 
who  move  about  from  place  to  place  with  the  characteristic 
restlessness  of  born  travellers.  These  beds  serve  a  double  purpose, 
and  are  used  as  holdalls  for  all  their  owners'  baggage  by  day, 
and  as  their  couches  by  night,  when  the  fore  deck  of  the  steamer 

223 


A  Tour  through  Soutli  Ainei'ica 

is  transformed  into  an  open-air  dormitory.  At  Formosa,  an 
important  though  small  town  on  tlie  Argentine  side  of  the  river, 
a  large  crowd  assembles  to  witness  the  arrival  and  departm'e  of 
the  steamer.  Cabs  and  wagonettes  convey  the  passengers  to  and 
from  the  town,  which  lies  at  a  little  distance  from  the  river  bank, 
and  the  habitual  quietude  of  the  port  is  disturbed  for  a  few  hours 
or  so. 

During  a  voyage  I  made  up  the  river  a  revolution  was  in  pro- 
gress, and  the  town  of  Villetta  w-as  in  the  hands  of  the  insurgents  ; 
an  armed  steamer  lay  off  the  town,  its  decks  swarming  with 
men  in  khaki  uniforms.  There  were  Englishmen  and  other  Euro- 
peans on  board,  members  of  the  great  army  of  soldiers  of  fortune 
who  always  contrive  to  get  mixed  up  with  South  American  revo- 
lutions. On  the  decks  of  the  innocent-looking  tramp  steamer 
which  had  been  re-named  the  Constituccion,  quick-firing  and 
other  small  armaments  glistened  in  the  sunlight,  whilst  a  wireless 
installation  and  searchlights  testified  to  the  resourcefulness  of  the 
insurgents.  All  along  the  Paraguayan  banks  of  the  river  we 
encountered  little  bands  of  the  rebels  and  many  deserted  villages. 
Passengers  w'ere  landed  upon  the  banks  near  the  latter,  and 
surrounded  by  their  belongings  were  left  quite  contented,  if  not 
happy,  with  no  one  to  welcome  or  receive  them.  In  some  of  the 
villages  a  few  women  and  children  were  left  in  charge,  the  men 
and  youths  having  fled  across  the  river  to  the  Argentine.  The 
women  would  come  down  to  the  water's  edge  and  exchange  news 
with  our  passengers  in  half- amused,  half- frightened  tones,  and  many 
of  the  aspects  of  the  revolution  had  an  irresistibly  comic  side  to  them. 
Farther  up  the  river  more  primitive  methods  of  life  and  commerce 
prevail,  and  half-amphibious  dwellings  lie  on  the  borders  of  the 
great  "  esteros  "  or  marsh  lands  that  stretch  away  from  the  river. 
In  the  rainy  season  these  lands  become  vast  lakes,  the  thick, 
stiff,  clayey  soil  forming  an  impervious  bottom.  In  the  dry  season 
the  water  evaporates,  and  leaves  behind  a  grey,  dusty  soil  of 
great  gaping  cracks,  and  a  strong,  wiry  grass  and  stunted  shrubs 
growing  in  many  patches.  The  dreary  malarious  wastes  extend 
far  beyond  the  limits  of  the  river's  bank,  and  on  these  placid, 
stagnant  areas  the  mosquito  finds  a  congenial  breeding  ground. 
On  these  swamps  numerous  aquatic  plants  grow,  and  the  camalote 
and  many  varieties  of  white  and  blue  hlies,  whilst  the  Victoria 
regia  spreads  out  its  broad,  green  leaves  and  snowy  flowers. 
224 


On  the  Road  to  Paraguay 

On  the  higher  lands  farther  to  the  north  the  landscape  becomes 
bolder  and  more  picturesque.  Vast  woods,  dense  and  almost 
impenetrable,  abound,  and  harbour  a  wealth  of  animal  Ufe. 
Beautifully  marked  jaguars,  tiger  cats,  and  ocelots  make  their 
lairs  in  the  dark  recesses  of  these  gloomy  forests,  monkeys  chatter 
amongst  the  trees,  whilst  snakes  and  lizards  gUde  and  dart  through 
the  confused  matted  undergrowth.  The  carpincha,  the  largest 
of  existent  rodents,  w^allows  in  the  muddy  margins  of  the  swamps  ; 
a  droll-looking  animal,  rapid  though  clumsy  in  its  movements, 
possessing  a  ludicrous  truncated  face  that  would  provoke  a  smile 
from  an  anchorite.  The  whole  country  is  a  sportsman's  paradise, 
for  it  harbours  a  plentiful  variety  of  large  and  fierce  quadrupeds, 
and  teems  with  feathered  game.  The  stately  heron  and  gaunt 
stork  haunt  the  river  banks,  as  do  innumerable  water  birds, 
ducks  and  geese  of  many  native  varieties.  Pheasants,  partridge, 
snipe,  and  pigeon  fly  over  land  and  w^ater,  great  flocks  of  parrots, 
with  harsh,  strident  cries,  break  the  silence  of  the  evening  calm. 
At  sunset,  when  the  dying  hues  of  the  sun  incarnadine  the  expansive 
waters,  the  prevaihng  tone  of  greyness  comes  as  a  welcome  relief, 
after  the  blinding  glare  of  the  daytime,  when  from  a  myriad 
diamond  points  the  reflected  Hght  dances  upon  the  rippling 
waters.  The  western  sky  is  diffused  w^ith  a  golden  or  ruddy  glow , 
and  forms  a  mellow^  background  to  the  rich,  mysterious  greens 
of  the  tree-clad  banks!  Cormorants,  kingfishers,  and  storks  sail 
above  the  surface  of  the  water  in  search  of  prey,  and  when  the 
brief  period  of  twilight  ceases  the  starry  swarms  of  the  heavens 
shine  from  the  blue  vault  overhead  wdth  an  amazing  brilliance. 
The  long-drawn  reflections  of  the  night-lights  of  the  sky  in  the 
river  form  streaks  of  opal  light,  w'hich  move  ever  forward  with 
the  ship's  advance  hke  dancing  will-o'-the-wisps,  the  rare  beauty 
of  the  tropical  night  is  deeply  impressive,  and,  in  the  silence,  ideas 
of  space  are  magnified  by  many  reflections,  nature  becomes  more 
mysterious,  the  passing  hour  more  trivial,  and  man  and  all  his 
efforts  shrink  into  insignificance. 


225 


CHAPTER    XIX 

As7incion 

THE  sun  was  just  beginning  to  dispel  the  white  morning 
mists  when  we  came  alongside  the  Aduana  or  custom- 
house of  Asuncion.  Our  fellow-passengers  were  all  anxious  to 
learn  the  latest  developments  of  the  revolution  in  progress, 
and  to  discover  if  it  was  wise  for  them  to  trust  themselves  on 
shore,  for  it  is  proverbial  that  Paraguay  is  like  a  mouse-trap, 
easy  enough  of  entrance,  but  difficult  of  exit.  Alongside  of  the 
wharf  or  quay  of  the  Aduana  lay  a  small  steam  trawler,  which, 
upon  closer  inspection,  proved  to  be  the  Government  battleship, 
its  deck  swarming  with  a  dirty,  ill-clad,  frightened  crew,  who 
were  confused  by  the  conflicting  orders  shouted  at  them  from 
time  to  time  by  youthful  officers,  barely  out  of  their  teens. 

The  restlessness  of  the  crew  of  the  Liherdad  extended  to  the 
small  tender  that  rushed  about  with  noisy,  feverish  haste  on 
various  errands,  and  to  the  small  row-boats  manned  by  crews 
of  mere  boys  whose  faces  were  smacked  and  punched  by  the 
officers  in  charge  whenever  they  missed  a  stroke  or  pulled  out  of 
time. 

Upon  the  wharf  soldiers,  with  bayonets  fixed  to  their  loaded 
rifles,  lounged  and  smoked  in  the  company  of  dark-eyed  market 
women,  who  also  puffed  and  pulled  at  fat  cigars  rolled  between 
their  protruding  lips  with  an  easy  familiarity. 

At  the  bottom  of  the  flight  of  steps  which  led  down  to  the  water's 
edge  a  noisy  crowd  of  boatmen  wrangled  with  their  fares  or 
contended  with  one  another  for  favourable  positions.  One  of 
these  boats  was  occupied  by  an  old  man  whose  face  and  dress 
vividly  recalled  the  well-known  prints  of  the  patriot  Garibaldi, 
and  that  he  was  conscious  of  the  likeness  he  bore  to  the  distin- 
guished Italian  hero  was  obvious,  for,  in  bright  yellow  letters,  the 
226 


Asuncion 

name  "  Garibaldi  "  was  painted  upon  the  green  stern  of  his  tiny 
craft.  Further  inquiry  ehcited  the  fact  that  the  owner  of  the 
hkeness  and  the  boat  was  one  of  the  family  of  Italy's  wandering 
sons. 

Two  battleships  lay  far  out  in  the  river,  one  flying  the  Argentine 
and  the  other  the  Brazihan  flag,  and  the  crews'  weekly  washing. 
Small  launches  kept  coming  and  going  from  and  to  these  fourth- 
rate  river  cruisers,  giving  an  air  of  warhke  activity  to  the  port. 

There  was  no  difliculty  in  going  ashore  ;  and,  although  pas- 


1  B  0  2  9  9  * «-i. 


THE   CUSTOM-HOUSE,    ASUNCION. 

sengers  bound  for  stations  in  the  interior  found  that  the  rail- 
way station  was  closed  and  under  charge  of  an  old  watchman 
and  a  few  old  women  who  were  resting  upon  the  seats  of  the 
deserted  terminus,  they  had  no  difficulty  in  obtaining  rooms 
in  the  ill-kept  and  expensive  hotels  of  the  city. 

There  is  little  life  in  the  rugged  streets  of  Asuncion  at  any 
hour  of  the  day  in  normal  times,  but  during  the  early  mornings, 
when  a  revolution  is  in  progress,  a  few  dogs,  cats,  and  fowls 
have  undisturbed  possession  of  the  thoroughfares. 

The  town  is  well  enough  laid  out,  and  follows  a  regular  plan  ; 

227 


A  Tour  through  South  America 

but  the  low,  one-story  buildings  which  line  many  of  the  streets, 
and  the  absence  of  many  tall  buildings,  prevent  the  city  from 
having  an  imposing  aspect.  The  roads  are  bad,  and  the  high 
pavements,  which  serve  in  most  cases  as  balconies  to  the  houses, 
often  compel  the  pedestrian  to  use  the  rough  roadways,  which, 
however,  are  not  quite  so  bad  as  those  of  Corrientes.  In  wet 
weather  many  of  the  roads  are  converted  into  rivulets,  only 
to  be  negotiated  by  stepping  from  one  to  the  other  of  the  large 
stones  which  lie  like  boulders, across  the  stream.  The  older  houses 
are  all  built  with  **  adobes  "  or  sun-dried  bricks,  having  substantial 
walls  of  more  than  a  yard  in  thickness.  The  roofs  are  covered 
with  double  layers  of  red  tiles  of  the  "  roman  "  pattern,  and 
many  of  the  external  walls  are  panelled  and  framed  in  by  columns 
or  pilasters  in  low  relief,  the  whole  front  being  colour-washed  in 
some  fanciful  shade,  according  to  the  owner's  taste.  Blues, 
yellows,  purples,  greens,  and  buffs  give  a  kaleidoscopic  aspect 
to  the  streets,  additional  variety  being  lent  by  the  heavy,  massive 
doors  and  shutters  of  the  entrances  and  windows,  the  former 
opening  into  vestibules  which  lead  to  the  pillared  and  grassy 
patios  beyond. 

The  kitchens  are  dark  and  sooty  apartments,  full  of  a  heavy 
atmosphere,  and  the  pungent  smell  of  garlic  and  cooking  fat  ; 
but  lofty  rooms  with  heavy  rafters  made  from  palm-tree  trunks 
are  to  be  found  in  many  of  the  houses,  timber  being  so  plentiful 
that  even  the  jerrj^-builders  of  the  country  have  no  temptation 
to  substitute  two-by-three  joists  and  rafters.  The  majority  of 
the  houses  boast  of  broad  piazzas  with  heavy  pillars  and  shady 
upper  galleries,  which  recall  the  styles  of  Morocco  and  Algiers. 

The  newer  buildings  in  the  town,  however,  display  evidence 
that  the  modern  utilitarian  craze  for  cheapness,  with  its  almost 
inevitable  nastiness,  has  spread  to  Paraguay. 

They  are  flimsy  and  cheaply  ornate,  with  thinner  walls  and 
more  hastily  contrived  and  executed  doors  and  windows,  the 
woodwork  of  which  is  a  sad  departure  from  the  ideals  inculcated 
by  the  stern  Francia,  whose  passion  for  thoroughness  in  all 
things  called  forth  the  enthusiastic  praise  of  the  **  philosopher  of 
Chelsea." 

The  Dictator  of  Paraguay  permitted  no  citizen  to  slur  or 
scamp  his  work,  but  demanded  the  best  from  every  man,  exacting 
a  high  standard  of  workmanship,  and  enforcing  the  same  by 
228 


Asuncion 

the  erection  of  that  extraordinary  institution  known  as  the 
*'  workman's  gallows,"  which  promptly  ended  the  career  of 
negligent  and  deceitful  craftsmen.  All  the  windows,  too,  of  the 
older  houses  in  this  strange  city  have  heavier  iron  bars  than 
those  commonly  found  in  Spanish  dwellings,  and  this  also  may 
be  the  result  of  the  stern  Dictator's  decrees. 

For  it  was  under  the  auspices  of  the  "  Grand  Old  Man  "  of 
Paraguay  that  most  of  the  city  was  built.  When  he  took  up 
the  reins  of  government  he  found  Asuncion  in  disorder,  its 
streets  irregular,  and  its  houses  built  without  system  or  plan. 
Tropical  vegetation  ran  riot  in  its  roadways,  which  were  un- 
paved  and  unworthy  of  the  name.  When  the  visitor  to-day 
feels  inclined  to  criticise  adversely  the  streets  and  roads  of  the 
city  as  he  finds  them,  he  should  pause  and  reflect  upon  its  state 
a  hundred  years  ago,  and  bless,  even  if  reluctantly,  the  name 
of  Francia,  who  remodelled  and  paved  the  town,  straightened 
the  crooked  ways,  and  brought  about  some  measure  of  order. 

It  has  been  alleged  by  the  Doctor's  traducers  that  his  real 
purpose  in  bringing  about  so  many  drastic  changes  was  his  own 
convenience  and  safety,  fearing  that  the  dense  thickets  that 
grew  throughout  and  around  the  city  might  harbour  and  conceal 
designing  assassins. 

Of  the  few  buildings  of  any  great  importance,  the  cathedral, 
although  large,  is  dwarfed  by  a  high  colonnade  which  rises  up 
to  the  roof  of  the  deserted  and  ill-kept  edifice,  whose  walls  are 
discoloured  and  faded  by  the  action  of  rain  and  sun. 

One  of  the  few  outstanding  features  of  the  place  is  the  huge 
dome  w^hich  towers  above  all  the  other  buildings,  but  the  visitor 
is  disappointed  when,  on  closer  inspection,  he  discovers  that 
it  is  neither  old  nor  new,  but  merely  a  monument  to  the  childish 
and  unstable  zeal  of  the  tyrant  Lopez,  who,  with  a  feverish 
energy,  undertook  many  ambitious  building  schemes,  w^hich, 
through  lack  of  means  or  waning  enthusiasm,  he  never  com- 
pleted. 

This  dome  is  constructed  of  dull  red  adobe  bricks,  and  is  im- 
posing and  dignified  enough  in  appearance  ;  but  the  interior  is 
now  utihsed  as  a  store,  and  the  inhabitants  who  use  it  seem  to 
have  little  idea  as  to  w^ho  built  it,  or  for  what  it  was  originally 
intended. 

A  few  buildings  in  the  main  street  of  the  city  rise  to  two,  three, 

229 


A  Tour  through  South  Ajiierica 


^^» 


and  even  four  stories.  One  of  these;  the  Spanish-American  Hotel, 
is  an  old  stone  building,  with  a  lofty  piazza  surrounded  by  heavy 
pillars,  whilst  quaint,  lugubrious  staircases  wind  round  this 
patio,  and  lead  to  the  upper  floors,  which  are  all  of  stone.     In 


THE  DOME  OF  THE  ORATOIRE  DE  LOPEZ. 

this  hotel,  travellers  to  the  city  obtain  sohd  food  and  strongly 
fortified  accommodation,  and  must  not  be  surprised  if  they  find 
that  the  charges  are  proportionately  heavy.  The  place  reminded 
me  of  many  of  the  old  hotels  upon  the  Spanish  Main  in  Cuba, 
Mexico,  and  Colombia,  where  the  same  free  and  easy  attendance 
230 


Asuncion 

was  given  to  the  guests,  and  the  same  highly  seasoned  dishes 
were  set  in  front  of  them.  A  travelHng  theatrical  company  hap- 
pened to  be  staying  in  this  hotel  during  my  sojourn,  but  the 
presence  of  the  fashionable  ladies  of  the  footlights  attracted 
but  little  attention  in  the  city,  which  was  in  a  highly  strung 
condition,  owing  to  the  disturbed  state  of  the  country.  Few 
of  the  beaux  of  the  town  dared  venture  out ;  many  of  them 
were  already  either  in  the  ranks  of  the  Government  or  the  in- 
surgents, and  those  who  ^^•ere  not  were  lying  low,  fearful  of 
being  pressed  into  service. 

Only  in  the  market-place  \\ere  the  ordinary  scenes  of  daily 
routine  to  be  witnessed,  and  that  because  the  whole  of  the  business 
is  carried  on  by  the  womenfolk.  The  long  and  terrible  war  which 
was  waged  by  the  younger  Lopez  for  six  years  very  nearly  exter- 
minated the  male  portion  of  the  community,  so  that  to-day  the 
women  far  outnumber  the  men. 

This  market  is  a  real  live  place,  with  its  crowds  of  dark-haired 
women  and  children,  the  former  clad  in  white  or  brightly  coloured 
dresses  and  wearing  graceful  mantillas  or  shawls  of  varied  hues, 
squatting  upon  the  ground,  surrounded  by  a  medley  of  wares 
in  the  shape  of  fruits,  meats,  sweets,  and  vegetables.  Many  of 
the  groups  that  wear  the  black  mantillas  over  their  heads  and 
falliilg  in  long,  graceful  folds  around  their  shoulders,  reminded 
me  very  much  of  the  funeral  parties  that  mourn  round  the  coffins 
outside  the  country  churches  in  Mexico  ;  but  the  bright  colours 
of  the  fruits  and  flowers,  and  the  blue  of  the  sky,  seemed  to  gain 
in  intensity  from  these  little  touches  of  funereal  black.  Here 
and  there  patient  kine  stand  waiting  to  yield  up  their  supply 
of  milk  to  passing  customers,  whilst  their  muzzled  calves  strive 
in  vain  to  obtain  their  rightful  nourishment.  Panniered  donkeys 
and  mules  are  ranged  in  rows  along  the  railings  that  surround 
the  inner  square,  women  of  all  ages  pass  gracefully  to  and  fro 
amidst  the  crowd,  their  purchases  or  wares  poised  easily  upon 
their  heads,  and  altogether  the  scene  presents  an  animation  that 
is  in  strong  contrast  with  the  listlessness  of  the  rest  of  the  town. 

Not  a  few  of  the  young  girls  and  maidens  are  very  pretty, 
with  slender,  graceful  figures,  jet-black  hair,  and  lustrous  eyes, 
fringed  with  long  lashes,  their  complexions  ranging  from  light 
saffron  to  darkest  olive  shades,  although  a  few  of  them  possess 
a  really  European  appearance.    Their  costumes  are  simple  and 

2r.i 


A  Tour  tliyoiigh  South  Auierica 

inexpensive,  although  many  of  the  poorest  wear  ornaments 
in  the  way  of  earrings  and  necklaces,  of  native  workmanship, 
made  of  silver  and  often  of  gold.  I  noticed,  however,  that  some 
were  wearing  the  cheaper  forms  of  jewellery  of  foreign  manu- 
factur-e,  and  that  the  cut  and  fashions  of  modern  modes  were 
obtaining  popularity  amongst  the  better-to-do  market  women. 

Young  children  of  both  sexes  run  about  in  a  perfectly  nude 
state,  even  in  the  town,  and  in  the  country  this  is  practically 
a  universal  custom.  The  Paraguayans  are  all  rather  short,  but 
strongly  knit  and  wiry.  They  betray  little  evidence  of  Spanish 
blood,  and  although  there  must  be  in  the  towns  many  whose 
origin  is  Indo-Spanish,  the  Indo  predominates.  The  language 
spoken  by  the  masses  is  the  Guarani,  an  Indian  dialect  which  is 
common  over  a  large  district  in  the  heart  of  the  continent. 
The  upper  classes  betray  a  marked  Spanish  origin,  both  in 
their  appearance  and  speech,  and  are  a  httle  better  educated  ; 
but  most  of  the  people  of  real  Spanish  descent  were  killed  during 
the  war,  and  few,  if  any,  remain  to-day  who  can  boast  a  purely 
European  origin,  excepting  always  the  small  number  of  foreigners, 
English,  Itahans,  Germans,  Portuguese,  and  Spaniards,  who 
have  found  their  way  into  the  country  during  the  last  century, 
and  settled  there,  and  those  who  continue  to  flow  in  year  after 
year  from  man}^  climes,  making  their  new  homes  in  this  beautiful 
country. 

Smoking  is  a  universal  habit  amongst  the  women  in  the  market- 
place, and  when  the  thick  black  rolls  of  tobacco  leaf  are  laid 
aside,  mouths  are  generally  closed  over  "  bombillas,"  through 
which  they  suck  the  steaming  "  yerba."  Vendors  of  the  beautiful 
native  lace  wander  up  and  down,  carrying  over  their  arms  baskets 
filled  with  a  large  assortment  of  the  delicate  handiwork.  The 
visitor  is  quickly  singled  out  for  attention,  and  invited  to  inspect 
the  goods,  and  on  his  displaying  the  slightest  curiosity  is  impor- 
tuned to  accompany  the  dame  to  one  of  the  shops  which  surround 
the  market  square,  where,  without  "  by  your  leave  "  to  its  owner, 
the  goods  are  spread  out  upon  a  table  or  counter,  a'nd  a  sale  is 
sure  to  be  effected.  The  proprietor  of  the  shop  looks  calmly  on 
with  apparently  no  interest  in  the  business,  but  it  is  more  than 
likely  that  some  understanding  with  the  itinerant  vendor  exists, 
and  that  when  the  purchaser  has  departed  the  shopkeeper  will 
get  a  commission  for  the  use  of  his  premises.    The  lace  is  very 

2^.2 


Asuncion 

handsome,  and  although  small  pieces  can  be  purchased  for  about 
half  a  sovereign,  the  larger  articles,  with  more  intricate  work- 
manship, cost  as  much  as  thirty  and  forty  pounds.  One  small 
basket,  the  contents  of  which  I  inspected,  must  have  contained 
a  stock  worth  two  or  three  hundred  pounds,  if  the  price  asked 
for  the  various  examples  was  realised  by  the  merry,  middle-aged 
lady  who  hawked  it  round  the  square. 

The  Plaza  is  surrounded  by  houses  of  a  single  story,  which 
have  mostly  been  converted  into  shops.    The  high  pavement 


A   STREET    IX    ASUNCION. 


in  front  of  these,  reached  by  steps,  is  covered  by  deeply  projecting 
tile-covered  eaves  forming  a  kind  of  verandah,  under  which  groups 
of  women  sit  amidst  their  piled-up  wares,  indolently  smoking, 
expectorating,  chattering,  and  laughing. 

Few  market-places  in  the  Old  or  New  World  have  more  distinctly 
unique  characteristics  than  this  of  Asuncion,  none  that  I  have 
ever  seen  are  so  completely  in  the  hands  of  the  fair  sex  or  so  free 
from  the  intrusion  of  men. 

The  city  is  built  on  a  gradual  slope,  which  rises  from  the  river 
and  extends   southwards  for   a   mile  or  more,  its  grass-grown 

233 


A  Tour  through  South  America 

streets  having  different  levels,  many  of  them  descending  with  a 
starthng  suddenness.  In  order  to  progress  in  a  straight  hne  it 
will  be  found  necessary  to  continually  ascend  or  descend  flights 
of  steps,  the  difference  of  level  being  sometimes  as  much  as  twenty 
feet.  The  outlying  streets  are  full  of  interesting  little  domestic 
scenes,  women  with  their  ubiquitous  cigars  busy  at  the  wash- 
tub  or  hanging  out  the  clothes  to  dry  in  the  burning  sun,  culinary 
operations  carried  on  in  the  open  air  under  the  shade  of  overhanging 
eaves  or  leafy  trees.  A  black-draped  doorway  here  and  there 
intimates  to  the  passers-by  that  the  Great  Avenger  has  paid 
his  dire  visit,  and  thiough  the  opening  the  mourners  may  be  seen 
sitting  beside  their  dead,  and  receiving  the  condolences  of  friends 
and  relatives,  a  scene  made  gloomier  by  contrast  with  the  brilliant 
sky  against  which  tall  palms  nod  their  leafy  crowns,  gorgeously 
plumaged  birds  wing  their  joyous  flight,  and  snow-white,  fleecy 
clouds  chase  one  another  in  endless  succession. 

At  midday,  when  the  sunshine  beats  warm  upon  the  sleeping 
town,  the  shops  are  closed,  the  market-place  deserted,  and  deso- 
lation reigns  in  street  and  square,  where  the  heat  from  the  ground 
is  visible  by  the  quivering  motion  of  the  air.  The  glowing  richness 
of  the  country  roads  is  refreshing,  after  these  dry,  parched,  city 
streets,  and  the  boundless  expanse  of  green  hill  and  valley  which 
stretches  around  is  broken  only  by  the  bright  silvery  hght  of  the 
river  that  winds  through  many  and  varied  scenes  north\vards, 
amidst  remote,  unknown  tropical  fastnesses,  and  southwards 
towards  the  largest  city  south  of  the  Equator. 

The  aboriginal  inhabitants  of  South  America  are  always  re- 
ferred to  by  the  Spanish  historians  and  writers  under  the  generic 
name  of  Indians,  and  ver}^  many  tribes  more  or  less  differentiated 
by  customs,  manners,  appearance,  and  language  still  inhabit 
the  continent.  The  Guarani  peoples  who  are  found  to-day  in 
Paraguay  are  distributed  over  a  large  area,  extending  from  the 
main  waters  of  the  Amazon  and  Madeira  rivers  through  the  heart 
of  the  continent.  Amidst  the  forests  and  in  the  dense  chaco  of 
the  Paraguay  and  Parana  rivers  many  still  wander  in  a  primitive 
condition,  whilst  others  but  little  higher  in  the  scale  of  civil- 
isation who  have  come  under  the  influence  of  the  Jesuit  mis- 
sionaries, occupy  villages  and  towns  scattered  throughout  the 
country. 

The  early  European  invaders  of  the  continent  were  relentless 

234 


Astmcioii 

in  their  treatment  of  the  natives  with  whom  they  came  in  contact, 
for  with  the  utmost  rapacity  and  cruelty  they  enslaved  or 
slaughtered  such  of  the  ignorant  and  defenceless  creatures  as 


PARACxUAYAN   SAVAGES. 


were  unable  to  escape  into  the  bush.  The  country  has  witnessed 
countless  scenes  of  brutahty  and  bloodshed,  enacted  frequently 
in  the  name  of  religion,  and  in  some  instances  with  the  sanction 

235 


A  Tour  through  South  America 

and  countenance  of  the  priests  of  Rome,  who  accompanied  the 
expeditions.  The  Jesuit  missionaries  who  began  their  humane 
and  truly  great  work  in  Paraguay  in  1586  must,  however,  be 
acquitted  of  the  charge  of  cruelty  and  barbarity,  displaying, 
as  they  did,  a  wisdom  and  self-sacrifice  that  will  ever  be  memorable 
in  the  annals  of  the  race,  and  the  advent  of  these  truly  brave- 
hearted  men  is  one  of  the  brightest  spots  in  the  whole  of  Paraguayan 
history.  The  sons  of  all  the  nations  of  Europe  contributed  their 
share  to  the  establishment  of  the  mission  stations  among  the 
Indians,  and  laboured  to  teach  the  primitive  savages  the  principles 
of  the  Christian  religion  and  the  industrial  arts  of  peace.  Churches 
were  built,  many  of  which  remain  standing  to-day,  the  trackless 
wilds  and  forests  were  penetrated  by  the  faithful .  band  whose 
unyielding  opposition  to  the  grasping  avarice  and  barbarous 
cruelties  of  the  Spanish  settlers  has  earned  for  them  the  high 
place  in  the  regard  of  subsequent  ages  which  is  their  just  reward. 

Finding  that  the  colonial  authorities  were  careless  of  the  trust 
reposed  in  them,  the  Jesuits  advocated  the  cause  of  the  natives 
to  the  very  steps  of  the  throne  of  Spain,  and  had  the  satisfaction 
of  receiving  the  King's  approval  of  their  efforts  and  his  sanction 
to  their  further  enterprise. 

Unlike  the  generality  of  religious  bodies  of  the  sixteenth  and 
seventeenth  centuries,  the  Jesuits,  instead  of  leading  lives  of 
seclusion,  pursued  an  absolutely  reverse  method,  adopting  a 
policy  of  practical  helpfulness  towards  the  masses  of  mankind, 
irrespective  of  colour,  nationality,  or  creed.  Their  ranks,  com- 
prising some  of  the  cleverest  and  most  business-like  brains  of 
the  time,  were  under  the  able  generalship  of  men  who  were  states- 
men, politicians,  or  fighters,  as  occasion  required,  who  adapted 
their  methods  to  the  countries  in  which  and  the  peoples  amongst 
whom  they  worked,  whilst  their  firmness  of  character  and  mobility 
of  action  were  admirably  suited  to  the  great  task  which  they  set 
themselves. 

Under  their  able  guidance  and  stern  rule  many  tribes  were 
arrested  from  pursuing  the  aimless,  idle  existence  of  nomads, 
and  were  collected  into  villages,  where  church  and  clergy  ministered 
to  their  spiritual  and  temporal  wants.  Individual  members  of 
these  tribes  were  raised  to  positions  of  trust  and  authority  in 
each  village  or  settlement,  native  "  regidors  "  and  "  alcaldes  " 
administered  law  and  maintained  order  ;  the  assistant  clergy 
236 


Asitncion 

managed  all  the  secular  matters  connected  with  the  communities, 
instructing  the  people  in  arts  and  industries,  directing  the  agri- 
cultural labour  upon  the  land,  teaching  the  young,  and  caring 
for  the  aged  and  infirm. 

No  private  property  existed  in  these  Arcadian  settlements, 
and  the  produce  of  nature's  harvests  and  men's  labour  was 
stored  for  common  use,  the  surplus  being  sold  or  exchanged 
to  pay  the  King  of  Spain  taxes  and  to  supply  the  community 
with  such  manufactured  articles  as  they  required  but  were 
unable  to  make  for  themselves.  The  system  evolved  by  the 
missionaries  proved,  whilst  it  lasted,  one  of  the  best  ever  adopted 
for  governing  native  races  and  presented  so  many  points  of 
similarity  to  the  plan  introduced  and  perfected  by  the  Incas 
on  the  Western  Cordillera,  that  it  is  probable  the  Jesuit  fathers 
moulded  their  government  upon  that  of  the  ancient  Peruvian 
theocracy. 

The  simple  South  American  natives  were  easily  led  and  their 
respect  won  by  the  efforts  of  the  handful  of  Jesuits  whose  superior 
wisdom,  strong  character,  and  benign  sympathy  admirably  fitted 
them  for  such  work. 

To  these  pioneers  of  a  just  appreciation  of  the  rights  of  the 
natives,  the  country  owes  much,  and  it  is  unfortunate  that  the 
priests  who  have  succeeded  them  have  not  lived  and  acted  up 
to  the  high  example  set  by  the  early  fathers.  The  falling  away 
is  pitiful  and  the  results  deplorable,  although,  perhaps,  the  present 
state  of  affairs  is  an  improvement  upon  that  existing  in  the  middle 
of  last  century,  when  a  foreign  resident  in  the  city  of  Asuncion 
accused  the  priests  of  crass  ignorance  and  gross  immorahty, 
adding  that  they  were  "  great  cock-fighters  and  gamblers,  possess- 
ing a  vast  influence  over  women,  a  power  which  they  turn  to  the 
basest  of  purposes,  but  they  are  little  respected  by  the  men." 

During  my  visit  to  Pa.raguay  I  met  with  persons  who  still 
believe  the  stories  of  a  wild  tribe  still  extant  who  flee  from  the 
approach  of  strangers,  and  who  roam  the  woods  and  wander 
along  the  banks  of  remote  rivers  in  a  state  of  complete  nudity. 
This  tribe  is  thought  by  some  to  be  the  degenerate  result  of  close 
inter-breeding,  and  it  is  said  that  the  children  who  have  been 
left  behind  and  captured  when  the  tribe  was  suddenly  surprised 
have  been  found  to  be  incapable  of  learning  to  talk.  The  ape- 
like characteristics  of  these  tribes  have  been  much  commented 

237 


A  Tour  fhroitgh  Soufli  America 

upon,  and  the  other  natives  regard  them  as  so  low  in  the  scale 
of  creation  that  they  have  no  compunction  in  shooting  them  down 
at  sight,  looking  upon  them  as  little  better  than  thieving  monkeys. 
These  "  Guaqui  "  Indians  are  reputed  to  have  no  houses  or  huts 
of  any  description,  no  clothes  or  ornaments,  no  knowledge  of 
the  use  of  fire,  and  no  articulate  language,  facts  which,  if  correct, 
would  seem  to  class  them  as  the  lowest  and  most  primitive  human 
beings  at  present  existing  upon  the  earth's  surface. 
The  histor}^  of  every  country  is  to  a  great  extent  moulded  by 


CROSSING   THE   PARAGUAY. 


the  character  of  its  inhabitants,  and  in  the  case  of  Paraguay 
it  is  not  difficult  to  understand  the  causes  of  the  interminable 
and  ever-recurrent  revolutions  which  are  almost  synonymous 
with  the  name  of  the  republic.  Nature  is  in  one  of  her  bountiful 
moods  in  the  heart  of  South  America,  and  does  not  invite  to 
strenuous  toil,  for  existence  is  easy  and  the  development  of 
its  rich  resources  makes  no  appeal  whatever  to  the  indolent 
aborigines  of  the  country. 

The  swelling  rivers  Parana  and  Paraguay  irrigate  the  fertile 
plains,  and  the  warm,  healthy  climate  stimulates  vegetation 
to  a  wild  profusion.  The  whole  aspect  of  the  country  gives  a 
238 


Astmcion 

feeling  of  repose,  and  especially  is  this  true  of  the  rivers,  with 
their  similarity  of  scenery  and  comparative  absence  of  human 
habitations;  whilst  a  journey  up  these  in  flood  time  is  one  through 
absolutely  desolate  regions. 

Even  after  three  centuries  of  contact  with  virile  settlers  from 
Europe,  the  towns  scattered  throughout  the  country  preserve 
the  appearance  of  ancient  centres  of  civilisation  long  abandoned. 
Paraguay  is  a  country  that  does  not  change  outwardly,  what- 
ever poUtical  upheavals  may  disturb  the  routine  of  the  life  of  its 
inhabitants. 


239 


CHAPTER    XX 

A  South  Ameincait  Dictator 

THE  early  history  of  Paraguay  is  almost  identical  with  that 
of  other  South  American  States.  Spain,  its  conqueror  and 
coloniser,  chose  a  psychological  moment  for  the  work — that 
enchanted  f^eriod  in  the  history  of  mankind  when  the  world 
was  opening  grand  visions  to  poets  and  inspiring  warlike  ad- 
venturers on  mighty  quests  through  uncharted  seas  and  in  lands 
unmarked  by  the  footsteps  of  civilisation.  It  would  have  been 
well  for  the  honour  and  glory  of  Spain  had  these  adventurous 
mariners  and  soldiers  been  inspired  with  the  spirit  of  Arthur's 
knights,  for  then  the  history  of  Paraguay  would  not  have  begun 
n midst  scenes  of  brutahty  and  bloodshed. 

The  earliest  Spanish  settlement  in  Paraguay  was  at  Asuncion, 
under  the  leadership  of  Dominges  Irala,  and  the  treatment  which 
he  and  his  followers  meted  out  to  the  Indians  was  similar  to  that 
which  the  luckless  natives  experienced  at  the  hands  of  the 
colonists  throughout  the  continent.  The  Indians  were  reduced 
practically  to  a  state  of  slavery  by  their  taskmasters,  whose 
relationships  with  the  tribal  women  were  of  none  too  scrupulous 
a  character,  so  that  when  the  Jesuit  missionaries  arrived  they 
found  many  abuses,  which  they  did  their  best  to  abolish.  The 
long  period  during  which  the  fathers  administered  the  country 
was  one  of  comparative  peace,  and  it  was  only  when  the  religious 
order  was  banished  from  the  country  that  discord  and  strife 
arose. 

Paraguay  was  separated  from  the  province  of  Buenos  Ayres 
in  1620,  although  the  government  of  both  States  was  administered 
from  Lima,  the  Peruvian  capital.  When  the  spirit  of  liberation 
began  to  stir  the  colonies  to  rebellion  against  the  Spanish  govern- 
ment, the  enthusiasm  of  BoHvar,  the  Liberator,  quickly  spread 
240 


A  South  AiJiericau  Dictator 

through  the  length  and  breadth  of  the  land,  and  the  mother 
country,  with  her  national  spirit  exhausted  and  her  exchequer 
depleted  by  the  costly  Napoleonic  Wars,  was  incapable  of  pre- 
venting the  secession  of  her  oversea  dominions.  One  by  one 
the  countries,  which  are  all  independent  republics  to-day,  broke 
away  from  her  rule,  and  in  the  year  1811  the  autonomy  of  Paraguay 
was  proclaimed  after  a  bloodless  revolution.  This  State  was  the 
last  to  join  in  the  general  movement,  and  then  only  after  having 
refused  the  proffered  assistance  of  the  La  Plata  provinces,  even 
going  the  length  of  repulsing  by  force  the  advance  of  General 
Belgrano,  who  came  to  invite  their  co-operation  against  the 
Spanish  rule. 

A  few  months  afterwards,  however,  they  changed  their  attitude, 
and  followed  the  example  of  the  other  States.  Velasco,  the  Spanish 
Viceroy  of  the  province,  made  little  or  no  resistance  and  was 
allowed  to  occupy  a  position  in  the  new  Government. 

This  first  revolution  was  but  the  precursor  of  a  long  series, 
not  yet  ended,  the  initial  independent  Government  being  soon 
displaced  by  another  revolt,  bloodless  Hke  the  first,  and  a  wealthy 
gaucho — Don  Fulgencio  Yegros — became  President,  occupying 
the  position  for  a  short  period,  with  Dr.  Francia  as  his  adviser. 
In  the  following  year  another  change  took  place,  and  Francia 
became  First  Consul.  For  a  period  of  nearly  thirty  years  this 
strange  personality  guided  the  destinies  of  the  new  State  entirely 
single  handed. 

Little  is  known  of  his  origin  and  early  history,  but  his  reign 
of  terror  is  remembered  to  this  day,  and  was  a  period  of  much 
meaning  in  the  history  of  the  country. 

Francia  seems  to  have  been  of  French  or  Portuguese  extraction, 
and  was  educated  at  Cordova,  in  Tucuman.  His  original  intention 
appears  to  have  been  to  enter  the  Church,  but  he  exchanged  his 
theological  studies  for  those  of  the  law,  and  on  his  return  to 
Asuncion  soon  acquired  a  reputation  as  an  upright  and  honest 
lawyer,  a  hater  of  injustice,  and  a  hermit.  He  became  one  of 
the  chief  advisers  during  the  formation  of  the  repubUc,  and  soon 
rose  to  the  position  of  the  head  of  the  State,. successively  styling 
himself  Consul,  Dictator,  and  finally  Supreme  and  Perpetual 
Dictator.  In  this  position  Francia  soon  gave  evidence  of  his  re- 
markable personality,  one  of  his  first  acts  of  policy  being  to  isolate 
Paraguay  from  the  rest  of  the  world.  Erecting  guardhouses 
Q  241 


A  Tour  through  South  America 

along  its  frontiers  and  forts  upon  its  rivers,  he  succeeded  in  keeping 
the  State  "  a  field  enclosed  "  all  through  his  long  reign.  Not 
a  single  native  was  allowed  to  leave  the  coimtry,  and  the  few 
foreigners  who  succeeded  in  entering  had  the  greatest  difficulty 
in  leaving.  A  few  trading  vessels  were  permitted  to  enter  the 
river  ports,  but  only  when  provided  with  the  Dictator's  licence, 
and  under  the  most  drastic  restrictions  and  supervision.  As 
the  years  wore  on  Francia  grew  more  and  more  despotic,  retiring 
within  himself  and  eschewing  company  until  he  was  as  com- 
pletely isolated  from  the  rest  of  his  kind  as  his  country  was  from 
the  rest  of  the  world. 

The  masses  of  the  people  accepted  his  fearful  rule  with  docility 
and  complaisance,  but  the  more  educated  classes,  whose  oppo- 
sition and  political  intrigues  endangered  the  tyrant's  supremacy, 
were  treated  with  the  greatest  severity,  wholesale  executions 
being  of  frequent  occurrence. 

But  against  such  excesses  towards  the  political  classes  must 
be  set  the  many  beneficent  measiues  he  inaugurated  for  preserving 
the  peace  and  increasing  the  prosperity  of  his  country.  Obtaining 
arms  from  abroad,  he  disciplined  his  soldiers  and  struck  terror 
into  the  hearts  of  the  bandits  and  highwaymen  who  infested  the 
territory.  He  went  about  the  city  making  personal  surveys, 
and  taking  levels  in  connection  with  the  improvements  he  under- 
took. 

Since  the  expulsion  of  the  Jesuits  the  Church  had  sadly  de- 
teriorated and  fallen  low  in  its  influence  for  good  upon  the  popu- 
lation, and  his  efforts  were  untiring  in  endeavouring  to  arouse 
the  clergy  to  a  proper  sense  of  their  secular  duties.  He  himself 
held  advanced  and  enlightened  views  which  inspired  him  with 
contempt  for  the  supine  Church  and  its  sensual,  indolent  priest- 
hood. He  never  attended  Mass,  and  consistently  refused  to  pro- 
fess adherence  to  a  faith  in  which  he  had  no  belief,  but  his  absolute 
honesty  and  devotion  to  the  best  interests  of  his  people  were  un- 
questionable, and  his  methods  saved  the  country  from  many 
years  of  anarchy.  Purging  the  State  of  dishonest  servants,  he 
set  an  example  which  other  republics  might  follow  with  advantage, 
and  his  benevolence  to  the  poor  and  weak  was  only  equalled  by 
his  severity  towards  the  rich  and  strong. 

In  appearance  this  singular  man  was  lean,  tall,  saturnine, 
and  forbidding,  whilst  hi?  qualities  were  a  blend  of  those  as- 
242 


A  South  Aniericau  Dictator 

sociated  with  Cromwell,  Napoleon,  and  Robespierre.  He  filled 
his  subjects  with  an  abiding  dread,  and  they  almost  feared  to 
mention  his  awful  name.  During  his  lifetime  he  was  "El  Supremo," 
and  during  the  years  immediately  after  his  death  he  was  referred 
to  as  "  El  Defuncto."  Few  save  his  bodyguard  dared  to  approach 
him,  and  when  he  passed  through  the  streets  he  ordered  the 
people  to  retire  within  their  houses  and  close  all  doors  and  windows 
upon  pain  of  death,  whilst  anyone  found  loitering  in  the  road 
leading  from  the  palace  to  the  barracks  of  San  Francisco,  almost 
the  only  one  he  traversed,  was  severely  beaten  by  the  soldiers. 
He  frustrated  numerous  plots  made  for  his  assassination,  and 
many  weird  stories  are  told  of  him  and  his  peculiar  relations  with 
his  subjects.  One  old  lady  used  to  relate  how  when  a  child  she 
was  sent  one  day  to  the  market-place  to  buy  oranges,  and  was 
returning  w4th  her  apron  filled  with  them  when  hastily  turning 
a  corner  she  came  unexpectedly  upon  the  dreaded  Dictator. 
She  immediately  fell  upon  her  knees  and  begged  for  her  life, 
the  oranges  meanwhile  scattering  in  all  directions.  Francia 
smiled,  and  gently  said,  "  Go,  my  daughter,  you  have  done  no 
wrong,"  then  rode  upon  his  way. 

On  another  occasion  a  funeral  procession  crossed  the  road  as  he 
approached,  and  the  bearers  immediately  dropped  the  bier, 
priests  and  mourners  hiding  themselves  behind  the  hedge  at  the 
roadside  until  he  had  passed. 

When  in  the  year  1820  a  plague  of  locusts  (a  common  scourge 
of  the  country)  destroyed  all  the  crops  and  ruin  and  starvation 
stared  the  people  in  the  face,  the  Dictator  issued  orders  to  the 
agriculturists  to  at  once  sow  fresh  patches  of  land,  enforcing  his 
decree  with  the  threat  of  heavy  penalties,  with  the  result  that 
a  fairly  good  harvest  was  secured,  and  the  discovery  made  that 
the  country  was  capable  of  yielding  two  good  harvests  in  each 
year. 

It  was  only  when  the  hand  of  death  relieved  Paraguay  from  the 
rule  of  the  Dictator  and  tyrant  that  the  people  breathed  more 
freely.  His  body  was  interred  in  the  "  Iglesia  de  la  Incarnacion  " 
in  Asuncion,  but  the  following  day  it  was  discovered  that  vandal 
hands  had  scattered  the  bricks  of  the  tomb  and  removed  the 
remains.  What  became  of  them  still  remains  a  mystery,  but  the 
explanation  of  the  priests,  "that  the  evil  one  had  carried  them 
away,"  has  long  ceased  to  be  regarded  as  satisfactory. 

243 


CHAPTER    XXI 

More  Modern  Times  hi  Paraguay 

THE  close  of  Francia's  career  opened  a  fresh  chapter  in 
the  history  of  Paraguay.  The  position  occupied  for  three 
decades  by  an  outstanding  personahty  was  not  easily  filled, 
and  for  a  time  two  men,  Carlos  Lopez  and  Mariano  Alonzo,  ruled 
as  joint  Consuls,  until  the  stronger  of  the  two,  Lopez,  took  the 
reins  of  government  into  his  own  hands,  and  secured  for  himself 
the  position  of  President. 

His  rule  was  as  absolute  as  that  of  his  great  predecessor  ; 
but  although  he  made  no  drastic  changes  in  the  rigorous  laws 
of  Francia,  he  administered  them  with  more  indulgence,  and 
the  twenty  years  during  which  he  held  sway  were  comparatively 
uneventful.  At  his  death,  in  1862,  it  was  found  that  by  his  will 
he  provided  that  the  government  should  be  carried  on  by  a 
triumvirate,  which  was  "to  include  his  son  Francesco,  and  when 
the  presidential  election  was  held  the  result  was  a  foregone  con- 
clusion, for  all  the  machinery  was  controlled  by  the  man  who 
was  necessarily  successful.  It  is  almost  impossible,  even  at  this 
time  of  day,  to  write  with  any  restraint  of  Francesco  Lopez, 
a  bloodthirsty  monster  who  had  no  redeeming  quality  save, 
perhaps,  his  affection  for  his  mistress,  Madame  Lynch,  and  the 
children  she  bore  him.  His  exploits  recall  the  wildest  excesses 
of  Tamburlaine  or  the  Spanish  despots  of  the  Dark  Ages,  and  his 
overweening  ambition,  fostered  by  his  mistress,  translated  itself 
into  a  fierce  desire  to  become  a  leading  factor  in  South  America, 
and  landed  his  little  country  into  a  war  which  lasted  for  nearly 
six  years,  and  well-nigh  wiped  out  the  whole  of  the  male  popu- 
lation of  Paraguay. 

It  is  almost  incredible,  until  its  many  fine  natural  defences 
are  considered,  that  so  small  a  State  could  hold  out  for  so  long 
244 


More  Modern  Times  in  Paraguay 


against  the  combined  efforts  of  three  such  powerful  alHes  as 
Brazil,  Argentine,  and  Uruguay.  Had  national  liberty  been  the 
object,  the  struggle  would  have  been  magnificent,  but  being 
undertaken,  as  it  was,  to  gratify  the  caprice  of  a  single  man,  it 
was  a  reprehensible  blunder  which  came  within  an  ace  of  losing 
for  Paraguay  her  independence. 

The  disputes  and  dissensions  which  arose  in  1863  between 
Brazil,  Argentine,  and  Uru- 
guay with  reference  to  a 
revolution  then  in  progress 
in  the  latter  country,  were 
seized  upon  by  Lopez  as  an 
excuse  to  offer  his  services 
as  mediator  between  the  con- 
tending parties.  This  offer 
was  declined  on  all  hands, 
for  the  name  of  Paraguay 
was  not*  popular  in  the 
"Plate"  at  this  time,  owing 
to  the  poUcy  of  the  former 
country  in  excluding  foreign- 
ers, and  badly  treating  those 
who  did  manage  to  get  in. 

Lopez,  thus  repulsed,  seized 
a  Brazilian  steamer  passing 
up  the  river  from  Montevideo 
to  Matto  Grosso,  and  con- 
verted it  into  a  gunboat  for 
his  own  use.  His  next  step 
was  the  invasion  of  Matto 
Grosso,     where      defenceless 

towns  and  villages  were  ruthlessly  sacked  and  burnt.  The  details 
of  the  long  war  that  followed,  the  many  battles,  skirmishes,  and 
bombardments  all  sink  into  insignificance  before  the  conduct  of 
Francesco  Lopez  himself.  The  thin  veneer  of  civilisation  he 
acquired  during  his  stay  in  Paris  soon  wore  off,  and  the  traits 
of  the  Indian  savage,  inherited  from  his  Guycuru  ancestors,  were 
displayed  in  all  their  nakedness. 

The  catalogue   of  his  crimes  includes   the  execution  of  one 
of  his  brothers  and  two  of  his  brothers-in-law.   Their  wives  and 

245 


A    PARAGUAYAN    GENTLEMAN. 


A  Tour  through  South  A^nerica 

his  own  sisters  were  imprisoned  in  cages  and  covered  bullock- 
carts  for  months,  being  fed  through  an  aperture,  as  if  they  were 
wild  beasts,  whilst  one  of  them  was  stripped  nude  and  driven 
thus  through  the  streets.  His  most  intimate  friends  and  best 
generals  were  tortured  and  shot,  and  the  wife  of  one  general 
who  had  surrendered  to  the  enemy  was  speared  by  his  orders. 
He  forced  his  mother,  aged  seventy,  to  swear  before  the  altar 
that  she  recognised  him  only  as  her  child,  compelling  her  to  curse 
the  rest  of  her  children  as  rebels  and  traitors.  He  flouted  the 
nations  with  impunity  and  subjected  foreigners,  including 
EngHsh  and  Americans,  living  in  his  capital  to  the  most  ex- 
cruciating tortures.  This  monster  was  killed  by  the  thrust  of 
a  lance  after  his  few  remaining  troops  had  been  defeated  and 
the  country  reduced  to  utter  helplessness. 

The  three  allies,  Argentine,  Brazil,  and  Uruguay,  had  by  a 
treaty  signed  in  1865  bound  themselves  to  respect  and  guarantee 
for  a  period  of  five  years  the  independence,  sovereignty,  and 
territorial  integrity  of  Paraguay,  and  the  new  Gctvernment 
which  arose  from  out  the  ruins  undertook  to  pay  a  war  indemnity 
•of  nearly  fifty  million  pounds  sterhng,  a  debt,  it  is  almost  needless 
to  say,  that  has  not  been  discharged  up  to  the  present  time. 
The  jealousies  of  these  erstwhile  allies  are  the  best  guarantee 
of  the  continued  independence  of  Paraguay,  and  even  the  con- 
tinual dislocation  of  business  occasioned  by  the  incessant  revo- 
lutions in  the  country  does  not  tempt  outsiders  to  interfere. 

The  last  two  or  three  years  would  have  been  prosperous  ones 
for  the  country  but  for  the  political  unrest  which  makes  it  almost 
impossible  for  any  development  to  take  place. 

In  igio  Sehor  Gondra  was  elected  President,  and  formed 
his  ministry  ;  but  he  was  unfortunate  in  his  choice  of  Albino 
Jara  for  the  portfolio  of  war.  Jara  headed  a  revolution  to  depose 
his  chief,  and  in  January,  191 1,  succeeded  in  usurping  the  presi- 
dential chair.  In  a  month  Gondra  started  a  counter  revolution 
to  regain  his  lost  position,  and  a  fight  took  place,  in  which  six 
or  seven  hundred  Paraguayans,  who  could  ill  be  spared,  lost 
their  lives.  The  revolt  was  unsuccessful,  and  the  chief  officer 
of  Gondra's  party  was  taken  prisoner  and  shot.  Albino  Jara  does 
not  seem  to  have  inspired  his  followers  with  much  attachment, 
although  he  is  alleged  to  have  increased  the  pay  of  the  army, 
and  in  July,  1911,  they  revolted  against  his  petty  tyranny,  and 
246 


More  Modern  Times  in  Paraguay 

he  was  either  persuaded  to  leave  or  was  shipped  out  of  the  country 
with  a  pension  and  the  title  of  general.  The  president  of  the  senate 
was  called  upon  to  fill  the  place  of  President  until  a  new  one 
should  be  elected,  but  the  role  so  appealed  to  him  that  he  resigned 
the  occupancy  of  both  positions  in  order  to  offer  himself  as  a 
candidate  for  a  term  of  the  Presidency. 

Having  secured  both  nomination  and  election,  Liberado  M. 
Rogas  was  installed  for  the  term  which  ends  in  November,  1914, 
but  Gondra  and  his  followers,  men  of  means  and  position,  obtained 
possession  of  boats,  guns,  and  men,  and  having  the  sympathy 
of  the  best  citizens,  succeeded  in  November,  191 1,  in  obtaining 
the  upper  hand.  The  country  was  in  the  thick  of  this  revolt 
during  my  visit,  and  I  saw  enough  in  the  short  time  I  was  there 
to  convince  me  that  the  lot  of  the  average  Paraguayan  is  far  from 
enviable,  despite  his  romantic  and  Arcadian  surroundings,  where 
the  sun  is  always  shining  and  the  women  have  no  vote  but  do  all 
the  hard  work.  On  all  hands  one  heard  complaints  of  the  dis- 
location of  trade,  whilst  timid  folk  who  were  unable  to  escape 
out  of  the  country  did  their  best  to  hide  themselves. 

Foreigners  in  the  city  had  to  display  the  greatest  caution  in 
their  relations  with  the  natives.  One  Englishman,  whose  son  was 
lying  dangerously  ill  with  typhoid  fever,  being  seen  in  conversation 
with  the  doctor  who  was  attending  the  case,  was  immediately 
warned  by  the  authorities  not  to  mix  himself  up  with  politics. 

Soldiers  were  posted  at  the  corners  of  the  deserted  streets 
ever  ready  to  pounce  upon  likely  recruits,  and  so  desperate  was  the 
need  of  the  Government  for  men  that  even  foreigners  were  in 
danger  of  being  pressed  into  the  service.  I  met  a  youth  of  Italian 
extraction  a  few  minutes  after  he  had  escaped  from  the  clutches 
of  the  Army  Board.  He  had  been  stopped  in  the  street  by  a 
couple  of  soldiers  and  carried  off  to  the  barracks,  where  he  found 
many  acquaintances  who  had  been  similarly  captured.  He  was 
closely  questioned,  in  G'uarani,  regarding  himself,  and  had  the 
presence  of  mind  to  feign  complete  ignorance  of  that  language 
and  to  employ  the  Spanish  in  demanding  the  reason  of  his  de- 
tention. A  proficiency  in  Guarani  would  have  been  taken  as 
practical  proof  that  the  speaker  was  a  native.  Fortunately  this 
young  Italian  was  provided  with  mihtary  papers  which  proved 
his  nationality,  and  after  an  irksome  and  searching  inquiry  he 
was  released. 

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A  Tour  through  South  America 

I  continually  met  in  the  streets  detachments  of  civiHans  under 
close  guard  on  their  wa}^  to  the  barracks,  and  found  that  shops 
were  closed,  cafes  deserted,  whilst  the  population,  nervous  and 
apprehensive,  kept  themselves  in  the  background.  The  wharves 
bristled  with  armed  men,  whose  wretched  physique  and  poor 
clothing  gave  them  anything  but  a  military  appearance,  and 
they  seemed  more  anxious  to  keep  out  of  harm's  way  than  to 
run  any  risk  of  encounter  with  an  enemy. 

When  the  steamers  were  leaving  the  port  a  number  of  officials 
went  on  board  and  carefully  scrutinised  the  passengers,  who 
had  all  to  be  provided  with  passports  to  enable  them  to  leave 
the  country,  and  it  was  not  until  the  city  was  left  far  behind 
and  the  town  of  Villeta  safely  passed  that  the  apprehensions  of 
many  passengers  and  fugitives  were  dispelled. 

This  magnificent  and  rich  country  is  still  a  wilderness  awaiting 
development,  for  its  progress  during  the  last  fifty  years  has  been 
so  slow  that  much  remains  to  be  done  to  bring  it  into  line  with 
the  general  advance  made  by  the  surrounding  repubhcs. 


248 


CHAPTER    XXII 

A  Glance  at  Brazilian  History 

IF  geographical  extent,  length  of  seaboard,  variety  of  resources, 
number  of  cities,  constitute  the  importance  of  a  country, 
then  Brazil  may  fairly  claim  to  be  the  most  important  State  in 
South  America. 

It  is  2600  miles  from  north  to  south,  and  2500  miles  from  east 
to  west,  and  has  a  seaboard  extending  for  3700  miles.  In  square 
mileage  it  is  exceeded  only  by  the  British  Empire,  Russia,  China, 
and  the  United  States.  It  occupies  33  per  cent  of  the  whole 
continent  of  South  America,  for  it  contains  within  its  borders 
3,291,416  square  miles.  It  is  the  proud  boast  of  Brazilian  authors 
that  their  country  is  in  one  sense  the  most  remarkable  on  the 
globe,  because  it  is  peopled  by  a  single  nation,  and  not  by  a  hetero- 
geneous medley  of  races,  a  contention  which  is  perhaps  not 
strictly  justified,  for  even  in  Brazil  many  different  nationalities 
go  to  swell  its  population,  which  is  quite  small  for  the  tremendous 
area  it  occupies.  To-day  it  does  not  contain  more  than  eighteen 
or  nineteen  millions  of  inhabitants.  Each  year  sees  an  increasing 
emigration  to  it,  and  the  nationalities  of  the  new-comers  are 
over  thirty  in  number.  Some  become  naturalised,  many  refrain 
from  bothering  about  a  formality  which  bestows  few  advantages 
and  many  obligations.  The  Brazilian  people  is  made  up  of  three 
distinct  races,  Europeans  mostly  of  Latin  origin,  indigenous 
Indians  and  negroes  imported  from  Africa.  These  different 
races  have  mixed  and  bred,  and  to  some  extent  have  intermarried, 
and  the  numerous  half-breeds  which  now  inhabit  the  country 
are  the  result.  Half  whites  and  half  Indians  are  called  "  Caboclos," 
white  and  Indian  "  Mameluco,"  white  and  negro  "  Mulattos," 
the  descendants  of  Mulatto  parents  "Cascos."  The  full-blooded 
negro  is  termed  "  Creole,"  the  cross  between  them  and  the  Indians 

249 


(;  do  Norte 


A  Glance  at  Brazilian  History 

"  Carboreto."  These  are  only  a  few  of  the  many  results  of  these 
strange  alliances,  for  there  are  hundreds  of  variations  resulting 
from  further  matrimonial  complications.  Yet  the  Brazilian 
claims  them  all  as  comprising  one  nation.  Further,  there  are 
to-day  many  strong  and  settled  colonies  of  Germans,  Italians, 
and  Spaniards  in  different  localities,  particularly  in  the  south, 
which  are  at  present  entirely  free  from  the  admixture  of  the 
diverse  strains  that  run  all  through  the  central  and  northern 
States.  All  over  Brazil  pure  negroes  still  exist,  as  well  as  un- 
diluted Indians,  and  they  have  the  same  rights  and  privileges 
as  their  lighter-skinned  neighbours,  and  mix  with  them  with 
a  freedom  that  is  scarcely  found  in  any  other  country.  There 
is  no  colour  question  in  Brazil,  no  antagonism  as  in  the  United 
States  of  the  north,  and  it  seems  extremely  likely  that  the  merging 
of  the  diverse  races  will  go  on  uninterruptedly  until  a  new  type 
is  evolved.  When  one  looks  back  and  considers  the  problems 
that  confronted  the  mere  handful  of  adventurous  Portuguese 
pioneers  who  first  settled  upon  this  vast  continent,  it  does  not 
seem  at  all  remarkable  that  they  should  have  mingled  with 
the  races  they  found  and  with  the  slave  women  they  imported. 
The  rough  adventurers  of  the  sixteenth  and  seventeenth  centuries 
went  out  to  seek  their  fortunes  in  wild  countries,  and  they  would 
hesitate  to  take  their  womenfolk,  even  if  the  latter  were  not 
loath  to  go.  This  led  to  their  alliances  with  native  and  foreign 
races,  and  to  the  population  which  was  destined  to  hold,  if  not 
to  develop,  the  vast  country  which  lay  around  them.  The  negro, 
who  has  a  reputation  for  laziness,  has  not  transmitted  to  his 
descendants  any  remarkable  quahties  for  activity,  unless  it  be 
the  irrepressible  emotionalism  which  is  characteristic  of  many 
of  the  inhabitants  of  Brazil.  Nor  has  the  Indian  who  for  such 
long  ages  lived  in  the  most  primeval  fashion  transmitted  much 
initiative.  So  that  what  there  is  of  activity  and  progress  in  the 
race  to-day  must  come  from  the  Portuguese  and  other  European 
ancestry.  It  is  an  interesting  study,  full  of  suggestion,  this  of 
pedigree,  even  if  the  student  is  unsuccessful  in  arriving  at  any 
definite  conclusion.  The  resources  of  the  country  are  enormous, 
diverse,  and  practically  inexhaustible,  but  they  have  been  lying 
for  all  the  ages  hardly  touched  and  generally  inadequately  worked. 
The  mixed  inhabitants  are  settled  upon  lands  which  shelve  down 
from  the  mountains  to  the  Atlantic  coast,  or  along  the  banks 

251 


A  Tour  through  South  America 


of  the  mighty  rivers  which  flow  through  the  impenetrable  forests 
out  to  sea.  There  are  vast  districts  of  virgin  forest  and  trackless 
wild  where  white  man  has  never  penetrated,  and  where  the 
aboriginal  Indian  is  just  as  savage  and  untamed  as  were  his 
ancestors  upwards  of  four  centuries  ago  when  European  mariners 
first  landed  on  their  shores.  Brazil,  as  we  know  it  to-day,  or  at 
least  the  civiHsed  portion  of  it,  was  created  by  Portugal,  and  it 
was  one  of  the  distinguished  sons  of  that  little  nation  who  had 
the  honour  of  being  its  discoverer.  In  the  year  1500  Pedro  Alvarez 

Cabral,  sailing  from 
Lisbon  ostensibly  to 
make  an  all-sea  voy- 
age to  India,  diverted 
his  course  off  the 
Cape  of  Good  Hope 
and  sailed  to  the 
south-west.  Forty  r 
two  days  after  leav- 
ing Portugal  the  eyes 
^^^^^^^^  of  the  adventurous 
%.  -n-^w   *     ^1/^^^^^^B      seaman  rested  upon 

W  '^Hmymf^^        ^W      ^^^^^    Paschoal    in 

the  State  of  Bahia. 

The  event  was  mo- 
mentous and  the  hour 
propitious,  for  every- 
thing favoured  Por- 
tuguese expansion. 
The  independence  of  the  little  kingdom  was  an  accomplished  fact, 
and  the  possibihty  of  absorption  of  it  by  Spain  was  a  remote 
contingency.  The  Moors,  driven  out  of  the  Iberian  Peninsula  and 
hurled  back  to  their  native  Africa,  were  no  longer  a  menace.  In 
addition  to  this  the  Portuguese  were  quick  to  perceive  that  a 
new  era  was  dawning  upon  the  world,  and  they  were  determined 
to  have  a  hand  in  the  shaping  and  controHing  the  future  destinies 
of  the  newly  discovered  continent.  The  conquest  and  colonisation 
of  Brazil  were  a  national  corollary  to  the  earher  discoveries  of 
Portuguese  navigators.  Cabral,  with  his  companions,  was 
at  first  inchned  to  believe  that  they  had  struck  upon  another 
island  similar  to  those  recently  discovered  in  the  Caribbean 
252 


BEAUTIES   AT    PERNAMBUCO, 


A  Glance  at  Brazilian  History 

seas  by  their  Spanish  rivals,  and  he  christened  it,  after  the  fashion 
of  the  period,  "The  Island  of  the  True  Cross,"  and  it  was  only 
when  the  geographical  error  was  reahsed  that  the  name  was 
altered  to  Brazil.  This  name  had  been  used  long  before,  for  a 
western  island  of  the  Azores  was  named  "  De  Brazi,"  being  derived 
from  the  red  dye  woods  which  grow  so  plentifully  in  tropical 
latitudes. 

\  Following  immediately  upon  the  discovery  of  "  Brazil  "  by 
Cabral  and  the  nominal  possession  of  it  by  the  Crown  of  Portugal, 


expeditions  were  sent,  and  in  two  of  these  the  celebrated  Amerigo 
Vespucci  took  part.  He  built  a  fort  at  Cape  Frio,  and  was  so 
struck  by  the  loveliness  of  the  surrounding  country  that  he 
thought  he  was  in  the  region  of  an  earthly  paradise.  Voyagers 
on  their  way  to  the  Indies  began  to  touch  upon  the  Brazihan 
coast,  and  it  soon  became  explored  by  navigators  of  different 
nationalities.  Portugal,  jealous  of  her  rights,  had  to  protect  it 
from  the  traders  of  France,  who  were  beginning  to  have  dealings 
with  the  natives  upon  its  shores,  and  in  1527  a  post  was  established 
for  the  protection  of  Portuguese  interests.  This  fort  or  garrison 
at  Pernambuco  was  the  scene  of  one  or  two  raids  by  both  French 

253 


A  Tour  through  South  America 

and  English  seamen,  and  which  hastened  the  Portuguese  Crown 
to  take  serious  steps  to  occupy  the  new  territory  in  a  more  im- 
posing manner.  In  1531  Martin  Affonso,  with  a  fleet  and  about 
300  colonists,  landed  at  Pernambuco,  and  coasted  down  in  the 
Bay  of  Rio,  and  to  the  mouth  of  the  bay  where  Santos  now  stands. 
On  behalf  of  the  Crown  he  divided  the  land  out  into  sections, 
running  from  the  coast  into  the  interior  indefinitely,  and  these 
were  granted  to  nobles  of  the  Court,  who  were  so  unsuccessful  in 
developing  their  concessions  that  they  were  allowed  to  revert 
to  the  Crown.  The  Portuguese,  unhke  their  Spanish  rivals,  made 
no  great  expeditions  into  the  hinterland  of  their  new  colony, 
and  were  slow  to  bring  the  Indians  under  their  rule.  The  vastness 
of  the  country,  and  the  ease  with  which  the  natives  could  with- 
draw from  the  invaders,  made  it  necessary  for  the  governors 
who  were  planted  up  and  down  the  coast  to  have  recourse  to  the 
importation  of  negro  slaves  from  Africa  to  the  northern  provinces. 
Gradually  the  traders  made  journeys  into  the  interior,  generally 
along  the  rivers,  to  trade  with  natives,  and  villages  took  root  ; 
but  the  greater  part  of  the  population  settled  upon  the  coasts  in 
such  towns  as  Pernambuco,  Bahia,  Rio,  Espirito  Santo,  Sao 
Paulo,  etc. 

Of  course  there  were  rapacious  traders  who  tried  to  exact 
too  much  from  the  natives,  but  a  salutary  check  against  their 
tyranny  was  soon  provided  by  the  Jesuits.  These  enthusiastic 
and  energetic  followers  of  Loyola  have  left  a  deep  and  abiding 
mark  on  nearly  all  the  South  American  communities.  They 
built  churches,  founded  schools,  and  taught  the  Indians  the 
arts  of  agriculture,  and  all  that  they  asked  in  return  was  obedience 
and  conformity  with  the  rites  of  the  Church.  The  "  PauHstas," 
as  the  lay  settlers  were  termed,  saw  in  Jesuit  influence  an  obstacle 
to  their  own  domination  over  the  supply  of  native  labour,  and 
conflicts  between  the  religious  and  secular  powers  lasted  for 
more  than  a  century,  the  mother  country  sometimes  siding 
with  one  faction  and  sometimes  with  the  other.  But  the  priests 
persisted  with  that  zeal  which  is  the  traditional  mark  of  their 
order,  and  suffered  persecution,  privation,  and  even  death, 
rather  than  relinquish  their  mission.  Vestiges  of  their  work 
are  still  to  be  found  in  many  parts  of  Brazil  and  neighbouring 
States,  notably  in  the  place-names,  which  are  often  derived 
from  the  saints,  symbols,  and  sacraments  of  the  Church. 

254 


A  Glmice  at  Brazilian  History 

In  the  welter  of  South  American  poHtics  Brazil  has  suffered 
those  frequent  changes  of  government  which  have  been  the 
fate  of  every  republic  existing  in  the  sub-continent  to-day.  The 
first  European  country  to  contest  the  claim  of  Portugal  to  this 
vast  territory  was  France.  But  although  an  island  in  the  Bay 
of  Rio  was  occupied  by  some  French  troops  in  15 15,  the  danger 
of  permanent  French  rule  was  never  a  strong  probabihty,  and 
it  was  not  long  before  the  invaders  were  dislodged.  A  more 
serious  phase  of  its  history  was  when,  in  the  year  1581,  Phihp  II 
of  Spain  united  the  two  kingdoms  in  the  Peninsula,  and  the 
affairs  of  the  Brazilian  colony  were  directed  from  headquarters 
at  Madrid. 

It  was  the  Dutch  w^ho  next  had  a  shot  for  the  prize  of  supremacy 
in  Brazil,  and  a  very  successful  shot  it  was.  Spain  had  by  this 
time  passed  the  zenith  of  her  prosperity,  and  was  "  hasting  to 
her  setting."  Holland  was  becoming  a  predominant  maritime 
power  in  Europe,  and  her  companies  and  adventurers  were 
resolutely  determined  to  establish  empires  both  in  the  Orient 
and  the  Western  Hemisphere,  and  some  of  the  settlements  which 
they  founded  in  those  vigorous  years  own  allegiance  to  the  Dutch 
flag  to-day. 

Holland  sent  her  best  sailors  to  Brazil,  and  for  a  time  it  looked 
as  if  the  dominion  not  only  of  Spain  but  of  Portugal  also  was 
ended  in  that  quarter  of  the  globe.  For  a  time  the  Dutch  were 
practically  complete  masters  of  many  of  the  principal  provinces. 
But  the  Brazilians  had  a  spirit  of  their  own,  and  never  at  any 
time  showed  a  disposition  to  submit  tamely  to  the  encroachments 
of  the  Dutch.  When  the  successful  revolution  in  Portugal  threw 
off  the  Spanish  domination  in  1640,  and  the  Duke  of  Braganza 
was  proclaimed  King  of  Portugal,  under  the  title  of  Dom  Joao  IV, 
and  was  recognised  as  the  rightful  sovereign  to  all  the  Portuguese 
possessions  not  under  Dutch  control,  an  armistice  was  signed 
between  Holland  and  Portugal,  But  that  did  not  affect  the 
Brazihans  overmuch  ;  they  continued  their  strenuous  attempts 
to  get  rid  of  the  Dutch.  The  people  of  Maranhao  rose  in  revolt 
in  1642,  and  the  Pernambucans  followed  suit  in  1645.  The  battles 
that  followed  were  adverse  to  the  Dutch  arms,  and  finally  the 
commander.  General  van  Schoppe,  had  to  capitulate,  all  the 
fortresses  still  occupied  by  the  Dutch  being  turned  over  to  the 
King  of  Portugal. 

255 


A  Tour  through  South  America 

It  is  perhaps  as  well  for  both  countries  that  Holland  had  to 
relax  her  hold,  for  the  Brazilians  were  separated  from  their 
Dutch  conquerors  by  the  differences  of  language,  and  the  still 
more  vital  differences  of  rehgion.  Protestantism  is  not  under- 
stood in  the  South  American  republics,  and  therefore  any  attempts 
by  Holland  to  make  the  Brazilians  conform  to  the  tenets  of  the 
Reformed  Church  could  only  have  ended  in  signal  failure.  The 
fierce  Latin  spirit  was  well  manifested  by  the  great  leader  of  the 


THE   RAILWAY    UP  TO   CORCOVADA. 


Brazilian  revolt,  Juan  Fernandez  Vievia,  when  at  the  battle 
of  Tabocas  he  urged  his  troops  against  the  alien  invaders  with 
the  words,  "  Portuguese  !   At  the  heretics  !   God  is  with  us  !  " 

Gut  of  this  victorious  struggle  with  the  Dutch,  Brazil  emerged 
a  nation,  though  it  was  not  for  some  time  yet  that  she  was 
to  forswear  the  suzerainty  of  Portugal  and  declare  her  own 
autonomy. 

The  next  stage  in  her  variegated  history  is  a  quiet  one.  During 
the  remainder  of  the  seventeenth  and  the  whole  of  the  eighteenth 
century  the  connection  with  Portugal  was  maintained  un- 
disturbed, and  the  period  of  calm  was  occupied  by  the  colonists 
256 


A  Glance  at  Brazilian  History 

to  penetrate   farther   and   farther   into   the   interior,   spreading 
agriculture,  increasing  existing  crops  and  raising  new  ones. 

A  big  development  came  during  the  early  years  of  the  nineteenth 
century.   The  Napoleonic  wars  had  caused  all  kinds  of  disruptions 


COMING  DOWN  FROM  CORCOVADA. 

and  complications,  and  naturally  Portugal,  which  was  in  the  thick 
of  the  struggle,  could  not  escape  them.  The  Prince  Regent, 
Dom  Joao  VI,  began  to  find  Lisbon  too  hot  to  hold  him, 
and  he  transferred  the  Court  to  Rio  de  Janeiro  in  1808. 
The  Brazilians  received  him  well,  but  his  reign  there  was  not 
happy.  When  affairs  in  the  home  country  became  more  quiet 
R  257 


A  Tour  through  South  America 

the  monarch's  counsellors  in  Lisbon  urged  his  return,  and  with 
that  request  he  complied,  his  son,  Dom  Pedro,  remaining  at  Rio 
as  Prince  Regent.  Signs  were  abundantly  evident  that  the  spirit 
of  nationhood  had  established  itself  very  firmly  in  the  hearts 
of  the  BraziHan  people,  and  that  they  were  not  prepared  to 
brook  interference  from  the  Court  in  Lisbon,  which  was  con- 
stantly acting  in  a  high-handed  and  arbitrary  manner.  Many 
national  leaders  of  eminence  arose,  and  it  was  not  long  before 
a  declaration  of  independence  was  made,  and  Portugal  did  little 
or  nothing  to  prevent  the  severance.  But  Dom  Pedro,  who, 
whatever  his  faults  may  have  been,  had  a  national  resilience  of 
mind,  determined  to  stop  with  the  reformers,  and  his  reward 
came  when  he  was  promoted  to  the  headship  of  the  State  under 
the  imposing  title  of  Emperor. 

A  digression  may  be  made  here  touching  the  strain  of  insanity 
which  characterised  this  particular  Royal  line.  One  action  of 
Dom  Joao's  is  almost  as  incredible  as  it  is  gruesome.  He  ordered 
that  his  mother,  who  had  started  her  career  by  marrying  her 
uncle  and  ended  it  in  an  asylum  in  Brazil,  should  not  be  buried 
for  six  years. 

If  the  body  had  been  embalmed  that  would  have  been  nothing 
unusual,  but  the  Portuguese  law  prescribes  such  treatment  only 
for  males  of  the  Royal  house.  When  Joao  found  himself  back 
in  Lisbon  he  gave  orders  for  his  mother's  body  to  be  brought 
from  Brazil  and  buried  with  state  ceremony  ;  the  Queen,  be  it 
noted,  had  been  six  years  dead  ! 

Here  is  an  eye-witness's  account  of  the  awful  spectacle  :  ''  The 
next  day  the  Church  of  the  Estrella  overflowed  with  spectators, 
and  the  corpse  was  exposed  in  full  court  dress,  while  the  nobility 
came  successively  to  kiss  the  hand  ! . . .  Two  of  the  young  princesses 
were  appointed  by  the  King  to  the  high  honour  of  presiding,  and 
four  ladies-in-waiting  performed  the  enviable  oihce  of  tire- 
women to  the  corpse.  It  had  been  brought  over  from  Brazil 
enclosed  in  three  cofhns,  the  inner  one  of  lead,  where  it  was  laid, 
surrounded  by  aromatic  herbs,  gems,  and  essences.  .  .  .  One  of 
the  princesses  fainted  twice,  and  was  too  ill  to  reappear  ;  but 
her  sister  was  obliged  to  remain,  while  the  ladies  raised  the  body 
and  completely  reclothed  it  in  a  black  robe,  a  dress  cap,  gloves, 
shoes,  and  stockings,  and  adorned  it  with  four  splendid  orders 
upon  the  heart."   This  throws  a  lurid  hght  on  the  attitude  still 

258 


A  Glance  at  Brazilian  History 

shown  to  the  dead  in  some  Latin- American  countries.  The 
bodies  of  the  rich  are  treated  with  garish  pomp  ;  the  bodies 
of  the  poor  with  shameful  neglect,  if  not  with  contumely. 

Dom  Pedro  I  was  a  daring,  dashing  monarch,  with  mercurial 
blood  running  in  his  veins.   His  attempts  to  establish  absolutism 


THE  CHURCH  OF  THE  CANDELIERA,  RIO. 

'irritated  the  Brazilians,  who  had  now  advanced  too  far  along 
the  path  of  political  freedom  to  tolerate  that  sort  of  thing  ;  so, 
in  the  struggle  between  people  and  ruler,  the  ruler  got  the  worst 
of  it.  In  1831,  cowed  by  the  determined  front  which  the  troops 
and  civihans  presented,  Pedro  I  abdicated  in  favour  of  his  infant 
son,  Dom  Pedro  de  Atcantara.  His  was  a  curious  type  of  character, 
and  the  most  that  can  be  said  of  him  is  that  he  made  a  showy 

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A  Tour  through  South  America 

figure  on  the  South  American  stage,  where  showy  figures  have 
in  the  past  been  so  abundant.  His  faults  were  not  only  political ; 
in  his  private  life  he  was  far  from  being  a  paragon. 

Pedro  II  was  only  five  years  old  when  he  succeeded  to  the  throne 
of  Brazil,  and  for  ten  years  the  country  was  governed  by  a  regency 
of  three  members  elected  by  the  legislative  chambers,  and  latterly 
by  one  chosen  by  the  electors.  As  might  be  surmised,  things 
did  not  go  smoothly,  and  many  risings,  revolts,  and  intrigues 
embarrassed  the  Government,  which,  however,  was  successful 
in  quelHng  them  for  the  time  being.  In  1840,  the  King  being 
fifteen  years  of  age,  he  was  declared  to  be  of  legal  age,  and  he 
started  on  his  long  and  popular  reign.  Two  political  parties  re- 
presented the  people,  the  Liberals  and  Conservatives,  and  alter- 
nately they  obtained  the  ascendancy  and  grasped  the  ruling 
power.  The  civil  wars  which  raged  and  distracted  the  country 
in  the  southern  State  of  Rio  Grande  were  followed  by  the  terrible 
struggle  with  Paraguay,  which  was  not  concluded  till  1872. 
The  agitation  for  the  aboHtion  of  the  slave  trade  in  1850  was  but 
the  precursor  of  the  total  abolition  of  slavery  itself  nearly  forty 
years  afterwards.  For  years  the  voices  of  the  abolitionists  were 
raised  in  the  Houses  of  Congress,  with  the  result  that  first  the 
trade  was  abolished  (1857),  next  the  declaration  that  slave-born 
children  were  free  (1871),  and  finally  all  slaves  were  given  their 
absolute  libert}^  (1888).  These  drastic  changes  in  the  economical 
conditions  of  labour  in  the  country  were  not  brought  about 
without  much  opposition.  Great  losses  were  incurred  by  the 
planters  and  slave-owners,*  who,  bitterly  opposed  to  the  hbera- 
tion,  turned  hostile  to  the  Emperor  when  he  signed  the  decree, 
and  opposed  the  claims  they  urged  for  compensation.  The  loss 
of  the  support  of  this  wealthy  and  influential  class  was  an  im- 
portant factor  in  the  overthrow  of  the  monarchy.  But. the  spirit 
of  republicanism  which  had  been  engendered  by  the  French 
Revolution  was  growing  in  Brazil  and  two  or  three  attempts 
had  already  been  made  to  establish  free  institutions  in  the  country. 
The  Republican  party  had  been  organised  for  some  years,  and  an 
opportunity  occurred,  and  the  combination  of  the  anti-monar- 

*  One  or  two  of  the  planters  were  notable  exceptions  to  the  general  opposition 
to  the  liberation.  Antonio  du  Silva  Prado,  a  wealthy  Paulista  and  the  owner  of 
hundreds  of  slaves,  performed  a  noble  act  when  he  set  all  his  negroes  at  liberty 
before  the  law  was  passed,  and  many  planters  in  Suo  Paulo  followed  his  example 
by  freeing  their  slaves  forthwith. 

260 


A  Glance  at  Brazilian  History 


chists  brought  about  the  declaration  of  the  republic  in  i< 
The  feeble  old  Emperor  recognised  the  strength  of  the  forces 
arrayed  against  him,  and.  powerless  to  resist  the  trend  of  circum- 
stances, he  took  his  conge  gracefully.  In  reply  to  the  communi- 
cation of  the  Marshal  Deodoro  du  Fonseca,  which  informed  the 
Emperor  of  the  intention  of  the  new  republic  and  of  his  dismissal, 
he  wrote :  "  Yielding  to  the  imperiousness  of  circumstances 
I  have  resolved  to  set  out  with  my  family  to-morrow  for  Europe, 
leaving  this  country  so  dear  to  us  all,  and  to  which  I  have  en- 
deavoured to  give  constant  proof  of  my  love  during  the  nearly 
half  a  century  in  which  I  have  discharged  the  office  of  chief  of 
State :  while  thus  leaving  with  my  whole  family  I  shall  ever 
retain  for  Brazil  the  most  heartfelt  affection  and  ardent  good 
wishes  for  her  prosperity." 

The  new  republic  with  Marshal  Deodoro  at  its  head  soon  got 
to  work,  and  a  constitutional  Assembly  was  organised  to  compile 
the  constitution  of  the  republic.  This  was  published  in  the  early 
part  of  1891,  and  in  the  latter  part  of  the  same  year  the  first 
President  was  obliged  to  resign  owing  to  the  trouble  that  arose 
over  his  arbitrary  unconstitutional  closing  of  the  Congress. 
The  army  and  navy  were  against  the  "  dictator,"  and  the  States 
threatened  revolt,  and  peace  was  only  restored  when  the  Vice- 
President,  Floriano  Peixoto,  took  the  Presidency.  More  con- 
spiracies and  revolts  followed  in  several  of  the  States,  and  the 
navy  openly  defied  the  Government,  Admiral  de  Mello  demanding 
the  President's  resignation  and  surrender.  Rio  and  Nictheroy 
were  in  a  state  of  siege,  and  the  army  placed  in  positions  to  defend 
and  keep  open  the  entrance  to  the  harbours.  Rio  was  bombarded, 
and  general  disorder  prevailed,  and  civil  war  raged  all  over  the 
republic.  The  "  Iron  Marshal,"  as  Peixoto  is  sometimes  called, 
succeeded  eventually  in  quelhng  the  revolting  factors,  and  owing 
to  the  general  desire  he  relinquished  the  reins  of  office  to  Dr. 
Prudente  de  Morales,  a  President  who  was  acceptable  to  all 
classes,  and  who  was  elected  without  opposition  in  1894.  There 
have  been  eight  Presidents  since  the  republic  was  inaugurated, 
and  under  each  the  country,  in  spite  of  many  internal  dissensions, 
has  made  great  strides. 

Brazil  is  destined  to  assume  in  the  future  a  far  greater  im- 
portance in  the  comity  of  nations  than  it  can  boast  at  present. 
Its  people  have  no  mean  record  behind  them  ;  they  have  shown 

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A  Tour  through  South  Afnerica 

a  passion  for  independence  and  an  increasing  capacity  for  govern- 
ment, which  argues  well  for  the  building  up  of  that  great  edifice 
which  is  certain  sooner  or  later  to  arise  in  South  America.  That 
they  are  capable  of  military  valour  was  demonstrated  many 
times  over  during  the  war  with  Paraguay.  The  chief  need  of  the 
country  is  population,  and  when  the  other  vStates  emulate  the 
example  of  Sao  Paulo  and  invite  and  encourage  emigration 
*  Brazil  will  advance  with  more  rapid  strides  to  the  great  goal  that 
awaits  her. 


THE   FALLS   OK   TOMROS   IN    THE  STATE   OF   RIO. 


262 


CHAPTER    XXIII 
^^  A    City  of  Paradise  " 

RIO  has  one  of  the  most  enviable  positions  in  the  world.  The 
only  other  site  occupied  by  a  city  of  any  magnitude  that 
can  compare  to  it  is  that  of  Sydney,  in  New  South  Wales.  But 
Rio  harbour  has  perhaps  superior  claims  to  loveliness  than  that 
of  Sydney  by  reason  of  the  endless  mountain  peaks  that  en- 
compass its  vast  waters.  The  innumerable  islands  that  ris.e 
up  out  of  the  rippled  surface  are  richly  clad  with  all  the  varieties 
of  a  tropical  vegetation.  The  views  are  endless,  each  seeming 
to  challenge  comparison  with  any  rival.  Language  almost  fails 
to  describe  the  beauty  of  the  scenery.  The  infinite  variety  of 
the  shapes  and  contours  of  its  bays  and  islands  as  seen  from  the 
summit  of  Corcovada  is  an  ever  fruitful  source  of  charm.  Ships 
are  but  mere  dots  upon  its  surface  when  viewed  from  the  distant 
heights  of  the  surrounding  hills,  battleships  but  tiny  specks 
and  smaller  craft  invisible  to  the  naked  eye.  The  harbour  is  one 
of  the  largest  and  safest  in  the  world,  with  an  entrance  nearly 
a  mile  in  width.  This  entrance  lies  between  a  rugged  mountain 
chain  that  encircles  all  the  bay  and  two  forts,  the  Sao  Joa  and  the 
Sante  Cruz,  guard  the  passage  into  these  bewitching  waters.  All 
around  are  the  eternal  hills,  grotesque  and  strangely  shaped, 
and  covered  with  the  lively  greens  of  tropical  verdure.  No  artist's 
eye  is  required  to  appreciate  the  concentrated  splendour  under 
the  changing  lights  and  shadows,  the  marvellous  panorama  is 
veritably  superb,  and  the  islets  in  the  great  bay  might  well  be 
those  imagined  by  Tennyson,  "  Summer  isles  of  Eden  lying  in 
dark  purple  spheres  of  sea."  The  landscapes  could  only  possibly 
be  properly  delineated  by  a  panorama  on  a  gigantic  scale,  but 
even  the  most  perfect  would  fail  to  excite  the  mind  in  any  degree 
approximating  to  the  actuality.    The  subtle  aspects  of  exotic 

26.^ 


A  Tour  through  South  America 

growth  and  vegetation,  the  wild,  disordered  beauty  of  nature's 
arrangements,  the  rich-growing  wilderness  of  tropical  greenery 
that  springs  up  everywhere  is  past  belief.  When  examined  closer, 
the  vegetation  upon  the  islands  and  the  mountain  slopes  is  be- 
wildering in  its  profusion.  The  colour  of  all  nature,  under  the 
tropical  sun  which  shines  through  the  misty  haze  of  the  moist 
heated  atmosphere,  is  full  of  mystery  and  charm.  The  forms 
that  the  giant  trees  assume,  with  innumerable  parasites  cHnging 


ENTRANCE  TO  RIO  HARBOUR. 


to  them,  are  indescribable.  Tall  palms,  feathery  bamboos  wafted 
by  the  gentlest  breezes,  give  a  sense  of  life  even  on  the,  calmest 
days.  Rio  is  a  fitting  mistress  for  an  exuberant  poet,  for  he  could 
never  weary  of  versing  her  charms,  extolHng  her  exceeding  beauty, 
or  revelhng  in  her  enchantment.  Its  shores  and  its  mountain 
slopes,  the  fascination  of  their  varied  aspects,  provoke  his  en- 
thusiasm at  every  turn.  They  possess  wonders  that  can  never 
stale,  charms  that  can  never  tire.  Even  if  this  world-famed 
harbour  is  entered  when  night  has  hidden  the  wonders  of  its  moun- 
tains from  view,  the  scene  is  most  impressive ;  the  countJess  lights 
264 


''A  City  of  Paradise  " 

from  the  houses  that  twinkle  hke  ground  stars  along  the  shores 
of  Rio  and  Nictheroy,  up  the  hill-sides  and  from  the  hundreds 
of  boats  that  lie  scattered  in  the  bay,  form  an  arrangement  of 
singular  loveliness.  The  lights  on  the  shore  follow  the  lines  of 
the  new  esplanade,  Avenida  Beira-mar,  from  the  city  right  out  to 
Botofogo,  and  on  the  other  side  of  the  bay,  those  of  Nictheroy 
twinkle  back  to  them.  Small  steam  launches,  distinguishable 
only  by  their  lights,  rush  about,  and  the  air  is  filled  with  the 
shrieking  of  their  whistles  and  sirens.  The  arrival  of  a  mail 
steamer  at  night  is  the  occasion  for  this  nocturnal  activity  on 
the  part  of  boatmen  ever  on  the  look-out  to  pick  up  a  good 
fare,  and  as  the  mail  steamers  lie  far  out  from  the  landing  stage, 
passengers  have  no  choice  but  to  avail  themselves  of  these  harbour 
pirates,  whose  craft  flock  round  the  gangways  as  soon  as  the  ship 
comes  to  anchor.  Fire  balloons  float  in  the  air,  and  rockets  hiss 
and  leave  their  trail  of  sparks  behind  them,  as  they  rush  on  their 
upward  flight. 

It  was  on  New  Year's  Day,  1502,  that  Goncalo  Coelho  and 
his  crew  sailed  into  this  silent  bay.  Theirs  were  not  the  first  eyes 
to  behold  its  wonders,  for  they  found  its  shores  peopled  by  a 
wild,  savage  race,  who  lived  in  their  rude  villages  set  amongst 
the  fairest  of  surroundings.  The  bay  was  christened  by  the 
Portuguese  "  Rio  de  Janeiro,"  or  "  River  of  January."  This 
name,  which  is  in  no  way  apphcable  to  the  bay,  which  has 
no  river  near  it,  is  a  matter  for  some  surprise.  The  investigations 
of  the  Portuguese  must  have  been  of  a  very  cursory  nature, 
for  they  do  not  seem  to  have  remained  long  enough  to  grasp 
the  extent  of  the  harbour  they  had  discovered.  They  named 
it,  however,  and  the  name  has  stuck,  and  even  the  natives  of 
Rio  to-day  are  called  "  Fluminenses,"  after  the  river  that  does 
not  exist.  The  flat  ground  which  winds  round  the  foot  of  the 
hills,  and  upon  w^hich  the  city  now  stands,  was  formerly  a  man- 
grove swamp,  of  which  nothing  remains  to-day.  The  city  now 
covers  an  area  of  eight  to  nine  square  miles,  and  has  nearly  a 
milhon  inhabitants.  For  centuries  almost,  indeed,  until  the 
beginning  of  the  present  one,  the  city,  although  in  such  beautiful 
surroundings,  was  extremely  dirty  and  badly  laid  out.  The  streets 
were  mean  and  shabby,  for  even  the  fashionable  and  prosperous 
Rua  do  Ouvidor  is  a  mere  alley.  During  the  early  part  of  the 
last  century  the  city  was  proverbial  for  its  filthiness,  but  it 

265 


A  Tour  through  South  America 

gradually  emerged  from  its  grime  and  squalor,  its  streets  were 
paved,  and  its  sanitation  improved.  But  it  was  not  until  the 
beginning  of  the  present  century  that  the  Government  and  people 
awoke  and  with  a  feverish  energy  set  about  rebuilding  and 
beautifying  their  city,  until  it  was  transformed  out  of  all  re- 
cognition. Hundreds  of  narrow,  dirty  streets  have  been  pulled 
down,  to  make  way  for  the  Avenida  Central,  a  long  avenue  of 
fine  buildings  which  would  grace  any  of  the  great  cities  of  the 
modern  world.  Many  of  the  worst  streets  in  the  city  have  been 
swept  away,  and  in  their  place  broad  thoroughfares  full  of  fine. 


THE   SUMMIT  OF   CORCOVADA,    RIO. 

if  somewhat  ornate  buildings,  have  been  laid  down.  To-day 
there  are  miles  of  spacious  boulevards  and  shaded  avenues, 
with  well-paved  asphalt  roads  and  ^^•alks,  all  lit  by  electricity. 
The  magnificent  Avenida  Beira-mar,  which  runs  from  the 
southern  end  of  the  Avenida  Central  to  Botofogo,  a  distance 
of  nearly  five  miles,  has  few  equals  in  the  world.  Along  its 
asphalt  track  countless  motor-cars  race  at  a  breakneck  speed. 
Fine  residences  have  been  erected  along  this  avenue,  the  "  art 
nouveau  "  styles  of  France  and  Germany  being  the  most  popular. 
The  modern  houses  in  the  suburbs  of  Rio  make  up  in  depth  what 
they  lack  in  width,  and  they  have  fine  suites  of  rooms  tastefully 
decorated  and  furnished  with  the  latest  fashions.  The  extra va- 
266 


''  A  City  of  Paradise  " 


gantly  ornamental  frontages  evince  the  Brazilian  taste  for  show 
and  showy  things.  The  town  is  very  straggling  and  winding, 
on  account  of  the  many  hills  that  break  into  the  plateau  on  which 
the  city  stands.  But  the  vistas  and  views  that  the  irregularity 
of  the  plan  introduces  are  an  ample  compensation  for  the  detours 
round  the  buttresses  of  the  mountain  range.  At  the  end  of  the 
Avenida  stands  a  very  graceful  white  building,  the  Monroe  Palace, 
in  which  the  Pan-American  Congress  was  held  in  1906,  and  a 
•Httle  further  down  the  magnificent  Municipal  Theatre,  modelled 
somewhat  on  the 
lines  of  the  Paris 
Opera  House.  The 
best  companies  from 
Paris  and  the  Con- 
tinent find  in  it  a 
stage  and  auditorium 
equal  to  anything 
they  have  been  ac- 
customed to.  Unfor- 
tunately, the  muni- 
cipal authorities  have 
not  equipped  their 
expensively  built 
Opera  Palace  with 
scenery  to  match. 
The  stage  properties 
are  exceedingly  in- 
adequate and  inap- 
propriate for  such  a  theatre,  and  the  companies  who  sometimes 
perform  in  it.  The  stage  is  enormous,  and  the  actors'  dressing  and 
retiring  rooms  lofty  and  well  devised.  The  interior  is  handsomely 
decorated  although  it  is  hardly  equal  to  the  new  theatre  in 
Sao  Paulo,  which  is  the  finest  theatre  in  South  America.  At  the 
other  side  of  the  Avenida  Central  stands  the  new  National 
Library,  \\'hich  contains  a  quarter  of  a  milhon  volumes,  and  next 
to  it  the  Palace  of  Fine  Arts,  both  imposing  buildings.  In  the 
latter  there  is  plenfy  of  room  for  more  works  of  art.  There  are 
in  the  Avenida  many  handsome  buildings  and  many  styles  ; 
the  newspaper  offices  are  conspicuous,  those  of  La  Paiz,  The 
Journal  do  Commercio,  and  the  Journal  do  Brazil  stand  out  promi- 

267 


THE   sn,ENT   BAY, 


A  Tottr  tlirouQii  South  Ainerica 


'<b 


nently  from  other  buildings.  The  large  classic  building  with 
gilded  capitals  at  the  northern  extremity  of  this  avenue,  is 
the  Treasury,  which  w^as  built  to  hold  the  gold  bulHon,  held 
as  guarantee  against  the  paper  currency  of  the  repubhc.  The 
**  Ouvidor,"  which,  although  renamed,  still  goes  by  its  original 
appellation,  is  a  narrow,  crowded  thoroughfare.  Its  shops  are 
among  the  .best  in  the  city,  however,  and  the  fashionable  in- 
habitants throng  its  pavements  in  the  afternoons.  It  holds  much 
the  same  position  in  Rio  as  the  "  Florida "  does  in  Buenos 
Ayres,  although  it  is  not  so  extensive  as  the  latter.  Perhaps 
the  most  striking  feature  in  both  of  these  streets  is  the  enormous 
prices  charged  for  their  wares.  The  fashions  from  Paris  find 
a  ready  sale  in  Rio,  and  the  more  daring  they  are  the  greater 
are  their  chances  of  success.  Nothing  in  a  French  mode  would 
shock  a  "  Fluminense,"  but  they  are  very  particular  in  seeing 
that  their  wives  and  daughters  are  properly  escorted  when  they 
go  abroad.  A  young  lady  would  never  dream  of  walking  or  even 
talking  in  public  to  a  male  friend  of  the  family  unless  a  proper 
chaperon  were  present.  The  old,  almost  Oriental,  customs  of 
Portugal  and  Spain  still  persist,  even  in  their  emancipated 
colonies.  Until  women  are  treated  with  more  respect  and  less 
suspicion  they  will  never  have  the  influence  upon  the  country 
that  they  undoubtedly  possess  in  other  civilised  lands.  The 
social  functions  in  Rio  are  many  and  varied.  During  the  winter 
months  of  June,  July,  and  August  many  dances  and  receptions  are 
given  by  the  different  clubs,  such  as  the  "  Naval,"  "  Military,"  and 
"Engineers,"  as  well  as  by  the  legations  and  by  private  persons. 
These  functions  are  attended  by  all  the  notables,  and  form  the 
principal  entertainments  of  the  city.  Every  night  the  social 
Brazilian  butterflies  of  fashion  have  somewhere  to  go,  and 
the  gatherings  are  very  largely  attended  by  foreigners  and 
visitors.  Birthday  parties  are  really  popular,  and  at  these  crushes 
the  host  is  usually  overwhelmed  with  embraces  and  gifts,  the 
latter  compensating  in  some  measure  for  the  trying  ordeal  of 
standing  for  hours  receiving  speeches  and  replying  to  them. 
The  Brazilian  inherits  from  his  Latin  ancestors  the  gifts  of  a  fluent 
speaker,  and  is  very  ready  to  give  a  free  play  to  this  talent,' 
which  the  slightest  occasion  will  provoke  him  to  display.  At  the 
private  theatricals,  plays  and  playlets  are  generally  given  in 
French  and  children  are  pushed  forward  to  show  their  skill,  which 
268 


''  A  City  of  Paradise  " 

is  warmly  appreciated  by  their  elders.  Enthusiastic  and  unstinted 
praise  is  lavished  upon  their  efforts.  Art,  literature,  music,  and 
the  sciences  find  many  devotees  in  Brazilian  society,  and  even 
the  driest  of  lectures  is  patiently  listened  to  by  large  audiences 
of  both  sexes.  Music  they  love,  but  poetry  is  their  passion.  There 
are  few  amongst  the  educated  classes  in  Rio  who  do  not  at  some 
time  or  other  in  their  lives  compose  odes,  sonnets,  or  lyrics,  and 
feel  prouder  of  their  poetic  achievements  than  of  an\^  other.. 


A   SUBURBAN   STREET,    RIO. 

Almost  every  man  of  the  better  classes  is  a  Dr.,  and  foreigners 
above  the  rank  of  labourers  and  artisans  are  generally 
accepted  as  possessing  this  distinction  at  least.  It  may  be  that 
it  is  only  pohteness  and  not  ignorance  that  bestows  this  title 
upon  strangers,  and  it  should  be  looked  upon  as  an  intended 
compliment.  The  Brazilian  is  warm-li^arted,  generous,  punctilious 
in  the  observances  of  the  most  formal  etiquette,  and  although 
he  can  unbend  with  the  freedom  of  a  schoolboy,  care  must  always 
be  taken  not  to  trespass  upon  this  characteristic,  or  to  wound 
his  inordinate  vanity.  Many  of  them  who  have  travelled  and 
had  the  advantages  of  superior  education  through  intercourse 

269 


A  Tour  through  Sotith  Aftterica 

with  the  pubhc  men  and  leaders  of  society  of  other  countries, 
have  a  greater  dignity  and  wider  sympathies,  and  are  less  likely 
to  make  the  mistakes  of  their  less  fortunate  fellow-countrymen, 
who  cannot  see  their  limitations  or  reahse  their  national  defects. 
The  rapid  reahsation  of  the  wealth  of  the  enormous  States  of 
Brazil  shows  to  most  advantage  in  Rio,  for  the  moneyed  classes, 
governors,  and  politicians  of  all  the  vast  territory  forgather 
in  the  capital.  The  Brazilians  are  impetuous,  and  very  ready 
to  embark  upon  great  undertakings,  many  of  which  are  only 
practicable  in  their  fervid  imaginations.  They  have  been  held 
back  by  the  long,  unprogressive  poHcy  of  their  mother  country 
Portugal  and  the  severe  handicap  of  slavery.  Even  under  the 
Empire  small  progress  was  made,  considering  the  size  of  their 
country  and  the  extensiveness  of  their  resources.  But  since  the 
estabhshment  of.  the  republic,  although  there  have  been  many 
ups  and  downs  and  serious  difficulties  to  encounter,  they  have 
contrived  to  make  great  headway.  The  rejuvenation  of  Rio 
in  the  short  space  of  ten  years  is  sufificient  to  demonstrate  what 
can  be  done  by  a  determined  people,  and  it  is  little  wonder  that 
when  they  regard  the  revolution  they  have  already  wrought, 
they  should  let  their  imaginations  run  to  flights  that  make  an 
ordinary  mind  giddy.  The  governing  classes  have  a  population 
of  half-breeds  to  deal  with,  and  bring  into  line  with  modern 
progress,  and  with  such  material  it  is  diihcult  to  rapidly  accom- 
plish great  things.  The  importation  of  European  labour  may 
help  them  to  carry  many  of  their  cherished  schemes  into  effect, 
but  it  will  take  years  ere  the  immense  stretches  of  unexplored 
territory  are  brought  to  yield  to  the  world  one  tittle  of  their 
indisputable  riches.  The  practical  difficulties  that  the  repubhc 
has  to  face  are  many,  and  the  very  vastness  of  its  sparsely 
populated  territory  is  not  the  least.  The  Federal  Government 
and  those  of  the  autonomous  States  do  not  always  see  eye  to 
eye,  and  the  needs  and  interests  of  the  outlying  States  are  so 
diversified  that  it  requires  great  governmental  wisdom  to  hold 
them  all  together.  That  t^ie  Federal  capital  should  be  the  seat 
of  political  intrigue  is  only  natural,  and  States  that  are  largely 
settled  with  colonists  from  every  part  of  Europe  are  faced  with 
the  conflicting  interests  and  desires  of  neighbours  with  whom 
they  have  little  in  common.  PoHtics  enter  largely  into  the  life 
of  the  Federal  capital.  Ever  since  the  first  Brazilian  Parliament 
270 


''  A  City  of  Paradise  " 

met  there  in  1826,  under  the  Empire  of  Pedro  I,  Liberal  ideas 
emanating  from  the  Parhaments  of  the  world  have  met  with 
the  approval  of  the  best  intellects  of  the  capital.  Republican 
tendencies  were  fostered  by  men  whose  eyes  were  turned  upon 
the  trend  of  poHtics  in  Europe  and  the  United  States,  and  the 
newly  forming  republics  of  South  America.  Revolutions  and 
revolts  occurred  in  the  different  States  with  an  alarming  fre- 
quency. Wars  with  neighbouring  republics  cost  the  Federal 
exchequer   many   millions,    and   held   back   industrial   progress. 


AVENIDA   BEIRA-MAR,    RIO. 

The  emancipation  of  the  slaves  was  no  more  popular  with  the 
planters  and  agriculturists  in  Brazil  than  it  was  with  the  same 
classes  in  the  Southern  States  of  North  America,  or  in  the  West 
Indian  Islands,  and  it  took  time  to  bring  about  such  a  drastic 
economic  change.  The  Chamber  of  Deputies  was  formerly  the 
old  palace  of  the  Emperor,  and  stands  near  the  Caes  Pharoux. 
It  is  not  a  pretentious  building,  nor  are  the  appointments  such 
as  might  be  expected,  but  a  new  ParHament  House  is  projected. 
The  entrance  or  antechamber  is  at  the  top  of  an  old  mahogany 
staircase,  and  the  walls  are  covered  with  photographs  more  or 
less  faded  of  deputies  past  and  present.    An  old-fashioned  carpet 

271 


A  Tour  throtigh  South  America 

covers  the  floor  of  this  landing,  which  gives  entrance  to  the 
chamber  and  to  the  "  Cabinete  do  Presidente."  The  deputies 
pass  through  a  small  cloak-room  to  the  floor  of  the  House,  a 
square  chamber  with  seats  and  benches  arranged  in  a  semicircle. 
Upon  a  raised  platform  facing  the  deputies  sits  the  Presi- 
dent of  the  chamber,  a  briUiant  green  curtain  trimmed  with 
yellow,  the  national  colours,  forming  a  background.  Electric 
fans  whir  on  either  side.  Dark-coloured  porters  and  messen- 
gers walk  in  and  out,  and  seem  at  times  to  outnumber  the 
deputies.  Outside  in  another  antechamber,  crowds  of  citizens 
w^ait  patiently  to  interview  the  deputies  on  different  sub- 
jects, but  generally  to  obtain  some  favour.  The  eloquence 
of  the  deputies  is  their  strong  point,  and  the  speeches  are  long, 
and  delivered  with  great  vehemence.  Men  of  all  grades  of  colour 
sit  cheek  by  jowl,  very  reminiscent  of  some  country  court  house 
in  a  West  Indian  Island.  The  Senate  Chamber  is  situated  some 
distance  away  on  one  side  of  the  beautiful  "  Praca  RepubUca," 
the  finest  garden  in  this  lovely  city.  The  palace  of  the  President, 
formerly  the  Palacite  do  Friburgo,  stands  in  a  broad  thoroughfare, 
RuaCattete,  to  the  north  of  the  city,  and  although  it  has  a  beautiful 
garden  at  the  side  and  back  of  it,  it  is  not  very  imposing.  On 
the  balustrade  at  the  top  are  four  stone  eagles  with  outstretched 
wings,  otherwise  the  building  offers  no  particular  features.  Inside 
the  waiting-rooms  are  crowded  on  audience  days  with  every 
class  of  the  inhabitants,  who  patiently  wait  their  turn  and  chances 
to  interview  the  head  of  the  Government.  The  ancient  palace  of 
Itamarity,  where  the  Minister  of  Foreign  Affairs  resides  when  in 
Rio,  is  modest  and  unattractive  externally,  and  does  not  indicate 
in  any  way  the  magnificence  of  the  interior,  admirably  fitted  for 
the  reception  and  entertainment  of  distinguished  diplomats 
and  visitors.  It  contains  a  ballroom  decorated  with  hangings 
and  upholsteries  of  emerald-green  and  gold,  a  reception- 
room  carried  out  in  yellow,  another  in  rose  colour,  whilst  a 
corridor  running  along  the  outside  of  the  fine  hbrary  overlooks 
a  garden  where  palms  and  exotic  flowers  abound.  The  late  Baron 
do  Rio  Branco  had  in  this  palace  many  and  valuable  souvenirs 
of  his  travels  and  illustrious  acquaintances,  amongst  them 
a  large  seascape  painted  by  the  unfortunate  King  Carlos  of 
Portugal,  who  presented  it  to  the  "  Baron."  The  Baron  de  Rio 
Branco  was  for  many  years  an  idol  of  the  people  of  Rio,  and 
272 


''A  City  of  Paradise'' 

enjoyed  the  reputation  amongst  them  of  being  a  great. authority 
upon  all  matters  pertaining  to  foreign  affairs.  He  was  perhaps 
one  of  the  few  men  of  his  time  who  looked  his  part  to  perfection, 
bearing  a  sHght  physical  resemblance  to  the  famous  Bismarck. 
He  held  aloof  from  the  internal  politics  of  his  country,  and  for 
twelve  years  held  his  office  in  spite  of  changes  of  Government 
and  Presidents.  His  aloofness  from  the  mob  of  politicians,  whose 
clamourings  and  wranglings  he  seemed  to  despise,  placed  him 


THE   SUGAR-LOAF   BY   NIGHT,    RIO. 


in  a  pecuHar  position,  whilst  his  efforts  to  enlarge  his  country's 
dominions  and  strengthen  her  army  won  him  the  admiration 
and  gratitude  of  all  classes.  He  tried  to  establish  a  "  German 
military  mission  "  to  Brazil,  and  although  he  was  unsuccessful, 
his  advocacy  of  German  instructors  for  the  army  may  still  bear 
fruit.  That  the  army  and  navy  of  Brazil  require  to  be  imbued 
with  a  stronger  sense  of  military  duty  than  they  at  present  possess 
is  amply  exemplified  by  the  many  acts  of  insubordination  they 
have  been  guilty  of  in  recent  years. 

The  notable  improvements  in  the  Federal  capital  were  carried 

out  under  President  Penna.    He  was  fortunate  in  having  some 

s  273 


A  Tour  through  South  America 

of  the  ablest  men  in  Brazil  in  his  ministry,  who,  with  the  assistance 
of  the  best  engineers  and  architects  in  the  country,  set  about 
the  reconstruction  of  the  city.  Br.  Lauro  Muller  (the  present 
Minister  for  Foreign  Affairs)  was  responsible  for  the  general  plan 
of  the  improvements,  and  his  scheme  was  worked  out  in  detail 
by  Dr.  Paul  de  Frontin,  one  of  the  most  talented  and  all-round 
engineers  in  the  repubhc,  and  at  present  the  General  Manager 
of  the  Central  Railway,  the  largest  in  Brazil.  Dr.  Frontin  has 
had  a  career  crowded  with  many  successes,  and  he  still  finds  time 


A   BIT  OF   RIO  HARBOUR. 


to  fill  the  professional  chair  of  mechanics  and  astronomy  in  the 
National  Gymnasium.  He  has  been  associated  with  nearly  all 
the  big  engineering  schemes  in  the  republic  of  recent  years, 
and  has  built  canals,  railways,  bridges,  waterworks,  and  docks, 
as  well  as  opening  out  the  avenues  of  the  capital,  which  necessi- 
tated the  removal  of  hills  that  to  many  would  have  been  mountains. 
He  has  done  much  to  make  the  new  Rio  almost  worthy  of 
its  magnificent  setting.  In  Rio  the  automobile  has  almost 
supplanted  the  "  Tilburies,"  those  curious,  old-fashioned  gigs, 
capable  of  holding  only  one  passenger,  who  sits  beside  the 
274 


''A  City  of  Paradise 

driver,  a  few  specimens  of  which  may  still  be  seen  plying  for  hire. 
Electric  tramways  (called,  curiously  enough,  the  "  Bond," 
by  the  natives,  who  associate  them  with  the  bonds  that  were 
issued  for  the  capital  of  the  first  companies)  run  through  the 
winding  city  and  distant  suburbs.  These  tramways  are  run 
by  the  Rio  de  Janeiro  Light  and  Power  Company,  which  owns 
extensive  concessions  and  properties  throughout  the  State,  in- 


THE  GAVEA,    RIO. 


eluding  some  twenty-two  miles  of  territory  on  either  bank  of 
the  Parahyba  River,  seventy-five  miles  distant  from  the  city 
of  Rio,  and  an  installation  fifty  miles  from  the  capital,  where  the 
Lages  River  passes  through  a  narrow  ravine  about  three  hundred 
feet  wide,  betwixt  solid  rock.  Here  a  dam  has  been  constructed, 
so  that  the  waters  above  are  formed  into  a  lake  fifteen  miles 
long  by  some  seven  or  eight  miles  wide.  From  this  huge  reser- 
voir the  water  is  conducted  a  distance  of  one  and  a  half  miles 
through  steel  tubes  to  a  power-house  some  thousand  feet  below 

275 


A  Tour  through  South  America 

in  elevation,  providing  an  enormous  power  for  the  generation 
of  electricity  both  for  motor  and  lighting  purposes  in  the  city. 

The  cars  run  out  to  the  Botanical  Gardens,  among  the  most 
beautiful  in  the  world,  and  much  favoured  by  climate.  As  they 
are  approached  tall  palms  are  seen  that  mark  their  boundary  near 
the  border  of  the  great  Lake  Rodrigo  do  Frietas,  a  curious  piece 
of  water  separated  from  the  Atlantic  by  a  narrow  strip  of  land 
over  which  great  billows  break  during  a  storm.  The  gardens  cover 
two  thousand  acres.  The  avenue  of  royal  palms  is  half  a  mile  in 
length,  and  gives  a  strongly  marked  character  to  these  gardens. 
Fountains  and  arbours,  rustic  bridges  and  ponds,  rivulets  and 
waterfalls  add  to  the  charm  of  this  sylvan  spot.  At  the  foot  of 
the  hill  grow  great  clumps  of  bamboos,  whose  trembling  leaves 
bend  down  the  pliant  stems  till  they  meet  and  form  an  arch 
overhead.  The  bases  of  these  stems  have  grown  to  great  pro- 
portions, and  are  so  close  together  that  they  form  an  almost 
solid  mass.  Narrow  shafts  of  light  stream  through  the  roof  of 
leaves,  and  pattern  the  path  with  many  curious  forms.  An  in- 
fmite  variety  of  ferns  abound  of  lovely  shades  of  green  and  beauti- 
ful design.  But  for  the  incessant  buzzings  of  mosquitoes  and  flies 
the  spot  would  be  perfect.  Lizards  dart  across  the  ground  and 
birds  flit  twittering  through  the  trees,  and  in  the  sparkling 
sunhght,  brilliantly  coloured  humming-birds  flutter  round  strange 
flowers.  Butterflies  soar  high  and  so  rapidly  that  they  can  easily 
be  mistaken  for  birds.  Near  by  a  small  waterfall  that  makes 
rippling  music  stands  a  tall  palm  protected  by  raihngs  ;  it  is  the 
parent  of  all  the  palms  in  Rio,  and  sprang  from  a  seed  planted 
in  1808  by  Joao  VI,  whose  bust  stands  on  a  pedestal  in  close 
proximity. 

Another  favourite  car  ride  takes  one  to  Tijuca,  a  suburb 
situated  six  miles  distant  on  a  beautifully  wooded  hill,  from 
which  extensive  views  of  the  cit}^  and  harbour  are  obtainable. 
This  suburb  contains  many  summer  residences,  and  abounds 
with  beautiful  walks  and  sylvan  paths  twining  amidst  cascades 
that  sparkle  in  the  sunlight. 

Other  suburbs,  Copacabana,  Ipanema,  anjd  Leme,  outside  the 
harbour  and  on  the  Atlantic  seaboard,  are  also  connected  by  car 
routes  with  the  centre  of  the  city,  and  are  popular  holiday  resorts. 


276 


THE   BOTANICAL  GARDENS. 


CHAPTER    XXIV 
Vianna 

AMONGST  the  hundreds  of  islands  in  the  Bay  of  Rio,  there 
are  two  which  have  special  claims  upon  the  attention  of 
visitors  to  Rio,  as  w^ell  as  on  the  gratitude  of  all  good  BraziHans. 
Vianna  and  Santa  Cruz  are  two  islands  lying  in  the  north- 
west corner  of  the  bay,  about  an  hour's  run  from  the  Caes  Pharoux, 
the  picturesque  landing-stage  and  promenade  of  Rio.  The  journey 
across  the  bay  is  full  of  interest ;  indeed  there  is  not  a  nook, 
corner,  or  islet  of  the  great  harbour  that  does  not  call  forth  some 
expression  of  admiration,  surprise,  or  pleasure.  The  surrounding 
hills  are  ever  changing  in  expression,  and  give  a  sense  of  security 
and  protection  to  the  shipping,  large  and  small,  that  can  never 
crowd  the  vast  waters.  Past  the  Islas  de  Cobras,  wdth  its  naval 
barracks  perched  high  up  on  a  rocky  base  of  grass-grown  rock, 
the  town  grows  smaller  and  smaller,  until  its  wharves  and  build- 
ings are  lost  in  the  distant  haze.  When  the  island  of  Vianna 
is  reached,  further  surprise  is  in  store  for  the  visitor.  Its  owner, 
Senr.  Antonio  Lage,  is  the  descendant  of  a  French  family,  and 
calls  himself  a  Brazilian,  but  he  is  really  a  cosmopolitan  who 
can  speak  perfectly  at  least  three  languages,  and  who  has  re- 
lationships with  distinguished  foreigners  in  many  lands.  His 
life  story  is  a  Brazilian  romance.  His  grandfather  bought  the 
island  of  Vianna  in  the  harbour  in  1856,  to  obtain  the  stone 
to  build  up  warehouses  on  another  island,  Enxadas,  which 
he  had  acquired  in  1836  from  the  friars,  whose  convent  still 
exists  upon  the  island.  In  the  warehouses  he  built,  his  son 
carried  on  the  business  of  bonded  warehouseman.  Owing  to 
the  failure  of  a  banking  firm  in  1864  the  warehouse  business 
w^as  involved,  and  but  for  the  intervention  of  an  English  house, 
Stephen  Busk  and  Co.,  the  Lages'  business  must  have  ceased. 
278 


Viannd 

Through  this  assistance  they  were  able  to  carry  on.  They  rented 
the  island  and  kept  the  business  going  until  1881.  In  the  following 
year  the  company  of  Lage  Bros,  was  formed,  and  they  came  over 
to  Vianna,  their  former  quarry,  and  started  operations.  That 
was  thirty  years  ago.  At  first  the  island  was  used  as  a  coal  depot 
and  bonded  warehouse,  and  although  some  changes  were  made, 
it  was  not  until  after  the  declaration  of  the  republic  that  things 
began  to  move.  The  constitution  of  the  United  States  of  Brazil, 
in  Article  13  of  the  first  title,  enacts  that  "  the  rights  of  legislation 
on  the  part  of  the  Union  and  of  the  States  in  regard  to  railways 
and  the  navigation  of  inland  waters  shall  be  regulated  by  Federal 


END   OF   SANTA   CRUZ. 


enactment  "  and  that  "  the  coastwise  trade  shall  be  carried  on  in 
national  bottoms  only."  Lage  Bros,  entered  into  negotiations  with 
Lamport  and  Holt,  who  at  that  time  had  a  fleet  of  coastal  steamers 
running  in  the  Brazils,  and  purchased  their  steamers.  A  company 
was  formed,  which  began  navigating  on  a  small  scale.  They  started 
with  four  steamers,  and  when  the  revolution  broke  out  in  1893  their 
fleet  had  increased  to  eighteen,  two  of  which  were  express  steamers, 
which  ran  between  Rio  and  Rio  Grande  de  Sul  (Port  Alegre), 
making  the  journey  in  forty-eight  hours.  The  new  line  was 
hardly  estabhshed  when  the  political  upheaval  in  1893  disturbed 
all  the  commercial  activities  of  the  new  republic.  The  first  Presi- 
dent, General  Deodoro,  was  driven  from  power,  and  great  unrest 

279 


A  Tour  through  South  America 

prevailed  in  Rio.  The  next  President,  Floriano  Peixoto,  was 
in  his  turn  intrigued  against,  and  the  navy  fell  into  the  hands 
of  the  rebels,  and  poor  Rio  had  to  endure  the  ignominy  of  a  six 
months'  intermittent  bombardment.  The  Government,  in  order 
to  prevent  fresh  sources  of  strength  falling  into  the  hands  of  the 
rebels,  ordered  one  of  the  Lage  express  steamers,  which  was 
then  lying  in  dry  dock,  to  be  burnt,  and  purchased  the  other 


AN   OLD   CHURCH    NEAR    RIO. 


for  transport  purposes.  During  this  trying  time  the  island  of 
Vianna  w^as  not  left  unmolested  by  the  rebel  navy.  They  had 
been  accustomed  to  go  to  Vianna  for  repairs,  and  they  knew  how 
well  the  warehouses  upon  it  were  stocked  with  stores  and  pro- 
visions for  the  coastal  service.  They  were  not  long  in  taking 
possession  of  it,  and  were  well  set  up  with  all  they  required  to 
keep  them  going.  The  greatest  difficulty  the  revolutionaries 
had  to  contend  against  was  the  dearth  of  fresh  water.  They 
were  fortunate  in  getting  possession  of  the  water-boats,  and  with 
280 


Vianna 

these  they  stole  up  the  bay,  and  refilled  from  the  streams  that 
trickle  down  from  the  mountains.  They  next  captured  all  the 
Lages'  steamers  that  were  in  the  bay,  and  found  on  them  coal 
and  further  stores.  In  order  to  displace  the  rebels  from  the  island, 
which  was  now  their  base,  guns  w^ere  taken  up  the  heights  of  a 
mountain  on  the  mainland  opposite,  and  a  fort  was  established, 
"which  bombarded  Vianna  for  nearly  three  months,  the  rebels 
taking  refuge  behind  the  hill  which  stands  upon 'the  island. 
It   was   not   until   the   Government   succeeded   in   placing  guns 


THE'SHORE,    SANTA    CRUZ. 

upon  all  the  surrounding  heights  that  the  rebels  were  brought 
to  bay  in  March,  1894.  Vianna  suffered  severely  during  the 
long  struggle,  and  its  owner  nearly  as  much,  for  it  w^as  not  until 
September  of  the  same  year  that  he  got  possession  of  his  wrecked 
island,  and  found  the  machine  shops,  stores,  and  dock  smashed 
to  pieces  by  shot  and  shell.  He  started  immediately  to  repair 
his  loss,  and  the  only  compensation  he  received  w^as  the  loan  of 
7000  contas  of  reis  at  7  per  cent  interest  from  the  Government. 
For  twelve  months  business  had  been  at  a  standstill,  and  the  fleet 
either  in  the  hands  of  the  rebels  or  held  up  in  distant  ports,  the 

281 


A  Tour  through  South  A^nerica 

expense  of  paying  the  crews,  port  charges,  running  on  all  the 
time. 

Such  was  the  stormy,  troubled  sea  that  the  new  shipping 
company  had  to  weather.  That  the}^  did  so  was  due  to  the  dogged 
persistence  of  Antonio  Lage,  w^hose  enterprise  and  abihty  have 
brought   about   the   present   prosperity   of   the   compan}^    The 


SANTA    CRUZ. 


line  now  possesses  nineteen  steamers,  of  which  four  carry  passen- 
gers as  well  as  cargo,  eight  are  cargo  boats  only,  while  seven 
are  new  passenger  boats  of  over  3000  tons,  with  all  the  latest 
improvements,  twin  screwy  freezing  chambers,  and  having  a 
speed  of  over  twelve  knots.  They  are  all  fitted  with  Marconi 
apparatus,  and  the  many  comforts  which  passengers  travelling 
upon  modern  vessels  are  accustomed  to.  Seven  more  ships  of 
282 


Vianna 

this  class  are  being  built  to  continue  the  coastal  trade  right  up 
the  Amazon  to  Manaos.  From  1894  the  rebuilding  of  the  destroyed 
island  has  gone  steadily  on.  Each  yeaf  additions  have  been 
made,  and  the  great  rock  which  covered  the  larger  part  has  been 
cut  through  to  form  a  dry  dock.     The  material  removed  was 


SANTA    CRUZ. 

utilised  to  extend  the  shore  and  circumference  of  this  island,  and 
its  contiguous  neighbour,  Santa  Cruz,  which  Sen.  Lage  purchased 
in  1902.  Large  and  spacious  stores  have  been  erected,  with  machine 
shops,  bonded  warehouses,  foundries,  boiler-makers'  shop,  electric 
power  station,  and  shipbuilding  yard,  houses  for  the  employees, 
and  all  the  buildings  necessary  for  a  growing  shipbuilding  and 

283 


A  Tour  through  South  America 

repairing  yard.  The  island  of  Santa  Cruz  is  a  little  paradise,  and 
is  now  connected  with  the  industrial  Vianna  by  an  imposing 
bridge.  It  has  been  laid  out  as  a  large  park,  and  upon  it  are 
beautiful  houses  which  its  owner  has  built  for  the  members 
of  his  family.  These  houses  are  in  the  American  colonial  style, 
luxuriously  appointed,  and  lacking  in  no  comfort  which  the 
furnishing  \^•orld  can  supply.  From  the  windows  and  balconies 
magnificent  views  of  the  expansive  bay  are  obtained,  while  the 
surroimding  grounds  are  filled  with  many  varieties  of  exotic 
shrubs  and  trees.  Flowers,  fruit,  and  kitchen  gardens  flourish 
on  Santa  Cruz  in  ordered  beauty,  and  from  every  spot  upon  the 
island  vistas  and  views  of  astonishing  loveliness  meet  the  eye. 
Nature  and  art  combine  to  make  an  entrancing  island,  unsurpassed 
by  any,  even  in  this  silvery  bay  so  famous  for  the  beauty  of  its 
shores.  Birds,  native  and  foreign,  of  many  brilHant  hues,  flit 
unmolested  through  its  trees  and  along  its  shores ;  their  confidence 
in  the  protecting  care  lavished  upon  them  holds  them  to  a  spot 
where  they  find  perfect  freedom  and  plentiful  provision  for 
all  their  needs.  Upon  gravelled  paths,  on  lawns  of  softest  green, 
water  and  grain  are  daily  spread  for  their  repast  by  thoughtful 
hands.  So  tame  are  many  of  these  birds  that  they  respond  to 
the  call  of  their  master's  voice,  and  even  fly  in  through  the  open 
windows  and  perch  on  chairs  and  tables.  In  the  early  morning 
the  mingled  song  of  myriad  songsters  heralds  the  dawn.  In  the 
shade  of  leafy  mango  trees  the  woodpigeon  coos  his  tender  notes. 
The  air  is  alive  with  melody.  The  whir  of  wings,  and  the  rusthng 
of  the  dew-drenched  grass  as  the  tame  deer  bounds  along,  vary 
the  sounds.  The  warm  light  of  the  new-risen  sun  tinges  all  objects 
with  the  mellowest  hues.  The  greens  are  softer  in  the  morning 
fight ;  the  thousand  distant  isles  and  hills  He  veiled  in  the  melting 
mists  ;  the  colonial  architecture  of  the  dwellings  on  the  island 
imparts  an  air  of  homely  comfort  to  the  scene — an  air  that  most 
tropical  scenery  generally  lacks.  The  trailing  and  climbing  flowers 
that  hang  from  the  balconies  and  walls  call  up  thoughts  of 
England.  The  gardeners  who  tend  with  care  the  lawns  and  walks 
are  early  astir,  and  accomplish  much  of  their  day's  work  before 
the  sun's  rays  gain  their  full  strength.  The  sound  of  voices 
and  the  faint  echoes  of  hundreds  of  busy  hammers  in  the  sheds 
upon  the  neighbouring  island  blend  with  the  music  of  the  birds. 
Nature,  art,  and  industry  are  brought  into  closest  contact  upon 
284 


Vianna 

the  twin  islets  of  Vianna  and  Santa  Cruz.  Order,  taste,  and  industry 
h^ve  transformed  one  of  them  from  an  overgrown,  chaotic,  man- 
grove fringed  wilderness  into  an  Eden.  A  Chinese  writer  who,  cen- 
turies ago,  in  answer  to  the  question  "  What  is  it  we  seek  in  the 
possession  of  a  pleasure  garden?  "  said,  "  The  art  of  laying  out 
gardens  consists  in  an  endeavour  to  combine  cheerfulness  of  aspect, 
luxuriance  of  growth,  shade,  solitude,  and  repose,  in  such  a  manner 
that  the  senses  may  be  deluded  by  an  imitation  of  nature. 
Diversity,  which  is  the  main  advantage  in  a  judicious  choice 
of  soil,  an  alternation  of  chains  of  hills  and  valleys,  gorges,  brooks, 
and  lakes  covered  with  aquatic  plants.  Symmetry  is  wearying, 
and  ennui  and  disgust  will  soon  be  excited  in  a  garden  where 
eyery  part  betrays  contrival  art."  Had  the  writer  of  these  lines 
seen  Santa  Cruz  as  it  is  to-day  he  would  have  been  satisfied  that 
it  fulfilled  all  the  requirements  necessary  to  a  perfect  garden. 


SANTA   CRUZ. 


285 


CHAPTER    XXV 

Some  Excursions  from  Rio 

THE  vast  territories  which  amalgamated  to  form  the  United 
States  of  Brazil  suffer  more  than  anything  else  from  the  lack 
of  that  railway  communication  which  has  opened  up  the  beauties 
and  resources  of  the  country  immediately  surrounding  the  Federal 
capital. 

The  first  railway  in  Brazil  was  due  to  the  enterprise  of  the 
Viscount  de  Maua,  and  the  line  was  originally  named  after  him, 
as  was  the  town  at  the  northern  end  of  the  Bay  of  Rio  from  which 
it  started.  Originally  this  line  extended  only  from  Maua  to  the 
foot  of  the  mountain  below  Petropolis,  but  to-day  it  passes 
through  that  town,  and  extends  far  beyond  it,  having  developed 
into  the  vast  railway  system  known  as  the  Leopoldina.  No 
longer  need  intending  passengers  travel  by  boat  across  the  extreme 
hngth  of  the  bay,  for  the  line  from  Entroncamento  to  Maua 
is  now  a  mere  branch  of  the  main  line  which,  starting  from  the 
capital  itself,  extends  northwards  far  into  the  interior.  At  a 
distance  of  about  thirty  miles  from  the  terminus  in  Rio  and  at 
an  elevation  of  three  thousand  feet  above  the  sea-level  but 
backed  by  higher  hills  and  mountains  covered  with  dense  woods, 
stands  the  picturesquely  beautiful  city  of  Petropolis.  Many 
years  ago  this  place  was  a  mere  colony  of  agricultural  Germans, 
but  its  ideal  situation  marked  it  out  as  a  summer  resort  for  the 
wealthiest  Brazilians,  and  when  the  capital  was  ravaged  by 
continual  epidemics  of  yellow  fever  it  gained  in  popularity  by 
the  permission  granted  to  the  foreign  Legations  by  their  home 
Governments  to  take  up  their  residence  in  this  salubrious  spot. 
Ever  since  for  six  months  of  the  year  it  has  been  the  centre  of 
the  social  Hfe  of  the  republic,  for  society  and  fashion  invariably 
follow  the  Diplomatic  Corps.  The  Emperor  built  himself  a  magni- 
286 


Some  Excti7'sioiis  from  Rio 


ficent  palace  in  the  place,  setting  an  example  which  was  speedily 
followed,  until  to-day  it  is  a  collection  of  noble  and  imposing 
mansions,  surrounded  by  the  most  exquisite  gardens  and  grounds. 
The  route  to  this  garden-Hke  mountain  city  discloses  a  continual 
panorama  of  tropical  scenery,  and  the  profusion  of  the  vegetation 
on  the  mountain 
slopes  is  indescrib- 
able. As  the  train 
climbs  the  steep 
gradients,  endless 
and  ever  changing 
prospects  meet  the 
eye,  and  the  com- 
paratively short  jour- 
ney furnishes  an 
excellent  idea  of  the 
characteristic  scenery 
of  the  environs  of 
the  finest  harbour  in 
the  world.  With  the 
improved  health  con- 
ditions in  Rio  the 
season  in  Petropolis 
is  gradually  becom- 
ing shorter  and 
shorter,  and  there 
is  a  probability  that 
the  Legations  may 
again  take  up  per- 
manent residence  in 
the  capital,  but  the 
mountain  city  will 
never  fail  to  attract 

lovers  of  the  beautiful.  Another  important  branch  of  the 
Leopoldina  Railway  has  its  terminus  in  the  State  capital 
Nictheroy,  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  harbour  from  Rio.  This 
line  branches  at  Porto  das  Gaixas  into  two  great  arms,  which 
embrace  the  whole  of  the  eastern  portion  of  the  State,  and 
connect  it  with  Victoria,  the  capital  of  the  adjoining  State  of 
Espirito  Santo. 

287 


AT  THE  BACK  OF  THE  ORGAN  MOUNTAINS. 


A  Tour  through  South  America 

On  one  branch  of  this  hne  is  situated  the  important  city  of 
Nova  Friburgo,  the  oldest  immigrant  settlement  in  Brazil ; 
for  as  far  back  as  the  beginning  of  the  last  century  this  well- 
chosen  spot  was  colonised  by  a  party  of  1700  Swiss  refugees  from 
Fribourg. 

The  town  stands  on  the  northern  slope  of  the  Mar  mountain, 
known  as  the  Boa  Vista,  on  account  of  the  sweeping  view  which 
is  obtained  from  this  point.  Although  not  so  elaborate  as  Pe- 
tropolis  in  respect  of  buildings,  nor  so  favoured  by  the  aristocratic 


A    ROAD   AMONGST   THE    H 


element,  Fribourg  has,  if  anything,  a  finer  climate,  and  is  blessed 
with  a  rich  and  fertile  soil  that  has  brought  it  much  prosperity. 
Again  the  difficulties  of  the  steep  ascents  have  been  overcome 
by  enterprising  engineering  feats  which  have  linked  up  this 
coffee  district  with  the  capital  some  four  thousand  feet  lower  in 
level. 

Perhaps  the  most  extraordinary  enterprise  of  modern  times 
is  that  undertaken  by  the  State  of  Minas-Geracs  in  the  building 
of  their  new  capital  of  Bello  Horizonte.  The  State  of  Minas 
is  the  greatest  mineral  district  in  Brazil;  it  has  been  said 
of  it  that  "  what  doesn't  hide  gold  contains  iron,  what  doesn't 
288 


Some  Excursions  from  Rio 

contain  coal  spreads  diamonds."  The  journey  through  the  country, 
which  is  accompHshed  over  the  Great  Central  Railway,  is  singu- 
larly interesting,  and  the  nights  spent  in  the  sleeping  cars  are 
pleasantly  cool  after  the  heat  of  the  day.  The  hilly  country  is 
well  covered  with  trees  and  watered  with  rivers,  and  is  admirably 
adapted  for  colonies  of  European  settlers.    Gold  and  diamond 


THE   SQUARE   OF  TIRADENTES,   OURO   PRETO. 

mines  have  already  yielded  vast  riches,  and  with  the  increasing 
facihties  for  traveUing  that  the  railway  systems  are  opening-  up, 
still  greater  are  in  store  for  the  State.  Ouro  Preto,  the  old  capital, 
the  famous  Villa  Rica  of  former  times,  lies  on  a  hill-side  at  an  eleva- 
tion of  one  thousand  feet  above  sea-level.  It  is  a  picturesque,  ram- 
bling old  city,  with  tortuous  streets  running  down  its  steep  inclines, 
and  many  old  churches  and  convents  built  in  the  old  colonial 
style.   In  striking  contrast  with  the  ancient  capital  is  Bello  Hori- 

T  289 


A  Tour  through  South  America 

zonte,  the  new  one,  planned,  laid  out,  and  built  within  the  last 
few  years.  The  new  capital  is  about  a  six-hours'  railway  journey 
from  Rio,  and  is  laid  out  on  an  ambitious  scale  on  a  beautiful  site 
surrounded  by  gently  rising  hills  with  broad  avenues  and  streets, 
parks  and  gardens,  Senate  Houses,  Government  buildings,  a 
splendid  presidential  palace,  a  fine  theatre,  hospitals,  schools, 
and  every  possible  requirement  for  a  prosperous  and  flourishing 
city.  Rows  of  trees  line  the  broad  avenues.  Houses,  mostly  of 
one  story,  await  the  population  that  has  not  yet  arrived  to  occupy 


NEAR    THE   SAN    FRANCISCO    RIVER. 


all  the  vast  accommodation  that  has  been  provided.  Such  is 
Bello  Horizonte,  the  new  capital  of  Minas-Geraes,  a  State 
which  occupies  an  area  of  over  220,000  square  miles  without 
a  seaboard,  but  which  is  perhaps  greater  in  natural  wealth  than 
any  other  State  in  the  Brazilian  Federation.  Its  development 
has  been  marked  by  all  those  characteristics  that  pertain  to  the 
history  of  countries  where  the  discovery  of  the  precious  metals 
has  attracted  adventurous  spirits  upon  fortune  bent.  From 
the  earhest  days  of  Portuguese  exploration  exaggerated  rumours 
of  the  fabulous  wealth  of  the  interior  of  the  South  American 
continent  have  been  in  circulation,  and  have  stimulated  the  or- 
290 


Some  Excursioiis  from  Rio 

ganisation  of  expeditions  for  the  purpose  of  exploring  and  pros- 
pecting the  high  tableland  which  lies  beyond  the  Serra  do  Mar. 
In  one  respect  the  early  history  of  Minas-Geraes  resembles  that 
of  the  State  of  Sao  Paulo,  inasmuch  as  it  is  connected  with  the 
story  of  a  marooned  sailor  who  penetrated  to  the  interior,  mated 
with  the  daughter  of  an  Indian  chief,  and  reached  high  position 
and  power  in  the  tribe. 


ABOVE   THE    FALLS   AT   TOMBOS. 

The  Carangola  River  about  4300  miles  from  Rio. 

The  Indians  themselves  set  little  store  upon  the  gold  and 
precious  stones,  but  finding  they  were  so  much  prized  by  their 
white  masters,  did  not  hesitate  to  please  these  latter  by  painting 
in  most  glowing  terms  the  richness  of  the  country  in  these  treasures. 
Further,  their  own  internal  feuds  prompted  them  to  encourage 
the  expeditions  of  the  new-comers,  the  native  tribes  thinking 
thereby   to   regain    possession    of   territories   from   which   they 

291 


A  Tour  through  South  America 


had  been  expelled  by  enemies,  and  little  realising  that  they 
were  merely  placing  on  their  necks  a  fresh  yoke,  and  paving 
the  way  to  occupation  of  their  country  by  white  invaders. 
One  of  the  earhest  organised  expeditions  was  that  in  1674,  under 
the  leadership  of  Fernao  Dias,  who  had  been  rewarded  in  advance 

by  the  Portuguese  Govern- 
ment by  being  created 
Governor  of  a  district  which 
he  was  still  to  discover,  Dias, 
of  Portuguese  extraction  and 
noble  birth,  had  already 
distinguished  himself  by  con- 
quering and  subjecting  as  his 
slaves  the  Goianas,  one  of 
the  most  powerful  of  the 
Indian  tribes.  Feared  but 
not  disliked  by  his  slaves,  he 
could  always  command  a 
large  following,  and  set  out 
from  Taubate  with  a  con- 
siderable army,  crossing  the 
Mantiqueira  and  estabhshing 
at  SerraNegra  the  first  regular 
settlement  in  the  territory, 
which  was  afterwards  to  be 
known  as  Minas-Geraes,  A 
second  settlement  was 
founded  at  St.  Anna;  and 
pushing  still  further,  in  spite 
of  difficulties  and  dangers, 
this  intrepid  leader  reached 
St.  Joao  do  Sumidouro,  which 
became  the  central  point  for 
future  operations.  For  three 
years  he  held  his  own  against  opposition  and  intrigue,  prospecting 
the  region  of  Rio  das  Vellias,  where  he  ultimately  succumbed 
to  fever.  But  it  was  with  the  discovery  of  gold  at  Ribeiras  Carmo 
and  Ouro  Preto  that  the  real  development  of  the  State  commenced, 
and  by  the  year  1700  a  large  number  of  mines,  the  property  of 
their  discoverers,  were  in  working  order.  The  system  of  mine- 
292 


WATERFALL  NEAR  MATILDE,  ON  THE  LINE 
TO  VICTORIA   ESPIRITO   SANTO. 


Some  Excursions  from  Rio 

owning  was  now  changed  to  that  of  claims,  the  objecting  Paulistas 
being  promised  that  they  should  lose  nothing  by  the  change, 
and  entrance  to  the  territory  by  way  of  Bahia  was  interdicted. 
This,  however,  only  led  to  the  opening  up  of  the  new  road  from 
the  coast  by  way  of  Espirito  Santo,  and  five  years  later  the  futile 
prohibition  was  withdrawn.  By  this  time  the  wealth  of  the 
territory  had  become  known,  and  large  numbers  of  all  classes, 
old  and  young,  rich  and  poor,  flocked  in  from  all  parts  of  Brazil 
and  from  lands  beyond  the  seas.    Miners  and  their  following 


THE   RAPIDS   AT    PIRAPORA,    ON    SAN    FRANCISCO    RIVER. 


have  never  been  a  class  easily  governed,  and  the  arrogant  claims 
of  the  Pauhstas  were  resented  by  the  rest  of  the  community, 
who  united  in  opposing  them,  and  thus  commenced  the  welding 
together  of  the  elements  which  have  gone  to  make  up  the  popu- 
lation of  the  State  as  one  finds  it  to-day.  But  it  was  long  ere 
anything  hke  civilised  order  was  estabhshed,  for  the  cruelty 
of  the  white  taskmasters  towards  the  natives  and  the  negroes 
imported  from  Africa  led  continually  to  bitter  feelings  of  unrest 
and  revolt,  whilst  the  ruling  classes,  unrestrained  by  a  licentious 
and  unruly  priesthood,  were  themselves  demoralised  and  dissolute, 
and  stern,   almost  tyrannical,  measures  were  necessary  before 

293 


A  Tour  through  South  America 

the  foundations  of  government  were  laid.  Much  of  the  State 
is  still  unknown  save  to  the  wild  Indians  who  roam  its  forests, 
but  it  is  gradually  being  opened  up.  In  addition  to  the  mining 
industry,  which  has  been  carried  on  for  over  two  hundred  years, 
Minas  does  a  considerable  trade  in  cattle,  coffee,  tobacco,  and 


OLD    HOUSES,    BAHIA. 

other  agricultural  products.  The  dairy  industry  has  recently 
become  prominent,  and  offers  a  good  field  for  the  investment 
of  capital  and  experience,  whilst  a  fresh  source  of  wealth  exists 
in  the  manganese  discovered  in  the  State  when  a  cutting  was 
being  made  for  the  Central  Railway.  This  latter  is  not  only  the 
294 


Some  Excursions  from  Rio 

means  of  direct  communication  with  the  Federal  capital,  but 
is  pushing  out  its  branches  and  extensions  in  all  directions. 
Known  originally  as  the  Dom  Pedro  II  Railway,  this  line  is  now 
a  Government  concern,  and  aims  at  bringing  all  the  States  of 
the  Union  into  direct  communication  with  the  capital,  linking 
up  with  other  lines,  and  taking  advantage  of  river  transit  until 
inland  connection  shall  be  estabhshed  even  with  the  Amazon, 
the  greatest  waterway  in  the  world. 

If  the  traveller  wishes  for  a  more  ambitious  excursion,  it  will 
be  quite  easy  for  him  to  voyage  northwards  towards  Atlantic 
seaboard  cities  almost  as  fair  as  Rio  itself.  But  the  selection 
of  the  steamship  line  is  of  the  greatest  importance.  The  two 
hnes  to  be  recommended  are  the  Royal  Mail  Steamship  Co.  and 
the  Lage  Iramos,  either  of  which  is  preferable  to  the  national 
line,  Lloyd  Brazileiro.  The  traveller  will  find  in  Bahia  or  San 
Salvador  a  city  of  glamour  and  enchantment.  It  was  one  of  the 
earliest  European  settlements  in  Brazil,  and  it  had  for  a  long 
time  a  chequered  and  turbulent  history,  what  with  Indian  ravages 
and  the  desperate  conflicts  between  the  Portuguese  and  the 
Dutch.  But  to-day  its  lines  are  cast  in  more  peaceful  places  ; 
its  inhabitants  have  grown  to  250,000,  who,  taking  advantage 
of  the  lavish  way  in  which  Nature  yields  her  treasures  in  this 
district,  seem  quite  contented  and  prosperous.  The  city  consists 
of  an  upper  and  a  lower  town,  the  former  of  which  is  built  on  the 
cliffs.  Here  are  the  Governor's  palace,  the  Senate  building,  the 
Public  Library,  and  the  cathedral.  The  last-named  edifice  is 
one  of  the  oldest  buildings  in  South  America,  having  been  founded 
as  a  Jesuit  college  away  back  in  the  sixteenth  century.  Its  interior, 
hke  the  interior  of  all  the  other  Bahian  churches,  is  full  of  florid 
embellishment,  and  exhibits  the  tendency  of  the  Latin-Ameri- 
can people  towards  flamboyant  expression  in  their  architecture. 
Bahia  is  not  only  one  of  the  most  picturesque  of  all  the  cities 
of  Brazil ;  it  is  the  sea-gate  of  a  large  and  fertile  province,  where 
the  kindly  fruits  of  the  earth  grow  and  ripen  with  tropical  rapidity. 
The  palms  of  the  district  yield  a  special  form  of  nut,  which  is 
exported  to  the  east.  Tobacco  is  a  flourishing  crop,  and  coffee 
cultivation  an  industry  of  prime  importance.  Cotton  is  grown 
over  an  extensive  area,  and  not  all  of  it  is  exported,  for  Bahia 
has  many  mills  of  its  own.  The  State  is  also  a  great  producer 
of  rubber,  while  the  cultivation  of  cocoa  increases  year  by  year. 

295 


A  Tour  through  South  America 

Cattle-raising  forms  yet  another  occupation  of  the  Bahians. 
The  transport  facihties  are  also  good  ;  several  railway  systems 
connect  the  city  with  the  producing  districts,  and  fleets  of  coastwise 
vessels  make  other  ports  on  the  Brazilian  seaboard  quite  easy  of 
access.  A  brisk  export  trade  is  transacted  with  foreign  countries, 
one  of  the  best  of  Bahia's  customers  being  the  United  Kingdom. 


THE   BARAS   DE  AQUINO. 

The  curious  winding  track  of  the  Leopoldina  Railway. 

Further  up  the  coast  lies  Pernambuco,  and  this  likewise  will 
be  found  a  most  desirable  halting-place.  It  is  a  conglomeration 
of  four  towns,  Recife,  the  commercial  quarter,  Santo  Antonio, 
which  contains  the  Government  offices  ;  San  Jose,  where  the 
public  works  and  railway  stations  are  situated ;  and  Boa  Vista, 
the  fashionable  residential  quarter.  The  several  townships  are 
connected  by  handsome  bridges,  a  feature  which  gives  Pernam- 
296 


Some  Exciirsioiis  frofii  Rio 


buco  a  distinct  character  of  its  own,  and  has  earned  for  it  the 
sobriquet  of  the  "  BraziHan  Venice  "  ;  a  coral  reef  about  five 
hundred  feet  from  the  shore  runs  along  the  entire  front  of  the 
city,  and  forms  a  natural  protection  to  the  magnificent  harbour. 
This  reef  marches  with  the  coast  from  Bahia  to  Maranhao,  a 
distance  of  nearly  a  thousand  miles. 

One  is  charmed  with  the  aspect  of  Pernambuco  long  before 
one  sets  foot  upon  its  quay.    The  palm  groves  and  the  red  roofs 


THE    RAILWAY   OVER   THE   CONFLUENCE   OF   THE    PAQUEQUR   AND 
PARAHYBA    RIVERS. 


of  the  houses  compose  into  a  really  charming  picture.  The  popu- 
lation of  the  city  verges  upon  two  hundred  thousand.  Its  docJ^s 
are  spacious  and  well  managed,  and  its  importance  as  a  commercial 
centre  is  demonstrated  by  the  fact  that  no  fewer  than  ten  cable 
lines  hnk  it  up  with  the  great  outer  world.  Several  railways, 
of  which  the  most  important  are  the  Great  Western  of  Brazil, 
the  Recife  and  San  Francisco,  and  the  Alagoas,  connect  it  with 
the  interior,  and  bring  down  to  the  port  supplies  of  sugar,  cotton, 
rice,    tobacco,    indigo,    cinnamon,    pineapples,   grapes,    oranges, 

297 


A  Tour  through  South  America 

bananas,  and  other  commodities.  The  shippers  of  Pernambuco 
are  favourably  placed  for  despatching  their  merchandise  to  its 
destination,  for  the  port  occupies  a  point  on  the  American  sea- 
board nearer  to  Europe  than  any  other. 

If  the  traveller  still  pines  for  new  worlds  to  conquer,  the  Lage 
Iramos  steamers  will  take  him  to  the  mouth  of  the  mighty  Amazon, 
known  to  every  schoolboy  as  the  largest  river  in  the  w^orld,  and 
destined  to  become  more  and  more  the  great  outlet  for  the  trade 
of  Brazil.  The  great  estuary  of  that  stream  is  like  a  huge  inland 
sea  debouching  into  the  ocean,  for  it  is  not  only  the  waters  of 
the  Amazon  that  are  there  discharged,  but  the  effluents  of  a 
dozen  tributaries,  many  of  them  larger  than  any  river  that  Europe 
can  boast.  The  trip  up  to  Manaos,  many  miles  inland,  will  be  more 
than  sufficient  to  impress  the  voyager  with  the  magnitude  and 
majesty  of  this  noble  stream. 


298 


CHAPTER    XXVI 

Sao  Paulo 

UNLIKE  most  of  the  State  capitals  of  Brazil,  Sao  Paulo  lies 
some  distance  inland,  but  in  close  touch  with  its  port 
Santos,  some  thirty-five  miles  distant.  Many  passengers  travel- 
hng  by  the  Royal  Mail  steamers  bound  for  the  Argentine,  dis- 
embark at  Rio  and  take  the  train  from  the  Central  Railway  Station 
across  country  to  Sao  Paulo,  rejoining  their  steamer  at  Santos. 
This  variation  is  not  only  a  pleasant  break  in  the  voyage,  but 
affords  the  opportunity  for  viewing  the  most  thriving  and  pros- 
perous city  in  South  America. 

The  journey  by  rail  from  Rio  to  Sao  Paulo  occupies  about 
twelve  hours  in  a  sleeping  or  observation  car,  equalling  if  not 
excelling  anything  of  the  kind  in  Europe.  The  separate  two- 
berth  cabins  provided  with  electric  light  and  fans  will  be  appre- 
ciated by  the  most  experienced  railway  travellers  accustomed  to 
the  latest  improvements  in  the  way  of  comfort. 

The  first  part  of  the  journey  is  through  a  hilly  country, 
with  immense  woods  and  thick  undergrowth  of  tropical  vegeta- 
tion, covering  the  earth  as  with  a  vivid  green  mantle  as  far  as 
the  eye  can  reach.  Numbers  of  curious  trees  with  fantastically 
twisted  stems  reaching  to  a  height  of  lOO  to  150  feet  tower  above 
the  dense  masses  of  tangled  foliage,  tall  palms  of  many  varieties 
with  fan-shaped  leaves,  and  straight  smooth  trunks,  grow  side 
by  side  with  dwarfed  bushy  shrubs,  over  which  great  banana 
leaves  bend  with  their  own  weight,  whilst  magnificent  flowers 
and  orchids  of  brilliant  colour  peep  out  from  the  dark  recesses  of 
the  woods,  sparkling  like  jewels  in  a  mass  of  lovely  hair. 

As  Sao  Paulo  is  neared,  the  tropical  luxuriance  fades,  and 
nature's  wild  and  prolific  garden  is  replaced  by  the  ordered  ar- 
rangements of  man's  industry,  for  this  State  is  the  best  farmed 

299 


A  Tour  through  South  Ainerica 

as  well  as  the  most  thickly  populated  in  all  Brazil.  Its  staple 
industry  produces  at  least  one  half  of  all  the  coffee  consumed  in 
the  world  to-day,  besides  which  its  people  gather  large  harvests 
of  sugar,  cotton,  grapes,  tobacco,  and  several  kinds  of  cereals, 
principally  rice  and  wheat. 

This  agricultural  prosperity  is  due  to  several  causes  :  a  kindly 
climate,  a  regular  rainfall,  a  natural  system  of  irrigation,  and  an 
increasingly  industrious  population  from  all  parts  of  Europe. 

The  workers  in  this  State  pursue  their  occupations  amidst  the 
fairest  surroundings,  and  in  an  environment  well  calculated  to 
induce  happiness  and  contentment.  The  air  is  clear,  the  climate 
mild,  the  sun  shines  brightly,  the  scenery  is  varied  and  cheerful, 
whilst  the  social  element  so  necessary  to  civilised  beings  is  full  of 
charming  diversity. 

The  capital  of  the  State  takes  second  place  amongst  the  cities 
of  Brazil,  and  like  the  Federal  capital  has  in  recent  years  under- 
gone many  changes.  Much  of  it  has  been  already  rebuilt,  and 
more  is  undergoing  alteration.  New  buildings,  imposing  and 
exhibiting  the  latest  styles  of  architecture,  have  largely  replaced 
the  old  Portuguese  colonial  houses  which,  although  solid,  were 
rather  lugubrious  and  forbidding. 

The  replanning  of  the  city  has  the  enthusiastic  support  of  all 
the  inhabitants,  and  not  a  few  of  the  more  prosperous  citizens 
have  evinced  a  pubhc-spirited  generosity  in  their  contributions 
to  the  beautifying  of  their  city.  The  work  that  has  already  been 
done,  and  that  still  going  on,  is  worthy  of  the  magnificent  site 
which  the  city  occupies  between  two  great  mountain  ranges,  the 
Serra  do  Mar  and  the  Mantiqueira,  the  peaks  of  the  latter  rising 
from  2000  to  2500  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea.  Two  rivers 
take  their  rise  in  these  hills,  the  Paranapanema  which  flows  in  a 
westerly  direction  and  forms  the  boundary  between  Parana  and 
Sao  Paulo  States,  and  the  Tiete  which  in  a  north-westerly  direction 
flows  right  through  the  latter  State.  Both  these  large  rivers  are 
but  tributaries  of  the  Parana,  the  great  waterway  of  the  interior 
of  the  continent. 

The  State  extends  over  an  area  of  more  than  112,000  square 
miles,  and  its  chmate  varies  in  the  different  zones,  which  have 
strongly  marked  and  differing  characteristics. 

The  low-lying  lands  which  border  on  the  coast  at  the  foot  of 
the  eastern  Serra  are  marshy  swamps,  a  region  of  damp  heat 
300 


Sao  Paulo 

uncongenial  to  man  but  excellent  for  the  cultivation  of  rice. 
The  humid,  steamy  air  of  the  littoral  is  in  strong  contrast  to  the 
agreeable  conditions  on  the  plateau  upon  which  the  capital 
stands.  The  intermediate  region  of  the  Serra  do  Mar  is  covered 
with  dense  vegetation,  subject  to  heavy  rains,  whilst  mists  con- 
tinually envelop  the  hills,  and  the  sun  shines  but  seldom  through 
the  thick  vapours.  Frost  and  hail  are  not  uncommon  on  the 
Serra,  and  ev^en  snow  is  not  unknown. 


THE  ROAD  TO  SAO  PAULO  FROM  RIO. 


But  it  is  the  plateau  between  the  Serra  and  the  Parana  that 
possesses  the  most  favourable  climate,  for  although  the  tempera- 
ture varies  slightly  it  is  always  agreeable  and  pleasant,  being 
neither  too  hot  nor  too  cold.  This  plateau  is  perhaps  the 
most  fertile  and  productive  in  the  great  continent,  which  abounds 
with  favoured  regions,  and  its  great  prosperity  gives  some  indica- 
tion of  its  popularity  with  European  settlers. 

The  early  history  of  the  State  of  Sao  Paulo  has  a  romance 
running  through  its  pages  which  can  never  cease  to  be  of  interest, 

301 


A  Tour  through  South  America 

and  the  beginnings  of  its  prosperity  are  traceable  to  the  friendly 
relationships  established  in  the  beginning  of  the  sixteenth  century 
between  a  shipwrecked  Portuguese  sailor,  Joao  Ramalho,  and 
Tybirica,  the  chief  of  the  Guayanas,  a  tribe  who  dominated  the 
country. 

Ramalho  married  the  chief's  daughter,  and  this  alhance 
cemented  a  friendship  with  the  chief  and  his  tribe,  over  which 
the  castaway  soon  acquired  so  great  an  influence  that  when 
Martin  Affonso  arrived  at  the  head  of  an  expedition  he  met  with 
a  friendly  welcome.  For  his  good  offices  Ramalho  was  rewarded 
by  the  Portuguese  Crown  with  a  grant  of  the  lands  which  he  and 
the  tribe  were  occupying,  the  new-comers  estabUshing  a  settle- 
ment at  St.  Vincente,  near  Santos,  and  erecting  a  fort  on  the 
island  of  St.  Aifiaro  at  the  entrance  to  the  bay.  From  the  union 
between  the  Portuguese  settlers  and  the  Guayanas  there  sprang 
the  race  of  half-breeds  known  first  as  Mamelucos  and  later  as 
Paulistas,  a  race  that  accomplished  much  in  the  exploration  and 
development  of  various  parts  of  Brazil. 

The  village  of  St.  Andre,  where  Ramalho  and  his  father-in-law 
Tybirica  lived,  rapidly  grew  until  in  1533  it  was  raised  to  the 
position  of  a  town,  and  these  two  settlements  of  St.  Vincente  and 
St.  Andre  were  the  forerunners  of  the  cities  of  Santos  and  Sao 
Paulo  which  afterwards  arose  upon  adjacent  sites. 

The  Jesuits,  who  arrived  upon  the  scene  in  1554,  proved  an 
important  factor  in  suppressing  the  invasions  of  savage  tribes 
who  threatened  the  little  colonies  from  time  to  time,  and  in 
organising  the  settlements  by  the  construction  of  a  road  con- 
necting that  at  the  coast  with  the  mission  station  which  they 
established  at  Sao  Paulo.  This  mission  station  grew  in  power  and 
importance  until  finally  it  usurped  the  position  of  St.  Andre, 
which  was  destroyed  at  the  instigation  of  the  priests. 

The  history  of  the  two  succeeding  centuries  is  filled  with  the 
contests  between  the  lay  Paulistas  and  the  Jesuits,  their  methods 
being  in  constant  opposition,  for  whilst  the  former  desired  native 
labour  to  cultivate  their  lands  and  work  their  industries,  they 
found  that  the  missions  absorbed  most  if  not  all  of  the  available 
natives.  These  were  gathered  under  the  protection  of  the  missions 
upon  the  communistic  plan  so  successfully  practised  under  the 
Jesuits  in  other  parts  of  the  continent,  the  natives  meeting  with 
fair  and  considerate  treatment,  although  practically  reduced  to 
302 


Sao  Pattlo 

the  position  of  slaves  working  for  the  common  good.  The  laymen 
sought  to  bring  the  natives  into  the  condition  of  slaves  for  their 
own  personal  interest,  and  to  treat  them  as  property  to  be  used 
for  their  own  aggrandisement,  and  professed  to  see  little  or  no 
difference  in  their  doing  individualistically  what  the  Church  did 
communistically. 

The  association  of  the  whites  and  their  half-Indian  progeny 
with  the  pure  native  Indians  was  also  the  cause  of  much  dissen- 
sion, and  led  to  numbers  of  the  latter  withdrawing  from  the 
settlements  and  forming  new  ones  antagonistic  to  the  invaders. 


THE   APPROACH    TO   SANTOS. 


In  all  the  quarrels  Tybirica  stood  loyally  b)^  his  son-in-law's 
fellow-countrymen,  and  even  fought  against  his  own  brother 
when  the  latter  led  an  attack  upon  Sao  Paulo. 

As  the  Mamelucos  grew  in  numbers  their  demands  for  native 
labour  increased,  and  its  monopoly  by  the  Jesuits  came  to  be  a 
grievance  which  the  laymen  determined  to  redress.  Raids  upon 
the  Indians  of  the  interior  were  consequently  organised,  and  the 
adventurous  Paulistas  did  not  hesitate  to  risk  their  lives  in  the 
pursuit  of  tribes  as  far  as  the  borders  of  Bolivia  after  the  nearer 
districts  had  been  cleared  of  natives,  and  in  these  expeditions 
even  the  mission  settlements  of  the  Guayana  were  not  spared. 
Injmense  numbers  of  natives  were  captured  and  brought  down 

303 


A  Tour  throitgh  South  America 

to  the  markets  of  Sao  Paulo  for  sale,  many  of  them  being  purchased 
to  supply  the  demands  of  neighbouring  States. 

As  this  slave  hunting  went  on  unrestrained,  the  Jesuits  re- 
moved their  missions  further  west  to  escape  the  attentions  of 
their  enemies  ;  but  in  1641  a  large  party  of  the  Paulistas  invaded 
the  Paraguayan  missions  and  bore  away  many  natives  as  captives. 
These  Paulistas  had  become  adventmrous,  and  hardy,  past  belief, 
and  were  the  most  energetic  race  in  the  whole  continent,  opening 
up  much  of  the  country  in  the  course  of  their  expeditions — 
discovering  diamonds  in  Minas,  gold  in  Maranhao,  and  laying  the 
foimdations  of  towns  and  villages  wherever  they  went. 

When  the  emancipation  of  the  Indian  (not  the  negro)  slaves 
was  decreed  in  1758,  the  energies  of  this  indefatigable  people, 
checked  in  one  direction,  were  turned  towards  exploration  for 
a  period,  and  it  was  not  until  the  beginning  of  the  nineteenth 
century,  when  their  country  was  opened  up  to  the  trade  of  the 
world,  that  they  found  fresh  and  congenial  outlets  for  their 
enterprise. 

During  the  whole  of  the  last  century  immigration  has  flowed 
steadily  into  the  country,  and  its  abundant  agricultural  wealth 
has  been  developed  with  a  steady  persistence.  The  virile  peoples 
from  the  Old  World,  who  have  flocked  into  the  State,  have  been 
rapidly  absorbed  by  the  Paulistas,  and  a  conglomerate  race, 
made  up  of  many  elements,  now  populates  the  country.  The 
energy  of  the  PauHsta  resembles  that  of  the  American  of  the 
United  States,  and  the  activity  in  the  city  of  Sao  Paulo  is  remarked 
by  all  who  have  compared  it  with  Rio  and  other  towns  in  different 
parts  of  Brazil. 

The  city  of  Sao  Paulo  is  full  of  pleasant  surprises.  Its  three 
principal  streets,  the  Rua  Sao  Bento,  Rua  Quinze  de  Novembro, 
and  Rua  Direita,  form  a  triangle  in  the  busiest  part  of  the  city, 
and  are  narrow,  crowded  thoroughfares,  the  electric  cars  taking 
up  the  principal  part  of  the  roadways,  which  in  business  hours 
become  so  congested  that  progress  is  very  slow,  both  for  pe- 
destrians and  vehicular  traffic. 

Many  of  the  shops  are  fine,  and  contain  a  goodly  display  of 
wares,  but  prices  are  high.  Their  harvest  season  is  somewhat 
restricted,  owing  to  the  large  number  of  feast  days  or  holidays 
throughout  the  year,  in  addition  to  the  Sundays,  upon  which 

304 


Sao  Paulo 

the  bulk  of  the  shops  are  closed.  In  the  case  of  tobacconists 
Sunday  closing  is  rigorously  enforced,  and  the  multitude 
of  smokers  have  to  lay  in  their  supplies  for  the  week-end.  It 
is  on  a  Sunday  or  a  festa  day  that  the  crowds  in  the  street  are 
most  interesting,  for  then  the  folk  come  out  in  their  gala  clothes 
on  pleasure  and  amusement  bent.  There  is  no  uniformity  whatever 
in  the  costumes  worn  by  either  sex.    Bare-headed  women  wearing 


r,0\  ERNMKXT    BUILDINGS    IN   THli    LAR(;0    DI'    I'ALACIO. 


fur  boas,  men  wearing  overcoats,  others  clad  in  white  drill  suits 
and  straw  hats  or  black  felt  head-gear,  parade  the  streets  in  an 
ever  changing  stream.  The  car  conductors,  in  grey  uniforms 
with  gold  facings,  are  kept  busy  attending  to  the  human  freights, 
whilst  policemen,  in  black  with  red  facings,  direct  the  traffic 
with  small,  white  batons,  as  in  Paris.  Lottery  ticket  vendors 
yell  their  wares  in  competition  with  purveyors  of  sweets,  cakes, 
and  pastries,  whose  yellow  dehcacies  tempt  the  flies  and  children 
who  swarm  around,  the  former  brushed  off  with  large  feather 
brushes,   the  latter  encouraged  by  glowing  enlreatics     Every- 

V  305 


A  Tour  through  South  America 

thing  looks  new  here,  even  traditions  and  customs  from  the 
Old  World  seeming  to  undergo  a  change.  In  the  crowds  at  the 
street  corners  the  men  are  mostly  garbed  in  black,  but  the  women 
affect  all  the  colours  of  the  rainbow. 

White  dresses  predominate,  but  blues,  magentas,  yellows, 
pinks,  greens,  and  faded  vermilions  are  freely  admixed,  varied 
with  yellow  and  red  kerchiefs  and  purple  shawls.  Here  a  group 
of  four  or  five  mules  ridden  by  bare-footed  countrymen  in  blue 
trousers,  there  shaggy  yellow  ponies,  sun-faded  and  mud-stained, 
brush  through  and  rub  against  the  holiday-making  crowd.  Yonder, 
on  the  steps  leading  up  to  the  gardens,  sits  an  Itahan,  munching 
his  midday  meal  of  bread,  cheese,  and  olives.  In  these  gardens, 
in  front  of  the  President's  palace,  are  many  curious  and  beautiful 
trees,  amongst  them  two  stately  oaks  with  the  freshest  of  green 
leaves,  soft  and  delicate,  as  in  early  summer. 

The  palms  and  ferns,  cut  and  cropped  into  fantastic  shapes, 
mingle  with  the  cactus,  which  needs  no  such  attention.  In  the 
shady  bowers  are  welcome  resting-places,  where  the  wearied 
sit  in  the  patches  of  sunlight  that  splash  warm  upon  them  through 
the  branches,  reading  the  papers  in  French,  Italian,  and  Portu- 
guese, smoking  eternally,  conversing  frequently,  and  moving 
but  seldom.  Flower-sellers  move  here  and  there,  offering  tempting 
bunches  of  the  loveliest  pansies,  violets,  and  roses,  and  add  colour 
to  the  scene.  The  singing  of  birds,  the  tinkhng  of  the  car  bells, 
the  hum  of  voices,  the  strident  cries  of  the  hawkers,  all  mingle 
on  the  sunny  Sunday  morn,  and  a  happier-looking  city  and  people 
it  would  be  difficult  to  imagine. 

A  favourite  jaunt  with  the  Sunday  or  holiday  crowd — Italians, 
negroes,  Portuguese,  Germans,  Paulistas,  and  Enghsh — is  a 
run  on  the  car  from  the  Largo  do  Se  to  the  gardens  and  museum 
at  Ypiranga.  The  journey  occupies  about  half  an  hour,  and  the 
route  runs  through  the  Square  of  15th  September,  along  the  Rua 
do  Gloria,  with  its  small  one-story  houses,  past  the  abattoir, 
through  boulevards  planted  on  either  side  with  trees,  to  the 
suburbs,  where  building  is  going  on  in  all  directions,  the  work- 
men busy  at  their  jobs,  although  it  is  Sunday.  Outside  the  town 
are  market  gardens  and  fields  with  green  grass  and  rich,  red  soil, 
firs  and  pines  on  all  sides,  cattle  browsing  in  the  meadowland, 
rose-covered  villas  and  factories  springing  up  amidst  the  green 
fields. 
306 


Sao  Patilo 

Most  of  the  occupants  of  the  cars  descend  at  the  gardens  of 
the  Ypiranga,  in  the  grounds  of  which  are  wide  walks,  raised 
terraces,  Hned  with  cypress  trees,  and  well  laid  out  beds  of  flowers 
and  shrubs  of  all  varieties. 

The  museum  is  built  upon  the  spot  where  the  independence 
of  Brazil  was  proclaimed  in  1822  by  the  Prince  Dom  Pedro, 
who,  on  learning  of  the  refusal  of  the  Cortes  at  Lisbon  to  listen 


THE  NATIONAL  MUbEUM  AT  YPIRANGA. 

respectfully  to  the  Brazilian  delegates,  impetuously  gave  utterance 
to  the  famous  cry,  "  Independence  or  Death  !  "  and  was  shortly 
afterwards  proclaimed  constitutional  Emperor  of  Brazil. 

The  museum,  erected  as  a  monument  to  commemorate  this 
historic  event,  is  a  well-designed  and  imposing  building,  containing 
fine  staircases  and  lofty  galleries,  in  one  of  which  is  a  huge  picture 
illustrating  the  "  Independencia  ou  Morto  "  incident. 

The  galleries  are  filled  with  collections  of  various  objects 
of  natural  and  historical  interest  such  as  butterflies  and  birds, 
wasps  and  bees,  with  their  curious  nests,  old  leather-covered 

307 


A  Tour  through  South  America 

furniture,  sedan  chairs,  cupboards,  fourposter  beds,  and  chests 
of  the  colonial  period. 

Amongst  the  many  curious  and  instructive  objects  gathered 
together  are  pottery  from  all  parts  of  the  continent,  including 
Colombian,  Peruvian,  and  Mexican  ;  stuffed  fish,  weird  in  shape 
and  marvellous  in  variety,  taken  from  the  rivers  ;  lizards,  chame- 
leons, turtles,  alligators,  and  snakes.  Here,  too,  are  specimens 
of  the  feathers  and  ornaments  worn  by  the  savage  Indian  tribes 
of  the  State  of  Sao  Paulo,  head-dresses  of  yellow  feathers,  neck- 
laces of  human  teeth,  collars  of  green  parrot  feathers  and  beetles' 
wings,  and  of  beadwork  mixed  with  feathers. 

The  instruments,  warhke  and  peaceful,  of  the  native  tribes 
are  also  well  represented,  such  as  clubs,  bows  and  arrows,  stone 
hammers,   baskets,   crudely   made   straw   hats,    a   curious   fire 
making   appliance   consisting   of   spindle   revolving   in   a   disc ; 
native  panpipes,  calabashes,  and  mats. 

Amongst  the  stuffed  animals  are  such  curiosities  oi:  freaks 
as  a  calf  with  only  two  legs,  and  another  with  two  heads. 

The  Paulistas,  imbued  with  the  spirit  of  freedom,  have  bestowed 
upon  many  of  their  streets  and  squares  the  names  of  patriots 
and  public  benefactors,  as  witness  the  Avenue  Tiradentes,  which 
perpetuates  the  name  and  fame  of  one  of  the  ardent  spirits  ol 
the  eighteenth  century,  who  ever  strove  to  rouse  the  nation  to 
throw  off  the  yoke  of  Portugal. 

Tiradentes,  although  not  the  leader  of  the  conspiracy  which 
failed,  nevertheless  was  a  martyr  to  the  cause  and  was  beheaded, 
drawn,  and  quartered,  his  head  exposed  to  the  pubHc  gaze  in 
Ouro  Preto,  and  his  house  there  burned  to  the  ground.  He  was 
the  first  republican  to  shed  his  blood  in  the  cause  of  Brazilian 
independence,  but  not  till  a  century  after  his  death  was  the  aim 
accomphshed. 

Throughout  the  city  such  names  as  Avenida  Rangel  Pestana 
and  Rua  Visconda  do  Rio  Branco  testify  to  the  esteem  in  which 
the  inhabitants  hold  their  public  men. 

In  striking  contrast  to  the  narrower  streets  is  the  Viaducto 
Clia,  a  broad  avenue  that  leads  to  the  new  part  of  the  city  where 
everything  is  on  a  magnificent  scale,  with  squares  and  avenues 
of  which  any  city  might  well  be  proud.  The  valley  which  separates 
the  old  city  from  the  new  was  undergoing  great  alterations  during 
my  visit,  vast  business  palaces  springing  up  on  this  beautiful 
308 


Sao  Paulo 

site.  Overlooking  this  valley,  which  is  being  laid  out  tastefully 
as  a  pubhc  garden,  stands  the  Municipal  Theatre,  one  of  the  finest 
buildings  in  the  country,  built  at  a  cost  of  nearly  half  a  milHon 
sterhng.    It  is  a  fine  monument  to  the  wisdom,  skill,  and  taste 


d 


THE  THEATRE   OF  S.    PAULO, 


of  its  projectors,  engineers,  and  architects,  and  frOm  its  command- 
ing position  compares  more  than  favourably  with  its  rival  in  Rio. 
The  interior  is  elaborately  decorated.  Marble  staircases,  handsome 
balustrades,  gilded  columns,  white  and  gold  walls,  and  frescoed 
ceilings  all  enrich  the  imposing  vestibule.  The  foyer  is  a  spacious 

309 


A  Tour  through  South  America 

apartment,  seen  at  its  best  when  a  dance  is  going  forward.  It 
was  my  good  fortune  to  be  present  at  a  ball  given  by  its 
inhabitants  in  honour  of  its  architect,  Dr.  Ramos  de  Azevedo, 
and  Seiior  Antonio  Prado,  who  was  Mayor  of  the  city  when  the 
theatre  was  commenced.  Exquisite  floral  decorations  were 
lavished  upon  the  staircase,  corridors,  and  ballrooms,  thousands 
of  electric  lamps  being  dotted  everysvhere  amidst  the  flowers. 

The  brilhance  of  the  ladies'  costumes  set  off  with  sparkling 
diamonds  gave  an  added  animation  to  a  scene  which  equalled 
if  it  did  not  surpass  the  grand  functions  in  Rio,  where  one  is  used 
to  costly  and  elaborate  displays. 

The  Largo  do  Palacio  is  a  pleasing  square  which  overlooks 
a  great  stretch  of  the  surrounding  country,  and  is  formed  by 
the  President's  Palace  and  the  administration  buildings  of  Justice, 
Agriculture,  and  Finance,  an  imposing  and  quiet  retreat  on  the 
margin  of  the  busiest  part  of  the  city.  But  Sao  Paulo  is  rich  in 
fine  buildings,  schools,  technical  colleges,  and  institutes  testifying 
to  the  educational  facihties  afforded  to  all  classes  of  the  com- 
munity. Hospitals  and  asylums  evince  care  for  the  sick  and 
mentally  afflicted.  Government  enterprise  in  the  erection  of 
these  buildings  has  been  ably  seconded  by  private  munificence, 
and  the  Escola  de  Commerco  Alvares  Penteado  is  a  good  example 
of  the  public  spirit  displayed  by  the  citizens.  This  fine  building, 
presented  to  the  town  by  the  Conde  de  Penteado,  occupies  the 
whole  side  of  one  of  its  squares,  and  its  good  and  pleasant  pro- 
portions are  in  the  style  associated  with  the  latest  architectural 
movements  on  the  continent  of  Europe.  The  Conde  has  done 
much  to  embellish  the  city,  and  his  private  residence,  the  Villa 
Penteado,  in  the  suburb  of  Hygienopolis,  is  one  of  the  most 
notable  of  the  hundreds  of  luxurious  mansions  that  adorn  the 
surrounding  avenues. 

This  villa  is  in  reality  a  palace  quite  in  harmony  with  the 
progress  of  the  city.  The  design  reflects  modernity  of  taste 
down  to  its  minutest  details,  and  the  happy  use  that  has  been 
made  of  native  woods  in  the  internal  decorations  and  fittings 
is  truly  ingenious.  Its  owner,  a  notable  figure  in  Sao  Paulo, 
has  had  much  to  do  with  the  cultivation  of  coffee,  for,  inheriting 
estates  of  growing  importance,  he  was  not  content  to  remain  a 
"  fazendero,"  but  entered  into  the  field  of  industry  with  all  the 
keenness  characteristic  of  the  Paulistas,  and  inaugurated  one  of 
310 


Sao  Paulo 

the  largest  jute  mills  in  Brazil.  His  son,  the  Conde  Sylvia,  follows 
close  in  his  father's  footsteps,  being  a  thorough  believer  in  the 
Gospel  of  Work,  and  presents  the  rare  spectacle  of  a  young  man 
of  fortune  energetically  forcing  his  way  to  the  front  as  a  captain 
of  industry. 

The  Paulistas  have  built  and  developed  so  many  fine  buildings 
and  institutions  that  there  can  be  no  doubt  of  their  ability  to 


THE   PENTEADO  TECHNICAL  COLi 


give  fitting  expression  to  their  high  ideals,  whilst  numerous 
beautiful  residences  give  ample  evidence  of  their  good  taste, 
and  would  attract  attention  in  almost  any  city  in  the  world. 

The  Minister  of  Justice,  Dr.  Washington  Luiz,  has  control  of  a 
department  of  the  State  which  is  of  the  greatest  importance  to  the 
community.  All  vehicles,  cars,  carts,  carriages,  and  wagons  are 
licensed  under  this  department,  and  an  efficient  method  of  inspection 
is  in  operation.  Similarly  porters,  newsvendors,  sellers  of  lottery 
tickets,  chauffeurs,  and  hawkers  are  all  obliged  to  take  out  hcences 

311 


A  Tour  through  South  Ajuerica 

that  are  registered  in  the  card  catalogues  of  the  department. 
The  system  of  identification  cards,  with  photographs  and  finger- 
prints of  the  owners,  has  been  brought  to  a  high  state  of  per- 
fection. All  known  criminals  are  filed  for  reference  in  a  separate 
register  from  that  which  is  kept  for  ordinary  civilians  who  for 
purposes  of  travel  desire  to  possess  a  proper  certificate  of  identi- 
fication. Another  card  catalogue  kept  up  to  date  contains  full 
particulars  of  all  houses  of  business  occupied  only  during  the 
daytime,  and  the  private  addresses  where  the  owners  can  be 


THE    VILLA    PENTEADO. 


communicated  with  at  once  in  the  event  of  fire,  burglary,  or 
other  unusual  occurrence.  To  aid  the  police  a  most  wonderful 
telephonic  system  has  been  installed  throughout  the  city  and 
suburbs,  so  that  every  constable  on  beat  can  always  put  himself 
in  communication  with  headquarters  should  need  arise.  The 
street  call  stations  are  attached  to  posts  provided  with  alarum 
bells  for  use  by  day  and  electric  lamps  that  can  be  switched 
on  at  night,  in  order  to  call  the  attention  of  the  patrol  and  bring 
him  to  the  receiver,  which  is  enclosed  in  a  small  box.  Keys  are 
provided  throughout  the  force  which  fit  these  boxes,  so  that 
whilst  the  instrument  cannot  be  tampered  with  ever}'  police 
312 


Sao  Paulo 

officer  has  access  to  it,  and  outlying  patrols  can  summon  aid 
from  headquarters,  or  in  turn  be  hailed  whenever  necessary. 
A  tape  machine  at  headquarters  automatically  registers  all 
calls  that  take  place,  noting  the  minute,  hour,  and  date  by  a 
series  of  punctures,  thus  keeping  the  record  and  identification 
of  calls  from  the  various  stations. 

Motor  ambulances,  prison  vans,  and  fire-engines  can  be  brought 
at  the  shortest  possible  notice  to  any  part  of  the  town  and  district 
within  a  mile  radius,  and  the  equipment  of  all  the  "  public  assist- 
ance "  motor  vehicles  is  most  efficient  and  up  to  date.  The  very 
latest  models  of  motor-drawn  fire-engines,  escapes,  and  wagon- 
ettes are  held  in  readiness  at  the  fire-stations,  all  of  which  are 
in  telephonic  communication  w  ith  hundreds  of  call  offices  through- 
out the  city  ;  indeed,  a  finer  system  has  not  been  installed  in 
an}^  town  of  importance.  Great  attention  is  paid  to  fire  drill, 
a  dummy  wooden  house  of  four  stories  being  used  at  the  central 
station  for  the  men  to  practise  upon. 

The  army  of  the  State,  officered  and  drilled  by  a  French 
mission,  is,  although  small,  one  of  the  most  efficient  in  the  Union. 
The  military  bearing  of  the  men  when  on  parade  and  their 
workmanlike  evolutions  in  camp  and  field  compare  more 
than  favourably  with  those  of  the  Federal  troops  themselves. 
In  the  early  morning  companies  in  their  canvas  working  garb 
may  be  seen  busy  at  drill  in  the  fields  around  the  city,  and  the 
officers  are  justly  proud  of  their  men's  accomplishments.  The 
barracks  or  caserne  is  a  large  and  commodious  range  of  build- 
ings, with  stabling  attached  for  the  mules  and  horses,  a  veterinary 
hospital,  fitting  and  repairing  shops,  riding  school,  fencing  rooms, 
and  gj^mnasium,  all  kept  up  to  a  high  standard,  and  but  for 
the  language  spoken  by  the  men  the  visitor  might  easily  imagine 
himself  in  the  "  caserne  "  of  a  French  town. 

•  The  duty  of  preserving  order  devolves  upon  a  police  force 
which  is  drilled  upon  the  military  system,  which  apparently 
well  fits  them  for  the  carrying  out  of  their  civil  duties,  and  few 
cities  in  South  America  can  boast  of  public  servants  who  are 
better  trained  or  who  exhibit  as  much  esprit  de  corps  as  the 
soldiers,  police,  and  firemen  of  Sao  Paulo. 

Another  State  department  deserving  of  the  highest  praise 
is  that  of  agriculture,  presided  over  by  Dr.  Padua  Salles,  a  man 
of  exceptional  ability  and  delightful  personahty,  who  has  done 

•->  T  '> 


A  Tour  through  South  America 

much  to  enlarge  the  influence  and  usefulness  of  the  department 
under  his  charge. 

Under  his  direction  the  principal  interest  of  the  country,  its 
agricultural  development,  is  well  fostered  and  cared  for.    Much 


OFFICERS  OF  THE  SAO   PAULO  ARMY. 

has  been  accomplished  in  the  exploration  and  development 
of  the  vast  hinterland,  which  it  will  take  time  and  patience  to 
cover  fully.  Maps  and  statistics  of  the  rivers  Tiete,  Ribeira  de 
Iguape,  Juqueryquere,  Feio,  and  Aguapehy,  have  been  drawn, 
compiled,  and  pubhshed  by  the  Commissao-Geographica  E 
Geologica,    and    a   splendid    reference    hbrary    and    publication 

314 


Sao  Paulo 

department  are  at  the  free  disposal  of  all  desiring  the  fullest 
information  regarding  the  State  and  the  opportunities  it  offers 
to  the  investor.  Its  climate  is  inviting  to  Europeans,  and  is 
especially  popular  with  Italians,  who  flock  thither  in  large  numbers, 
and  have  every  provision  made  for  their  reception  and  encourage- 
ment. Hotels  are  provided  for  the  accommodation  of  immigrants 
until  they  have  chosen  their  location  and  settled  therein.   Schools 


A    WATERFALL    NEAR    SAO    PAULO. 

and  colleges  for  technical  and  agricultural  instruction  abound. 
The  Agricultural  College  at  Piracicaba,  about  150  miles  north- 
west of  Sao  Paulo,  is  one  of  the  best  equipped  of  its  kind  ; 
whilst  the  Fazenda  Modelo,  or  model  farm,  covers  an  area  of 
800  acres,  upon  which  almost  every  useful  and  profitable  crop  is 
grown  with  splendid  results. 

Besides  the  staple  product,  coffee,  Sao  Paulo  produces  plentiful 
crops  of  corn,  rice,  beans,  sugar-cane,  cotton,  and  tobacco, 
whilst  manioc,  or  cassava,  Irish  and  sweet  potatoes,  arrow- 
root,   oats,    and    field    peas     are    largely    cultivated.     Coffee 

315 


A  Tour  through  South  America 

however,  is  almost  the  only  agricultural  product  exported  from 
the  State,  for  the  others  barely  supply  the  home  demand. 
Of  the  industries  dependent  upon  the  produce  of  the  country 
mention  must  be  made  of  the  distillation  of  **  aguardiente," 
or  cane  whisky,  and  the  manufacture  of  sugar,  a  number  of 
factories  e^cisting  for  the  production  of  these  commodities, 
as  w^ell  as  for  cotton-weaving,  the  supplying  of  rectified  spirits 
from  corn,  and  the  utilising  of  textile  fibres  in  the  making  of 
bags,  carpeting,  and  twine.  Grape-growing  has  been  started 
and  experiments  made  to  ascertain  the  variety  of  grape  likely 
to  yield  the  best  result,  and  a  vine  has  been  produced  specially 


THE    WHARVES    OF   SAN  I  OS. 

adapted  for  the  prevailing  climatic  conditions  and  which  resists 
all  vine  diseases. 

Sao  Paulo  is  especially  fortunate  in  possessing  in  the  water- 
•falls  on  its  rivers  an  abundant  supply  of  power  for  the  generating 
of  electricity  wherewith  to  drive  machinery,  propel  tramcars, 
and  illuminate  houses,  shops,  factories,  and  streets,  and  this 
should  prove  a  most  potent  factor  in  the  growing  development 
of  the  State. 

When  it  is  remembered  that  the  most  productive  part  of 
the  State  is  situated  more  than  a  hundred  miles  from  the  sea 
and,  moreover,  upon  a  plateau  or  tableland  which  is  from  1800 
to  3000  feet  above  sea- level,  some  conception  can  be  formed 
316 


Sao  Paulo 

of  the  difficulties  which  had  to  be  overcome  in  connection  with 
the  transport  of  produce  for  export  from  the  port  of  Santos. 
These  difficulties  have,  however,  been  successfully  overcome  by 
the  Sao  Paulo  Railway,  one  of  the  most  extraordinary  in  the 
world.  It  connects  the  port  of  Santos  with  the  town  of  Jundiahi, 
one  hundred  miles  inland,  and  the  capital  city  Sao  Paulo  lies 
about  midway  between  the  termini.  In  making  the  ascent  of 
the  Serro  do  Mar  such  steep  gradients  are  accomplished  that  a 
climb  of  2600  feet  is  achieved  within  a  distance  of  five  miles. 


THE   DOCKS   OF   SANTOS. 

This  is  effected  by  means  of  wire  ropes  wound  upon  stationary 
engines,  which  pull  the  trains  up  and  down  over  a  distance  of 
six  miles  through  extremely  beautiful  scenery.  Over  this  short 
line  passes  all  the  immense  export  of  coffee  and  other  produce 
which  leaves  the  State  through  its  port  of  Santos.  This  port 
was,  not  longer  than  twenty-five  years  ago,  one  of  the  worst 
in  the  world  with  regard  to  that  terrible  scourge  yellow  fever, 
and  shipowners  dreaded  to  send  their  vessels  thither  to  have 
their  crews  oftentimes  entirely  carried  off  and  the  ships  delayed 
for  months  at  a  time,  unable  to  obtain  hands  to  man  them. 

317 


A  Tour  throitgh  South  America 

But  all  that  has  passed  away,  thanks  largely  to  the  improvements 
carried  out  by  Gaffree  Guinle  and  Co.,  now  the  Santos  Docks 
Company.  Although  low-lying  and  steamy,  Santos  is  to-day 
quite  a  healthy  city  of  some  30,000  inhabitants,  and  the  largest 
coifee  emporium  in  the  world.  Situated  in  a  fine  harbour,  its 
wharf  front  extends  for  nearly  three  miles,  and  is  provided  with 
hydraulic  and  other  machinery  for  manipulating  the  freights  of 
the  ocean  liners  that  he  alongside.  The  city  to>day  has  spread 
itself  across  wide,  flat  land  at  the  foot  of  the  hills,  and  is  well 
provided  in  the  matter  of  water  supply  and  sanitation,  whilst 
its  broad,  straight  streets  are  well  paved  and  electrically  lit. 
It  is  well  furnished,  too,  in  respect  of  schools  and  institutions, 
churches,  consulates,  libraries,  and  clubs,  and  is,  moreover, 
in  complete  telegraphic  communication  with  the  interior  of  the 
State  and  the  rest  of  the  world.  After  a  stay  in  the  State  of 
Sao  Paulo,  sufficiently  prolonged  to  permit  of  an  acquaintance 
with  the  industry  and  enterprise  of  its  citizens,  the  delightfulness 
of  its  climate,  the  abundant  fertility  of  its  soil,  and  the  beauty 
of  its  scenery,  one  sails  from  the  port  of  Santos  with  a  feehng  of 
regret  at  leaving  so  fair  a  clime,  and  with  a  conviction  that  its 
prosperity  will  yet  enhance  and  carry  it  to  a  high  position  amongst 
the  states  of  the  world. 


318 


CHAPTER    XXVII 

A  Soinxe  of  Light  and  Power 

SAO  PAULO  is  rich  in  the  possession  of  an  abnormal  number 
of  waterfalls  and  rapids — in  fact  for  its  size  it  is  in  this 
respect  the  richest  state  in  the  world.  Much  of  the  power 
that  flows  over  these  rapids  has  already  been  utilised  and  does 
an  enormous  amount  of  work,  and  more  is  destined  in  the  future 
to  be  harnessed  to  supply  the  increasing  demands  of  industry. 
Rivers  and  streams  rise  in  the  great  Serro  do  Mar,  and  flow 
over  a  hilly  country,  encountering  so  many  changes  of  level 
that  innumerable  falls  and  rapids  are  the  result.  One  of  these 
rivers,  the  Tiete,  which  rises  in  the  hills  not  far  from  Santos, 
flows  in  a  north-westerly  direction  till  it  joins  the  Parana.  There 
are  many  falls  in  this  river,  sometimes  situated  so  close  together 
that  in  the  course  of  half  a  mile  several  may  be  counted.  At 
one  fall  near  the  little  country  village  of  Parnahyba,  about  twenty- 
two  miles  as  the  crow  flies  from  the  capital,  a  power  station  has 
been  erected,  and  at  it  sufficient  electric  power  is  generated 
to  run  the  extensive  tramway  and  hghting  systems  of  the  whole 
city.  The  plant  belongs  to  the  Sao  Paulo  Light  and  Power  Com- 
pany— one  of  the  largest  business  concerns  in  South  America.  The 
Sorocabana  Railway  runs  along  the  green  banks  of  the  river 
from  Sao  Paulo,  and  passes  a  little  wayside  station  called  Baruery. 
Here  all  the  material  and  supplies  for  the  power  station  are 
unloaded,  and  all  life  that  centres  round  the  station  is  connected 
in  some  way  with  the  Light  and  Power  Company.  Goats,  fowls, 
and  children  run  wild  round  the  trains  when  they  come  to  a 
standstill  in  the  little  station,  although  there  are  but  few  habita- 
tions to  give  indications  of  a  settlement.  A  long  drive  over  un- 
dulating dull  red  roads  that  wind  round  hills  and  alongside 
the  river  brings  the  visitor  to  the  power  station,  which  is  built 

319 


A  Tour  through  South  America 

in  the  dry  bed  of  the  diverted  river.  Upon  a  beautifully  wooded 
hill  stands  the  manager's  house,  overlooking  hills  and  valleys 
of  rare  beauty. 

The  power  house  stands  below  a  reservoir,  which  is  connected 
by  three  enormous  iron  pipes  with  the  dam  2200  feet  higher 
up  the  river.  Two  of  these  pipes  are  twelve  feet  in  diameter,  the 
remaining  one  fifteen  feet,  and  through  them  the  water  rushes 
to  feed  the  reservoir  immediately  above  the  station.  Short, 
thick  pipes  lead  the  water  into  the  seven  large  turbine  generators 
which  together  develop  over  thirty  thousand  horse-power.  The 
current  generated  is  received  at  a  pressure  of  2300  volts  and 
transformed  to  40,000  for  transmission  across  the  twenty-two 
miles  of  line  to  the  city,  where  it  is  again  transformed  at  the 
distributing  station  to  a  voltage  suitable  to  the  requirements 
of  consumers.  All  along  the  river's  banks  the  natives  were  early 
taught  by  the  Jesuits  to  construct  small  water-mills  for  crushing 
their  sugar-cane,  and  although  these  primitive  "  power  stations  " 
still  exist  in  considerable  numbers,  the  owners  of  them  are  amazed 
that  the  power  they  have  used  for  so  long  should  be  able,  by 
passing  through  the  turbines,  to  accomphsh  the  mighty  feat 
of  driving  200  large  cars  over  100  miles  of  streets  at  almost 
any  speed,  as  well  as  turning  the  heavy  machinery  of  factories 
and  mills  many  miles  away.  The  numerous  workshops  for 
repairing  the  machinery  of  the  station  employ  a  small  army 
of  nearly  200  men,  and  the  Brazilians,  Spaniards,  Portuguese, 
Italians,  Germans,  who  form  this  staff  are  housed  in  the  picturesque 
little  village  of  Parnahyba,  which  nestles  on  a  hill-side  about  a 
quarter  of  a  mile  away.  A  typical  country  church  stands  on 
the  sloping  village  square,  and  is  the  only  building  of  any  im- 
portance in  it.  It  is  fairly  well  built,  but  decorated  with  the 
cheap,  garish  ornaments  that  attract  the  untrained  eye.  In 
front  of  the  high  altar  paper  flowers,  in  inferior  china  vases, 
and  cheap  candles  embellish  the  shrines  of  the  velvet-robed 
plaster  saints.  Poor  lithographs,  all  highly  coloured,  mark  the 
stations  of  the  cross.  Confessionals,  open  at  the  top  and  sides, 
barely  conceal  the  priests  who  listen  to  the  recital  of  the  villagers' 
lapses  from  grace.  Outside,  groups  of  orange  trees  grow  round 
the  little  bamboo  dwellings,  while  further  down  the  hill  the  river, 
released  from  its  labour  at  the  power  house,  rushes  past,  making 
a  cheerful  music.  The  trees  harbour  birds  of  myriad  hues,  the 
.^20 


A  Source  of  Light  and  Power 

river  teems  with  fish.  Long  canoes  He  alongside  the  grassy  banks, 
and  children  play  upon  the  shores  happy  and  free  from  care. 
In  the  evenings  and  on  feast  days  the  village  is  full  of  animation  ; 
men  and  women  gather  in  httle  groups  and  gossip,  the  latter 


THE    POWER    STATION. 


smoking  pipes,  which  are  considered  effeminate  by  the  men, 
who  prefer  cigars  and  cigarettes.  Horse  and  cattle  kind  are 
plentiful,  and  the  men  amuse  themselves  with  races  upon  a  small 
scale.  ''Caipiras,"  as  the  small  farmers  are  called,  are  experts  on 
X  321 


A  Toitr  through  South  America 

the  course,  and  have  much  of  the  trickiness  and  low  cunning  that 
long  contact  with  horseflesh  is  beUeved  by  many  to  engender. 

A  racing  story  is  told  in  the  locality  about  an  Englishman  who 
owned  a  horse  he  was  eager  to  match  against  all  comers.  A 
day  and  course  were  fixed  upon,  but,  to  the  surprise  of  outsiders, 
the  race  was  won  by  an  old  "  caipira,"  whose  steed  was  heavily 
backed  by  the  punters  on  the  course.  The  crestfallen  and  astonished 
"  Ingleze  "  did  not  discover  till  long  after  his  defeat  that  the 
winner  was  an  old  race-horse  that  had  been  surreptitiously  ob- 
tained from  Sao  Paulo  for  the  purpose  of  taking  down  his  boastful 
pride.  It  was  the  last  appearance  of  an  English  owner  on  the 
Parnahyba  race-course,  and  the  natives  chuckle  to  this  day 
over  the  way  the  old  "  caipira"  soaked  the  "  Ingleze."  A  few 
days  spent  at  the  manager's  house  on  the  hill  are  full  of  interest, 
and  the  details  of  the  day's  work  in  connection  with  the  station 
provide  ample  topics  of  conversation.  Watchful  attention  has 
to  be  given  night  and  day  to  the  great  installation,  for  lightning 
storms  occur  frequently,  and  may  at  any  moment  cause  a  slight 
disturbance  of  the  transmission,  which,  but  for  the  reserve  steam 
power  station  in  the  city,  would  envelop  the  town  in  darkness, 
bring  the  whole  tramway  service  to  a  standstill,  and  stop  thousands 
of  machines  which  are  dependent  upon  the  station  for  driving 
power.  Telephones  connect  the  distributing  with  the  power 
station,  and  the  latter  with  the  manager's  house,  and  even  his 
bedroom  is  provided  with  an  alarum  which  can  rouse  him  at 
any  moment  from  his  slumber.  The  Light  and  Power  Company 
of  Sao  Paulo  have  acquired  many  concessions  along  the  Tiete,  and 
other  rivers  and  sites  for  future  stations  have  already  been 
fixed  upon — two  at  Pirapora,  and  one,  where  construction  has 
been  going  on  for  some  time,  at  Sorocaba;  about  three  miles 
distant  from  Parnahyba,  Surveyors  and  engineers  are  at  work 
planning  another  station  at  Pau  d'Alho,  so  that  the  rapid  de- 
velopments which  are  taking  place  in  the  State  will  not  catch 
this  enterprising  company  napping.  At  Pirapora,  not  far  from 
the  village,  there  is  a  Roman  Catholic  convent  where  a  dozen 
priests  under  the  direction  of  a  bishop  are  housed.  The  building 
itself  is  new,  but  the  site  was  occupied  by  one  of  the  earhest  Jesuit 
mission  stations  in  the  State.  The  church,  Bern  Jesus  de  Pirapora, 
in  the  village  of  about  1500  inhabitants,  has  an  extensive  fame, 
not  only  in  the  State  of  Sao  Paulo,  but  in  others  lying  at  a  great 

322 


A  Source  of  Light  and  Power 

distance,  for  it  has  a  reputation  for  miraculous  cures.  It  is  the 
Lourdes  of  Brazil.  The  great  annual  pilgrimage  to  this  shrine 
attracts  thousands  of  afflicted  persons,  lame,  halt,  deformed, 
and  blind,  who  walk  from  great  distances,  enduring  many  hard- 
ships and  suffering  privations  with  astonishing  fortitude.  Many 
die  on  the  way,  but  the  thousands  of  photographs  preserved  in 
the  church  are  evidence  of  the  numbers  who  have  visited  the  spot, 
and  these  pictures  of  the  cured,  with  their  crutches  and  bandages, 
serve  to  advertise  the  virtues  of  the  shrine.  A  legend  exists  in 
Pirapora  to  the  effect  that  Christ  rose  from  out  the  river  some 
years  ago,  and  the  authority,  of  the  church  supports  and  spreads 
the  myth.  At  the  annual  gathering  of  the  pilgrims,  bishops  and 
priests  from  distant  parishes  are  present  in  great  numbers,  en- 
couraging the  patients  with  advice,  and  administering  healing 
slaps  on-  the  faces  and  bodies  of  the  victims  to  accelerate  the 
cures.  Many  of  the  natives  of  Pirapora  have  never  left  the  pre- 
cincts of  the  little  village,  and  spend  their  lives  in  ignorance  of 
the  ways  of  the  great  city  not  fifty  miles  away.  The  priests  still 
exercise  a  powerful  influence  over  their  lives,  and  girls  and  un- 
married women  are  kept  indoors  and  out  of  the  public  gaze  with 
Oriental  strictness.  A  curious  market  is  held  outside  the  church 
on  Sunday  mornings  and  on  festa  days.  The  priests  hold  an 
auction,  and  horses,  cattle,  goats,  pigs,  chickens,  flour,  rice, 
vegetables,  fruit,  furniture,  and  innumerable  odds  and  ends 
are  offered  for  sale  and  knocked  down  to  the  highest  bidder. 
The  proceeds  of  these  sales  go  into  the  coffers  of  the  church, 
and  as  the  stock  sold  is  the  gift  of  the  people  this  is  their  way  of 
supporting  their  religion.  This  system  is  prevalent  throughout 
the  country,  and  in  many  districts  it  becomes  a  sort  of  ''  fair," 
at  which  all  kinds  of  little  stalls,  covered  with  bunting  and  adorned 
with  flags,  are  set  up  to  provide  refreshment  to  the  holiday  crowd. 
Firework  displays  wind  up  the  day,  and  as  all  the  squibs,  rockets, 
and  roman  candles  are  home-made,  the  uncertainty  of  the  be- 
haviour of  each  separate  piece  gives  an  added  zest  to  the  spec- 
tators. At  the  church  auctions  strange  lots  are  sometimes  offered 
to  the  public ;  mysterious  parcels,  without  any  marks  or  signs  to 
give  indications  of  their  contents,  occasionally  fetch  high  prices, 
and  on  being  opened  disclose  some  ludicrous  object  such  as  a 
baby's  feeding-bottle  or  rattle.  A  bunch  of  wild  flowers,  gathered 
and  given  by  some  village  beauty,  will  generally  cause  excited 

323 


A  Tour  thi'oiigh  South  America 

bidding  by  her  admirers,  who  compete  with  extravagant  bids 
against  one  another,  until  it  is  knocked  down  at  an  absurdly 
high  figure.  There  is  plenty  of  sport  to  be  had  along  the  river's 
bank,  and  hunting  parties  make  good  bags  of  birds,  monkeys, 
carpincha,  and  occasional  deer.  Fishing  is  also  a  popular  and  profit- 
able sport  with  the  natives,  who  are  not  too  partial  to  strenuous 
exertion.  Most  of  the  workers  on  the  sm^U  farms  own  their 
land,  and  the  crops  of  maize,  sugar,  and  rice  provide  a  comfortable 
and  easily  obtained  liveHhood.  From  the  sugar  juice  a  highly 
intoxicating  hquor  called  "  pinga  "  is  distilled,  and  sold  in  kegs 
to  the  small  stores,  who  retail  it  to  the  public  at  about  20  reis 
a  glass  (less  than  a  farthing  English  money),  a  price  that  brings 
it  within  the  reach  of  all,  and  contributes  largely  to  its  popularity. 
This  fiery  brand  is  responsible  for  much  of  the  crime  that  takes 
place  in  the  country.  A  tragedy  attributable  to  pinga  occurred 
some  little  time  back  at  Parnahyba,  which  for  about  a  fortnight 
was  full  of  speculation  as  to  the  cause.  One  of  the  great  gates 
that  guard  the  entrance  to  the  water  conduits  leading  from 
the  upper  dam  to  the  reservoir  had  become  jammed,  and  a  diver 
was  sent  down  to  ascertain  the  cause.  It  was  noticed  that  he 
had  taken  a  peg  or  two  of  pinga  before  he  donned  his  helmet, 
but  little  heed  was  given  at  the  time  to  this  not  unusual  pro- 
ceeding. He  soon  came  up  from  his  first  examination,  and  re- 
ported the  position,  which  necessitated  the  attachment  of  a 
strong  wire  rope  to  the  damaged  door,  in  order  that  it  might 
be  pulled  back  into  its  proper  place.  The  diver  descended  again, 
taking  the  end  of  the  stout  rope  with  him,  and  for  a  long  time 
the  men  at  the  pump  went  on  turning  to  supply  him  with  air. 
After  an  hour  had  gone  by  without  a  sign  of  the  diver  they  grew 
alarmed,  and  pulled  at  the  communication  cord  without  receiving 
any  answering  signal.  Two  more  divers  were  telegraphed  for 
from  Santos,  and  until  they  arrived  the  following  day  the  pump 
was  kept  going,  in  the  hope  that  the  unfortunate  man  was  alive, 
but  perhaps  entangled  with  some  obstruction  which  pre- 
vented him  from  coming  to  the  surface  or  from  replying  to  their 
repeated  signals.  All  that  the  newly  arrived  divers  could  discover, 
when  they  descended,  however,  was  that  the  air  supply  pipe  to 
the  missing  man  led  over  the  jammed  gates  into  the  great  pipe, 
and  that  it  was  divided  ;  the  victim  must  be  somewhere  in  the 
long  2000  feet  tube.  Search  was  made  in  the  reservoir  above  the 

324 


A  Source  of  Light  and  Power 

power  station,  but  no  sign  of  the  missing  man  could  be  discovered. 
The  excitement  in  the  village  grew  to  fever  pitch,  and  spread  to 
the  inhabitants  along  the  river's  bank.  Endless  suggestions 
and  theories  were  forthcoming  as  to  what  had  happened  and  the 
means  to  be  taken  to  clear  up  the  mystery,  which  puzzled  the 


THE    FALLS   OF    FARNAHYBA. 


wisest  and  most  expert  opinion.  One  theory  set  up  and  spread 
by  the  subtle-minded  labourers  was  that  the  missing  man  had 
slipped  out  of  his  suit  underwater,  and  had,  under  cover  of  the 
darkness,  made  his  way  to  a  distant  part  of  the  river,  and  there 
he  had  climbed  out  and  escaped,  his  object  being  to  get  com- 
pensation for  his  widow  and  children.   This  theory  spread,  in  spite 

325 


A  Tottr  through  South  America 

of  its  absurdity,  for  the  simple  folk  recalled  the  case  of  a  man  who 
conspired  to  have  his  effigy  bm-nt  in  a  fire  that  took  place  in  another 
part  of  the  country,  and  whose  supposed  widow  got  insurance 
money,  which  the  supposed  victim  and  his  fellow-conspirators 
shared  among  them.  Other  theories,  no  less  ridiculous,  were 
current,  and  the  superstitions  of  the  natives  were  aroused,  when 
one  of  the  night  watchmen  refused  further  duty  at  the  tragic 
spot,  alleging  that  he  had  seen  the  ghost  of  the  diver  emerge 
from  the  water  and  hover  round  the  spot,  and  it  was  only  when 
the  body  of  the  missing  man  floated  to  the  surface  of  the  reservoir, 
a  fortnight  later,  that  an  end  was  put  to  the  endless  surmises  and 
stupid  conjectures  that  were  the  talk  of  the  whole  neighbour- 
hood. 


326 


CHAPTER    XXVIII 

Coffee 

FROM  an  obscure  origin  the  habit  of  coffee- drinking  has 
grown  to  be  ahuost  universal.  That  the  natural  home 
of  the  plant  itself  is  Abyssinia  or  East  Africa  is  generally  known, 
but  how  its  fruit  came  to  be  used  in  the  making  of  a  beverage 
is  the  subject  of  many  legends.  One  ancient  Mohammedan 
tradition  tells  how  the  superior  of  a  monastery,  observing  that 
goats  eating  the  coffee  berries  became  very  wakeful  and  lively 
at  night,  prepared  a  decoction  of  the  berries,  in  order  to  keep 
his  dervishes  awake  when  the  religious  services  at  the  mosque 
demanded  their  attention  during  the  whole  of  the  night.  He 
proved  the  efhcacy  of  the  beverage,  and  recommended  it  to  his 
co-religionists,  who,  on  discovering  that  it  was  pleasant  as  well 
as  useful,  soon  acquired  the  coffee  habit,  and  frequently  refreshed 
themselves  throughout  the  day  with  the  dark  brown  liquid. 

So  popular  did  coffee-drinking  become  amongst  the  faithful 
that  one  section  endeavoured  to  put  down  the  practice,  which 
they  looked  upon  as  an  evil.  They  alleged  that  it  was  an  intoxicant, 
and  as  such  was  expressly  forbidden  by  the  Koran.  Their  religious 
zeal  or  bigotry  was  not,  however,  so  powerful  as  the  hold  which 
the  coffee  bean  had  acquired  over  the  people,  and  the  custom  of 
coffee-drinking,  now  time-honoured  throughout  the  East,  has 
spread,  not  only  over  the  whole  of  Europe,  but  practically 
throughout  the  world. 

The  first  coffee-house  or  cafe  was  established  in  Constantinople 
early  in  the  sixteenth  century,  and  its  popularity  was  such  as 
to  arouse  the  hostility  of  the  priesthood,  who  saw  in  the  attractions 
of  the  cafe  a  serious  menace  to  the  attendances  at  the  mosque. 
Thus  that  which  according  to  legend  had  originated  as  an  aid  to 
worship,  came  to  be  regarded  as  an  enemy  to  devotion,  and  a 
bitter  feehng  was  aroused  which  persisted  for  many  years. 

327 


A  Tour  through  South  America 

For  a  century  the  habit  was  almost  exclusively  practised  • 
by  the  Orientals,  but  in  the  middle  of  the  seventeenth  century 
it  spread  to  France  and  England.  In  the  year  1652  a  coffee- 
house was  opened  in  London,  in  St.  Michael's  Alley,  Cornhill, 
and  was  the  forerunner  of  many  rival  establishments  that  quickly 
opened  throughout  the  capital. 

These  houses  came  to  be  frequented  more  particularly  by 
the  political  and  literary  circles  of  the  day,  and  in  the  reign  of 
Charles  II  a  royal  proclamation  was  issued  against  coffee-shops, 
alleging  them  to  be  the  rendezvous  of  disaffected  persons  ;  but 
this  was  not  such  an  effective  check  upon  the  spread  of  the  habit 
as  was  the  imposition  of  a  heavy  tax  upon  the  article.  It  is  re- 
markable that  although  coffee,  tea,  and  cocoa  were  all  introduced 
into  Europe  about  the  same  time,  the  preference  for  tea  in  England 
has  been  as  steady  as  the  predilection  for  coffee  in  France. 

Until  the  end  of  the  seventeenth  century  the  chief  source 
of  the  coffee  supply  was  Arabia,  but  in  1690  the  plant  was  intro- 
duced into  Java  by  the  Dutch,  who  also  placed  one  specimen 
in  the  Botanical  Gardens  at  Amsterdam  as  a  curiosity,  from 
which  plant  seeds  were  afterwards  planted  in  Dutch  Guiana. 
Indeed,  from  this  one  plant  at  Amsterdam  the  coffee  plantations 
of  the  New  World  may  be  said  to  have  sprung.  The  islands  of 
the  Caribbean  Sea  were  soon  supplied  with  seeds,  and  plantations 
were  laid  out  in  many  localities,  which  experience  proved  were 
the  most  favourable  for  the  production  of  the  best  crops.  It  is 
uncertain  how  the  coffee  plant  came  to  be  introduced  into  Brazil. 
One  story  is  that  a  runaw^ay  from  Cayenne  took  a  few  seeds  to 
Para  or  Maranhao,  somewhere  about  the  year  1761,  and  that 
some  years  later  two  or-  three  plants  were  conveyed  from  there 
to  the  city  of  Rio  de  Janeiro,  where  they  were  cultivated  in 
a  private  garden,  probably  by  way  of  a  novelty.  Even  at  the 
beginning  of  the  nineteenth  century  the  cultivation  of  coffee 
was  not  looked  upon  by  the  Brazilians  as  deserving  of  any  serious 
attention,  and  they  had  not  much  use  themselves,  except  as 
medicine,  for  the  beverage  which  to-day  is  hardly  ever  out  of 
their  mouths. 

The  State  of  Sao  Paulo  was  the  first  to  give  serious  attention 
to  the  cultivation  of  coffee,  and  as  a  result  has  reaped  the  reward 
of  being  the  most  prosperous  State  in  the  whole  of  Brazil.  The 
interior  of  Sao  Paulo  (which  lies  between  20°  and  25°  S.  latitude) 
328 


Coffee 


possesses  a  rich  and  productive  soil,  with  a  cUmate  whose  tempera- 
ture and  rainfall  are  eminently  suited  for  the  cultivation  of  many 
kinds  of  agricultural  produce,  and  it  was  in  the  Campuias  district 
that  coffee  was  first  planted  and  developed  on  an  extensive 
scale.  From  this  district  the  cultivation  has  spread  all  over 
the  State,  until  Sao  Paulo  is  almost  synonymous  with  the  name 
of  coffee.  The  rapid  development  of  the  industry  has  placed 
Brazil  in   the   forefront   of  coffee-producing  countries,   and  the 


A    FAZE  NBA. 

annual  output  from  its  ports  exceeds  that  of  all  other  ports 
put  together.  To-day  there  are  over  361.572.12  alqueires  of 
land  under  coffee  cultivation  alone,  \\'hilst  the  prosperit}^  of  this 
industry  has  given  an  impetus  to  agriculture  generally,  and  the 
growing  of  sugar,  rice,  maize,  beans,  tobacco,  vine,  and  manioc, 
all  engage  the  attention  of  farmers  in  the  State. 

A  large  number  of  "  fazendas  "  or  farms  are  in  the  hands 
of  Brazilians  themselves,  and  many  more  are  worked  and  owned 
by  persons  of  Italian,  Portuguese,  German,  English,  French,  and 

329 


A  Tour  through  South  Anierica 

Spanish  nationalities.  These  coffee  fazendas  are  all  very  much 
alike,  and  the  traveller  through  the  country  is  quickly  impressed 
by  the  high  state  of  cultivation  that  this  profitable  industry 
has  developed.  No  visitor  to  Sao  Paulo  should  depart  without 
seeing  a  fazenda,  as  the  coffee  plantation  is  called,  and  the 
hospitality  and  kindness  of  the  Paulistas  to  strangers  make  a 
visit  pleasurable  as  well  as  memorable. 

The  estate  of  Senhor  Antonio  Prado,  a  Brazihan  gentleman 
who  has  done  much  for  the  beautifying  of  the  capital,  lies  about 
230  miles  therefrom,  and  the  journey  by  rail  is  through  a  country 
full  of  interest  and  beauty.  The  towns  and  villages  that  lie  along 
the  route  are  partially  hidden  by  the  dense  foliage  of  the  tropical 
vegetation  that  bespeaks  the  richness  of  the  soil.  The  undulating 
hills  through  which  the  railway  winds  offer  a  change  of  view  at 
every  moment  of  the  journey.  The  rich  red  earth  accentuates 
and  intensifies  the  green  of  the  fohage,  whilst  the  stain  of  it  tinges 
everything  it  touches.  The  railway  carriages,  constructed  on 
American  models,  are  full  of  the  fine  red  dust,  and  the  passengers 
have  a  ruddy  hue  when  they  descend  from  a  journey  through 
the  country.  The  whitewash  of  the  buildings  and  cotton  clothes 
of  the  peasants  are  all  more  or  less  tinted  with  the  eternal  red 
of  the  soil.  The  Prado  fazenda,  situated  upon  rising  ground, 
is  a  low,  one-story  building  encircled  with  verandahs.  Brilliant- 
coloured  flowers  grow  in  front  of  it,  luxurious  creepers  entwine 
themselves  around  the  supports  of  its  verandahs,  and  tall  palms 
nod  their  heads  above  its  roofs.  The  floors  of  broad,  hard-wood 
planks  are  red  with  the  stain  of  the  all-pervading  earth. 

The  "  fazendiero  "  lives  well,  and  his  table  groans  under  a 
plentiful  variety  of  meat,  vegetables,  rice,  bread,  and  sweet- 
meats, to  which  visitors  and  friends  from  neighbouring  plantations 
are  welcomed  roimd  the  board.  From  the  verandahs  the  view  is 
extensive,  a  waving  sea  of  green,  except  when  the  bloom  is  on 
the  coffee  plant,  when  the  white  flakes  of  colour  suggest  fallen 
snow,  very  refreshing  to  the  eye  in  the  intense  heat. 

A  ride  through  the  coffee  trees  on  this  estate  could  be  extended 
for  many  miles,  but  the  lanes  and  vistas  are  all  very  much  alike, 
appeahng  most  strongly  to  the  sense  of  distance  and  extent. 

Beyond  the  region  planted  lies  the  wild  forest,  thick  woods 
almost  impenetrable,  save  where  patches  of  land,  full  of  gaunt, 
half-burnt  stumps,  betoken  clearings  in  process  of  being  turned 

330 


Coffee 


into  plantations — a  preparation  that  takes  no  little  time  and 
much  labour. 

The  formation  of  a  plantation  occupies  four  years  before  the 
trees  bear  fruit.   The  trees  are  raised  from  seed  in  the  nurseries, 


A    COFFEE    FAZENDIERO. 


and  the  young  shrubs  planted  out  in  regular  rows  from  eight 
to  nine  feet  apart,  the  work  being  carried  out  by  colonies  of 
settlers  who  are  of  many  nationalities.  These  colonies  are  scattered 
up  and  down  the  estate,  and  are  housed  in  rows  of  neat  dwellings, 
with  tiled  roofs  and  whitew^ ashed  walls.  They  form  tiny  villages, 
each  with  its  own  type  of  inhabitants,  its   own   manners   and 


A  Tour  through  South  America 

customs  according  to  the  nationality  of  the  settlers.  As  a  rule, 
a  family  have  a  certain  number  of  trees  to  look  after,  and  their 
work  of  weeding,  tending,  and  picking  is  confined  to  one  portion 
of  the  estate,  upon  which  there  are  2,300,000  trees,  varying  from 
thirteen  to  thirty- three  years  of  age.  The  work  is  divided  amongst 
eight  colonies,  comprising  360  families,  in  all  about  2800  souls 
— Italian,  Swiss,  Spanish,  Austrian,  Portuguese,  Brazilians, 
and  about  sixty  Japanese.  The  trees  are  planted  in  squares 
of  about  5000  trees,  and  a  man  and  his  wife  can  look  after  about 
4000  trees.  The  picking  of  the  berries  commences  in  the  month  of 
May,  and  goes  on  till  October,  whilst  from  October  to  May  the 
work  of  cleaning  the  grounds  of  weeds  is  in  full  swing.  Harrows, 
drawn  by  mules  and  horses,  are  employed  upon  the  broader 
passages  between  the  trees,  but  for  the  narrower  divisions  the 
hoe  is  used.  The  long  avenues  stretch  out  in  all  directions,  lanes 
of  red  earth  five  and  six  miles  long  in  straight,  unbroken  lines 
from  eight  to  twenty  feet  high  on  either  side.  These  trees  are 
always  green,  and  four  times  in  the  season  beautiful  pure  white 
flowers  burst  forth  to  relieve  the  monotony  of  colour.  The  first 
flowers  appear  in  July,  and  last  for  eight  days,  leaving  behind  a 
small  growing  berry  to  develop  and  ripen.  There  are  three  other 
flowering  periods  until  the  end  of  October,  and  the  fruit  or  berries 
formed  from  the  flowers  are  in  progressive  stages  of  ripening 
during  the 'picking  season.  Thus  there  is  a  continual  flowering 
and  picking  of  the  coffee  during  the  same  months,  and  the  pickers 
have  to  take  care  that  they  only  pull  the  ripened  berries.  This, 
however,  is  not  difficult,  as  the  young  and  newly  formed  berries 
have  a  firmer  attachment  to  the  trees  than  the  older  and  ripened 
fruit.  The  crop  of  berries  plucked  at  the  beginning  of  the  season 
in  May  are  black,  being  the  fruit  of  the  first  flowers  of  the  pre- 
ceding year.  Red  berries  are  the  fruit  of  the  second  flowers, 
and  green  berries  of  the  third.  The  proper  time  for  pulling  is 
when  the  green  berries  of  the  previous  years  are  full.  The  hand 
is  drawn  along  the  branch,  which  is  thus  stripped  of  all  but  the 
young  berries  of  the  ciirjent  year.  Then  the  pulled  berries  are 
taken  in  carts  drawn  by  mules  or  oxen  to  the  "  lavadors  "  or 
washing  tanks. 

There  are  several  kinds  of  coffee  cultivated  upon  this  estate, 
a  practice  quite  common  among  the  fazendieros  of  Sao  Paulo. 
One  variety,  the  '*  Bourbon,"  is  an  early  and  regular  producer, 


Coffee 

and  for  this  reason  is  largely  cultivated,  since  the  fever  of  pro- 
duction seized  the  planters,  in  consequence  of  the  rise  in  the  price 
of  coffee.  This  variety  does  not  grow  very  high  nor  bear  large- 
sized  beans.  Its  hfe  is  shorter  than  many  other  varieties,  it  is 
sensitive  and  dehcate,  its  branches  lacking  in  flexibilit3%  and  it 


COLONISTS     HOUSES    AT    MARTINO   PRADO. 

does  not  yield  very  large  quantities  of  fruit.  But  against  all 
these  disadvantages,  the  planters  set  the  fact  that  it  can  be 
grown  rapidly,  bringing  a  quick  return  to  the  owner. 

The  common  or  native  coffee  tree  has,  however,  most  to  com- 
mend it.  It  is  strong,  hardy,  and  well  acclimatised,  and  has  a 
long  life,  while  its  beans  are  large,  and  sell  for  the  highest  prices 

333 


A  To2i7'  tliroitgh  South  Anierica 

upon  the  market.  Long  experience  has  determined  that  it  is  the 
plant  best  adapted  for  the  cHmate,  and  its  flexible  branches 
render  the  operation  of  gathering  a  simple  one,  ^vhich  does  not 
render  the  tree  liable  to  dai|iage.  Its  only  drawback  is  the 
irregularity  of  its  crop,  which  is  good  and  poor  in  alternating 
j^ears. 

All  the  older  plantations  are  stocked  with  this  variety,  and 
there  is  no  doubt  that,  in  spite  of  other  considerations,  it  is  destined 
to  remain  when  the  "  Bburbon"  variety  shall  have  disappeared. 

The  "  Bomcatu  "  or  "  Amarello  "  is  a  variety  very  similar  to 
the  common  coffee,  but  has  yellow  berries,  whilst  the  ''Murta" 
is  another  variety  which  is  very  little  grown,  having  too  great 
an  abundance  of  foliage  at  the  expense  of  the  fruit. 

At  the  "  terrains  "  the  gathered  coffee  is  sorted  by  an  ingenious 
process. 

The  berries,  black,  red,  and  green  all  mixed  together,  are  put 
into  a  tank  of  water,  and  the  black  berries  being  the  lightest, 
float  to  the  surface,  and  are  run  off  along  a  cemented  channel 
to  a  large  concreted  terrace,  where  they  are  spread  out  to  dry  in 
the  sun. 

The  red  and  green  berries  left  behind  are  floated  down  another 
cemented  channel  to  a  machine  which  detaches  the  outer  skins 
of  the  red  berries,  leaving  the  beans,  which  are  now  separated 
from  the  green  berries,  still  intact,  by  a  process  of  sifting  in 
revolving  perforated  drums.  These  beans  are  now  spread  out  upon 
the  terrain,  as  are  also  the  green  berries,  to  be  sun-dried  in  their 
turn. 

The  time  occupied  in  the  drying  process  depends,  of  course, 
upon  the  sun,  the  black  fruit  generally  drying  in  from  eight  to 
ten  days.  The  beans  of  the  red  fruit,  known  as  washed  coffee, 
take  time  to  colour,  and  after  three  or  four  days  are  banked  up, 
and  covered  from  the  rain,  until  they  assume  the  washed  coffee 
colour.  The  green  berries,  in  their  turn,  take  longer,  generally 
about  twenty  days. 

When  thoroughly  dried,  the  berries  and  beans  ahke  pass  into 
a  series  of  chambers  called  the  Machina  de  Beneficiar  Cafe,  where, 
by  means  of  elaborate  machinery,  the  berries  are  decorticated 
and  the  beans  sorted  in  their  various  sizes.  The  husks  and  also 
the  thin  skins  of  the  beans  which  are  removed  by  winnowing 
are  blown  through  a  long  tube  to  a  heap  outside,  and  preserved 

334 


'       Coffee 

as  manure,  to  be  sprinkled  between  the  trees  and  ploughed  into 
the  ground. 

The  beans,  sorted  into  qualities  of  size  and  shape,  are  placed 
in  sacks  and  sent  by  railway  (which  comes  right  alongside  the 
Machina)  down  to  Santos,  the  greatest  shipping  port  for  this 
product  in  the  whole  of  Brazil. 

The  Martino  Prado  estate  contributes  about  sixty  thousand 
bags  a  year  towards  the  annual  output  of  over  ten  million  bags 
which  are  exported  from  the  State  of  Sao  Paulo. 

As  the  productive  life  of  a  coffee  tree  may  be  estimated  at 
about  forty  years  its  cultivation  is  attended  with  much  profit, 
and  a  law  has  been  enacted  by  the  State  to  prevent  too  many 
estates  being  brought  into  existence.  Planting  to  replace  dead 
or  unfruitful  trees  is  in  no  way  restricted,  the  aim  being  to  keep 
the  production  of  the  commodity  from  getting  out  of  hand 
and  to  prevent  the  world's  markets  being  flooded  with  more 
coffee  than  is  ordinarily  consumed. 

It  was  in  1906-1907  that  the  danger  of  over-prodnction  first 
attracted  the  serious  attention  of  the  "  faziendieros,"  who  became 
alarmed  at  the  prospect  of  a  great  lowering  of  prices.  The  season's 
yield  had  been  a  record  one,  and  threatened  to  cause  a  fall  in 
price  that  meant  ruin  to  many  of  the  planters,  and  a  serious 
crisis  to  the  State  of  Sao  Paulo,  whose  capital  and  resources 
were  largely  bound  up  in  coffee  culture.  The  Government  had, 
in  1900,  placed  an  almost  prohibitive  tax  upon  the  creation  of 
new  plantations  in  order  to  check  production  and  save  the  existing 
faziendieros  from  financial  catastrophe,  but  were  again  faced 
with  a  perplexing  situation,  which  resulted  in  the  scheme  of 
artificially  upholding  the  price  of  coffee.  With  the  assistance 
of  the  neighbouring  States  of  Rio  de  Janeiro  and  Minas-Geraes, 
the  Sao  Paulo  Government  bought  up  the  necessary  number  of 
sacks  to  relieve  the  market,  and  by  preserving  the  balance 
between  supply  and  demand  kept  the  price  at  a  figure  remunera- 
tive to  the  planters.  The  credit  to  purchase  the  overplus  was 
effected  by  the  three  States  already  named,  and  was  guaranteed 
by  an  extra  tax  of  one  shilling  and  eightpence  upon  each  sack  of 
coffee  exported  from  Santos  or  Rio.  By  means  of  loans  from  foreign 
banks  the  Governments  were  able  to  purchase  and  keep  out  of 
the  market  eight  million  sacks  of  coffee  already  stored  in  different 
parts  of  the  world,  and  as  coffee  improves  by  age,  the  surplus 

335 


A  Tour  throitgli  South  Aiucrica 

thus  bought  up  is  being  gradually  disposed  of  at  an  enhanced 
price.  This  operation  has  been  the  subject  of  much  controversy, 
many  economists  looking  upon  it  as  initiating  a  dangerous  policy, 
whilst  others  claim  that  it  has  been  amply  justified  by  the  good 
results  that  have  followed  to  the  State. 

There  can  be  no  doubt  that  had  the  exceptional  yield  of  1906- 
1907  reached  the  market,  a  fall  in  prices,  disastrous  alike  to  the 


THE    PRADO    MANSION    HOUSE,    SAO    PAULO. 

planters  and  to  the  State,  would  have  resulted.  The  smaller 
crops  of  the  succeeding  years  have  favoured  the  release  of  the 
stored  surplus  without  any  lowering  of  prices,  and  the  bold  experi- 
ment has  so  far  been  successful. 

A  succession  of  large  crops,  both  in  Brazil  and  other  producing 
countries  of  the  world,  would  mean  real  disaster  to  Sao  Paulo, 
but  experience  goes  to  show  that  irregular  crops  are  the  general 
rule,  and  that  full  years  are  inevitably  followed  by  lean  ones. 


Coffee 

The  only  developments  that  the  State  of  Sao  Paulo  has  had 
to  watch  carefully  are  the  increasing  outputs  of  newer  plantations 
in  Mexico,  the  West  Indies,  and  the  northern  repubhcs  of  South 
America,  all  of  which  are  gradually  increasing  the  area  under 
coffee  cultivation.  Sao  Paulo  alone  could  produce  all  the  coffee 
necessary  to  meet  the  world's  demand,  were  all  her  available 
land  allowed  to  be  placed  under  cultivation,  so  that  the  policy 
of  restriction  is  almost  forced  upon  her.  The  rapid  development 
of  this  State  is  one  of  the  outstanding  features  of  South  America, 
and  is  all  the  more  remarkable  when  one  considers  the  compara- 
tively short  time  that  has  elapsed  since  its  staple  industry  was 
first  commenced. 


,337 


CHAPTER    XXIX 

The  Forest 

AN  excursion  through  the  unexplored  bush  in  South  America 
l\  is  no  hght  undertaking,  and  after  a  few  hours  employed  in 
making  his  way  through  primeval  forest  the  traveller  obtains 
a  fair  idea  of  some  of  the  terrible  ordeals  which  had  to  be  passed 
through  by  the  early  Spanish  invaders  and  buccaneering  marauders. 
Besides  being  hampered  by  heavy  armour  and  accoutrements, 
they  were  dependent  for  food  on  the  wild  animals  they  killed 
or  the  roots  and  fruits  they  discovered,  unless  by  chance  they 
encountered  natives  from  whom  they  could  obtain  frugal  supplies. 
The  uncertainty  of  obtaining  subsistence,  the  dangers  which 
lay  in  wait  for  them  from  the  poisoned  arrows  of  the  natives, 
and  the  risks  they  ran  of  losing  their  way,  all  added  to  the  perils 
of  their  expeditions.  For  in  most  favourable  circumstances  a 
journey  over  hills  clad  with  the  densest  vegetation,  and  across 
streams  and  rivers  inhabited  by  obnoxious  reptiles,  is  distinctly 
trying.  At  the  invitation  of  a  friend  I  started  out  to  visit  a  camp 
occupied  by  himself  and  his  fellow-surveyors  situated  on  the 
hills  lying  to  the  west  side  of  the  Chagres  River.  I  prepared  for 
this  journey  in  a  costume  which  in  my  ignorance  I  thought 
suitable  for  the  occasion,  including  heavy  boots  and  leggings, 
and  a  complete  change  of  clothing  in  case  of  emergencies.  At 
the  headquarters  in  the  town  from  which  we  started  it  was  poHtely 
pointed  out  to  me  that  I  evidently  did  not  understand  the  sort 
of  country  we  were  to  travel  through,  and  if  the  rig-out  I  had 
assumed  was  the  best  my  wardrobe  could  furnish,  my  companion 
would  endeavour  to  supply  me  with  a  more  suitable  equipment. 
He  produced  a  pair  of  breeches  which  no  self-respecting  tramp 
would  have  rescued  from  a  dust-bin,  the  remainder  of  a  shirt 
upon  which  moths  had  made  many  a  hearty  meal,  a  thick  pair 
of  stockings  that  would  have  gladdened  the  heart  of  an  Arctic 

338 


The  Forest 

explorer,  a  pair  of  boots  such  as  are  affected  by  those  who  go 
down  into  the  bowels  of  the  earth  in  sewers,  and  a  hat  so  thickly 
coated  with  mud  and  clay  that  it  might  easily  have  been  mistaken 
for  a  crude  specimen  of  pottery.  The  fact  that  the  breeches  and 
shirt  had  been  made  originally  for  a  smaller  man  detracted 
somewhat  from  their  comfort,  although  the  figure  presented  when 
arrayed  in  the  garments  would  have  aroused  the  envy  of  a  pro- 
fessional tramp.  When  we  were  well  into  the  forest  the  suitable- 
ness of  this  attire  became  apparent,  and  I  owed  a  debt  of  gratitude 
to  my  considerate  companion  for  having  saved  a  respectable 
portion  of  my  wardrobe  from  utter  destruction.  A  change  of 
clothing  was  tied  up  in  a  piece  of  stout  waterproof  material 
and  consigned  to  the  charge  of  one  of  the  negroes  who  were  to 
accompany  us,  and  so,  armed  with  a  long  pole,  we  started.  The 
party  consisted  of  my  companion  and  myself,  three  negroes, 
and  two  half-bred  Indians,  who  carried  between  them  fresh 
supplies  and  provisions  for  the  camp.  The  first  part  of  the 
way  lay  through  an  old  track,  and  offered  no  difficulty.  After 
traversing  a  distance  of  about  a  mile  we  came  to  a  muddy 
river,  on  the  banks  of  which  stood  a  small  J[ndian  village,  com- 
posed of  rude  huts  and  shacks.  The  human  beings  who  inhabited 
these  patched-up,  nondescript  dwellings  were  about  as  mixed 
in  breed  as  their  houses  in  construction,  and  as  indolent  and  dirty 
as  their  domiciles  were  foul  and  evil-smelHng.  We  were  detained 
for  some  time  while  search  was  being  made  for  the  boatman 
whose  services  were  required  to  paddle  us  to  the  other  side,  and 
as  we  stood  looking  across  the  swiftly  flowing,  muddy  river, 
I  had  an  opportunity  of  becoming  more  closely  acquainted  with 
the  camp-followers  who  accompanied  us.  A  tall,  middle-aged 
negro,  called  Harvey,  who  with  difficulty  was  balancing  a  bundle 
upon  his  head,  made  himself  conspicuous  by  his  never-ceasing 
chatter.  No  threats  from  my  companion  served  to  stop  his  gar- 
rulity, which  was  explained  by  the  fact  that  he  had  not  recovered 
from  the  festivities  of  the  previous  day,  the  anniversary  of  his 
King's  birthday.  Like  a  true  Britisher,  this  Jamaican  had  in- 
dulged in  royal  toasts  until  he  had  almost  assumed  a  regal  de- 
meanour of  independence  ;  and  when  he  was  told  that  he  was 
drunk  he  denied  it  in  so  lofty  a  manner  that  it  only  confirmed 
the  correctness  of  our  diagnosis.  "  Harvey,"  said  my  companion 
sternly,  "  don't  you  know  what  the  Bible  says  will  happen  to 

339 


A  Tour  through  South  America 

men  who  take  too  much  strong  drink?  "  "Don't  kere  what 
the  Bible  say  'bout  strong  drink,  cap'n,  but  I  should  hke  fin' 
out  what  it  say  'bout  dem  dam  Indians  what  ain't  to  be  found 
when  dey're  wanted,  keeping  Enghsh  and  American  gentlemen 
waitin'  about  in  de  burnin'  sun,  'bout  near  as  hot  as  de  hell  fire 
he  sure  to  go  to." 

"  Shut  up,  Harvey,  and  don't  talk  so  much." 

"  What  God  give  me  tongue  for,  eh,  massa,  and  what  have 
I  brains  for  if  not  to  use  ?  "  he  asked  plaintively.  At  last 
the  missing  boatman  put  in  an  appearance,  and  we  gingerly 
entered  the  long  dug-out,  which  was  very  leaky,  and  about 
one-third  full  of  water,  and  pushed  off  for  the  opposite  bank. 
The  Indian,  who  seated  himself  in  either  the  bow  or  stern,  I  fail 
to  remember  which,  both  ends  seeming  so  exactly  ahke,  skilfully 
propelled  the  long,  wobbly  craft  to  the  other  side,  and  we  climbed 
up  the  steep,  muddy  bank,  aided  by  the  long  lianas  which  hung 
down  from  tall  trees  tow^ering  overhead.  We  were  soaking  wet, 
as  it  had  been  necessary  to  sit  down  in  the  canoe  to  prevent 
overbalancing  it  ;  but  after  a  little  experience  of  the  trail  we 
had  now  got  to,  I  realised  that  to  be  wet  through  was  a  normal 
condition  to  be  in  when  travelling  through  the  bush.  The  first 
mile  or  so  we  kept  by  the  bank  of  the  river  along  a  trail  which 
had  been  cleared  by  the  ever  useful  machete.  This  trail  was 
narrow,  and  necessitated  our  walking  in  Indian  file,  and  for 
a  part  of  the  way  I  found  myself  in  front  of  the  loquacious  Harvey, 
w^ho,  slightly  sobered  by  the  recent  exertion  of  chmbing  up  the 
bank  with  his  load,  continued  babbling  about  Biblical  subjects 
with  ludicrous  effect.  His  mind  was  greatly  exercised  in  trying 
to  recollect  what  really  was  the  punishment  to  be  meted  out 
to  rum-drinkers,  and  also  as  to  what  the  sin  could  be  which 
admitted  of  no  possible  forgiveness.  It  was  marvellous  how 
he  managed  to  keep  jabbering  with  his  tongue  while  occupied 
with  balancing  the  great  bundle  on  his  head  and  evading  the 
pitfalls  which  beset  his  feet.  When  at  last  the  trail  led  into  the 
gloomy  forest,  it  was  a  welcome  escape  from  the  heat  and  glare 
of  the  sun,  the  fierce  rays  of  which  had  been  pouring  down  upon 
us  for  over  two  hours.  Charles  Kingsley  says  that  the  first  feehng 
he  had  on  entering  the  primeval  forest  v,as  one  of  helplessness, 
confusion,  awe,  and  all  but  terror.  Most  of  these  feelings  did 
come  over  me  in  the  course  of  the  journey,  but  the  first  emotion 

340 


The  Forest 


was  one  of  thankfulness  for  the  deep  shade.  It  is  difficult  to 
convey  any  idea  of  the  luxuriant  growth  w^e  were  now  amongst. 
Trees  of  all  shapes  and  colours  in  profusion  rose  around  us  with 
a  superabundant  wealth  of  foliage  so  dense  that  it  was  impossible 
to  find  one's  way  without  a  compass  or  a  guide,  and  even  the 
trail  itself  could  only  be  traced  by  experts.  Tall  trees  with  para- 
sitical creepers  inextricably  confused  reaching  upwards  in  long 
curving  lines  bewildered  the  eye.  Fan-shaped  palms,  giant  tree 
ferns  and  sword-like  cactus  that  would  make  a  small  fortune 
for  a  florist  at  home  grew 
all  around.  Strings  of  wire- 
like stems  lay  across  the 
path,  and  it  required  no 
small  skill  and  the  utmost 
watchfulness  to  avoid  being 
tripped  up  at  every  turn, 
and  when  we  stumbled  and 
put  out  our  hands  to  keep 
from  falling  they  met  with 
prickly  stems  that  stabbed 
like  needles.  Creepers  twirled 
around  and  in  and  out, 
crossing  and  recrossing  one 
another,  defying  all  efforts 
to  trace  them  to  their 
source,  bewildering  as  a 
ship's  rigging  in  a  storm 
all  broken  and  loose  and 
entangled  past  hope  of 
straightening  out.  Sedgy 
swamps,  with  long,  sharp 
blades  of  leaves  and  fallen 
trees,     often    blocked    the 

path,  while  the  light  grew  dimmer  and  dimmer  the  further  we 
penetrated  into  the  forest  fastnesses.  At  times  we  thought  we 
must  have  left  the  trail,  so  overgrown  and  dense  it  had  become, 
and  even  the  guides  who  were  supposed  to  know  it  were  often 
puzzled,  and  frequently  the  machete  had  to  be  resorted  to  in 
removing  the  vegetation  that  had  grown  since  the  last  traveller 
had  passed  that  way.    It  is  splendid  exercise  walking  or  pushing 

341 


HARVEY. 


A  Tour  throttgh  South  America 

your  way  through  a  jungle,  for  the  exertion  the  arms  are  called 
upon  to  put  forth  is  nearly  equal  to  that  which  the  legs  have  to 
perform.  Loops  and  festoons  threatened  to  lasso  and  hang  us  at 
times,  and  whilst  our  eyes  were  engaged  in  watching  for  the 
dangers  threatening  us  above  our  feet  would  be  caught  in  some 
vegetable  snare  which  the  genii  of  the  forest  had  spread  for  the 
intruder  man.  Orchids  grew  high  up  out  of  reach,  and  every- 
where exquisite  and  grotesque  forms  presented  themselves. 
Tiny  humming-birds  flitted  past  us,  flashes  of  iridescent  colour, 
and  giant  butterflies  hovered  over  flowers  as  brilhant  as  them- 
selves. Weird  sounds  from  unseen  monkeys,  parrots,  and  toucans, 
high,  piercing  notes  of  birds,  and  the  hum  of  innumerable  insects 
confused  the  ears,  as  did  the  strange  forms  the  eyes.  We  passed 
many  trees  of  enormous  girth,  the  lower  portions  of  their  trunks 
buttressed  hke  Gothic  cathedrals,  and  contrasting  strangely 
with  the  tall,  slender  proportions  of  others,  that  seemed  like  long 
lengths  of  water-pipes  set  on  end,  through  which  a  chimney- 
sweeper's broom  had  been  pushed,  the  brush  protruding  at  the 
top.  Often  we  came  to  streams,  across  which  a  few  thin  trees 
had  been  thrown  to  form  a  primitive  bridge,  and  the  passage 
of  these  with  boots  thick  with  shppery  clay  was  quite  an  acrobatic 
feat,  very  much  like  walking  the  greasy  pole.  Sometimes  long 
poles  were  stuck  into  the  mud  at  the  bottom  of  the  river  to  assist 
the  traveller  across,  but  only  occasionally  did  we  meet  with  this 
luxury,  and  when  the  sticks  we  carried  proved  too  short  to  reach 
the  bottom  we  used  them  as  a  tight-rope  walker  does  his  balancing 
pole.  Once  I  fell,  but  the  water  only  came  up  to  my  waist,  so 
that  I  waded  to  the  opposite  bank  and  climbed  out.  But  the 
wading  was  not  easy,  for  the  bottom  of  the  stream  was  thickly 
padded  with  fallen  leaves,  which  formed  a  pulpy  mass  of  decaying 
vegetation  and  prevented  a  firm  foothold.  We  could  not  help 
admiring  the  way  the  half-sober  Harvey  crossed  these  bridges, 
his  large  feet  turned  out,  his  arms  outstretched  with  pole  in  one 
hand  and  machete  in  the  other,  and  the  huge  bundle  cleverly 
balanced  on  his  head.  His  performance  would  have  evoked 
loud  applause  from  the  critical  audience  of  a  modern  variety 
show,  but  we  refrained  from  applauding  lest  we  should  swell 
his  thick  head.  After  stumbhng,  hot,  damp,  and  perspiring, 
along  the  greasy  track,  stepping  through  muddy  pools  and  morasses 
and  wading  through  streams  for  hours,  we  came  to  a  large  clearing 

342 


The  Forest 

in  the  forest  that  had  been 'made  by  the  surveying  party.  It 
was  the  last  camp  they  had  occupied  before  proceeding  to  that 
which  we  were  on  our  way  to  visit.  We  sat  down  in  the  shelter 
of  one  of  the  huts  and  rested.  This  was  the  first  opportunity 
we  had  had  of  a  seat,  for  in  the  forest  there  are  no  grassy  spots 
or  convenient  bowers  for  the  weary  traveller  to  stretch  himself 
and  rest.  Even  when  a  fallen  tree  appears  to  offer  a  seat,  sharp, 
prickly  thorns  or  venomous  insects  prevent  advantage  being 
taken  of  it.  Looking  round  at  the  now  deserted  camp,  we  were 
much  impressed  by  the  ingenuity  displayed  by  its  builders, 
for  in  the  midst  of  the  dense  forest  a  circle  about  300  feet 
in  diameter  had  been  cleared.  Huge  trees  had  been  felled,  the 
thick  undergrowth  cut  down  and  burned,  and  from  the  smaller 
trees  the  huts  or  houses  of  the  camp  had  been  constructed.  No 
nails  had  been  used,  the  uprights  and  horizontals  of  the  buildings 
being  bound  together  by  long  withes.  The  roofs  were  neatly 
thatched  with  palm  leaves,  and  gave  shelter  from  the  burning 
sun  and  heavy  rains.  Tables,  benches,  and  beds  were  all  con- 
structed out  of  thin  trees  tied  together,  and  supported  on  shorter 
lengths  stuck  into  the  ground.  These  were  erected  inside  the  huts, 
which  were  about  thirty  feet  long  by  six  feet  wide,  and  open 
at  the  ends  and  sides.  A  large  tree  had  been  left  as  it  fell,  dividing 
the  camp  into  two  parts,  that  for  the  native  attendants  being 
much  larger  than  the  one  reserved  for  the  surveyors  who  em- 
ployed them.  My  companion  had  been  away  at  the  time  this 
camp  was  abandoned,  and  was  now  on  his  way  to  rejoin  his 
companions  in  the  new  camp,  about  six  miles  distant  in  the 
forest.  The  men  who  accompanied  us  all  belonged  to  the  new 
camp,  and  had  only  left  it  a  few  days  before  to  fetch  provisions, 
supplies,  newspapers,  periodicals,  and  letters  from  the  nearest 
railway  station.  After  a  short  rest  we  started  off  again  on  a  newer 
and  more  difficult  trail,  and  as  little  or  no  traffic  had  passed 
over  it,  the  utmost  vigilance  was  needed  on  the  part  of  the  guides 
to  detect  the  signs  which  marked  it.  The  bearers  were  further 
laden  with  three  surveying  rods,  which  had  been  left  at  the  old 
camp  for  them  to  bring  along  on  their  return.  As  the  way  be- 
came more  difficult,  frequent  digressions  were  made  into  the 
bush,  with  the  assistance  of  machetes,  and  often  a  halt  was 
called  and  consultations  held  as  to  whether  we  were  on  the  trail 
or  not.    Darkness  was  quickly  faUing,  and  we  realised  that  it 

343 


A  Tour  through  South  A^nerica 

threatened  to  become  a  serious  matter  should  we  fail  to  reach 
the  camp  before  the  light  completely  faded.  Harvey  and  one 
of  the  Indians  lagged  far  behind,  and  the  three  men  who  were  with 
us  displayed  an  anxiety  I  was  quick  to  notice  and  to  share. 
The  trail  was  lost  !  We  plunged  into  the  thick  vegetation,  cutting 
our  way  with  an  energy  born  of  fear,  till  floundering  up  to  the 
waists  in  a  deep  morass,  we  were  forced  to  retrace  our  steps. 
We  now  realised  the  awe  that  the  forest  can  inspire,  for  in  the 
darkness  which  had  suddenly  descended  it  was  impossible  to 
see,  and  the  imagination  conjured  up  snakes  and  odious  things 
in  close  proximity.  To  add  to  the  horror  of  it  all,  my  companion 
pointed  out  that  we  should  have  to  climb  a  tree  and  wait  till 
morning.  My  tired  limbs  ached  in  anticipation  of  the  further 
effort  required  of  them.  My  feet  were  sore  and  heavy,  and  the 
cool  night  air  made  my  flesh  creep  under  damp,  clinging  garments, 
and  I  felt  ready  to  sink  down  and  let  events  take  their  course, 
without  attempting  to  battle  any  more  against  circumstances. 
We  shouted,  in  hopes  that  our  voices  might  reach  the  camp  and 
bring  assistance,  shouted  all  together,  until  our  faces  must  have 
been  as  black  as  the  darkness  that  surrounded  us.  The  negroes 
and  Indians  were  in  dreadful  apprehension,  their  imaginations 
conjuring  up  demons  of  the  wood  and  "  duppies  "  in  every  moving 
branch.  Strange,  uncanny  noises  added  to  the  unpleasantness 
of  the  situation,  and  when  I  ventured  to  quote  to  my  companion, 
"  There  is  a  pleasure  in  the  pathless  wood,"  he  retorted,  "  It 
must  have  retired  for  the  night,  as  we  can't  find  it.  Still,  it's 
very  gratifying  to  know  it  is  around  somewhere."  I  paid  no 
attention,  but  continued,  "  There  is  a  rapture  by  the  lonely 
shore."  He  admitted  that  might  be  true,  for,  as  he  said,  you 
knew  where  you  were.  "  There  is  society  where  none  intrude," 
I  added.  But  by  this  time  my  companion  had  no  proper  appre- 
ciation of  Childe  Harold's  meditations,  and  implored  me  to  help 
him  .in  roaring,  instead  of  wasting  my  breath  on  stuff  like  poetry. 
At  last  we  heard  a  faint  "  Halloo,"  which  came  from  the  opposite 
direction  to  that  which  we  had  been  attempting  to  take,  and 
we  rriade  a  fresh  united  effort  to  raise  a  loud  .yell.  The  inhabitants 
of  the  forest,  monkeys,  parrots,  and  strange,  unknown  animals, 
wondering  doubtless  what  all  the  shouting  was  about,  started 
jabbering,  screaming,  and  growling,  as  if  to  drown  our  cries. 
We  had  been  standing  with  water  reaching  to  our  knees,  over- 

344 


The  Forest 

come  with  an  acute  sense  of  helplessness  and  afraid  to  venture 
in  any  direction.  The  answering  shouts  from  the  camp  grew 
louder,  and  we  knew  that  help  was  at  hand  ;  and  when  at  last 
lights  appeared,  and,  guided  by  our  shouts,  approached  us,  we 
experienced  a  feeling  of  intense  relief.  We  made  our  way  towards 
the  lights,  and  found  they  were  carried  by  a  party  of  men  from 
the  camp,  who  conducted  us  to  the  not  far-distant  trail,  and  after 
about  a  half-hour's  walk  we  arrived  at  the  camp  we  had  been 
seeking.  A  hearty  welcome  from  "  the  boys,"  who  had  grown 
anxious  at  our  non-appearance,  and  a  meal  consisting  of  hot 
coffee,  biscuits,  Boston  beans,  and  jam  was  quickly  set  before 
us  in  one  of  the  huts.  In  the  dim  light  of  the  oil  lamp  we  did 
ample  justice  to  this  simple  fare,  for  we  were  as  hungry  as  we 
were  tired.  At  one  end  of  the  long  hut  six  bunks  had  been  placed, 
and  already  some  of  the  party  had  turned  in  for  the  night,  under 
the  mosquito  bars  with  which  each  was  provided.  It  was  only 
when  I  tried  to  remove  my  soaking  boots  and  raiment  that 
I  reahsed  that  the  bundle  containing  my  dry  clothing  was  in 
charge  of  Harvey,  who  was  far  behind  us  in  the  bush.  Guns 
w^ere  fired  off  to  direct  him  and  his  companion  to  the  camp, 
but  after  waiting  for  a  couple  of  hours  we  gave  up  expecting 
their  arrival  until  morning.  I  was  rigged  out  in  sleeping  clothes 
that  were  fairly  dry,  and  turned  in  under  a  mosquito  bar  tired 
out  in  body,  but  awake  in  mind.  We  talked  together  for  some 
hours,  and  speculated  as  to  how  poor  Harvey  and  the  Indian 
would  be  feeling,  and  how  they  would  spend  the  night.  Doubtless 
Harvey  would  recall  our  conversation  of  the  morning,  and  would 
be  thinking  that  the  retribution  and  punishment  which  we  had 
told  him  overtake  drunkards  had  caught  him  up.  One  thing 
was  quite  certain,  both  he  and  his  companions  would  be  almost 
scared  to  death  by  fear  of  evil  spirits  or  "  duppies,"  which  are 
reported  amongst  the  natives  to  inhabit  the  forest.  All  the  strange 
noises  that  they  hear  are  put  down  as  emanating  from  the 
mysterious  being  who  presides  over  the  spirits  that  they  beheve 
infest  the  gloomy  recesses  of  the  woods.  Confused  notions  prevail 
among  the  Indians  and  negroes,  in  spite  of  their  outward  adherence 
to  the  Christian  faith,  for  they  still  retain  a  strong  though  disguised 
belief  in  the  superstitions  of  their  ancestors. 

Harvey  and  his  comrade  had  been  perforce  left  in  their  distress, 
as  it  would  have  been  impossible  to  persuade  or  force  any  of 

345 


A  ToTtr  throttgh  Sottth  America 

their  companions  to  go  in  search  of  them.  None  of  the  camp, 
Indian  or  negro,  would  venture  after  nightfall  into  the  eerie 
caverns  of  the  bush.  Before  sleep  came  to  me  the  rain  fell  with 
great  violence,  making  a  sound  like  waves  lashing  upon  rocks 
during  a  storm,  and  innumerable  sand-flies  found  their  way 
under  the  mosquito  curtain,  and  settled  down  to  torment  my 
aching  limbs.  The  "pesky"  sand-fly,  small  and  insignificant, 
can  inflict  more  suffering  upon  the  human  race  than  many  another 
insect  fifty  times  its  size.  The  sensation  of  myriads  of  these  small 
flies  hovering  around  my  feet  felt  at  first  as  if  innumerable 
particles  of  gritty  dust  had  got  between  the  sheets,  and  I  paid 
little  heed  to  them  ;  but  after  about  an  hour  of  their  attention 
I  was  fully  convinced  of  my  mistake,  and  realised  that  the  sand- 
flies had  discovered  a  new  feeding-ground. 

Some  years  ago,  when  on  board  a  steamer  which  had  run 
ashore  on  the  Tampico  River,  in  Mexico,  I  had  experiences 
of  what  these  small  pests  were  capable  of  accomplishing.  On 
that  occasion  a  companion  and  myself  had  been  so  severely 
bitten  about  the  ankles,  wrists,  and  face  that  any  casual  observer 
would  have  avoided  contact  with  us  for  fear  of  taking  small- 
pox. Dreading  a  further  experience  of  these  insects,  I  covered 
up  my  face  with  a  handkerchief,  and  mumbled  to  myself  the 
poet's  plea  : 

*'  I  crave  but  this  :  That  from  the  different  kinds 
Of  insects  cursing  night  and  day 
(The  entomologist  claims  that  he  finds 
Five  hundred  thousand  so  they  say), 

"  Thou  wilt  at  once  destroy,  annihilate, 
Permit  no  longer  to  exist — 
Efface,  cut  off,  rub  out,  obliterate 
The  pesky  sandfly  from  the  list  !  " 

At  last  half-stifled  I  fell  into  a  disturbed  slumber,  from  which, 
very  early  in  the  morning,  I  was  awakened  by  the  screams  of 
the  birds,  monkeys,  and  parrots  all  round,  and  on  looking  out 
of  the  hut  the  strange  beauty  of  the  scene  made  me  eager  to 
get  up  and  go  outside  to  take  ample  stock  of  the  camp  and 
surroundings.  The  heavy  morning  mists  hung  all  around,  im- 
parting a  soft,  mysterious  aspect  to  the  forest.  It  was  as  if  an 
elusive  veil  of  finest  silver  gauze  had  been  spread  from  tree  to 
tree  by  hidden  fairy  fingers.  The  smoke  ascending  from  the  camp 
fires  seemed  almost  solid  against  the  pearly  background  of  the 

346 


The  Forest 


woods,  and  so  unreal  did  it  all  appear  that  one  expected  every 
moment  it  would  fade  away,  as  dreams  do.  And  so  it  did,  for 
as  the  sun  rose  higher  the  mists  melted  and  disappeared,  and 
the  strange  outlines  and  varied  forms  of  trees  and  creeping  vines 
stood  plainly  forth.  We  went  down  to  a  stream  that  ran  near 
the  camp  and  bathed  in 
water  that  was  warm  but 
still  refreshing.  On  our 
return  we  found  the  men 
whose  huts  were  about 
forty  yards  away  from  ours 
busy  preparing  and  eating 
their  morning  meal,  sharp- 
ening machetes,  spreading 
out  damp  clothes  to  dry, 
mending  and  patching 
garments  that  seemed  un- 
worthy of  attention,  drying, 
or  trying  to  dry,  great  hob- 
nailed boots  by  placing 
them  over  fires  that  shot  up 
thieatening  flames  around 
them.  One  man  was  at  a 
biscuit  tin  filled  with  water, 
rinsing  and  beating  a  mud- 
stained  shirt,  in  the  vain 
endeavour  to  cleanse  it  from 
the  all-pervading  dirt ;  while 
near  him  another  hacked 
with  a  machete  at  a  pair  of 
heavy  top  boots,  removing 
great  slices  of  half-dried  mud  at  every  blow.  But  all  of  them 
abruptly  ceased  from  their  occupations  when  Harvey  and  his  com- 
rade came  shouting  gleefully  into  the  clearing.  They  were  sorry- 
looking  wrecks,  mud-stained  and  dishevelled,  with  their  clothes 
hanging  about  them  in  tatters.  All  the  camp  crowded  round 
them,  and  I  was  rather  relieved  to  find  that  Harvey  had  not 
abandoned  the  great  bundle  which  contained,  amongst  other 
things,  my  clothes  ;  and  while  he  untied  the  parcel  we  questioned 
him  about  his  experiences  in  the  bush.   He  was  quite  sober  now, 

347 


SEBASTIAN. 


A  Tour  through  South  America 

but  although  he  had  regained  some  of  his  natural  obsequious 
manner,  he  was  inclined  to  be  a  trifle  boastful  after  the  night's 
exploit.  "  What  man  dat  say  dere  be  '  duppies  '  in  the  wood  ?  " 
he  asked  vehemently.  "  Dat  man  he  lie,  for  dere  don't  be  no 
*  duppies,'  no,  not  one  at  all,  in  de  whole  bush.  Dere  don't  be 
nothin'  'cept  them  monkeys,  tigers,  snakes,  and  other  tings." 
"  But  you  were  a  little  frightened,  Harvey,  weren't  you  ?  "  I 
inquired. 

"  No,  massa,  not  a  bit  frightened,  not  a  bit.  Sebastian,  he 
war  kin'  o'  skeered,  so  I  made  him  hght  a  fire  to  keep  away  dem 
tiger  cats,  and  made  him  keep  awake,  to  see  if  any  ob  dem  *  dup- 
pies '  was  about.  But  dere  don't  be  no  '  duppies,'  not  a  ting  in 
de  bush  at  all  to  be  skeered  of." 

In  consideration  for  the  trials  the  two  men  had  passed  through, 
they  were  permitted  to  take  a  day  off  work  and  recover  from 
the  fright  they  had  undoubtedly  received  ;  and,  if  I  am  not 
mistaken,  Harvey  had  suffered  more  alarm  than  his  dull  and 
less  imaginative  companion.  After  this  interlude  the  day's  work 
began  in  real  earnest,  each  surveyor  taking  with  him  an  escort 
of  five  or  six  labourers,  to  cut  their  way  in  different  directions, 
measuring  levels  and  distances,  and  surveying  the  contour  of 
the  country.  The  troches  which  they  cut  into  the  bush  form 
long,  straight  tunnels,  but  the  progress  they  make  is  slow.  Each 
day  the  distance  from  the  camp  cut  in  this  manner  is  increased, 
and  parties  have  a  two  hours'  walk  through  the  troches  before 
they  arrive  at  the  point  they  had  reached  the  previous  day. 
The  levels  and  the  land  surveyed  during  the  morning  are  care- 
fully recorded  and  marked  on  the  large  charts  upon  the  return 
to  camp.  Thus  day  after  day  knowledge  is  gained  of  a  country 
hitherto  untrodden  by  human  footsteps.  The  party  that  I  was 
visiting  had  been  engaged  upon  this  work  for  over  six  months, 
and  one  of  their  number  had  never  once  during  all  that  period 
left  the  bush.  Magazines,  newspapers,  and  letters  arrived  at 
camp  once  a  week,  but  visitors  never  came,  and  mine  was 
the  first  strange  face  he  had  seen  for  half  a  year.  He  was 
a  quiet  cultured,  well-educated  youth,  energetic,  and  in  love 
with  his  work,  well  content  to  be  gaining  an  experience  in  his 
profession  denied  to  those  less  venturous  and  plodding  than 
himself.  On  my  return  journey  from  the  camp  I  was  guided 
by  a  small  Indian  boy,  strong,  fleet  of  foot,  who  although  en- 

348 


The  Forest 

cumbered  with  my  baggage  yet  raced  along  the  trail  with  such 
rapidity  that  I  was  in  danger  of  losing  sight  of  him.  After  a  mile 
or  two  I  wished  to  call  a  halt,  but  was  unsuccessful  in  making 
him  understand  my  wishes,  so  I  was  forced  to  keep  up  with  him 
as  best  I  could,  and  wait  until  we  arrived  at  the  deserted  camp 
before  taking  a  rest.  When  we  arrived  I  sat  again  in  the  shelter 
afforded  by  the  now  abandoned  hut,  and  rested  for  an  hour  or 
more,  marveUing  at  the  wonder  all  around  me.  Confused  masses 
of  shrubs  and  plants  met  my  gaze,  which  would  have  been  greeted 
with  enthusiastic  admiration  if  seen  in  EngHsh  hot-houses. 
Wild  bananas  grew  in  large  clumps,  their  long  leaves  torn  by 
the  wind,  their  stems  covered  with  climbing  ferns.  Bamboos 
sixty  or  seventy  feet  high  swayed  in  the  faintest  breeze  and 
creaked  in  every  joint. 

The  richest  woodland  in  northern  latitudes  is  tame  compared 
with  the  tropical  forest.  During  the  midday  heat  the  leaves 
where  the  sun  beats  on  them  became  lax  and  drooping  and 
languishing  for  the  rain  to  come  and  cheer  them.  While  I  sat 
there  under  the  shade  of  the  rude  cabin  the  heat  and  tension 
became  almost  insupportable,  and  languor  and  sleepiness  fell 
upon  me.  As  the  sun  blazed  down  upon  the  clearing  myriads 
of  humming,  buzzing  insects  filled  the  air.  The  white  -roUing 
clouds  which  passed  overhead  were  quickly  changing  to  a  leaden 
hue,  and  darkness,  intensified  by  contrast  with  the  briUiant 
light  it  superseded,  covered  the  scene.  Lightning  flashed  and 
thunder  rolled,  and  deafened  with  its  noise.  A  mighty  wind 
arose  and  swayed  the  tall  trees  all  around,  the  rustling  of  whose 
million  leaves  added  to  the  roaring  sound  that  made  my  head 
grow  dizzy.  Then  the  rain  came.  Nothing  can  compare  with 
the  storm  that  burst.  Even  the  thickly  padded  roof  of  palm 
leaves  above  my  head  was  not  impervious  to  the  deluge,  and 
very  soon  I  was  wet  with  the  great  splashes  that  came  bursting 
through.  So  violent  was  its  descent,  that  upon  reaching  the  earth 
the  water  rebounded  in  all  directions,  so  that  even  had  the  roof 
proved  water-tight,  sufficient  water  found  entrance  upwards 
to  swamp  the  hut.  The  storm  ceased  as  suddenly  as  it  had  come, 
the  black  clouds  dissipated  and  passed  away,  then  the  serene, 
deep  blue  sky  again  looked  down  upon  the  glistening  landscape. 
Before  leaving  the  clearing  I  strolled  around,  and  one  giant  tree 
of  enormous  girth  attracted  my  attention.    The  buttresses  at 

349 


A  Tour  through  South  America 

its  base  made  by  the  roots  rising  out  of  the  ground  formed  huge 
stalls  that  would  have  accommodated  six  good-sized  ponies. 
Its  age,  not  easily  determined,  must  have  been  great,  and  it 
had  seen  thousands  of  storms  like  the  one  that  had  just  passed 
over  it.  It  was  long  past  its  early  youth  when  Europeans  first 
landed  on  these  shores.  The  ancients  supposed  that  trees  were 
all  immortal,  and  modern  botanists  have  proved  that  many 
are  almost  indestructible,  and  may  have  witnessed  the  struggles 
of  the  earliest  man.  At  last  we  started  off  to  complete  the  journey 
home.  When  we  arrived  at  the  bank  of  the  river  we  w^ere  fortunate 
in  discovering  a  canoe  moored  to  a  branch.  I  felt  a  httle  reluctant 
to  trust  myself  to  the  skill  of  the  mere  boy  who  accompanied  me, 
but  there  was  no  help  for  it,  so  seating  myself  at  one  end  of  the 
narrow  craft  I  awaited  anxiously  our  arrival  on  the  opposite 
bank.  In  spite  of  his  diminutive  proportions,  however,  the  urchin 
was  quite  an  adept  with  the  paddle,  and  accomplished  the  journey 
against  a  swiftly  flowing  stream  in  a  manner  that  showed  he  was 
accustomed  to  the  navigation  of  the  river.  After  we  landed  the 
journey  was  comparatively  easy,  but  I  was  glad  when  we  arrived 
at  the  headquarters  house  from  which  I  had  started.  Finding 
my  way  along  the  railway  track  past  houses  inhabited  by  workers 
on  the  line,  I  arrived  at  the  village  and  railway  station,  whence 
I  got  a  train  that  carried  me  back  to  comparative  civilisation. 


350 


INDEX 


Aborig-ines,  234,  236,  237,  238,  251, 
294 

Ada,  30,  32 

Aconcag-ua,  177 

AlmagTO,  140,  142,  161 

Alonzo  de  Ojeda,  17,  18 

Alpaca,  the,  139 

Amazon,  the,  220,  298 

Antofagasta,  157 

Araucanians,  158,  161,  162,  163 

Architecture  (Peru),  151 

Arequipa^  149,  151 

Argfentina,  167 

Arica,  145 

Armadillo,  the,  183 

Asuncion,  226,  231 

Atahualpa,  128,  141,  142 

Atrato,  river,  72,  79,  80 

Avenida,  Beita-mar,  265,  266 
,,         Central  (Rio),  266 
,,         de  Mayo  (Buenos  Ay  res), 
168 

Ayacusho  (battle  of),  153 


B 


Bahia,  295,  296 

Bahia  Blanca,  170,  171 

Balboa,  57 

Balbao,   Vasco    Nunez   de,    18,    19, 

21,  22,  26,  27,  28,  30,  2>2,  33 
Balmaceda,  Jose,  162,  164 
Barranquilla,  124 
Beira-mar,  Avenida,  265,  266 


Belg-rano,  General,  241 

Bello  Horizonte,  288,  290 

Bird  life  on  the  plains,  195 

Bogota,  117,  125 

Boliche  (native  spirit),  183 

Bolivar,  Simon,  117,  144,  152,  240 

Bolivia,  146,  152,  154,  155 

Botanical  Gardens  (Rio),  276 

Botofogo,  265,  266 

Braganza,  Duke  of,  255 

Branding-  stock,  190 

Brazil,    war    with    Paraguay,    245, 

249,  350 
Brazilians,  255,  257,    259,   268,   269, 

270 
Breaking-in  horses,  188 
Buccaneers,  34-47 
Buenos  Ay  res,  167-170 
Bulwer-Clayton  Treaty,  76 


Cabral,  252 
Caliche  deposits,  165 
Callao,  131,  138 
Camp,  the,  180-196 
Canal  Commission,  62 

„     Projects,  72-96 

»     Zone,  50 
Cape  P>io,  253 
Cartagena,  i8,  40,  119  125 
Cattle  Industry,  198 
Chagres,  41,  45,  46 

river,  55,  56,  86,  91,  338 
Chamber  of  Deputies  (Rio),  271 
Children  of  the.  Sun,  138 


IndeA 


Chili,  145 

Chilian  army  in  Lima,  135 

Chilian  nitre,  164 

Chilians,  the,  157 

Christobal,  50 

Churches  in  Panama,  99- [02 

Coca,  146 

Cocaine,  146 

Cochrane,  Lord  Thomas,  162 

Coelho,  Goncalo,  265 

Coffee,  327-337 

Colombia,  117,  125 

Colon,  48,  50,  52,  53,  63 

Colon  (Argentina),  201-209 

Columbus,  Christopher,  17,  48 

Concordia,  210 

Condor,  the  (of  the  Andes),  175 

Conquest  of  Peru,  142 

Coquimbo,  157 

Conquistadores,  20,  22,  26,  32,  117, 

128,  140-143 
Copacabana  (Rio),  276 
Corcovada,  263 
Cordillera,  the,  175 
Corrientes,  199,  216 
Cortez,  72 
Corumba,  220-222 
Cruces,  42,  43,  45 
Culebra  cutting,  54,  57 

,,         slides  at,  94 
Cullen,  Dr.,  78 
Curious  burial  customs,  105 
Cuyaba,  220 
Cuzco,  138,  140,  T49-151 


D 


Davis,  Admiral  (report  on  Canal),  80 
De  Lesseps,  50,  80-84,  ^6-88 
Deodoro,  Marshal,  261,  279 
Dias,  Fernap,  292 
Discovery  of  gold  in  Brazil,  292 
Drake,  Sir  Francis,  120 
Drysalting  in  Argentine,  204 
Dutch  in  South  America,  255  256 
Dwellings,  primitive,  22 


Early  Adventurers,  17-25 
Ecuador,  127-130 
Estancias,  173,  203 
Excursions  from  Rio,  286 


Fazendas,  329 

Flat  arch  in  Panama,  94,  loi 

Forest,  a  tropical,  338-350 

Formosa,  224 

Francia,  Dr.,  228,  240-243 

French   canal  company,  83,  86,  90, 

Frey  Bentos,  200,  209 
Frigorificos,  186,  200,  205 
Frontin,  Dr.  Paul  de,  274 
Frozen  meat  trade,  204 


G 


Galisteo,  76 

Galvao,  72 

Gatun,  57 

Gauchos,  180,  184-188 

Germans  in  South  America,  142,  156, 

185,  251,  273,  286,  302 
Gisborne,  Lionel,  78 
Gondra,  President  of  Paraguay,  246 
Goyaz,  220 
Grand  Chaco,  222 
Great  Central  Railway,  Brazil,  289, 

294 
Guano  deposits,  138,  166 
Guarani  Indians,  192,  232,  234,  247 
Guayaquil,  127 


H 


Uay-IIerran,  treaty,  93 
Hides,  206 

Horses  (Argentine),  188,  206 
Hospitals  (Canal  Zone),  53,  63 
Huascar,  128,  141 
Humboldt,  166 


Index 


I 

Incas  of  Peru,    128,    134,    138,    139, 

144,  i6i 
Ipanema,  276 

Isthmian  Canal  Commission,  91 
Italians  in  Brazil,  251 
Itamarity  Palace,  272 

J 

Jara,  Albino,  President  of  Parag-uay, 

246 
Jenkins's  ear  (war  of),  120 
Jesuits  in  South  America,  220,  234, 

236,  242,  254,  302,  320 
Joao  IV,  255 
Joao  VI,  257,  276 
Jockey    Club,    Buenos   Ayres,    168, 

170 
Jose  de  Garay,  76 
Journey  across  the  Andes,  176,  177 


Labour  on  the  isthmus,  55,  60,  71 

Lag^e,  Antonio,  278,  282,  283 

Lag-e  Iramos,  295,  298 

Lages  River,  275 

Lake  Titicaca,  151,  156,  157 

Land  of  Nitrates,  157-166 

La  Paz,  149,  156,  222 

La  Plata,  171,  172 

Liebig-   Extract  of  Meat  Co.,    200- 

203,  209 
Leme,  276 

Leopoldina  Railway,  286,  287 
Light  and  Power  Company,  Rio,  275 

>>  ,,  ,,       Sao     Paulo, 

319 
Lima,  131,  132,  134 
Limon  Bay,  51 
Liot,  Captain,  R.N.,  report  on  Canal 

route,  75 
Live  Industry,  a,  197,  207 
Llama,  the  139 
Locusts  in  Paraguay,  243 
Lopez,  Carlos,  244 


Lopez,  Francesco,  229,  244,  245 

Luque,  140 

Lynch,  Madame,  244 


M 

Magdalena,  river,  124 
Manzanilla,  island,  48 
Maranhao,  revolt  of,  255 
Martinique,  women  of,  64-66 
Mat^,  186,  192-194 
Matto  Grosso,  220,  245 
Melg-arejo,  President  of  Bolivia,  155, 

Mendoza,  173-174 

„  wine  of,  213 

Mercedes,  216 

Mihanovitch    Steamship    Company, 

208 
Minas  Geraes,  288,  291 
Miramar,  160 
Missiones,  199 
Misti,  mountain,  151 
Mitre,  General  Bartolome,  197 
MoUendo,  149,  150 
Montevideo,  200,  209 
Moreno,  129 
Morgan,  Henry,  36,  37,  45 


N 


National  Library,  Rio,  267 
Negro  labour,  60 
Nelson,  Horatio,  76 
New  Granada,  117 
Newspaper  offices,  Rio,  267 
Nicarag-ua,  canal  scheme,  76,  77,  92 
Nictheroy  (Rio),  265 
Nitrates,  164 
Novo  Friburgo,  288 


O'Higg-ins,  160,  162 

Opera  House  (Rio),  267 

Ouro  Preto,  289 

Ouvidor,  Rua  do  (Rio),  265-268 


353 


Index 


Palace  of  Fine  Arts  (Rio),  267 
Palacete  do  Friburgo  (Rio),  272 
Panama,  17,  2>Z.  40 

cemetery,  105 

churches,  99,  100,  loi 

country  life,  67 

founded,  97 

old,  107 

Plaza,  108 

Railroad,  49 

scandals,  50 

social  functions  in,  113,  116 
Panamanians,  104,  150 
Paraguay,  208,  226,  232,  240,  260 

,,  river,  214,  219,  238,  241 

Parahyba,  river,  275 
Parana,  river,  200,  238,  300 
Parnahyba  Falls,  319 
Paulistas,  254,  293 
Paysandu,  209 
Pearl  Islands,  32 
Pedrarias,  29,  140 
Pedro  I,  259 

Penna,  President  of  Brazil,  273 
Penteado,  Cond^  de,  310 
Peoples  of  Brazil,  249 
Pernambuco,  253,  296,  297 
Peru,  136-147 
Petropolis,  286 
Piragfuas,  124 
Pirapora,  323 
Pizarro,  20,  153,  161,  162 
Plaza  de  Mayo,  Buenos  Ayres,  168 
Politics  in  Colombia,  119 
Poncho,  the,  186 
Portobello,  37,  38 .    *^4, 
Portug-uese,  252,  254 

,,         houses,  300 
Posadas,  214 
Prado,  Antonio,  330 
Puno,  151 


Q 


Quito, 

354 


R 


Railvi^ays  of  Peru,  144 

Resources  of  Peru,  137 

Revolutions  in  Colombia,  119 
,,  in  Ecuador,  130 

,,  in  Parag-uay,  245 

,,  in  Rio,  280-281 

Rhea,  the,  181,  182 

Rio  Branco,  Baron  de,  272 

Rio  de  Janeiro,  254,  328 
>>  ,,         harbour,  263,  265 

River  Plate,  220 

Rocafuerte,  129 

Rogas,  Liberado  M.,  247 

Roosevelt,  Theodore,  59,  95,  103 

Rosario,  170,  171 

Royal  Mail  Steam- Packet  Company 
75»  295,  299 

Rural  Society,  Argentina,  206 


Saavedra,  Angel,  72 

Saladero,  the,  186,  198,  199,  200 

Salto,  210,  213 

San  Lorenzo,  40 

San  Martin,  General,   128,  160,  177, 
178,  212,  217 

San  Miguel,  Gulf  of,  28 

Santa  Cruz  (Rio),  278 

Santa  Maria  de  la  Antigua  del  Darien, 
18 

Sao  Paulo,  254,  262,  267,  299-318 
,,  ,,       Early  history,  302,  328 

,,         ,,       Light  and   Power  Com- 
pany, 319 

Sao  Paulo  Railway,  317 
,,         ,,       Theatre,  309 

Savana,  river,  78 

Selfridge,  Commander,  79 

Serra  do  Mar,  301 

Sharp's  Map,  220 

Shipbuilding  in  Brazil,  283 

Slave  Trade,  34,  251, 

Swiss  colony  in  Brazil,  288 

Sun  worshippers,  139 


IMex 


Tacna,  145 
Tarapaca,  145 
Tehuantepec  route,  76,  80 
Temple  of  the  Sun,  151 
Tiet^,  river,  300,  322 
Tijuca,  276 
Ticlio,  144 

Titicaca,  lake,  151,  156,  157 
Tobago,  59 
Tortuga,  34,  35,  47 
Tumbez,  138,  140 
Trans-Andean  Railway,  178 


U 
Uruguay,  199,  200,  208,  246 

V 


Valparaiso,  157,  158 
Venezuela,  1 17 
Vernon,  Admiral,  121 
Vespucci  Amerigo,  253 
Vianna,  island,  278 
Villetta,  224,  248 
Vina  do  Mar,  160 


W 


Wentworth,  General,  121 
Wheelwright  s  survey  for  Canal,  75 


Yellow  fever,  1 24 

Verba  (mat^),    186,    192,    193,    i94. 

232 
Ypiranga,  306 


r 


Valdivia,  162 


WILLIAM   BRENDON  AND  SON,    LTD., 
PRINTERS,    PLYMOUTH, 


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observations  of  the  simple  and  everyday  things  of  life  in  the  Far  West. 

Everyman's    Eldorado— British    South 
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